First time custom loop (hard-line), O11XL, 3090, 3900X. Lazarus shenanigans

[unknownfactor]

This build reuses a bunch of parts from my previous which had Dual AIO. This is my first custom-loop with hard-line tubing and no distro-block; I definitely fucked up quite a lot in the process.

 

Spec list:

• CPU: AMD Ryzer 9 3900X
• GPU: Zotac Gaming GeForce RTX 3090 Trinity
• Motherboard: Asus ROX Strix X570-E Gaming
• Memory: 2x16GB G.Skill Trident Z Neo (3600Mhz, C16)
• SSD: Corsair MP600 Force Series (1TB)
• HDD: WD Black 6TB, 7200RPM
• Case: Lian Li O11-XL
• PSU: Corsair HX Platinum 850Watt 80+ Platinum
• Monitor: C49RG90 49" 5120x1440 120 Hz
   
• Keyboard: Corsour K70 RGB MK.2 (Cherry Brown)
• Mouse: Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum (Wireless-ish, shitty battery life)
   
• CPU Block: EK-Quantum Velocity (D-RGB, Nickel + Plexi)
• GPU Block: EK-Quantum Vector Trinity (3080/3090, D-RGB, Nickel + Plexi) (With backplate)
• Pump/Res: EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE-300 D5 PWN D-RGB Acetal
• Radiator: 2x EK-CoolStream PE360
• Fittings: AlphaCool (Nickel)
• Tubing: AlphaCool HardTube (Brass with chrome)

Some build-log:

Before I started building, I had tested the 3090 and memory in my old system and everything worked fine. So I started the new build, did all of the tube-runs...

Of course, with the GPU in the vertical mount bracket... On first boot, obviously it did not work due to the PCI-E Gen 3 riser.

I managed to leave the 3090 in the riser (and thus in the hard-line loop), whilst unplugging the riser and plugging in a different riser behind it- this was a pain in the ass because of all the hard-line tubing getting in the way of my hands.

With my old 2080 Ti plugged in I was able to get into the Bios, which had no option for setting the PCI-E generation. I decided to try update my bios and was happy to find the updated version did have the option.

After setting the top slot to use PCI-E Gen 3, I removed the 2080 Ti+Riser, and plugged the 3090's riser back in- at which point disaster hit.

 

My clumpsy hands hit the tube going into the CPU a bit too hard- or at least one too many times- and (a relatively small amount of) water spilled out. I pulled the power plug, did what I could with papertowels (but found that almost nothing seemed wet at all), and called it a night- leaving what residual water might be left to dry fpr 24 hours. Afterwards, I turned it on, got into windows, and visual artifacts started to happen; I immediately turned the PC off, but afterwards it would not turn back on again.

 

I tried the system with my 2080 (+ riser), it worked. I took my 3090 out of the loop (connected a soft-tube between the radiator and CPU), removed the riser and tried the 3090 without the riser; almost immediately resulting in a post-code (62) and the screen doing nothing. I tried a few more things but could not get it back to work and was pretty devastated (this was on christmas day). I plugged the old 2080 Ti back in and just played Cyberpunk for the rest of the day.

The next day I took the radiator and backplate off from the 3090, wanted to see if I could find any signs of either water or anything burnt or alike. I saw nothing, no wetness, no dampness, no signs of any burns or short circuits. I figured it was dead, but decided to just try it one last time... And it worked (or at least, I got a post). At this point I did not have any water running through it, so I turned it off immediately and had no idea if it was stable. I had already gotten into windows before immediately after the water-spill, so I wasnt completely reassured. Anyway, I reconnected it back into the original loop (did not have enough fittings for soft-tubing to quickly test things that way), managed to get back into windows and after having no problems in windows for about half an hour, played cyberpunk for a few hours to make sure it stayed stable (which it did).

At this point I had to go back to finish up some more cables in the case (including the front-panel cables, of which only the power switch was connected- and water-temperature sensor. Both rather inaccessible- so I drained the loop first, but was/am still quite cautious about touching the tubes.

 

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Anyway; TLDR: 3090 pulled a Lazarus on me. Was dead, but now he (she?) lives.

I am super pleased with how everything looks.

 

 

I know the tube-runs arent perfectly straight. Unfortunate, but it's my first custom loop, let alone hard-line. So I'm kind of okay with that.

I also know the RGB on my GPU block isn't working. It is plugged in, but apparently broken (and never worked before either). Other stuff plugged into the same ARGB header works  fine. I do not want to go through the trouble of having it replaced and replacing the block, dealing with the opening up the loop for replacement etc.

Yes, some of the cable management could definitely be nicer.

Yes, I custom modeled and 3D printed that bracket/mount for the pump-res combo.

[jaslion]

I like it a lot more when people use non transparent tubes for their waterloops looks nicer and cleaner to me + a bit of a industrial vibe. Since these are just metal ones no worries with bad bends you can easily redo them without a hassle so if you ever do maintenance or want to fix some you can easily reuse almost everything. The one in the front tho does simply look too short. Not bad for a first try and looks pretty good.

[unknownfactor]

2 minutes ago, jaslion said:

I like it a lot more when people use non transparent tubes for their waterloops looks nicer and cleaner to me + a bit of a industrial vibe. Since these are just metal ones no worries with bad bends you can easily redo them without a hassle so if you ever do maintenance or want to fix some you can easily reuse almost everything. The one in the front tho does simply look too short. Not bad for a first try and looks pretty good.

Actually to my knowledge you can't really bend these without losing the chrome. They're sold prebent and are (from my understanding) bent before the chrome layer is added.

[jaslion]

6 minutes ago, unknownfactor said:

Actually to my knowledge you can't really bend these without losing the chrome. They're sold prebent and are (from my understanding) bent before the chrome layer is added.

Oops didn't see that it was chrome. Yeah chrome distorts when bent too much but it doesn't break away.

[A1200]

That... monitor.... wow I thought I was in an elite class with my FI27Q-P - yours is in a whole new league!