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Could this have fried my motherboard?

zshenshu
By zshenshu
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I bought a pre-built pc and it was working fine but the rgb for the fans were not working. So i tried to fix it on my own. Keep in mind i’m not too tech savvy. I ended up plugging a 4 pin female fan connector into a 4pin 12v rgb head on my motherboard board. When i went to turn the pc on after doing so it booted for a split second and then shut off. And now it won’t boot up at all. I’m afraid i fried my motherboard and i’m thinking of replacing it myself so i don’t have to send it back and wait another month or so. Could this mistake really have killed my motherboard? Or could i do something that is a less invasive fix? Any hep is greatly appreciated.

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34 minutes ago, zshenshu said:

I bought a pre-built pc and it was working fine but the rgb for the fans were not working. So i tried to fix it on my own. Keep in mind i’m not too tech savvy. I ended up plugging a 4 pin female fan connector into a 4pin 12v rgb head on my motherboard board. When i went to turn the pc on after doing so it booted for a split second and then shut off. And now it won’t boot up at all. I’m afraid i fried my motherboard and i’m thinking of replacing it myself so i don’t have to send it back and wait another month or so. Could this mistake really have killed my motherboard? Or could i do something that is a less invasive fix? Any hep is greatly appreciated.

It could have, but I would assume the mobo has what are effectively little circuit breakers on all the fan and RGB headers for this reason.

 

You have unplugged the cable, correct? Next I would suggest reset CMOS. If those things don’t work, it is possible the mobo fried, not really sure what else to test. Basically start taking parts off until you have the bare minimum to boot (CPU and 1 RAM stick) and if it doesn’t boot then, after clearing cmos, it may be dead. 

Rig: i7 13700k - - Asus Z790-P Wifi - - RTX 4080 - - 4x16GB 6000MHz - - Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Assorted SATA SSD's for Photo Work - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - Corsair XC8 JTC Edition - - Corsair GPU Full Cover GPU Block - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - LTT Deskpad

 

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12 minutes ago, LIGISTX said:

It could have, but I would assume the mobo has what are effectively little circuit breakers on all the fan and RGB headers for this reason.

 

You have unplugged the cable, correct? Next I would suggest reset CMOS. If those things don’t work, it is possible the mobo fried, not really sure what else to test. Basically start taking parts off until you have the bare minimum to boot (CPU and 1 RAM stick) and if it doesn’t boot then, after clearing cmos, it may be dead. 

What is the CMOS and where would i find that? I have a Gigabyte z590 ud Mobo.

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1 minute ago, zshenshu said:

What is the CMOS and where would i find that? I have a Gigabyte z590 ud Mobo.

 

The CMOS is a tiny amount of storage that is used to retain the BIOS settings. Resetting it in your case requires bridging two pins there for this express purpose on your motherboard, as explained on page 22 of the board's manual. 

 

I'm sure the board is fine though, UD stands for "ultra durable" hahahahahahahahaha

Corps aren't your friends. "Bottleneck calculators" are BS. Only suckers buy based on brand. It's your PC, do what makes you happy.  If your build meets your needs, you don't need anyone else to "rate" it for you. And talking about being part of a "master race" is cringe. Watch this space for further truths people need to hear.

 

Ryzen 7 5800X3D | ASRock X570 PG Velocita | PowerColor Red Devil RX 6900 XT | 4x8GB Crucial Ballistix 3600mt/s CL16

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3 minutes ago, zshenshu said:

What is the CMOS and where would i find that? I have a Gigabyte z590 ud Mobo.

I tried to google it but I’m on my phone, didn’t seem to see any quick examples and the PDF manual for that mobo didn’t want to download.

 

Look in the manual for CMOS or reset bios. It’s a jumper, and it clears the BIOS. It’s like a 3 pin fan header with a 2 pin cover on it. You shift where that 2 pin cover is over to cover the pin that is current exposed, and it will reset the BIOS. Googling it will help, this is a standard thing, just need to figure out where on your board it is located. 

Rig: i7 13700k - - Asus Z790-P Wifi - - RTX 4080 - - 4x16GB 6000MHz - - Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Assorted SATA SSD's for Photo Work - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - Corsair XC8 JTC Edition - - Corsair GPU Full Cover GPU Block - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - LTT Deskpad

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/ Media Server: Proxmox VE host - - 512 NVMe Samsung 980 RAID Z1 for VM's/Proxmox boot - - Xeon e5 2660 V4- - Supermicro X10SRF-i - - 128 GB ECC 2133 - - 10x4 TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - Corsair 750D - - Corsair RM650i - - Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA - - Intel RES2SC240 SAS Expander - - TreuNAS + many other VM’s

 

iPhone 14 Pro - 2018 MacBook Air

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9 minutes ago, Middcore said:

 

The CMOS is a tiny amount of storage that is used to retain the BIOS settings. Resetting it in your case requires bridging two pins there for this express purpose on your motherboard, as explained on page 22 of the board's manual. 

 

I'm sure the board is fine though, UD stands for "ultra durable" hahahahahahahahaha

If you think the board is fine then could it be something else as to why the system isn’t booting? 

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6 minutes ago, zshenshu said:

If you think the board is fine then could it be something else as to why the system isn’t booting? 

 

Follow the steps to clear the CMOS and see what results you get from that before we speculate.

 

I was mocking the meaningless "ultra durable" branding that Gigabyte just slaps on their cheapest boards. 

Corps aren't your friends. "Bottleneck calculators" are BS. Only suckers buy based on brand. It's your PC, do what makes you happy.  If your build meets your needs, you don't need anyone else to "rate" it for you. And talking about being part of a "master race" is cringe. Watch this space for further truths people need to hear.

 

Ryzen 7 5800X3D | ASRock X570 PG Velocita | PowerColor Red Devil RX 6900 XT | 4x8GB Crucial Ballistix 3600mt/s CL16

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9 minutes ago, Middcore said:

 

Follow the steps to clear the CMOS and see what results you get from that before we speculate.

 

I was mocking the meaningless "ultra durable" branding that Gigabyte just slaps on their cheapest boards. 

I tried resetting the CMOS and even removed a ram stick and unplugged my graphics card too and it did not boot 

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