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Shopping for a switch for a home network

BHJohnson

I'm doing parts research to install a network in my house. It was built in 1996, so right now I'm dealing with network over powerline and wireless, which is fine but slow. I'm thinking of doing a 12 or 16 port switch in the master closet which will be connected to 16 or bigger (for easy expansion later) patch panel that will then run to RJ45 plugs in various locations in the house. I have no clue what I'm looking for in a switch, so I have done some research on it and have developed the following guesses:

 

I'll have a router that actually connects to the internet and then connects to a port on the switch, so the switch will be completely on the safe side of the firewall, so I don't need firewall or management functionality (I think). From what I've read I want a non-blocking switch to prevent a latency penalty when all the ports are connected to a device and active. So if I have 16 devices connected to a 16 port switch, I won't notice a major latency penalty. Auto-negotiation seems like one of those features that is either there or assumed to be there on modern switches. I want plug and play functionality and don't want to need to manually configure every device that is added to the network, so I don't need a managed switch, which I assume I can configure to be plug and play but it isn't worth paying extra for it. It's a home network, and I'm not super concerned about the added security.

 

What of my statements is inaccurate or wrong? I'm currently leaning towards https://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4738152&CatId=2786  as it's a decent price and seems to check all my boxes. Is there a feature that I should be looking for that I am not? Is there a 10 Gbps switch that is less than 200$ with a similar feature set and at least 12 ports? I'm doing the whole house in CAT 8 cable for eventual upgrade to 10 Gbps networking, but if I can just buy a 10 Gbps switch now for a reasonable price that works too.

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6 minutes ago, BHJohnson said:

I'm doing parts research to install a network in my house. It was built in 1996, so right now I'm dealing with network over powerline and wireless, which is fine but slow. I'm thinking of doing a 12 or 16 port switch in the master closet which will be connected to 16 or bigger (for easy expansion later) patch panel that will then run to RJ45 plugs in various locations in the house. I have no clue what I'm looking for in a switch, so I have done some research on it and have developed the following guesses:

 

I'll have a router that actually connects to the internet and then connects to a port on the switch, so the switch will be completely on the safe side of the firewall, so I don't need firewall or management functionality (I think). From what I've read I want a non-blocking switch to prevent a latency penalty when all the ports are connected to a device and active. So if I have 16 devices connected to a 16 port switch, I won't notice a major latency penalty. Auto-negotiation seems like one of those features that is either there or assumed to be there on modern switches. I want plug and play functionality and don't want to need to manually configure every device that is added to the network, so I don't need a managed switch, which I assume I can configure to be plug and play but it isn't worth paying extra for it. It's a home network, and I'm not super concerned about the added security.

 

What of my statements is inaccurate or wrong? I'm currently leaning towards https://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4738152&CatId=2786  as it's a decent price and seems to check all my boxes. Is there a feature that I should be looking for that I am not? Is there a 10 Gbps switch that is less than 200$ with a similar feature set and at least 12 ports? I'm doing the whole house in CAT 8 cable for eventual upgrade to 10 Gbps networking, but if I can just buy a 10 Gbps switch now for a reasonable price that works too.

that switch you linked is cheeper here and i have no idea about 10gbe switches I'm looking to                         

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_7_sspa?crid=17OXJ3D2WTY9T&dchild=1&keywords=network+switch&qid=1612034329&sprefix=network%2Caps%2C331&sr=8-7-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVDBGMVE1SVRHVjYwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzkwMDQ0MkQ4RDU2TDlGWllRNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjM2MjcyMjZWMzJSTlJLVlZNJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

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If you want to future-proof your network, use fibre-optics instead. Having said that, it's notably more expensive, so put in some Cat 6a cable (Cat 8 is quite overrated in a home environment) instead.

 

if you've got the space in the designated closet, consider installing a server rack. This allows for future upgrades (by yourself or whomever buys your property later) like a NAS, etc. Server racks come in different sizes and their unit is the U, a standard of 44mm height and 19" wide. Sizes go from 5U to 48U, the equipment itself is often between 1U and 4U, occasionally larger.

 

As for the switch itself, consider buying used Enterprise stuff. I happen to have a pair of Dell Powerconnect 2848 switches, but other (named) brands and types are available. (Cisco, Juniper, Ubiquity & HP are reputable premium brands, next to Dell)

"You don't need eyes to see, you need vision"

 

(Faithless, 'Reverence' from the 1996 Reverence album)

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1 hour ago, Dutch_Master said:

If you want to future-proof your network, use fibre-optics instead. Having said that, it's notably more expensive, so put in some Cat 6a cable (Cat 8 is quite overrated in a home environment) instead.

 

if you've got the space in the designated closet, consider installing a server rack. This allows for future upgrades (by yourself or whomever buys your property later) like a NAS, etc. Server racks come in different sizes and their unit is the U, a standard of 44mm height and 19" wide. Sizes go from 5U to 48U, the equipment itself is often between 1U and 4U, occasionally larger.

 

As for the switch itself, consider buying used Enterprise stuff. I happen to have a pair of Dell Powerconnect 2848 switches, but other (named) brands and types are available. (Cisco, Juniper, Ubiquity & HP are reputable premium brands, next to Dell)

I'm doing CAT 8 because the runs will be long enough that I need to use it to get 10 Gig. The cost is roughly triple for cable compared to 6a, (300$ for 1000 ft vs 100$ for 1000 ft) which is only a couple hundred bucks and that is a price I'm fine with paying for not having to run and terminate 16 or more connections twice. 10 Gig is plenty for a home network, so I'm not sure what I gain by going fiber. Also, I then have to order all the cables premade, and can't do my own lengths and terminations. Maybe on the trunk from the router to the switch, but we don't even have gigabit internet here yet, so that's not going to be useful for at least another 20 years. None of my computers are setup to use fiber, so I'd need converters for all of my machines (5 at present, not counting the switch), compared to comparatively cheap plugs that work without special NICs or adapters, and work with pretty much any computer in existence. Maybe not at 10 Gb (limited by the device's network controller) but it'll be plug and play. I already am planning on building a server rack in said closet, and making a bracket similar to what Craft Computers did for mounting his switch that wasn't a 19" form factor. Probably just 2U, as I am building a desk with 8U rack space for my storage/video capture computer and my daily driver computer, so I don't need to make space for that in my completely unventilated closet that would literally bake any real computer. A switch it can handle, a full blown server with actual computing hardware or even a PoE switch it cannot. Also, literally none of that was what I was asking.

 

I literally just want to know if any of my statements in my second paragraph are wrong, or an answer to a question in my last paragraph.

 

6 hours ago, the gamer that is bad said:

Thanks for the pointer on the lower price, but I avoid Amazon when possible as long as I can find the same or close enough product for a not ridiculous price from a different vendor. I'm totally fine with the 20$ increase to buy it from Monoprice instead.

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57 minutes ago, BHJohnson said:

 

I'm doing CAT 8 because the runs will be long enough that I need to use it to get 10 Gig. The cost is roughly triple for cable compared to 6a, (300$ for 1000 ft vs 100$ for 1000 ft) which is only a couple hundred bucks and that is a price I'm fine with paying for not having to run and terminate 16 or more connections twice. 10 Gig is plenty for a home network, so I'm not sure what I gain by going fiber. Also, I then have to order all the cables premade, and can't do my own lengths and terminations. Maybe on the trunk from the router to the switch, but we don't even have gigabit internet here yet, so that's not going to be useful for at least another 20 years. None of my computers are setup to use fiber, so I'd need converters for all of my machines (5 at present, not counting the switch), compared to comparatively cheap plugs that work without special NICs or adapters, and work with pretty much any computer in existence. Maybe not at 10 Gb (limited by the device's network controller) but it'll be plug and play. I already am planning on building a server rack in said closet, and making a bracket similar to what Craft Computers did for mounting his switch that wasn't a 19" form factor. Probably just 2U, as I am building a desk with 8U rack space for my storage/video capture computer and my daily driver computer, so I don't need to make space for that in my completely unventilated closet that would literally bake any real computer. A switch it can handle, a full blown server with actual computing hardware or even a PoE switch it cannot. Also, literally none of that was what I was asking.

 

I literally just want to know if any of my statements in my second paragraph are wrong, or an answer to a question in my last paragraph.

 

Thanks for the pointer on the lower price, but I avoid Amazon when possible as long as I can find the same or close enough product for a not ridiculous price from a different vendor. I'm totally fine with the 20$ increase to buy it from Monoprice instead.

ah i understand i do the same with eBay 

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I agree with your assumptions and the switch you linked is a good choice.

Depending on the environment you're putting your switch in and your level of fault tolerance, I would consider the GS116NA.  It has a lifetime warranty, 1 business day replacement, and all solid state components (no electrolytic capacitors).... for 2x the price.

 

 

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38 minutes ago, Pyr0monk3y said:

I agree with your assumptions and the switch you linked is a good choice.

Depending on the environment you're putting your switch in and your level of fault tolerance, I would consider the GS116NA.  It has a lifetime warranty, 1 business day replacement, and all solid state components (no electrolytic capacitors).... for 2x the price.

 

 

I like lifetime warranties. And 90$ is still well within my level of price comfort. Thanks for the tip.

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Cat6a is rated for 10Gbps up to 100m, Cat8 is only good for 25Gbps and 40Gbps, it won't allow you to get 10Gbps beyond 100m. The switch you linked is fine but I'd look for maybe a 24 port switch if you see yourself needing more ports down the line.

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It's only a 1600 square foot house, so I won't "need" more than 16 ports. I was actually already planning on buying the 24 port version of the netgear switch, except I have no idea where I'd ever put all those ports. The shop is getting its own switch because I only want to run one cable out there, and that brings me to 14 ports. So I'm probably going to go with a 16 port switch, 24 port patch panel. I can then just patch in different ports, since some of the are going to be in places like "behind the dining room table" and "over the sink" and the odds of all of them getting used at once is low. But it's only 40$ extra for the 24 port one, so maybe I just get the 24 port one. Except there's exactly 0 gain besides not having to switch around patch cables, so maybe not. Idk.

 

As for Cat8 vs Cat6A, yeah you right. I didn't dig enough, and thought Cat6A just had the increased frequency capability but didn't have a longer ranger. 100m is plenty good for my house. Running the network out to the shop is another project, and one I'm not quite ready to start buying parts for.

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