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Newly bought Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070S EVGA causing computer not able to turn on!

Umomomo

My PC spec are as follows:
ASUS Prime Z370-P
Intel Core i7-8700K 6Core
Memory 16G
Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 (Currently) upgrading to Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070S EVGA Black version
Monitor just upgraded to Alienware 1900R 34.1" Curved gaming monitor  with 4ms 120Hz Overclocked Refresh rate, NVIDIA g-Sync, 21:9 Aspect Ratio

My problem.  After assembled GeForce RTX 2070s,  the computer will not turned on.  I make sure power was on and plugged, only won't turn on.  When I switched back to Gtx 1070, computer works fine.  After I used elimination method to determine the cause of the malfunction is due to power supply issue. I checked EVGA Geforce offical website min req power supply is 650W or greater.  However mine power supply is 600W.  Is this the issue causing the card not working?  I have no clue.  Please help...

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Your motherboard is kinda hmmmm for the hardware you got on it....

CPU:i7 9700k 5047.5Mhz All Cores Mobo: MSI MPG Z390 Gaming Edge AC, RAM:Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200MHz DDR4 OC 3467Mhz GPU:MSI RTX 2070 ARMOR 8GB OC Storage:Samsung SSD 970 EVO NVMe M.2 250GB, 2x SSD ADATA PRO SP900 256GB, HDD WD CB 2TB, HDD GREEN 2TB PSU: Seasonic focus plus 750w Gold Display(s): 1st: LG 27UK650-W, 4K, IPS, HDR10, 10bit(8bit + A-FRC). 2nd: Samsung 24" LED Monitor (SE390), Cooling:Fazn CPU Cooler Aero 120T Push/pull Corsair ML PRO Fans Keyboard: Corsair K95 Platinum RGB mx Rapidfire Mouse:Razer Naga Chroma  Headset: Razer Kraken 7.1 Chroma Sound: Logitech X-540 5.1 Surround Sound Speaker Case: Modded Case Inverted, 5 intake 120mm, one exhaust 120mm.

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1 minute ago, Constantin said:

Your motherboard is kinda hmmmm for the hardware you got on it....

The motherboard is fine. It isn't anything spectacular, but it is a decent mid level board.

 

As to the power concern... I think you are probably ok with 600w assuming it is a quality unit. If it isn't a quality unit then that would be an area of concern.

 

I was going to suggest you knocked your power switch off the headers, but it looks like it wasn't the issue if you went back to the 1070. When you say it won't power on do you mean when you hit the power button that NOTHING happens? No fans spinning, no lights, etc? If so that seems more like there might be a short on the 2070s that is causing the PSU to go into protection mode.

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600W should still be enough, the 2070super only draws about 200W under load. What is the PSU specifically?

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X  |  Cooler: Cryorig H7  |  Motherboard: MSI B450 Mortar  |  Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini  |  RAM: Team Vulcan 16GB  3000MHz  |  GPU: EVGA 1070ti Gaming (Kraken G12 Watercooled) |  PSU: Corsair TXM650  |  Storage: Samsung 860 EVO 500GB + WD Blue M.2 500GB  |  Network Card: Asus PCE-AC56  |  Monitor: Acer Nitro VG270U  |  Audio: Sennheiser HD6XX + Schiit Fulla 2

 

Laptop:

Lenovo s540:  CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3500U  |  RAM: 8GB DDR4 2666MHz  |  GPU: AMD Radeon Vega 8  |  Storage: 256GB NVME SSD

 

Other builds:

Spoiler

Workstation 1:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X  |  Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Rev 2  |  Motherboard: MSI X470 Gaming Pro  |  Case: Corsair Crystal 570X  |  RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200MHz  |  GPU: Nvidia Quadro P5000  |  PSU: Corsair TXM750  |  Storage 1: WD Green 120GB  |  Storage 2: WD Blue 1TB  |  Storage 3: Seagate Barracuda 4TB  |  Monitor: LG 27UD68

 

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4 minutes ago, AndrewB121 said:

600W should still be enough, the 2070super only draws about 200W under load. What is the PSU specifically?

This entirely depends on the quality of the PSU.

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Just now, AngryBeaver said:

This entirely depends on the quality of the PSU.

Hence why I asked which PSU he has...

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X  |  Cooler: Cryorig H7  |  Motherboard: MSI B450 Mortar  |  Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini  |  RAM: Team Vulcan 16GB  3000MHz  |  GPU: EVGA 1070ti Gaming (Kraken G12 Watercooled) |  PSU: Corsair TXM650  |  Storage: Samsung 860 EVO 500GB + WD Blue M.2 500GB  |  Network Card: Asus PCE-AC56  |  Monitor: Acer Nitro VG270U  |  Audio: Sennheiser HD6XX + Schiit Fulla 2

 

Laptop:

Lenovo s540:  CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3500U  |  RAM: 8GB DDR4 2666MHz  |  GPU: AMD Radeon Vega 8  |  Storage: 256GB NVME SSD

 

Other builds:

Spoiler

Workstation 1:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X  |  Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Rev 2  |  Motherboard: MSI X470 Gaming Pro  |  Case: Corsair Crystal 570X  |  RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200MHz  |  GPU: Nvidia Quadro P5000  |  PSU: Corsair TXM750  |  Storage 1: WD Green 120GB  |  Storage 2: WD Blue 1TB  |  Storage 3: Seagate Barracuda 4TB  |  Monitor: LG 27UD68

 

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I don't know the exact PSU model number.  However this whole PC I bought from Newegg is called ABS Battlebox Essential Meteor Gaming Desktop PC NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Intel Core 97-8700K(3.70 GHz) 16GB DDR4 240GB SSD 1 TB HDD windows 10.  I was able to find the power supply is 600W. 

 

I recently also got Samsung EVO 970 Plus SSD as well ( It runs smoothly and gaming experience is wayy better. )

 

@Constantin: to answer your question, when hit the power button, absultly nothing happens which leads me to believe it's Power supply issue.  Fans wasn't spinning, I didn't hear anything.  The lights turned on when I hit the switch in the back of PC.  

9 minutes ago, AngryBeaver said:

If so that seems more like there might be a short on the 2070s that is causing the PSU to go into protection mode.

Short on 2070s? you mean power supply not enough? 

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1 minute ago, Umomomo said:

I don't know the exact PSU model number.  However this whole PC I bought from Newegg is called ABS Battlebox Essential Meteor Gaming Desktop PC NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Intel Core 97-8700K(3.70 GHz) 16GB DDR4 240GB SSD 1 TB HDD windows 10.  I was able to find the power supply is 600W. 

 

I recently also got Samsung EVO 970 Plus SSD as well ( It runs smoothly and gaming experience is wayy better. )

 

@Constantin: to answer your question, when hit the power button, absultly nothing happens which leads me to believe it's Power supply issue.  Fans wasn't spinning, I didn't hear anything.  The lights turned on when I hit the switch in the back of PC.  

Short on 2070s? you mean power supply not enough? 

First off you quoted the wrong person.

 

So with the 2070 installed nothing happens when you hit the power button, but does when you flip the switch in back? If you flip the switch in the back to off for about 10 seconds then flip to on what happens? Try hitting the power button then and report what happens.

 

When I say a short I mean just what it sounds like. That for some reason the graphics card has a short in it and it is tripping the fail safe on the PSU. 

 

Now when it comes to the PSU does it not have a model number, brand name, etc on it? What color is it? Is it a ugly light grey unit with yellow and red power cords coming out?

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Try to find the exact model, it should be written on the side of the PSU. The fact that it's 600W doesn't really tell us anything.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X  |  Cooler: Cryorig H7  |  Motherboard: MSI B450 Mortar  |  Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini  |  RAM: Team Vulcan 16GB  3000MHz  |  GPU: EVGA 1070ti Gaming (Kraken G12 Watercooled) |  PSU: Corsair TXM650  |  Storage: Samsung 860 EVO 500GB + WD Blue M.2 500GB  |  Network Card: Asus PCE-AC56  |  Monitor: Acer Nitro VG270U  |  Audio: Sennheiser HD6XX + Schiit Fulla 2

 

Laptop:

Lenovo s540:  CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3500U  |  RAM: 8GB DDR4 2666MHz  |  GPU: AMD Radeon Vega 8  |  Storage: 256GB NVME SSD

 

Other builds:

Spoiler

Workstation 1:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X  |  Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Rev 2  |  Motherboard: MSI X470 Gaming Pro  |  Case: Corsair Crystal 570X  |  RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200MHz  |  GPU: Nvidia Quadro P5000  |  PSU: Corsair TXM750  |  Storage 1: WD Green 120GB  |  Storage 2: WD Blue 1TB  |  Storage 3: Seagate Barracuda 4TB  |  Monitor: LG 27UD68

 

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It would still post with your power supply it is very unlikely that is the issue. It would be a problem under load like gaming not from just powering on. This is probably a Bios issue put the old card back in or just use integrated graphics and do a bios update. 

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Ok so I took the computer apart and was able to find the following info in regards to the PSU.  The PSU is "MASTERWATT LITE 600W". ERP 2013 made from CoolerMaster. 

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5 minutes ago, Umomomo said:

Ok so I took the computer apart and was able to find the following info in regards to the PSU.  The PSU is "MASTERWATT LITE 600W". ERP 2013 made from CoolerMaster. 

That's a fairly low quality PSU, however it should still be enough to run a 2070 super, and it would definitely be enough to post. Maybe try updating your bios?

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X  |  Cooler: Cryorig H7  |  Motherboard: MSI B450 Mortar  |  Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini  |  RAM: Team Vulcan 16GB  3000MHz  |  GPU: EVGA 1070ti Gaming (Kraken G12 Watercooled) |  PSU: Corsair TXM650  |  Storage: Samsung 860 EVO 500GB + WD Blue M.2 500GB  |  Network Card: Asus PCE-AC56  |  Monitor: Acer Nitro VG270U  |  Audio: Sennheiser HD6XX + Schiit Fulla 2

 

Laptop:

Lenovo s540:  CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3500U  |  RAM: 8GB DDR4 2666MHz  |  GPU: AMD Radeon Vega 8  |  Storage: 256GB NVME SSD

 

Other builds:

Spoiler

Workstation 1:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X  |  Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Rev 2  |  Motherboard: MSI X470 Gaming Pro  |  Case: Corsair Crystal 570X  |  RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200MHz  |  GPU: Nvidia Quadro P5000  |  PSU: Corsair TXM750  |  Storage 1: WD Green 120GB  |  Storage 2: WD Blue 1TB  |  Storage 3: Seagate Barracuda 4TB  |  Monitor: LG 27UD68

 

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Do you think I should go get a better PSU, such as 750W maybe?  At least to test out.  Unfortunately I don't know anything about bios so I rather not to twink it.  

PS: EVGA website said min req for 2070S is 650W PSU. 

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On 12/7/2019 at 1:02 PM, Umomomo said:

Do you think I should go get a better PSU, such as 750W maybe?  At least to test out.  Unfortunately I don't know anything about bios so I rather not to twink it.  

PS: EVGA website said min req for 2070S is 650W PSU. 

It is easy Asus has software that does it for you it is not like it used to be. 

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On 12/7/2019 at 1:02 PM, Umomomo said:

Do you think I should go get a better PSU, such as 750W maybe?  At least to test out.  Unfortunately I don't know anything about bios so I rather not to twink it.  

PS: EVGA website said min req for 2070S is 650W PSU. 

Your system won't even go above 400w power usage, it would be better to get a more quality unit, even if it is rated to supple less wattage. What kind of budget would you have for something like that?

8086k Winner BABY!!

 

Main rig

CPU: R7 5800x3d (-25 all core CO 102 bclk)

Board: Gigabyte B550 AD UC

Cooler: Corsair H150i AIO

Ram: 32gb HP V10 RGB 3200 C14 (3733 C14) tuned subs

GPU: EVGA XC3 RTX 3080 (+120 core +950 mem 90% PL)

Case: Thermaltake H570 TG Snow Edition

PSU: Fractal ION Plus 760w Platinum  

SSD: 1tb Teamgroup MP34  2tb Mushkin Pilot-E

Monitors: 32" Samsung Odyssey G7 (1440p 240hz), Some FHD Acer 24" VA

 

GFs System

CPU: E5 1660v3 (4.3ghz 1.2v)

Mobo: Gigabyte x99 UD3P

Cooler: Corsair H100i AIO

Ram: 32gb Crucial Ballistix 3600 C16 (3000 C14)

GPU: EVGA RTX 2060 Super 

Case: Phanteks P400A Mesh

PSU: Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650w

SSD: Kingston NV1 2tb

Monitors: 27" Viotek GFT27DB (1440p 144hz), Some 24" BENQ 1080p IPS

 

 

 

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On 12/8/2019 at 9:35 PM, TheDankKoosh said:

Your system won't even go above 400w power usage, it would be better to get a more quality unit, even if it is rated to supple less wattage. What kind of budget would you have for something like that?

EVGA Supernova 850 G2, 80+ Gold 850W is on the way.  

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2 hours ago, Umomomo said:

Terrific unit, though a bit overkill on the wattage, but I guess that'll make it last longer by virtue of less heat.

8086k Winner BABY!!

 

Main rig

CPU: R7 5800x3d (-25 all core CO 102 bclk)

Board: Gigabyte B550 AD UC

Cooler: Corsair H150i AIO

Ram: 32gb HP V10 RGB 3200 C14 (3733 C14) tuned subs

GPU: EVGA XC3 RTX 3080 (+120 core +950 mem 90% PL)

Case: Thermaltake H570 TG Snow Edition

PSU: Fractal ION Plus 760w Platinum  

SSD: 1tb Teamgroup MP34  2tb Mushkin Pilot-E

Monitors: 32" Samsung Odyssey G7 (1440p 240hz), Some FHD Acer 24" VA

 

GFs System

CPU: E5 1660v3 (4.3ghz 1.2v)

Mobo: Gigabyte x99 UD3P

Cooler: Corsair H100i AIO

Ram: 32gb Crucial Ballistix 3600 C16 (3000 C14)

GPU: EVGA RTX 2060 Super 

Case: Phanteks P400A Mesh

PSU: Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650w

SSD: Kingston NV1 2tb

Monitors: 27" Viotek GFT27DB (1440p 144hz), Some 24" BENQ 1080p IPS

 

 

 

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CMOS reset. Hard to believe it does not even boot when PSU is functioning (as you said it works with 1070). Are you sure you have properly connected cables from PSU to GPU?

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23 minutes ago, Envit0 said:

Are you sure you have properly connected cables from PSU to GPU?

He must have switch the cards multiple times and you come up with this conclusion?

CPU:i7 9700k 5047.5Mhz All Cores Mobo: MSI MPG Z390 Gaming Edge AC, RAM:Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200MHz DDR4 OC 3467Mhz GPU:MSI RTX 2070 ARMOR 8GB OC Storage:Samsung SSD 970 EVO NVMe M.2 250GB, 2x SSD ADATA PRO SP900 256GB, HDD WD CB 2TB, HDD GREEN 2TB PSU: Seasonic focus plus 750w Gold Display(s): 1st: LG 27UK650-W, 4K, IPS, HDR10, 10bit(8bit + A-FRC). 2nd: Samsung 24" LED Monitor (SE390), Cooling:Fazn CPU Cooler Aero 120T Push/pull Corsair ML PRO Fans Keyboard: Corsair K95 Platinum RGB mx Rapidfire Mouse:Razer Naga Chroma  Headset: Razer Kraken 7.1 Chroma Sound: Logitech X-540 5.1 Surround Sound Speaker Case: Modded Case Inverted, 5 intake 120mm, one exhaust 120mm.

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21 minutes ago, Constantin said:

He must have switch the cards multiple times and you come up with this conclusion?

My conclusion was cmos reset, if not tried. Haven't ever heard that switching GPU's (which work) wouldn't even post.

 

Asking cable thing is more linked to maybe 2070 is shorting psu/ being faulty. Has he tried throwing GPU in another system?

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11 hours ago, Constantin said:

He must have switch the cards multiple times and you come up with this conclusion?

I did switch cards multiple times.  The differences between 1070 and 2070S is the following: 1070 only have one "eight dotted pin" while 2070S have two "eight dotted pin.  I switched them multiple times.  My thing is no matter how I switch them, they are all connected to the PSU.  So it doesn't really matter.  Since the PC doesn't even power up, either the PSU doesn't have enough juice or the new card is defect? But even with defect card, pc should able to start up.  

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