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Looking for a better cooler

Hi there!

 

I'm currently running a Ryzen 5950x on a Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero 570x, using a Corsair H100i elite capellix, inside a Corsair 4000X Mid-Tower case.

The radiator is mounted on the top of the case.

I have 4 additional 120mm fans, 3 in the front and 1 in the back.

 

I built my rig in early 2021 and back then while doing some testing, I was able to get a 4.6Ghz overclock on all cores without it overheating and crashing.

These days, If I were to push all cores to 100% OR attempt to shutdown my computer it would crash with computer complaining the CPU is overheating.

 

Is the Corsair H100i elite capellix just a terrible AIO?

Are there any better options for passive/AIO cooling?

I'm too interested in air coolers because I'm not comfortable with a big hunk of metal hanging off the motherboard.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

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Any idea what a motherboard is made of?  Do some research.

 

That AIO is only a 240mm, so opt for a 360.  Fractal, Thermaltake, etc. many of them out there, they're all very similar as they use the same pump design for the most part.

 

 

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19 minutes ago, Dedayog said:

Any idea what a motherboard is made of?  Do some research.

 

That AIO is only a 240mm, so opt for a 360.  Fractal, Thermaltake, etc. many of them out there, they're all very similar as they use the same pump design for the most part.

 

 

If you wanna oc abit higher maybe a 420 or 480mm aio if those exist or just go full custom water cooling

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Don't overclock; undervolt instead. Zen 3, especially, can do better boosting on its own than you can achieve with an all core OC. You just need to give it the power and thermal headroom to do so.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

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17 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

If you wanna oc abit higher maybe a 420 or 480mm aio if those exist or just go full custom water cooling

The only 420mm AIO that exists is the Artic Liquid Freezer II. I dont believe any 480mm exists. 

 

However, suggestions like this fail to take into account the case being used: the 4000D can only hold up to a 360mm RAD, so suggesting anything larger is ineffective for their situation. 

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On 6/24/2021 at 2:50 PM, Dedayog said:

Any idea what a motherboard is made of?  Do some research.

 

That AIO is only a 240mm, so opt for a 360.  Fractal, Thermaltake, etc. many of them out there, they're all very similar as they use the same pump design for the most part.

 

 

Yes, a motherboard is made of mostly fibreglass and copper. I also cannot install a 360mm radiator on the roof of the case which is where my current one is. While there is space for it on the front, I would not be able to mount it correctly with the tubes going down because my 3090 is too long.

 

On 6/24/2021 at 3:11 PM, Somerandomtechyboi said:

If you wanna oc abit higher maybe a 420 or 480mm aio if those exist or just go full custom water cooling

This case does not have room for a triple 140mm or a quadruple 120mm rad. I mentioned the case in the original post for this reason. Ideally, I would not want to go full custom water cooling as I'd like to keep the build simple so its easier to perform maintenance.

 

On 6/24/2021 at 3:19 PM, Chris Pratt said:

Don't overclock; undervolt instead. Zen 3, especially, can do better boosting on its own than you can achieve with an all core OC. You just need to give it the power and thermal headroom to do so.

Yes I will try going around 1.2 volts instead of the default 1.4 and see how that goes. Thankyou!

 

On 6/24/2021 at 3:30 PM, TVwazhere said:

The only 420mm AIO that exists is the Artic Liquid Freezer II. I dont believe any 480mm exists. 

 

However, suggestions like this fail to take into account the case being used: the 4000D can only hold up to a 360mm RAD, so suggesting anything larger is ineffective for their situation. 

Yes, although If need be, I might opt to go for a 280mm Arctic Freezer II AIO in the roof.

 

It has occurred to me however that the heat the GPU is spitting out might also play a factor in the CPU not being able to be cooled well enough given that some of its heat will pass through the radiator as well.

 

I'm wondering if I should go for something like the Corsair 5000D which allows for a triple radiator in the top and at the side, except the top has fans in a push and pull configuration. 

image.thumb.png.2681cddb874072c2a84ca6527008285a.png

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When you mount AIO's in the top and maybe you have it as exhaust.

 

It can be alot of "C's" to gain by doing frontmount as intake, and fans in push (push/pull can give you 1-2c )

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My 5950x pbo-auto is topping out at 79c with my 5000D case decked out with A12x25 fans & a Noctua DH-15 air cooler

Im seeing 4800-5001mhz max on all cores with hwmonitor/142.11w usage max/1.525v

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

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Don't overlook good fans, I don't have scientific numbers but i swear these noctuas are pushing 2-4x as much air as the stock 5000D case fan did.

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

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5 minutes ago, Daethz said:

My 5950x pbo-auto is topping out at 79c with my 5000D case decked out with A12x25 fans & a Noctua DH-15 air cooler

Im seeing 4800-5001mhz max on all cores with hwmonitor/142.11w usage max/1.525v

1.525V is way too high.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

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2 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

1.525V is way too high.

Seems like it, but thats pbo auto doing that, I'm literally using stock mobo settings for the cpu

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

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Just now, Daethz said:

Seems like it, but thats pbo auto doing that, I'm literally using stock mobo settings for the cpu

Something is not right. What's your PPT, TDC and EDC limits? There's no way it should be able to hit anywhere near 1.525V with stock values for those.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

Something is not right. What's your PPT, TDC and EDC limits? There's no way it should be able to hit anywhere near 1.525V with stock values for those.

according to ryzen master ppt hangs out around 85% "of 142w" tdc 60% edc ~45%

cpu hangs out around 1.42v during a entire cod tdm

re-Edit: says PPT 142w / TDC 95A / EDC 140 A maximums in ryzen master

I wonder if Hwmonitor is off on voltages, ryzen master shows different numbers always

Edited by Daethz

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

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35 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

Something is not right. What's your PPT, TDC and EDC limits? There's no way it should be able to hit anywhere near 1.525V with stock values for those.

I posted my own thread here 

cuz im concerned now lol

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

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14 hours ago, Laeven said:

I'm wondering if I should go for something like the Corsair 5000D which allows for a triple radiator in the top and at the side, except the top has fans in a push and pull configuration. 

image.thumb.png.2681cddb874072c2a84ca6527008285a.png

It's a decent option. The only issue is spending more money, and essentially rebuilding your entire PC (which is why it's best to consider all options other than ordering a new case first; saves time and money)

 

Not everyone (including myself) minds rebuilding entore PC's in new cases, but it's my general rule of thumb. 

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Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

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46 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

It's a decent option. The only issue is spending more money, and essentially rebuilding your entire PC (which is why it's best to consider all options other than ordering a new case first; saves time and money)

 

Not everyone (including myself) minds rebuilding entore PC's in new cases, but it's my general rule of thumb. 

I was actually thinking of just moving everything over from my current case into the 5000D. I would salvage the motherboard and everything on it, along with the case fans (if they're deemed good for airflow) and putting them in the new case along with a new Arctic Freezer II 360mm radiator in a push-pull config.

 

I also don't mind spending a bit of money if it really helps thermals. Given that my tempered glass side panel can get hot enough to burn you when you touch it during 90-100% gpu utilisation for long periods. In my opinion, I don't think the 1 rear 120mm QL fan is good enough to remove all the hot hair, although I may be wrong. Feel free to correct me. If the inside of the computer is getting hot enough to burn me, I'd say the air is not getting moved out of the case quick enough.

28-06-21-856.thumb.png.7b3544b6ba9bf00ebb44ae2f016c9ba9.png

This is my current configuration, I've drawn arrows as to how its configured.

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4 minutes ago, Laeven said:

If the inside of the computer is getting hot enough to burn me, I'd say the air is not getting moved out of the case quick enough.

Ehm that's not always the case. Keep in mind many oof these components are routinely over 40ºC which is enough to start burning most soft tissue. 

 

Do keep in mind your rear QL fan is not the only exhaust, as your CPU cooler acts as exhaust fans as well given how they're arranged. They technically are slightly less effective since they're "fighting" a radiator but not by much. 

"Put as much effort into your question as you'd expect someone to give in an answer"- @Princess Luna

Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

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4 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

Do keep in mind your rear QL fan is not the only exhaust, as your CPU cooler acts as exhaust fans as well given how they're arranged. They technically are slightly less effective since they're "fighting" a radiator but not by much. 

Yeah. My concern is that the AIO is being overwhelmed by the fact that it's a 16 core cpu and the heat spat out by my 3090 is making its way to the radiator, making cpu cooling less effective. So I thought a bigger rad with more static pressure could mitigate this. In an ideal world I'd want the gpu to have its own compartment or have some way to funnel its own heat out of the system aside from exiting through the radiator.

 

Would I just mount the rad vertically in the 5000D on the side like it shows in the promotional material?

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14 minutes ago, Laeven said:

Yeah. My concern is that the AIO is being overwhelmed by the fact that it's a 16 core cpu and the heat spat out by my 3090 is making its way to the radiator, making cpu cooling less effective. So I thought a bigger rad with more static pressure could mitigate this. In an ideal world I'd want the gpu to have its own compartment or have some way to funnel its own heat out of the system aside from exiting through the radiator.

 

Would I just mount the rad vertically in the 5000D on the side like it shows in the promotional material?

Side mounting the RAD as exhaust will simply cut into the front intake's sir, meaning the air comes into the front and most of it is ejected out the side before it even reaches the GPU. A Side intake would supplement air coming in from the front, but that doesn't make too much sense since the reason you probably don't want to Front-mount the RAD is because you'd partially warm some of the intake air. 

 

3090's dump heat out like a steel mill, so there's not much that can be done. Out of curiosity, what are your current temps under load that you're trying to reduce?

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Storage Samsung EVO 250GB, Samsung EVO 1TB, WD Black 3TB, WD Black 5TB    PSU Corsair CX550M    Cooling Cryorig H7 with NF-A12x25

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If it helps, my 5900 can be at full load for days running F@H along with my GPU and my side panel never gets warm. Just using a heatsink and good fans. No need for an AIO unless you are after a certain look.

AMD R9 5900X + Booost | Thermalright Frost Commander 140/2x iPPC 3K
Asus Strix B550-F | 4x8GB G.Skill Trident Z @ 1900 15-15-15-36 2T 1.45v
EVGA GTX 980 Classified @ 1500/1953 | WD SN750 500GB+1TB
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16 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

Side mounting the RAD as exhaust will simply cut into the front intake's sir, meaning the air comes into the front and most of it is ejected out the side before it even reaches the GPU. A Side intake would supplement air coming in from the front, but that doesn't make too much sense since the reason you probably don't want to Front-mount the RAD is because you'd partially warm some of the intake air. 

 

3090's dump heat out like a steel mill, so there's not much that can be done. Out of curiosity, what are your current temps under load that you're trying to reduce?

My bad, I should of explained it better, I meant having an intake radiator mounted on the side. Sure it will heat the air up a tad bit but I also have the additional 3 120mm fans in the front that blow in ambient air. So I'd imagine I get warmish air. The GPU is a ROG Strix RTX3090 OC Edition. while it does as you say dump heat out like steel mill, stress testing it with furmark doesn't cause it to go above 75 degrees under a sustained load. I'd say that's pretty good. Unfortunately this increases my cpu temperature by a good 10 degrees at idle. So the cpu is now sitting at 73 at idle if the GPU is being used at full throttle. If I try to stress my CPU it climbs to 100+ degrees and crashes. It will even do this without the GPU running at full throttle.

 

TLDR: Current temps I want to reduce is CPU as it goes beyond 100 if I stress test it or open a demanding game/application. GPU is fine sitting at 75 degrees under sustained load.

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4 minutes ago, Laeven said:

If I try to stress my CPU it climbs to 100+ degrees and crashes. It will even do this without the GPU running at full throttle.

This is more likely due to the weak cooling in comparison to trying to cool 16 cores. a 240mm Radiator just doesn't have the dissipation capacity for all of that heat. A 360 should at least prevent it from pushing past 100C, but it will likely still hit above 90 depending on your settings.

 

75ºC for the GPU is solid. Adding warmish front radiator air shouldn't heat it up too much more than a few degrees, but with a bigger AIO and a larger case, this would give you options to figure out which configuration is truly best. 

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15 minutes ago, freeagent said:

If it helps, my 5900 can be at full load for days running F@H along with my GPU and my side panel never gets warm. Just using a heatsink and good fans. No need for an AIO unless you are after a certain look.

The reason I prefer an AIO, is the last time I used an air cooler it caused my motherboard to bend and warp. I'm not too fond of a massive hunk of metal handing off the motherboard and cpu socket for fear this will happen again.

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Just now, Laeven said:

The reason I prefer an AIO, is the last time I used an air cooler it caused my motherboard to bend and warp.

Understandable. What board were you using?

 

I only use big heatsinks and have not had that problem. My current one is 1000g with no fans.

AMD R9 5900X + Booost | Thermalright Frost Commander 140/2x iPPC 3K
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10 minutes ago, freeagent said:

Understandable. What board were you using?

 

I only use big heatsinks and have not had that problem. My current one is 1000g with no fans.

Back then it was a Asus Strix Z270-E Mobo with a Be Quiet BK018 Dark Rock 3

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