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Keyboard switch help

GeneralGusher

Hey

 

So i have this keyboard and some of the pins on the switch got bent somehow and I want to change them. I was looking for some switches that are quiet but still have a linear or tactile feel with it. The problem is that I dont know much about switches and saw that there are switches with different numbers of pins. I dont know how many pins I need for my keyboard as my keyboard rn is off brand. I will take any help on this as I am a beginner and no almost nothing about keyboards.

 

this is what i have 

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-FLAGPOWER-Anti-Ghosting-Keyboards/dp/B07VKRGR1H

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You'll have to desolder and solder in new switches- on a cheap board like this it wouldnt be worth it

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8 hours ago, GeneralGusher said:

Hey

 

So i have this keyboard and some of the pins on the switch got bent somehow and I want to change them. I was looking for some switches that are quiet but still have a linear or tactile feel with it. The problem is that I dont know much about switches and saw that there are switches with different numbers of pins. I dont know how many pins I need for my keyboard as my keyboard rn is off brand. I will take any help on this as I am a beginner and no almost nothing about keyboards.

 

this is what i have 

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-FLAGPOWER-Anti-Ghosting-Keyboards/dp/B07VKRGR1H

From the image available on the Amazon listing, it looks like the Kailh Choc.
If you take the keycaps off, does the stem has the Kailh logo like in this pic?spacer.png

If not, the switch is maybe Gateron low profile or knockoffs of the Kailh Choc.
Here is a render of the Gateron Low Profile switch:spacer.png

Big boi caveiat: Im not a native English user, i can totally bottled up the meaning of the words
A kid with a dream
thank you :D 

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8 hours ago, Slottr said:

You'll have to desolder and solder in new switches- on a cheap board like this it wouldnt be worth it

I’ve taken the keys out a couple times and just needed to snap them back in place. So tbh what I would do is once I get the switches I would see if I am able to do the same thing 

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49 minutes ago, ProBottler said:

From the image available on the Amazon listing, it looks like the Kailh Choc.
If you take the keycaps off, does the stem has the Kailh logo like in this pic?spacer.png

If not, the switch is maybe Gateron low profile or knockoffs of the Kailh Choc.
Here is a render of the Gateron Low Profile switch:spacer.png

If I take off the key caps, the switches have the plus sign stem 


like these

 

https://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Blue-Keyswitch-pack-himalayanelixir/dp/B01N2L8RR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=blue+key+switches&qid=1609510206&sr=8-4

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2 minutes ago, GeneralGusher said:

MX LOW PROFILE RED - MX LOW PROFILE - CherryMX
Like these?
Then eihter Cherry MX low profile or its knockoff

Big boi caveiat: Im not a native English user, i can totally bottled up the meaning of the words
A kid with a dream
thank you :D 

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Hey there.

13 hours ago, GeneralGusher said:

So i have this keyboard and some of the pins on the switch got bent somehow and I want to change them.

Erm. Would like to add that bent pins are a simple fix with a pair of needle nose pliers or even tweezers. They're just metal protrusions -- bend them back into a straight piece, and the switch should work perfectly.

 

Example:

Spoiler

GMMK_Update_5.jpg

Bent Metal Pin on Switch

Upper metal pin is bent slightly, bottom pin is A-OK for comparison.

 

GMMK_Update_6.thumb.jpg.b9372be4cd304c6ce89fb5cb8f0a1f71.jpg

Bent Metal Pin + Pliers

Lightly pinchy-pinch the bent metal pin with a pair of pliers or tweezers to straighten them out.

 

GMMK_Update_7.thumb.jpg.1fa54310ea97b737825e013920960edd.jpg

Straightened Metal Pin on Switch

All better now!

For more pronounced bends (less than 45 degrees, or even a full 0 degrees), thinner tweezers will help. Just take care not to snap the metal pin from the switch. Haven't actually encountered this before, but I imagine it could be a possibility on switches that use cheap materials.

 

13 hours ago, GeneralGusher said:

The problem is that I dont know much about switches and saw that there are switches with different numbers of pins. I dont know how many pins I need for my keyboard as my keyboard rn is off brand.

I'm assuming that since you know some switches in your board are bent, the switch is out of the PCB socket and you can see the holes in the PCB into which the switch fits (also assuming you have some soldering experience to remove a soldered switch from the keyboard in the first place). Look for whether there are any small holes next to the large center hole.

 

20210101_092833.jpg20210101_092708.jpg

Left: Plate-Mounted (3-Pin) Socket. Right: PCB-Mounted (5-Pin) Socket.

 

If you have a plate-mounted PCB, I'd recommend getting plate-mounted switches (3-pin). Likewise for PCB-mounted PCBs and PCB-mounted switches (5-pin). Although, do note that: one, you can convert PCB-mounted switches to plate-mounted switches by snipping off the two plastic prongs to either side of the larger plastic nub in the middle, and two, plate-mounted switches can fit in PCB-mounted sockets just fine but may (or may not) be a bit wobbly.

 

In other words, if you buy the "wrong" type of switch for your PCB, you aren't entirely screwed. Just might need a bit of DIY to get things to fit the way you want 'em to. 😁

正直に生きる、一度きりの人生だから

Keeb Weeb LinksCustom Mechanical Keyboards | #KeebWeebClub

'Chew Builds: Hoshī (PC) | Okashī (PC) | K-4398 (Keeb) | Eighty #391 (Keeb) | R2-968 (Keeb) | MGK64 (Keeb)

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6 hours ago, ProBottler said:

My bad
spacer.png

Looks like this pic?

Yeah that looks like it 

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2 hours ago, Eschew said:

Hey there.

Erm. Would like to add that bent pins are a simple fix with a pair of needle nose pliers or even tweezers. They're just metal protrusions -- bend them back into a straight piece, and the switch should work perfectly.

 

Example:

  Reveal hidden contents

GMMK_Update_5.jpg

Bent Metal Pin on Switch

Upper metal pin is bent slightly, bottom pin is A-OK for comparison.

 

GMMK_Update_6.thumb.jpg.b9372be4cd304c6ce89fb5cb8f0a1f71.jpg

Bent Metal Pin + Pliers

Lightly pinchy-pinch the bent metal pin with a pair of pliers or tweezers to straighten them out.

 

GMMK_Update_7.thumb.jpg.1fa54310ea97b737825e013920960edd.jpg

Straightened Metal Pin on Switch

All better now!

For more pronounced bends (less than 45 degrees, or even a full 0 degrees), thinner tweezers will help. Just take care not to snap the metal pin from the switch. Haven't actually encountered this before, but I imagine it could be a possibility on switches that use cheap materials.

 

I'm assuming that since you know some switches in your board are bent, the switch is out of the PCB socket and you can see the holes in the PCB into which the switch fits (also assuming you have some soldering experience to remove a soldered switch from the keyboard in the first place). Look for whether there are any small holes next to the large center hole.

 

20210101_092833.jpg20210101_092708.jpg

Left: Plate-Mounted (3-Pin) Socket. Right: PCB-Mounted (5-Pin) Socket.

 

If you have a plate-mounted PCB, I'd recommend getting plate-mounted switches (3-pin). Likewise for PCB-mounted PCBs and PCB-mounted switches (5-pin). Although, do note that: one, you can convert PCB-mounted switches to plate-mounted switches by snipping off the two plastic prongs to either side of the larger plastic nub in the middle, and two, plate-mounted switches can fit in PCB-mounted sockets just fine but may (or may not) be a bit wobbly.

 

In other words, if you buy the "wrong" type of switch for your PCB, you aren't entirely screwed. Just might need a bit of DIY to get things to fit the way you want 'em to. 😁

I tried bending the pins back but for some of the switches the metal was super weak and they broke off.

 

here are some pictures of the keys and the switch

 

 

31EDDCFE-9038-4DD5-850A-27B3EC242C93.jpeg

DC1AAB4A-62E2-454A-B888-4B238DA2307C.jpeg

17179B0E-48C5-4B9C-828C-3B6905BB08B3.jpeg

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3 minutes ago, GeneralGusher said:

I tried bending the pins back but for some of the switches the metal was super weak and they broke off.

Ah... I'm sorry to hear that. 😅

 

3 minutes ago, GeneralGusher said:

here are some pictures of the keys and the switch

-snippity snip-

Mm, that looks like a plate-mounted socket to me. Many thanks for a clear photo. 👍

 

6 hours ago, GeneralGusher said:

I’ve taken the keys out a couple times and just needed to snap them back in place. So tbh what I would do is once I get the switches I would see if I am able to do the same thing 

So it's a hot-swappable board? Interesting. Amazon listing gave me the impression it wasn't a hot-swappable board. 🤔

 

15 hours ago, GeneralGusher said:

I was looking for some switches that are quiet but still have a linear or tactile feel with it.

Switch Recommendations

Note that tactile mechanical switches are... not my cup o' tea, so take those recommendations with a grain of salt. 😉 Will also be assuming that you're looking for affordable, readily-available switches, and will refrain from throwing in excessively expensive and limited-run switches.

  • Kailh BOX Reds/Blacks (Linear): Affordable plate-mounted switches. Reds have lighter spring weights compared to Blacks. Keystrokes are smooth.
  • Gateron Reds/Yellows/Blacks (Linear): Regular Gaterons are inexpensive and decent. Milky and Ink variants are smoother (so I hear), but are pricier. Myself and some friends can vouch for the Gateron Ink Blacks, especially with a bit o' lube. 👍
  • NovelKeys Creams (Linear): Pricey, but are smooth stock switches and well-liked by many.
  • Durock T1s (Tactile): I hear these are both affordable and alright. Couldn't find detailed commentary on how they actually feel, beyond "they're good" comments.
  • Hako Royal Clears (Tactile): A fine tactile switch with a satisfyingly sharp bump. A bit on the pricey side.

If you need recommendations for online vendors to buy these switches from, LMK where you're buying from (i.e. country).

正直に生きる、一度きりの人生だから

Keeb Weeb LinksCustom Mechanical Keyboards | #KeebWeebClub

'Chew Builds: Hoshī (PC) | Okashī (PC) | K-4398 (Keeb) | Eighty #391 (Keeb) | R2-968 (Keeb) | MGK64 (Keeb)

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3 hours ago, Eschew said:

Ah... I'm sorry to hear that. 😅

 

Mm, that looks like a plate-mounted socket to me. Many thanks for a clear photo. 👍

 

So it's a hot-swappable board? Interesting. Amazon listing gave me the impression it wasn't a hot-swappable board. 🤔

 

Switch Recommendations

Note that tactile mechanical switches are... not my cup o' tea, so take those recommendations with a grain of salt. 😉 Will also be assuming that you're looking for affordable, readily-available switches, and will refrain from throwing in excessively expensive and limited-run switches.

  • Kailh BOX Reds/Blacks (Linear): Affordable plate-mounted switches. Reds have lighter spring weights compared to Blacks. Keystrokes are smooth.
  • Gateron Reds/Yellows/Blacks (Linear): Regular Gaterons are inexpensive and decent. Milky and Ink variants are smoother (so I hear), but are pricier. Myself and some friends can vouch for the Gateron Ink Blacks, especially with a bit o' lube. 👍
  • NovelKeys Creams (Linear): Pricey, but are smooth stock switches and well-liked by many.
  • Durock T1s (Tactile): I hear these are both affordable and alright. Couldn't find detailed commentary on how they actually feel, beyond "they're good" comments.
  • Hako Royal Clears (Tactile): A fine tactile switch with a satisfyingly sharp bump. A bit on the pricey side.

If you need recommendations for online vendors to buy these switches from, LMK where you're buying from (i.e. country).

Thanks soo much! I am in the US. Should I buy them from Amazon or some other website like novelkeys?

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1 hour ago, GeneralGusher said:

Thanks soo much! I am in the US. Should I buy them from Amazon or some other website like novelkeys?

Ah, in this case, Amazon doesn't carry a great variety of mechanical switches nor does it offer the best value of 'em. 😅

NovelKeys is a reputable vendor, however. 👍

Switches in blue are PCB-mounted, switches in green are plate-mounted. For PCB-mounted switches, you'll need to trim off the plastic legs on either side of the large middle nub to use them in your plate-mounted keyboard.

 

For switches available from more than one online vendor, I'd double-check total costs after shipping and/or taxes have been calculated to find the best deal for your location. I can personally vouch for Kono Store, NovelKeys, and Prime Keyboards from the list above. The other online vendors, I've no personal experience with.

正直に生きる、一度きりの人生だから

Keeb Weeb LinksCustom Mechanical Keyboards | #KeebWeebClub

'Chew Builds: Hoshī (PC) | Okashī (PC) | K-4398 (Keeb) | Eighty #391 (Keeb) | R2-968 (Keeb) | MGK64 (Keeb)

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1 hour ago, GeneralGusher said:

Thanks soo much! I am in the US. Should I buy them from Amazon or some other website like novelkeys?

Yes you should.

This Google Docs listed a lot of vendors for mechanical keyboard parts, check them out: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pKQuQ1lbb0feTja8DVIHdSvXyzAJlpfVVqnYLgQ6ZI0/

Big boi caveiat: Im not a native English user, i can totally bottled up the meaning of the words
A kid with a dream
thank you :D 

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1 hour ago, Eschew said:

Ah, in this case, Amazon doesn't carry a great variety of mechanical switches nor does it offer the best value of 'em. 😅

NovelKeys is a reputable vendor, however. 👍

Switches in blue are PCB-mounted, switches in green are plate-mounted. For PCB-mounted switches, you'll need to trim off the plastic legs on either side of the large middle nub to use them in your plate-mounted keyboard.

 

For switches available from more than one online vendor, I'd double-check total costs after shipping and/or taxes have been calculated to find the best deal for your location. I can personally vouch for Kono Store, NovelKeys, and Prime Keyboards from the list above. The other online vendors, I've no personal experience with.

Wow thanks for all the info!

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1 hour ago, Eschew said:

Ah, in this case, Amazon doesn't carry a great variety of mechanical switches nor does it offer the best value of 'em. 😅

NovelKeys is a reputable vendor, however. 👍

Switches in blue are PCB-mounted, switches in green are plate-mounted. For PCB-mounted switches, you'll need to trim off the plastic legs on either side of the large middle nub to use them in your plate-mounted keyboard.

 

For switches available from more than one online vendor, I'd double-check total costs after shipping and/or taxes have been calculated to find the best deal for your location. I can personally vouch for Kono Store, NovelKeys, and Prime Keyboards from the list above. The other online vendors, I've no personal experience with.

I think my keys are actually pcb mounted because from the switches you sent, the pcb mounted  switches looked like they would fit into on my keyboard.

 

one more question I have is that how do I know how many pins I will need?

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19 minutes ago, GeneralGusher said:

I think my keys are actually pcb mounted because from the switches you sent, the pcb mounted  switches looked like they would fit into on my keyboard.

These two photos you sent earlier highly suggests your keyboard only supports plate-mounted switches:

Spoiler
7 hours ago, GeneralGusher said:

DC1AAB4A-62E2-454A-B888-4B238DA2307C.jpeg

17179B0E-48C5-4B9C-828C-3B6905BB08B3.jpeg

I was specifically looking for:

  • PCB-Mount Switch Socket (First Photo): Two holes -- actual holes through the plastic, not screen-printed circles -- next to the larger middle hole, which are nonexistent in the photo.
  • Switch Plastic Pins (Second Photo): Two plastic legs on the back of the switch, which are also nonexistent in the photo.

 

19 minutes ago, GeneralGusher said:

one more question I have is that how do I know how many pins I will need?

10 hours ago, Eschew said:

20210101_092833.jpg20210101_092708.jpg

Left: Plate-Mounted (3-Pin) Socket. Right: PCB-Mounted (5-Pin) Socket.

If you have a plate-mount socket, you'll need plate-mounted (3-pin) switches. If you have a PCB-mount socket, you can use both PCB-mounted (5-pin) and plate-mounted (3-pin) switches.

 

Plate Mounted vs. PCB Mounted Switches – WASD Support

Left: Plate-Mounted Switch (3-Pin). Right: PCB-Mounted Switch (5-Pin).

 

Although, as mentioned before:

10 hours ago, Eschew said:

You can convert PCB-mounted switches to plate-mounted switches by snipping off the two plastic prongs to either side of the larger plastic nub in the middle.

 


 

Edit: A friend helpfully corrected me and pointed out that the board seems to use Outemu hot-swap sockets. Thus, completely disregard my switch recommendations from earlier. Most, if not all, of the switches I recommended will have thicker metal pins that probably will not fit the Outemu socket.

 

If you'd like linear or tactile Outemu switches, you're probably stuck with Outemu Reds (linear), Outemu Browns (tactile), and perhaps Outemu SKYs (tactile). No comments on the quality and typing experience of the Reds and Browns, but the SKYs have been well-received.

Apologies for any confusion I may have caused.

正直に生きる、一度きりの人生だから

Keeb Weeb LinksCustom Mechanical Keyboards | #KeebWeebClub

'Chew Builds: Hoshī (PC) | Okashī (PC) | K-4398 (Keeb) | Eighty #391 (Keeb) | R2-968 (Keeb) | MGK64 (Keeb)

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10 hours ago, Eschew said:

These two photos you sent earlier highly suggests your keyboard only supports plate-mounted switches:

  Reveal hidden contents

 

I was specifically looking for:

  • PCB-Mount Switch Socket (First Photo): Two holes -- actual holes through the plastic, not screen-printed circles -- next to the larger middle hole, which are nonexistent in the photo.
  • Switch Plastic Pins (Second Photo): Two plastic legs on the back of the switch, which are also nonexistent in the photo.

 

If you have a plate-mount socket, you'll need plate-mounted (3-pin) switches. If you have a PCB-mount socket, you can use both PCB-mounted (5-pin) and plate-mounted (3-pin) switches.

 

Plate Mounted vs. PCB Mounted Switches – WASD Support

Left: Plate-Mounted Switch (3-Pin). Right: PCB-Mounted Switch (5-Pin).

 

Although, as mentioned before:

 

 


 

Edit: A friend helpfully corrected me and pointed out that the board seems to use Outemu hot-swap sockets. Thus, completely disregard my switch recommendations from earlier. Most, if not all, of the switches I recommended will have thicker metal pins that probably will not fit the Outemu socket.

 

If you'd like linear or tactile Outemu switches, you're probably stuck with Outemu Reds (linear), Outemu Browns (tactile), and perhaps Outemu SKYs (tactile). No comments on the quality and typing experience of the Reds and Browns, but the SKYs have been well-received.

Apologies for any confusion I may have caused.

Thanks you again! 

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