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About BHJohnson

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Location
    United States
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Computers (Team Red, though I swing both ways with GPU's), Powerlifting/Olympic weightlifting, cars (JDM with or without LS swaps), many fantasy/sci fi universes, playing jazz, listening to rock, anything you can make in a slow cooker
  • Biography
    The initials stand for Big Hairy Johnson, because I am big, I am very hairy, and my name is Johnson. Not sure what else you could possibly think that means. I've got a wide array of interests, and I geek out about all of them. My background in education is mostly self taught with half of a mechanical engineering degree, and half of an engineering physics degree, which doesn't add up to a whole degree unfortunately, plus my training as a nuclear power operator, which is seriously not as cool as it sounds.
  • Occupation
    Nuclear operator. It's not that cool.


  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 2600
  • Motherboard
    MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon
  • RAM
    G Skill Trident Z 2x8 GB
  • GPU
    EVGA FTW ACX 3.0 (water cooled, so no ACX)
  • Case
    Thermaltake View 71
  • Storage
    WD Black NVMe M.2 500 GB boot drive, 4 x WD Blue 1 TB 7200 RPM HDD's on a RocketRAID controller (RAID 5)
  • PSU
    Antec HCP-1000W
  • Display(s)
    3 x Asus VS248, 1 x Asus VK248
  • Cooling
    420 mm radiator, EK CPU block, Bykski GPU block, EK D5 pump/reservoir combo
  • Keyboard
    G Skill Ripjaws KM780
  • Mouse
    Roccat Nyth
  • Sound
    Cheap Logitech Speakers and Turtle Beach headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

345 profile views
  1. Why not just build a wooden case to do what you want it to do? A 2U chasis is exactly the height of a 1x4. That also happens to fit 80mm fans perfectly. And will fit most low profile coolers perfectly. Make it about 15" wide (based on a Node 202 size) to do the normal mini ITX/riser/horizontal GPU setup. You'd have to get a bit creative for the optical drive location. Maybe use 40mm pwm fans to feed the GPU area and put it below the fans/GPU? I might try drawing this up in Solidworks later.
  2. If the 3060Ti is in stock, then sure, that's not a bad setup. But you are removing some upgrade headroom and seriously cutting the video editing potential. Also, you won't notice the difference in GPU unless you are gaming at 1440p. You will notice going from 6 to 4 cores in video editing. You'll also notice the budget RAM. You're adding about 10% to your encode times with 3200/CL16 RAM, and that is also assuming your RAM posts at 3200/CL16. 3200 16-18-18-38 is a garbage bin speed/timings that they use to get rid of whatever memory IC's are available. I have a kit of 3200/CL16 that won't post
  3. Oh, 3600 vs 3600X. A 3600 is physically identical to a 3600X, it's just slightly lower binned. You can use a 3600 and easily go into BIOS, type in all the CCX values for base and boost frequencies to match the 3600X, and you will basically have a 3600X. The stock cooler will suffice for that. GTX 1660 or a RTX 2060 or a RX 5600 XT are all good GPU's, but unfortunately are way overpriced right now. They aren't worth the 300-400$ price tag they are currently moving at. I bought my 5700XT in February for that much. RX 580's and GTX 1060's are also somewhat inflated, but not as bad, an
  4. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1XMc86-cv9H9SzQ-zTQqs11mDnInQULtQPfrdUquJgGU/edit?usp=sharing A few notes: I used USD prices and converted to PLN. All of the prices are off Newegg so you should be able to find similar prices, except the GPU, because you are going to have to find one used. Make sure you get the 8GB version of the RX 580 or the 6 GB version of the 1060. The 580 also had a 4GB version, and the 1060 had a 3GB version. Both of those are terrible for video editing, make sure you get the full memory version. The 1060 has a stronger encoder on it, and is
  5. I've been using the same soft tubing, plus or minus a run, for the last two years. There's definitely a bit of discoloration, but not so bad you can notice it with the tempered glass side panel on. This rig is also using EK's tubing and their blue transparent coolant, which I've drained and refilled several times, but I don't honestly know when I last swapped it entirely. I should probably be better about that.
  6. I'm about to leave for the gym, so I'm gonna leave this up and do this when I get back, lest I get sucked into the pit of PC building and lose track of time. But I will get to it.
  7. https://www.thewindowsclub.com/find-windows-product-key Use this to grab your key before you install the new drive, then just reactivate it using the same key. If you already have the key, then you don't need to go into command prompt to find it, it's the one you entered when you installed it, and you should've kept that somewhere.
  8. Google says that's about 1000 USD, so I'm gonna trust that. I wouldn't do any of the most recent stuff, even if you can get ahold of it. A build centered around a Ryzen 5 3600X and a used RX 580 or GTX 1060 will give him a massive boost in performance, and should be able to come in at around 1000$. Do a cheap B550 motherboard and you can put a Zen 3 CPU in later if he needs the added muscle. But RX 580's and GTX 1060's will game easily at 1080p 60 fps. They both have hardware encoding ability to help with his video editing, to make up for the somewhat weaker CPU than would normally
  9. 1) If it's important enough to run 24/7, it's important enough to not use open loop cooling. There's some qualifiers needed to make that technically correct, but for the most part a 24/7 PC should just be air cooled for the reliability. 2) The effect of radiator thickness on water temperature changes a lot with fan choice. I know my Vardar Furious fans respond well to 45mm thick rads in a push or pull configuration. I would go with the PE over the SE, as long as your case supports the extra girth. Also, if your case requires it, you can absolutely go to a 280 mm rad instead of a 36
  10. Ignore all of this if you already own the board, which it seems like you do. The best board for a computer is the one you already own. When you're talking about motherboards, "top tier" refers to power draw, because that is what sets your mobo's VRM requirements. A 5600X is far from top tier on power draw, so pretty much any full sized B450 will run fine stock, much less the B550 boards which all seemed to just spray a MOSFET machine gun at the top left corner of the board and call it a VRM. X570 serves no purpose for 99% of users. A Gigabyte Aorus B550 Elite or Pro wil
  11. DO NOT USE A BIOSTAR MOTHERBOARD. I own one, and it is the biggest piece of garbage I have. And I own 2 FM2+ boards, 2 Excavator APU's, and 2 AM3+ boards with 2 Bulldozer CPU's. Biostar is a terrible product. Hardware, firmware, software, everything about it is terrible. See Buildzoid's video he made playing with one if you want more granularity in this opinion. Just save up for a bit longer and spend the extra 20$. Cheap does not translate to good value.
  12. It might be worth it to go with a single 2TB nVME drive. Games are going to be optimized for use off an nVME drive in the next three to four years, which I'm assuming a 2500$ build is meant to last. If you want to split drives like that (a scratch drive and a storage drive), you could go 500 GB nVME and a 2 TB 2.5", but that won't actually save you much money, won't give you much more space, and shifting things between drives is just tedious. Second on the "now sucks to build new" point. If you really need a PC right now, I recommend you do all the things the other dude said, (mayb
  13. Budget (including currency): Already own all parts, except possibly ~250$ for a 4x8 GB kit of b-die Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: OBS encoding (Input 3440x1440p via capture card, output 2580x1080P to nVME scratch drive and stored on mechanical RAID), Handbrake transcoding Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): TL;DR/BLUF I currently own a ASUS X99 WS/IPMI board and a E-5 2
  14. You don't need to install Command Center at all on an MSI board. You can set all the same curves in the BIOS. You obviously lose the ability to adjust fans and CPU clocks on the fly, but that doesn't really matter on a daily driver. My X370 board had 50% as the minimum fan speed for voltage controlled fans. If that matters to you.
  15. There was a deal for a 300$ 9900K a little while ago. If you can pick it up for that price, it's a solid deal, but a 3900X is still much better for productivity. Kinda depends on if you care more about the jump from 120 to 140 fps or cutting the 10-20% off your render times. Though I use a 3700X for Solidworks, which is insanely single thread bound, and I have no problems at all, so I personally side on the core/thread heavy Ryzen chips over the single thread power of the 9X00/10X00 chips. I was contemplating a 10600K build just for Solidworks designing, but with the 5600X/5800X, t