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Creative Sound Blaster Soundcards - Cracking/Popping sound FIXES

hello guys!!

i bought a week ago new soundcard "Creative Sound Blaster Z"

and got a lot of cracking and popping sound problems.. i tried so much drivers and some times i got fixed it for like 30 mins and it came back..

now i have seen a lot of people having the same problem, and i finally fixed everything and got no problems anymore last 4 days.

So i wanna share what i did to fix this,

 

1. First you have to be sure that intergrated audio is disabled in bios!

2. after that go to your software and apps (right mous button on start and click on Apps And Parts) and remove/uninstall  Realtek High Definition Audio Driver 

3. now go to this file location "C:\Windows\System32\drivers" and find this 2 files hdaudbus.sys & HdAudio.sys, and go to properties and go to security and you now have to give the user account all rights to then block access to the system follow these pics | picture 1 | Picture 2 |  Picture 3

4. go to this location "C:\Program Files (x86)\Realtek\Audio\HDA" if you can't find the folder Realtek just create it and for \Audio\HDA the same after that you have to go to properties off HDA and go to security and choose edit and disable all the rights for System  Follow this pic! | Picture 1 | Picture 2 | Picture 3

 

5. Follow these last 2 Pictures | Picture 1 | Picture 2

 

6. now you going to install This SoundBlaster Z driver and restart your pc and it should work!

 

I am running Windows 10 Version 1709

 

HERE YOU SEE TEST RUNNING FOR 25 MINS WITH LatencyMon

 

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I was considering buying this, so this is great to know! Thank you.

8086k

aorus pro z390

noctua nh-d15s chromax w black cover

evga 3070 ultra

samsung 128gb, adata swordfish 1tb, wd blue 1tb

seasonic 620w dogballs psu

 

 

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Never use an internal sound card, they are all crap.Buy an external USB DAC. They are a million times better.

 (\__/)

 (='.'=)

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I just thought cracks and pops were CL’s signature sound.....

 

This is a good attempt, but I had cracks and pops on previous systems that didn’t even have an internal sound card. I’ve always recommended against CL products. They are poorly supported, and there’s better ways of spending the money.

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 I allways had popping buzzing sounds with all my setups till I buy a magni/modi + yeti , all external  0 buzzing sounds quality had never been better

Case: Corsair 760T  |  Psu: Evga  650w p2 | Cpu-Cooler : Noctua Nh-d15 | Cpu : 8600k  | Gpu: Gygabyte 1070 g1 | Ram: 2x8gb Gskill Trident-Z 3000mhz |  Mobo : Aorus GA-Z370 Gaming K3 | Storage : Ocz 120gb sata ssd , sandisk 480gb ssd , wd 1gb hdd | Keyboard : Corsair k95 rgb plat. | Mouse : Razer deathadder elite | Monitor: Dell s2417DG (1440p 165hz gsync) & a crappy hp 24' ips 1080p | Audio: Schiit stack + Akg k712pro + Blue yeti.

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1 hour ago, JohnT said:

I just thought cracks and pops were CL’s signature sound.....

 

This is a good attempt, but I had cracks and pops on previous systems that didn’t even have an internal sound card. I’ve always recommended against CL products. They are poorly supported, and there’s better ways of spending the money.

I dont know about that, but i was doing some test runs on the service and the audio drivers,and the reason that you get that pops and cracks sounds is because of windows is keeping reinstalling the High Defination Audio Drivers, so what i did was block every possible way for windows to reinstall it if you removed it,

 

my reason why i bought this  audio card was i got that pops and cracks on my new Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 5 motherboard, and i thought it was because of some problems with this MOBO so i bought that Creative sound blaster Z and it didn't change anything, and then I realized that the motherboard audio was also just from Creative Sound Blaster and then I knew it had something to do with it

5 minutes ago, Peskanova said:

 I allways had popping buzzing sounds with all my setups till I buy a magni/modi + yeti , all external  0 buzzing sounds quality had never been better

this is my first time i got this problems...

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To make it even easier, you can also modify a windows 10 ISO file and remove all audio files and services such as HDaudio.sys and you can not give the system any rights to install drivers yourself,

I was planning this idea the next time, but as long as he keeps doing it right now I will not try it,

if you also find it interesting here is a link for the tool with which you can adjust windows ISO files CLICK HERE FOR THE LINK
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I dont know to read :(

Case: Corsair 760T  |  Psu: Evga  650w p2 | Cpu-Cooler : Noctua Nh-d15 | Cpu : 8600k  | Gpu: Gygabyte 1070 g1 | Ram: 2x8gb Gskill Trident-Z 3000mhz |  Mobo : Aorus GA-Z370 Gaming K3 | Storage : Ocz 120gb sata ssd , sandisk 480gb ssd , wd 1gb hdd | Keyboard : Corsair k95 rgb plat. | Mouse : Razer deathadder elite | Monitor: Dell s2417DG (1440p 165hz gsync) & a crappy hp 24' ips 1080p | Audio: Schiit stack + Akg k712pro + Blue yeti.

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6 minutes ago, Peskanova said:

I have exacly the same mobo as you , and a building that has not good electricity ( like popping speakers , led lights lasting 2-3 months , low tier psu's blowing (1 literally blew) ) and I was pissed for my poor microphone quality and those problems. 

I just said fuck off , bought a 140€ psu (evga 650 p2 platinum) that comes with 10 years warranty and all protections (tier 1 on this forum) and external devices like I said. 

Well tdlr , what psu do you have? maybe its psu's fault :( 

yes now that you say so, I thought in the beginning that it could be the PSU but I have not tried it yet,
I use the "gamdias astrape m1-650w"

and talking about this motherboard, you also sometimes have your bios reset itself after just restarting, if you have something changed in the bios

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Well well well , I never heard bout gamdias but I think thats a lower tier psu. If someone from here can tell about astrape m1...

Case: Corsair 760T  |  Psu: Evga  650w p2 | Cpu-Cooler : Noctua Nh-d15 | Cpu : 8600k  | Gpu: Gygabyte 1070 g1 | Ram: 2x8gb Gskill Trident-Z 3000mhz |  Mobo : Aorus GA-Z370 Gaming K3 | Storage : Ocz 120gb sata ssd , sandisk 480gb ssd , wd 1gb hdd | Keyboard : Corsair k95 rgb plat. | Mouse : Razer deathadder elite | Monitor: Dell s2417DG (1440p 165hz gsync) & a crappy hp 24' ips 1080p | Audio: Schiit stack + Akg k712pro + Blue yeti.

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Wow.  The amount of mis-information in this thread is hysterically epic.

 

1.  Sound Blaster cards work just fine when the on-board sound is enabled in the BIOS and the driver is installed in Windows.  I've done it that way for years.

 

2.  The problem our OP is facing sounds a lot like an electrical issue and with his PC and not anything to do with the on-board vs Sound Blaster card.  Buy quality parts, or don't be too surprised when you run into these sorts of issues.

 

3.  If the issue is due to grounding, get ground isolators and install them.

 

4.  Depending on what you're using the sound card for, nothing can come close to touching the Sound Blaster ZxR.  Nothing.  No external DAC is going to come close it it for clarity and audio location in games.  If, however, you're watching movies and/or listening to music, then sure, use a USB DAC if you want.

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Audio:  Sound Blaster AE-9 card | Mackie DL32R Mixer | Sennheiser HDV820 amp | Sennheiser HD820 phones | Rode Broadcaster mic |

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Man I am still using my sound blaster audigy 2 and my Live! 5.1. Even tho they are still being used into older rigs but would like to have a audigy into my newer rig. This onbord sound sucks and no i dont want to use a usb device eather.

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7 hours ago, jasonvp said:

Wow.  The amount of mis-information in this thread is hysterically epic.

 

1.  Sound Blaster cards work just fine when the on-board sound is enabled in the BIOS and the driver is installed in Windows.  I've done it that way for years.

 

2.  The problem our OP is facing sounds a lot like an electrical issue and with his PC and not anything to do with the on-board vs Sound Blaster card.  Buy quality parts, or don't be too surprised when you run into these sorts of issues.

 

3.  If the issue is due to grounding, get ground isolators and install them.

 

4.  Depending on what you're using the sound card for, nothing can come close to touching the Sound Blaster ZxR.  Nothing.  No external DAC is going to come close it it for clarity and audio location in games.  If, however, you're watching movies and/or listening to music, then sure, use a USB DAC if you want.

i just want to share this problem and the fix that worked for me, so other people can also try it out this helped for a friend off me today that has the Asus soundcard and when we did a latancy test its says HDaudio.sys was giving troubles and after removed and disabled HDaudio.sys solved all my pops and cracks sound and didn't came back so far 

 

and this issue,s is not with every pc systems it are just issues in some motherboards, its not because of Soundcards, just some little chipsets that are runnings on some motherboards and windows can't control them on the good way, so that this card works perfect is nice for you guys, but that doesn't say its the same on all motherboards

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8 hours ago, Peskanova said:

Well well well , I never heard bout gamdias but I think thats a lower tier psu. If someone from here can tell about astrape m1...

i will take a look at it, yeah i also got a second pc that is a HP Omen 880-076ND that has a 600wat PSU but that one is made by HP

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  • 4 weeks later...

YOU, Sir, are a genius! 

 

And concerning the "Buy quality parts" bla bla bla... I've got an Zxr in combination with a Z370 Aorus Gaming 7 Gigabyte Mainboard and had a ton of crackling sounds and bleeps when streaming videos... so thank you for this worthless tip, Mr. Bigmouth.

 

Anyway, thanks to Ketamingo420 everything works fine now! However in the world you found this solution o_O

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The new ones do not..and has a great sound to it....even with suspect caps...G-Luxon is definitely suspect...and Fujicon could be too...something like Jungfu or something.....

 

Nichicon Gold or something. 

2600x 4.3ghz-Loop

Msi X470 gaming plus

EVGA SuperSC CL16 3200 16gb

gtx 1060

pny nvme 480gb

mushkin eco3 480gb

Sound Blaster Audigy FX

Cooler Master GXII Pro 750w.

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  • 3 months later...

Actually I have a soundblaster fan for years.  I believe the hardware is sound but drivers are the issue.  If you research popping cracking in soundblaster products you will see the list goes on for 15 years or more!

 

I suspect it is all the white knighting going on with people trying to defend something that is seriously an issue for some.  Creative just came to the decision I feel long ago since the issue only affects some and since we have such.a fanbase that will defend us why bother to fix?

 

The issue is there even with their top products such as the X7.  I still like the X7 great hardware I just dont install.any drivers and it works fine.

 

If you wish to avoid the issue altogether buy a DAC they work great I actually uses them more than the X7 which is now on my home theater TV and retired from gaming

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Definetly will give this a shot sounds interesting I just wonder if this gets magically turned back on as soon as windows decides it needs an update!

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  • 10 months later...
On 12/11/2018 at 3:38 AM, Ketamingo420 said:

hello guys!!

i bought a week ago new soundcard "Creative Sound Blaster Z"

and got a lot of cracking and popping sound problems.. i tried so much drivers and some times i got fixed it for like 30 mins and it came back..

now i have seen a lot of people having the same problem, and i finally fixed everything and got no problems anymore last 4 days.

So i wanna share what i did to fix this,

 

1. First you have to be sure that intergrated audio is disabled in bios!

2. after that go to your software and apps (right mous button on start and click on Apps And Parts) and remove/uninstall  Realtek High Definition Audio Driver 

3. now go to this file location "C:\Windows\System32\drivers" and find this 2 files hdaudbus.sys & HdAudio.sys, and go to properties and go to security and you now have to give the user account all rights to then block access to the system follow these pics | picture 1 | Picture 2 |  Picture 3

4. go to this location "C:\Program Files (x86)\Realtek\Audio\HDA" if you can't find the folder Realtek just create it and for \Audio\HDA the same after that you have to go to properties off HDA and go to security and choose edit and disable all the rights for System  Follow this pic! | Picture 1 | Picture 2 | Picture 3

 

5. Follow these last 2 Pictures | Picture 1 | Picture 2

 

6. now you going to install This SoundBlaster Z driver and restart your pc and it should work!

 

I am running Windows 10 Version 1709

 

HERE YOU SEE TEST RUNNING FOR 25 MINS WITH LatencyMon

 

Man u are my hero!!! Nice work, it worked for me!!!

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/10/2018 at 8:38 PM, Ketamingo420 said:

hello guys!!

i bought a week ago new soundcard "Creative Sound Blaster Z"

and got a lot of cracking and popping sound problems.. i tried so much drivers and some times i got fixed it for like 30 mins and it came back..

now i have seen a lot of people having the same problem, and i finally fixed everything and got no problems anymore last 4 days.

So i wanna share what i did to fix this,

 

1. First you have to be sure that intergrated audio is disabled in bios!

2. after that go to your software and apps (right mous button on start and click on Apps And Parts) and remove/uninstall  Realtek High Definition Audio Driver 

3. now go to this file location "C:\Windows\System32\drivers" and find this 2 files hdaudbus.sys & HdAudio.sys, and go to properties and go to security and you now have to give the user account all rights to then block access to the system follow these pics | picture 1 | Picture 2 |  Picture 3

4. go to this location "C:\Program Files (x86)\Realtek\Audio\HDA" if you can't find the folder Realtek just create it and for \Audio\HDA the same after that you have to go to properties off HDA and go to security and choose edit and disable all the rights for System  Follow this pic! | Picture 1 | Picture 2 | Picture 3

 

5. Follow these last 2 Pictures | Picture 1 | Picture 2

 

6. now you going to install This SoundBlaster Z driver and restart your pc and it should work!

 

I am running Windows 10 Version 1709

 

HERE YOU SEE TEST RUNNING FOR 25 MINS WITH LatencyMon

 

This worked for me, thank you Ketamingo420

Windows 10    1903

asus x570 unify

3900x

 

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  • 11 months later...

I want to mention that this has fixed my sound issues

I had a creative sound blaster Z who had this cracking and sold it

Now i have a Creative Sound Blaster Ae5 plus who has this cracking issues

I have tried your solution and it fixed . Lets keep finger crossed

 

Ok It didnt worked

But i used the fix from this forum and now i dont have any cracking in sound

sysnative(dot).com

Topic title "System interrupts, Latency, HDaudbus.sys"

The fix was

"

To fix this, you need to switch "High Definition Audio Controller (Microsoft)" to MSI mode. In the registry in the key HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Enum\PCI""YOUR HD AUDIO PARENT""\DeviceParameters\Interrupt Management\MessageSignaled\InterruptProperties\ "MSISupported" Change to "0x00000001"
YOUR HD AUDIO PARENT see in Device Manager\Sound, Video and game controllers\hdaudio, realtek and other\Properties\Details\Parent

"

 

The culprit is a sys file from microsoft

 

system-interrupts-latency-hdaudbus-sys.2

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/11/2018 at 12:38 PM, Ketamingo420 said:

hello guys!!

i bought a week ago new soundcard "Creative Sound Blaster Z"

and got a lot of cracking and popping sound problems.. i tried so much drivers and some times i got fixed it for like 30 mins and it came back..

now i have seen a lot of people having the same problem, and i finally fixed everything and got no problems anymore last 4 days.

So i wanna share what i did to fix this,

 

1. First you have to be sure that intergrated audio is disabled in bios!

2. after that go to your software and apps (right mous button on start and click on Apps And Parts) and remove/uninstall  Realtek High Definition Audio Driver 

3. now go to this file location "C:\Windows\System32\drivers" and find this 2 files hdaudbus.sys & HdAudio.sys, and go to properties and go to security and you now have to give the user account all rights to then block access to the system follow these pics | picture 1 | Picture 2 |  Picture 3

4. go to this location "C:\Program Files (x86)\Realtek\Audio\HDA" if you can't find the folder Realtek just create it and for \Audio\HDA the same after that you have to go to properties off HDA and go to security and choose edit and disable all the rights for System  Follow this pic! | Picture 1 | Picture 2 | Picture 3

 

5. Follow these last 2 Pictures | Picture 1 | Picture 2

 

6. now you going to install This SoundBlaster Z driver and restart your pc and it should work!

 

I am running Windows 10 Version 1709

 

HERE YOU SEE TEST RUNNING FOR 25 MINS WITH LatencyMon

 

For me, it seems to be an interupt request problem with USB and a controller sharing the same IRQ. I'm running an old system. I may try a different slot for the Sound Card and see if it can be eliminated as an issue altogether.

 

Update** Moving the X-Fi to a PCIE 16x has seemed to fix the issue, even though it has the same IRQ assignment. Perhaps it just didn't have enough bandwidth on the slot it was in?

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  • 1 year later...

I have Crakling/Pooping noises on my Soundblaster AE/7, i thougt i fixed it by connecting my external Headphone AMP to the Speaker output.

It worked a time, but strangly after a Windows Update it came back even stronger.

 

The fix for me was really obvious, and i was a bit naive to think my Asus PCE-AX58BT WLAN PCiE card wouldnt cause any Problems.

 

After deactivating the Wifi Card in Device Manager (im only using Wifi in case of Powerline quitting to work) i have zero ditsutrbing noises.

i'm curious about why my old Soundblaster FX Audigy was working over many years without having Problems with any Wifi Pcie Card.

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