How to cut acrylic tubing (And more Qs about watercooling)

[MarvintheParrot]

Hi!

 

I am pretty new to custom liquid cooling and I have a few questions about tubing.

 

I want to use the EK-Loop Hard Tube 14mm 0.5m - Acrylic tubing for my build. However, I know that acrylic is much more fragile than some PETG tubing. I know that I can probably use a hacksaw or something like that, but I was wondering if I can use a pipe cutter, like one linked HERE. I was watching a Jayztwocents video, and he cracked acrylic tubing with one, but the rest of the internet seems to be fine with using one.

 

I want to make sure that whatever solution I use won't shatter the tubing. I also wanted to know if 14mm OD tubing or 16mm OD tubing will look better with the EK-Quantum torque fittings. Ive heard that the 16mm one matches the 3/4in threads. And custom liquid cooling is kinda all about the looks, so I would like to have the best possible looking loop.

 

Here are screenshots of my EK-Shop shopping cart, just so I can make sure everything is compatible. Note that I am not planning on buying anything in the next few months.

I am also planning on buying some soft tubing, linked HERE. 

 

I just want to make sure everything is compatible.

 

[GhostRoadieBL]

most pipe cutters like the one you linked are not great for "cutting" but good to get an even score around the tube so you can use the groove to keep the cut straight.

I use a bandsaw with very fine teeth, hacksaw would work too, but a Coping saw is best since the blade width is often thinner and you can tell right away if you are starting to cut at an angle.

You can get a really good coping saw for $8-10 and blades are like 50c each, always swap your blade after 6-8 or so cuts or check the teeth to make sure they are still sharp (that's the most common reason for cracking or shattering since dull teeth bind and dig in instead of cutting)

from the list of parts 45's sometimes look good but you can often get cleaner lines with 90's and extensions instead

 

might want to look at positioning squares https://www.amazon.ca/Positioning-Squares-Picture-Cabinets-Woodworking/dp/B08M1699MS/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=positioning+square&qid=1623784216&s=hi&sr=1-6
these let you line up the outside of the bend to make sure it's actually 90deg and with the different sizes you can start doing more than 1 bend per line like most people do

[For Science!]

I couldn't use my tube cutter for acrylic, just shattered, so a hacksaw of some describption was necessary.

 

16 mm torque fittings, see if you like them or not.

[MarvintheParrot]

4 minutes ago, GhostRoadieBL said:

most pipe cutters like the one you linked are not great for "cutting" but good to get an even score around the tube so you can use the groove to keep the cut straight.

I use a bandsaw with very fine teeth, hacksaw would work too, but a Coping saw is best since the blade width is often thinner and you can tell right away if you are starting to cut at an angle.

You can get a really good coping saw for $8-10 and blades are like 50c each, always swap your blade after 6-8 or so cuts or check the teeth to make sure they are still sharp (that's the most common reason for cracking or shattering since dull teeth bind and dig in instead of cutting)

from the list of parts 45's sometimes look good but you can often get cleaner lines with 90's and extensions instead

 

might want to look at positioning squares https://www.amazon.ca/Positioning-Squares-Picture-Cabinets-Woodworking/dp/B08M1699MS/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=positioning+square&qid=1623784216&s=hi&sr=1-6
these let you line up the outside of the bend to make sure it's actually 90deg and with the different sizes you can start doing more than 1 bend per line like most people do

 

3 minutes ago, For Science! said:

I couldn't use my tube cutter for acrylic, just shattered, so a hacksaw of some describption was necessary.

 

16 mm torque fittings, see if you like them or not.

 

 

Thank you both very much!

 

How's this for a coping saw and extra blades:

Saw -- https://www.amazon.com/Olson-SF63510-Coping-Frame-Delude/dp/B0964W7ZTH?th=1

Blades -- https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Coping-Blades-Coarse-2014500/dp/B000B3AR36/ref=pd_day0fbt_img_2/135-3195168-9655214?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000B3AR36&pd_rd_r=a7222121-774d-4a31-9d9e-77ed510fe419&pd_rd_w=V9iUp&pd_rd_wg=Lou2E&pf_rd_p=4951d1d4-4651-4708-9191-ee0340bb7956&pf_rd_r=D4CWQZDD71RVS1CT1A3S&psc=1&refRID=D4CWQZDD71RVS1CT1A3S

 

Would I still be able to use a reamer for acrylic, such as THIS, to clean up the cuts. Or should I use some sandpaper instead.

 

 

I think that I'm gonna stick with the 14mm fittings. If that's your build, it looks amazing!

 

There are two parts in my build where the 45 fittings are "required", and personally I think that it would look a little cleaner with the 45s in those specific places.

[For Science!]

13 minutes ago, MarvintheParrot said:

 

 

Thank you both very much!

 

How's this for a coping saw and extra blades:

Saw -- https://www.amazon.com/Olson-SF63510-Coping-Frame-Delude/dp/B0964W7ZTH?th=1

Blades -- https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Coping-Blades-Coarse-2014500/dp/B000B3AR36/ref=pd_day0fbt_img_2/135-3195168-9655214?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000B3AR36&pd_rd_r=a7222121-774d-4a31-9d9e-77ed510fe419&pd_rd_w=V9iUp&pd_rd_wg=Lou2E&pf_rd_p=4951d1d4-4651-4708-9191-ee0340bb7956&pf_rd_r=D4CWQZDD71RVS1CT1A3S&psc=1&refRID=D4CWQZDD71RVS1CT1A3S

 

Would I still be able to use a reamer for acrylic, such as THIS, to clean up the cuts. Or should I use some sandpaper instead.

 

 

I think that I'm gonna stick with the 14mm fittings. If that's your build, it looks amazing!

 

There are two parts in my build where the 45 fittings are "required", and personally I think that it would look a little cleaner with the 45s in those specific places.

I use the saw that came with the EKWB bending kit (you'll need the silicone insert too, I guess): https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-d-i-y-kit-10-12mm

Reamers work well for acrylic (better than for PETG) so I didn't see the link, but it should work. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-reamer

[GhostRoadieBL]

1 hour ago, MarvintheParrot said:

How's this for a coping saw and extra blades:

Saw -- https://www.amazon.com/Olson-SF63510-Coping-Frame-Delude/dp/B0964W7ZTH?th=1

Blades -- https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Coping-Blades-Coarse-2014500/dp/B000B3AR36/ref=pd_day0fbt_img_2/135-3195168-9655214?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000B3AR36&pd_rd_r=a7222121-774d-4a31-9d9e-77ed510fe419&pd_rd_w=V9iUp&pd_rd_wg=Lou2E&pf_rd_p=4951d1d4-4651-4708-9191-ee0340bb7956&pf_rd_r=D4CWQZDD71RVS1CT1A3S&psc=1&refRID=D4CWQZDD71RVS1CT1A3S

 

Would I still be able to use a reamer for acrylic, such as THIS, to clean up the cuts. Or should I use some sandpaper instead.

I'd go for "fine" instead of coarse, more teeth to spread the amount of acrylic taken off per tooth while taking the same amount overall off in the same distance

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Coping-Blades-3-pack-2014501/dp/B000B3AR4K/ref=pd_bxgy_3/131-6227343-2273630?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000B3AR4K&pd_rd_r=a336c749-640f-4df7-9070-a7f849f12022&pd_rd_w=4hnZX&pd_rd_wg=QGsYZ&pf_rd_p=fd3ebcd0-c1a2-44cf-aba2-bbf4810b3732&pf_rd_r=8S045AB076D4BPBM6FNC&psc=1&refRID=8S045AB076D4BPBM6FNC

 

reamers are fine, first couple turns should be gentle, lots of people try to grind it in to take off a lot right away but that's when the most burs and uneven surface is on the end so it can crack. I do fingertip only turns for the first 2 turns then press in a bit for the last few. it's really obvious when feeling it smooth out when using it. Sometimes the cuts are good enough and you'll never feel it bite and it just spins smooth, no bumps or grabs with no pressure.