powersupply question

[DominicNikon]

Hello,i currently own a 750 watt psu 80+ bronze and i am upgrading my pc/building a new one in the same case and the new parts on pc part picker will use 700 watts. would the 750 be enough for being on 24/7 or will i need to buy a new psu too?

[Brooksie359]

We would be able to make a better decision if you told us the exact model of the power supply and what parts you are planning on using. Right now all I could say is maybe? Entirely depends on the power supply and what your build is using. 

[minibois]

What are your system specs and what is the PSU you are talking about?

[DominicNikon]

1 hour ago, minibois said:

What are your system specs and what is the PSU you are talking about?

i currently own a corsair cx750m. the specs will be amd ryzen 9 3900x 32gb ddr4 2 sli GTX 980 (current cards) 3 drives, custom loop with 5 140mm fans pump will use around 30 watts

[JoshHendi]

3900x with two 980s... a 750 miight cut it, but I would go for a 1000w so you're not flirting with the 80% load/fringe range, I'd spend $150 to protect that hardware 

[Whiro]

12 minutes ago, JoshHendi said:

3900x with two 980s... a 750 miight cut it, but I would go for a 1000w so you're not flirting with the 80% load/fringe range, I'd spend $150 to protect that hardware 

Where you get that number from?? 
980 draw roughly 165w x2 cards thats 330w ,r9 3900x another 145w, so far under 500w. Rest of the system not huge amount so imo 750 will be enough 

 

[JoshHendi]

Im just saying, you dont want to run past 80% of your PSUs rated power, so 600 in your case... Your GPUs and CPU pull under 500 okay, but your PC has more power draw than that. Your 750 PROBABLY is okay... So if you wanna run a PROBABLY okay PSU with your expensive hardware, go for it.

[DominicNikon]

58 minutes ago, Whiro said:

so far under 500w

this is what pc part picker says btw

[DominicNikon]

6 minutes ago, JoshHendi said:

Your GPUs and CPU pull under 500 okay

this is what pc part picker says for wattage. what would running the psu at 92% total power do? the probably ok doesn't sound the best

[Whiro]

16 minutes ago, DominicNikon said:

this is what pc part picker says btw

Try to find actual reviews of the card how much actual power it draws. 750 will be enough, I wouldn’t oc anything with it but still it’ll be alright. Whole system with one 980 draws 304w even if you double that it’s under 750.

 

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Whiro said:

Where you get that number from?? 
980 draw roughly 165w x2 cards thats 330w ,r9 3900x another 145w, so far under 500w. Rest of the system not huge amount so imo 750 will be enough 

 

GTX 980's OC pretty well. They'll produce 200w with some over-volting. 

Mines at 181.9w with a mild o.c and o.v F@H, GPU is reporting 1.212v @ 1405mhz (will do 200w + np.)

 

Gotta suggest high Amp Rails and at Least a Gold rated PSU. I suggest Seasonic.

 

If he upgrades to say a pair of 2070 supers (215w), he might as well go big or stay home. 850w

[seon123]

3 hours ago, ShrimpBrime said:

GTX 980's OC pretty well. They'll produce 200w with some over-volting. 

Mines at 181.9w with a mild o.c and o.v F@H, GPU is reporting 1.212v @ 1405mhz (will do 200w + np.)

 

Gotta suggest high Amp Rails and at Least a Gold rated PSU. I suggest Seasonic.

 

If he upgrades to say a pair of 2070 supers (215w), he might as well go big or stay home. 850w

Assuming 225W per GPU, you're at about 450W for both GPUs, and the total system should draw about 520-550W under a gaming load. Stiil fine.

The current rating per rail should be as low as possible, while powering any connected parts without issue. Would you rather want a 16A breaker for your room, or a 160A one? Which do you think would be safer?

Seasonic likes to cheap out on the protections and on the fan; and they outsource, so their QC is not going to be as good as PSUs from larger OEMs. It's better to just get a good PSU, regardless of the brand.

3 hours ago, DominicNikon said:

this is what pc part picker says for wattage. what would running the psu at 92% total power do? the probably ok doesn't sound the best

The wattage calculator on PCPP us absolutely useless. Click the box to see how they get to their estimate.

3 hours ago, JoshHendi said:

Im just saying, you dont want to run past 80% of your PSUs rated power, so 600 in your case... Your GPUs and CPU pull under 500 okay, but your PC has more power draw than that. Your 750 PROBABLY is okay... So if you wanna run a PROBABLY okay PSU with your expensive hardware, go for it.

Any decent PSU is rated for continuous power. Do you know what continuous means?

7 hours ago, DominicNikon said:

Hello,i currently own a 750 watt psu 80+ bronze and i am upgrading my pc/building a new one in the same case and the new parts on pc part picker will use 700 watts. would the 750 be enough for being on 24/7 or will i need to buy a new psu too?

You should be fine on your CXM. It has a 5 year warranty, so especially within the warranty period you should be fine. Consider getting a higher end PSU if you want full modularity, lower noise or other features.

[Guest]

5 hours ago, seon123 said:

Assuming 225W per GPU, you're at about 450W for both GPUs, and the total system should draw about 520-550W under a gaming load. Stiil fine.

The current rating per rail should be as low as possible, while powering any connected parts without issue. Would you rather want a 16A breaker for your room, or a 160A one? Which do you think would be safer?

Seasonic likes to cheap out on the protections and on the fan; and they outsource, so their QC is not going to be as good as PSUs from larger OEMs. It's better to just get a good PSU, regardless of the brand.

The wattage calculator on PCPP us absolutely useless. Click the box to see how they get to their estimate.

Any decent PSU is rated for continuous power. Do you know what continuous means?

You should be fine on your CXM. It has a 5 year warranty, so especially within the warranty period you should be fine. Consider getting a higher end PSU if you want full modularity, lower noise or other features.

What are you talking about 16a vs 160a.

 

If my wiring can carry the load, I want the 160a breaker. The breaker is there for safety yes.... But I can plug more things in with the 160a breaker.

 

This would be a first time Ive seen someone suggest low amp rails.

 

What th heck good is a PSU with only 1 12v rail with low ampa? Oh that would be a low watt psu.....

 

I know exactly what continous power means.

Both my 850w and 1000w Antec PSUs are CP series.

 

On LN2, the 1000w gave me net gains of 100mhz.

 

Now what you are saying is to buy a cp series psu with a low amp rail.

Not good suggestions my friend.

[Mezoxin]

48 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

What are you talking about 16a vs 160a.

 

If my wiring can carry the load, I want the 160a breaker. The breaker is there for safety yes.... But I can plug more things in with the 160a breaker.

 

This would be a first time Ive seen someone suggest low amp rails.

 

for a multi GPU system I would get a higher capacity PSU  to accomodate for transient spikes not tripping the OPP 

what he meant is the circuitry from the gpu side behind the each of the 8 pcie connectors are probably designed to carry a max sustained load of 150w each as per PCI-SIG requirements , and the pcie cables themselves being daisy chained 2x8pin connectors are rated for maximum sustained load of 21A/252w .

so  adding a PSU that is theoretically capable of shooting down 83A/1000w toward a single pcie cable  in a faluire scenario is more dangerous than using a psu that maxes out at 54A/650w  or even a much safer option like  a psu with multiple 12v rail with OCP set at 40A 

[Guest]

7 hours ago, Mezoxin said:

for a multi GPU system I would get a higher capacity PSU  to accomodate for transient spikes not tripping the OPP 

what he meant is the circuitry from the gpu side behind the each of the 8 pcie connectors are probably designed to carry a max sustained load of 150w each as per PCI-SIG requirements , and the pcie cables themselves being daisy chained 2x8pin connectors are rated for maximum sustained load of 21A/252w .

so  adding a PSU that is theoretically capable of shooting down 83A/1000w toward a single pcie cable  in a faluire scenario is more dangerous than using a psu that maxes out at 54A/650w  or even a much safer option like  a psu with multiple 12v rail with OCP set at 40A 

Over-Kill = less chance on failures. I do understand the point being made, but if a PSU dies and takes out other components, which most now-a-days are built with protection for that, is kind of on the rare side.

Then you have options such as dual PCB PSUs and so forth, not getting into too much detail as it's all a moot point, most people here are very far from extreme enough to worry if this or that rail has 10amp capacity more or less of another PSU ect ect.

 

He also mentioned the fan quality on the Seasonic PSUs being poor. Well if the PSU has enough overhead, it'll likely never be warm enough to spin the fan up. I've never heard my 850w spin the fan up under a load. I've had it about a decade. Ran quad-fire 4850's and even then, ran pretty cool. 

 

 

[seon123]

8 hours ago, ShrimpBrime said:

What are you talking about 16a vs 160a.

 

If my wiring can carry the load, I want the 160a breaker. The breaker is there for safety yes.... But I can plug more things in with the 160a breaker.

There is also the chance that something connected to an outlet may fail. If e.g. a heater plugged into an outlet fails and starts pulling 5000W, it would make sense for the breaker to pop. The wiring may be able to carry the load, but it would be less safe than e.g. having one breaker per outlet, with a lower tripping point. In a PSU, the equivalent could be the motherboard VRM failing and drawing >1000W just through a single 8 pin EPS connector. The PSU should shut down in that case.

8 hours ago, ShrimpBrime said:

This would be a first time Ive seen someone suggest low amp rails.

 

What th heck good is a PSU with only 1 12v rail with low ampa? Oh that would be a low watt psu.....

That's why multi rail PSUs are a thing. With e.g. the AX1600i, you can change the OCP tripping point to whatever you want. You get the wattage, you get the compatibility, and you get the safety. E.g. the T2 1600W makes sense for actual overclockers, but you'd have to be quite... uninformed to buy it for a regular system.

[Guest]

Yes yes, I know a few guys that have 1600w PSUs. I also know a few guys that'll run 2 8 packs instead. It's all about preference more so than worries these days.

 

I agree 1600w is wayyy too much over-kill for 99.8% of the viewers in this forum for sure...... but we are only looking to cover the Original Poster with his current plus future upgrades, it looks as if he enjoys SLI. Internal quality is a must here. 

 

Semantics my friends. We need not dwell too greatly deep into the subject really. I see people building nice rigs and really going cheap on the PSU because of poor suggestions and stupid wattage calculators. (you know what I mean)

 

I mention SeaSonic because for starters, their warranty on average is at least 2 years longer (12 year warranty) and that's a BIG selling point and goes to show their confidence in the quality of the build on X  (w/e) Seasonic Lineup. Fan died on the 11th year..... warranty. Done. 

 

My Antec PSUs are pretty old. Coming up on end of life warranty. I fear nothing about that. Both my 850w and 1000w PSU's have been through many overclocks. They both have been through many extreme cooling overclocking sessions. If either dies, I'd be going to Seasonic for sure and big wattage because that's where I need them. High Amp 12v Rail is a must for any real CPU extreme overclocking. Setting aside the average user here...... They'd never put a load on their PSU like extreme overclockers would/could. 

 

So all that being said, Yea sure.... 550w for most NON-overclockers with maybe a 3600x and a 2070 ti single card would be ok, but also depends on the rest of the build. AIO plugs into the motherboard. A good custom loop.... only for RPM readings. 

 

My Custom water loop had 6 Delta fans rated 1.6 amp. No kidding, that's a lot of draw. Again, talking extreme, but even with the wattage pulled, with 1000w PSU, I still had to be sure of decent over-head on the rails. I found un-even balancing of the loads was shutting the PSU down. 850w wasn't cutting it. (that's where the 1000w was purchased). 

 

Crazy to think just how much abuse my PSUs have taken in the last 10 years. I'd have to look, but probably between 2 and 3 dozen extreme overclocks between the two PSUs I have.