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Barnash

3600 + 2080ti?

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Budget (including currency):$2000-2500$ including monitor

Country: US

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Dota 2, CoD ,RS Siege, PoE and some upcoming AAA titles

Other details 1440p 144hz buying next week

 

Let me preface by saying that I have an opportunity to shop in the US and enjoy reasonable prices

prices in my country are 40% more expensive, buying now and upgrading later is something I want to avoid so the mentality is buy once cry once

 

Building a PC for my little brother purely for gaming Dota 2, CoD, RS Siege, PoE and some upcoming AAA titles

His budget is $2000 including a monitor

 

Aiming for 1440p 144hz experience I came up with a build but it exceeds the budget by $500

I wonder if it would be money well spent if I'll add the extra on my behalf for him having the best gaming experience possible

 

The plan is to upgrade to a high tier cpu later when architecture matures and probably oc it

 

 

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($172.99 @ Best Buy) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black 55 CFM CPU Cooler  ($70.00) 
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($189.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory  ($79.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($104.99 @ B&H) 
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB ROG Strix Gaming OC Video Card  ($1279.99 @ Best Buy) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($134.99 @ Best Buy) 
Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  ($379.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $2512.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-05 16:49 EDT-0400

 

 

 

 

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A 3600 can handle 1440p/144... whether it can keep a 2080ti interested enough to register on an activity list is another story - it may well spend a lot of it's time <5% utilised.


Did you test boot it, before you built in into the case?

WHY NOT...?!

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Since you seem to be doing mainly gaming I would even suggest you something like an i5 10600k, I know people like to shit on intel but it really has better gaming performance, same core and thread count, bit higher price but far better clock speed


Main PC [The Rig of Theseus]:

CPU: i5-8600k@5.0GHz | GPU 1: GTX 1660@2070MHz | GPU 2: GT 710 | RAM: 16 GB DDR4 3000MHz | Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic | PSU: Corsair RM 650i | SSD: Corsair MP510 480GB & Kingston UV400 120GB |  HDD: 2x 2TB WD Black | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro | OS: Windows 10 Pro & Linux Mint 

 

Secondary PC [Why did I bother]:

CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G | GPU: Vega 3 iGPU | RAM: 8 GB DDR4 3000MHz | Case: Corsair 88R | PSU: Corsair VS650 | SSD: WD Green M.2 SATA 120 GB | Motherboard: MSI A320M-A PRO MAX | OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Server [Solution in search of a problem]:

Model: HP DL360e Gen8 | CPU: 1x Xeon E5-2430L v1 | RAM: 12 GB DDR3 1066MHz | SSD: Kingston A400 120GB | OS: Debian Buster

 

Laptop [A hunk of shit]:

Model: MacBook Air Late 2010 | CPU: Core 2 Duo L9600 | RAM: 4 GB DDR3 1066MHz | OS: MacOS Catalina 

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11 minutes ago, Barnash said:

Budget (including currency):$2000-2500$ including monitor

Country: US

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Dota 2, CoD ,RS Siege, PoE and some upcoming AAA titles

Other details 1440p 144hz buying next week

 

Let me preface by saying that I have an opportunity to shop in the US and enjoy reasonable prices

prices in my country are 40% more expensive, buying now and upgrading later is something I want to avoid so the mentality is buy once cry once

 

Building a PC for my little brother purely for gaming Dota 2, CoD, RS Siege, PoE and some upcoming AAA titles

His budget is $2000 including a monitor

 

Aiming for 1440p 144hz experience I came up with a build but it exceeds the budget by $500

I wonder if it would be money well spent if I'll add the extra on my behalf for him having the best gaming experience possible

 

The plan is to upgrade to a high tier cpu later when architecture matures and probably oc it

 

 

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($172.99 @ Best Buy) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black 55 CFM CPU Cooler  ($70.00) 
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($189.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory  ($79.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($104.99 @ B&H) 
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB ROG Strix Gaming OC Video Card  ($1279.99 @ Best Buy) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($134.99 @ Best Buy) 
Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  ($379.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $2512.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-05 16:49 EDT-0400

I would recommend buying the B450 Tomahawk Max and upgrading to a 3700x. You are also able to save money on your cooler, if downgrading your motherboard doesn't give you enough budget to spare. Everything else is a pretty good selection, but you can get away with 3200mhz memory for $10 less.


@BlueScope819 so I can see your post

#MuricaParrotGang

"My name is Legion 'Murica Parrot Gang, for we are many."

Mentioned in 8/5/2020 TechLinked

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16 minutes ago, Barnash said:

buying now and upgrading later is something I want to avoid so the mentality is buy once cry once

Then honestly my advice would be waiting until a bit later this year and buying then, when new GPUs and CPUs come out. You'll likely be crying a whole lot less this way.

 

If you were to buy now though, I'd recommend something along these lines instead:

 

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XQ2v9G

 

CPU: Intel Core i5-10600K 4.1 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($294.99 @ Newegg) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black 55 CFM CPU Cooler  ($69.99) 
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z490 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard  ($189.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory  ($114.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Silicon Power A80 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($129.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card  ($754.99 @ Walmart) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: be quiet! Straight Power 11 650 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($134.90 @ B&H) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($27.95 @ Amazon) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($27.95 @ Amazon) 
Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  ($379.99 @ Amazon) 


Total: $2225.71

 

3 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

I would recommend buying the B450 Tomahawk Max and upgrading to a 3700x. You are also able to save money on your cooler, if downgrading your motherboard doesn't give you enough budget to spare. Everything else is a pretty good selection, but you can get away with 3200mhz memory for $10 less.

B450 Tomahawk Max and 3200MHz memory with a $2500 budget? lol what


Desktop: Intel Core i9-9900K (w/ TG Hydronaut) | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | ASUS Strix Z390-F | Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x16GB 3000MHz CL15 | Intel 660p 1TB | Samsung 860 EVO 500GB | WD Green 2TB | EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER XC Ultra (w/ TG Hydronaut @ 0.95V) | Corsair RM650x | Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout USB-C

Displays: Alienware AW2521HF & BenQ BL2420PT

Peripherals: Steelseries Rival 600 & Logitech MX Master 3 | Ducky Shine 7 Gunmetal (Cherry MX Brown) | Sennheiser Game One | Audio-Technica AT2020USB+

Laptop:  Apple MacBook Pro 13" 2018 - i5-8259U | 8GB RAM | 512GB SSD

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3600 will be fine at 1440p. In games like Dota at 1080p, a 10600K will best utilize the 2080ti. However it's $100 more and will only give a benefit at very high frame rates. 

I would also urge you to wait for the new GPU launches in a few months time. When you're spending this much on a pc, especially on the GPU, it would be a waste not to wait and see if you can get more performance for the same price or less potentially


PC

Ryzen 5 2600 Stock

Sapphire Nitro+ Special Edition Radeon RX580 8GB (Would Recommend)

Gigabyte B450M DS3H (Don't recommend)

Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition

Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4 3000MHz CL15 

Phanteks P300 (Would Recommend)

Kingston A400 240GB SSD

Seagate BarraCuda 1TB HDD

Corsair CX550M 550W  80+ Bronze

Deepcool FH-10 Fan Hub

3x BeQuiet Pure Wings 2

 

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/marmour/saved/QTY3ZL

 

Peripherals

LG 24MK400H

Logitech G413 Carbon

Logitech G305 (AAA Adaptor - 10g reduction) (Would recommend)

Logitech Z150

HyperX Cloud II (Would recommend)

Moto G5 Plus (Webcam)

 

Phone

Pixel 3A XL (Would recommend)

 

*Useful Link* PSU Tier List: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/

 

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8 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

Then honestly my advice would be waiting until a bit later this year and buying then, when new GPUs and CPUs come out. You'll likely be crying a whole lot less this way.

 

If you were to buy now though, I'd recommend something along these lines instead:

 

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XQ2v9G

 

CPU: Intel Core i5-10600K 4.1 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($294.99 @ Newegg) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black 55 CFM CPU Cooler  ($69.99) 
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z490 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard  ($189.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory  ($114.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Silicon Power A80 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($129.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card  ($754.99 @ Walmart) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: be quiet! Straight Power 11 650 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($134.90 @ B&H) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($27.95 @ Amazon) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($27.95 @ Amazon) 
Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  ($379.99 @ Amazon) 


Total: $2225.71

 

B450 Tomahawk Max and 3200MHz memory with a $2500 budget? lol what

Yup. I would strongly question your choice of parts here, as well. You are paying $100 more for the same 6 cores, albit at a higher clockspeed. You are paying $80 more for what is in essence the same motherboard, to the end user. As long as it works, an X570 Aqua is no different than a Tomahawk Max. It's also interesting to me how you were able to somehow find a 2x8 3600 kit of memory that is more than $100. It's just not required and perhaps @Barnash likes the look of the kit he selected. And, as a result of that, because you spent $200 more than you had to on your CPU + motherboard + memory combo, in order to stay in the budget it is actually required to downgrade to a 2080S instead of a 2080ti. Your "better build" would actually preform worse in games because of the worse GPU. Not to mention that OP had a 850 watt, nice, Corsair unit and for some reason you decided to remove 200 watts of headroom for a Be Quiet logo at the same price. (The RM PSU would actually probably be more quiet as it would operate at a less total % of peak load).

 

EDIT: I also just saw this, you swapped an NVME SSD for a Silicon Power SSD which is $30 more expensive? What even?


@BlueScope819 so I can see your post

#MuricaParrotGang

"My name is Legion 'Murica Parrot Gang, for we are many."

Mentioned in 8/5/2020 TechLinked

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Posted · Original PosterOP
13 minutes ago, mbntr said:

Since you seem to be doing mainly gaming I would even suggest you something like an i5 10600k, I know people like to shit on intel but it really has better gaming performance, same core and thread count, bit higher price but far better clock speed

True but for the extra cost I'll have to balance it out from the GPU most likely so I'll lose more performance than the gain I'm afraid

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Just now, Barnash said:

True but for the extra cost I'll have to balance it out from the GPU most likely so I'll lose more performance than the gain I'm afraid

yes, the performance level is similar and if you can't stretch your budget than go for the 3600, it's still a very valid CPU and it should be able to handle a 2080ti


Main PC [The Rig of Theseus]:

CPU: i5-8600k@5.0GHz | GPU 1: GTX 1660@2070MHz | GPU 2: GT 710 | RAM: 16 GB DDR4 3000MHz | Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic | PSU: Corsair RM 650i | SSD: Corsair MP510 480GB & Kingston UV400 120GB |  HDD: 2x 2TB WD Black | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro | OS: Windows 10 Pro & Linux Mint 

 

Secondary PC [Why did I bother]:

CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G | GPU: Vega 3 iGPU | RAM: 8 GB DDR4 3000MHz | Case: Corsair 88R | PSU: Corsair VS650 | SSD: WD Green M.2 SATA 120 GB | Motherboard: MSI A320M-A PRO MAX | OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Server [Solution in search of a problem]:

Model: HP DL360e Gen8 | CPU: 1x Xeon E5-2430L v1 | RAM: 12 GB DDR3 1066MHz | SSD: Kingston A400 120GB | OS: Debian Buster

 

Laptop [A hunk of shit]:

Model: MacBook Air Late 2010 | CPU: Core 2 Duo L9600 | RAM: 4 GB DDR3 1066MHz | OS: MacOS Catalina 

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1 minute ago, mbntr said:

yes, the performance level is similar and if you can't stretch your budget than go for the 3600, it's still a very valid CPU and it should be able to handle a 2080ti

News flash: A GPU matters more than a CPU for gaming. You need to spend $200 more on the i5 + board combo so by doing that you are taking money out of the rest of your system, say GPU, which again, matters more for gaming than a CPU.


@BlueScope819 so I can see your post

#MuricaParrotGang

"My name is Legion 'Murica Parrot Gang, for we are many."

Mentioned in 8/5/2020 TechLinked

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Posted · Original PosterOP
18 minutes ago, Eighjan said:

A 3600 can handle 1440p/144... whether it can keep a 2080ti interested enough to register on an activity list is another story - it may well spend a lot of it's time <5% utilised.

lol i'm sorry but what do you mean exactly?

if you're saying it can handle 1440/144 then why wouldn't it register on the activity list?

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26 minutes ago, Barnash said:

Budget (including currency):$2000-2500$ including monitor

Country: US

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Dota 2, CoD ,RS Siege, PoE and some upcoming AAA titles

Other details 1440p 144hz buying next week

 

Let me preface by saying that I have an opportunity to shop in the US and enjoy reasonable prices

prices in my country are 40% more expensive, buying now and upgrading later is something I want to avoid so the mentality is buy once cry once

 

Building a PC for my little brother purely for gaming Dota 2, CoD, RS Siege, PoE and some upcoming AAA titles

His budget is $2000 including a monitor

 

Aiming for 1440p 144hz experience I came up with a build but it exceeds the budget by $500

I wonder if it would be money well spent if I'll add the extra on my behalf for him having the best gaming experience possible

 

The plan is to upgrade to a high tier cpu later when architecture matures and probably oc it

 

 

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($172.99 @ Best Buy) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black 55 CFM CPU Cooler  ($70.00) 
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($189.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory  ($79.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($104.99 @ B&H) 
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB ROG Strix Gaming OC Video Card  ($1279.99 @ Best Buy) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($134.99 @ Best Buy) 
Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  ($379.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $2512.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-05 16:49 EDT-0400

 

 

 

 

so you have the money for a top end air cooled 2080 ti but dont have money for a 3700x/3800x?

then go for a 2080/2080s and get yourself a 3700x or a 3800x with a strong mothrboards.

its better to have a strong high end cpu paired with a strong high end gpu then a mid range cpu paired with the best top end gaming gpu 


"I fear not the man who has practiced 10,000 kicks once, but I fear the man who has practiced one kick 10,000 times." - Bruce Lee

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
5 minutes ago, HardStroke said:

so you have the money for a top end air cooled 2080 ti but dont have money for a 3700x/3800x?

then go for a 2080/2080s and get yourself a 3700x or a 3800x with a strong mothrboards.

its better to have a strong high end cpu paired with a strong high end gpu then a mid range cpu paired with the best top end gaming gpu 

but by doing that you lose performance in games so what's the point? what would a better cpu gives that the 3600 can't?

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18 minutes ago, Barnash said:

but by doing that you lose performance in games so what's the point? what would a better cpu give me that the 3600 can't?

if you go for intel's i5 10600k or a 10700k you will get high clock speeds and far better overclock performance which a 2080s/2080 ti can benefit from.

amd's 3700x and 3800x do have 2 more cores and 4 more threads which is really good and really worth the money 

in some games you get just a bit more frames (around 10 or 15) in 1440p with a 2080 ti - tested with a 3700x

im sure that a 2080 super can benefit from 8 cores and 16 threads and maybe even better then a 2080 ti with 6 cores and 12 threads but its your money, your decision. 


"I fear not the man who has practiced 10,000 kicks once, but I fear the man who has practiced one kick 10,000 times." - Bruce Lee

 

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21 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

Yup. I would strongly question your choice of parts here, as well. You are paying $100 more for the same 6 cores, albit at a higher clockspeed. You are paying $80 more for what is in essence the same motherboard, to the end user. As long as it works, an X570 Aqua is no different than a Tomahawk Max. It's also interesting to me how you were able to somehow find a 2x8 3600 kit of memory that is more than $100. It's just not required and perhaps @Barnash likes the look of the kit he selected. And, as a result of that, because you spent $200 more than you had to on your CPU + motherboard + memory combo, in order to stay in the budget it is actually required to downgrade to a 2080S instead of a 2080ti. Your "better build" would actually preform worse in games because of the worse GPU. Not to mention that OP had a 850 watt, nice, Corsair unit and for some reason you decided to remove 200 watts of headroom for a Be Quiet logo at the same price. (The RM PSU would actually probably be more quiet as it would operate at a less total % of peak load).

 

EDIT: I also just saw this, you swapped an NVME SSD for a Silicon Power SSD which is $30 more expensive? What even?

Whatever you say, I'll respond to you in a bit, I really cba atm


Desktop: Intel Core i9-9900K (w/ TG Hydronaut) | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | ASUS Strix Z390-F | Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x16GB 3000MHz CL15 | Intel 660p 1TB | Samsung 860 EVO 500GB | WD Green 2TB | EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER XC Ultra (w/ TG Hydronaut @ 0.95V) | Corsair RM650x | Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout USB-C

Displays: Alienware AW2521HF & BenQ BL2420PT

Peripherals: Steelseries Rival 600 & Logitech MX Master 3 | Ducky Shine 7 Gunmetal (Cherry MX Brown) | Sennheiser Game One | Audio-Technica AT2020USB+

Laptop:  Apple MacBook Pro 13" 2018 - i5-8259U | 8GB RAM | 512GB SSD

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16 minutes ago, Barnash said:

but by doing that you lose performance in games so what's the point? what would a better cpu give me that the 3600 can't?

check this video

 

in most games the 2080 ti performs better paired with a strong high end cpu then with a budget cpu like the 3600 and its just in 1080p

3700x is a bit weaker then a 9900k, they perform pretty close to each other from tests that i saw

if you want a 3600 and a 2080 ti just to say that you have a 2080 ti it will be a really bad decision when you can get a 2080s and a 3700x or a 3800x 


"I fear not the man who has practiced 10,000 kicks once, but I fear the man who has practiced one kick 10,000 times." - Bruce Lee

 

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19 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

News flash: A GPU matters more than a CPU for gaming. You need to spend $200 more on the i5 + board combo so by doing that you are taking money out of the rest of your system, say GPU, which again, matters more for gaming than a CPU.

 

A 2080ti and 3600 is rather unbalanced as a build, sure you get better performance from a 3300x paired with a titan RTX than from a 3700 and a 2080 but that is just stupid, 180 USD for a CPU and 1200 USD for the GPU makes little to no sense,1440p 144Hz can be done with a 2080 or even a 2070 super, you do not need that much horsepower.

The price gap is also nowhere that high, z490 boards can be had for 160 dollars and B460 can cost less than 70, the CPU is alsoabout 60-70 bucks more and it is much faster in gaming.

 

A better loadout would be a 3700 or a 10600k + 2080 Super

 


Main PC [The Rig of Theseus]:

CPU: i5-8600k@5.0GHz | GPU 1: GTX 1660@2070MHz | GPU 2: GT 710 | RAM: 16 GB DDR4 3000MHz | Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic | PSU: Corsair RM 650i | SSD: Corsair MP510 480GB & Kingston UV400 120GB |  HDD: 2x 2TB WD Black | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro | OS: Windows 10 Pro & Linux Mint 

 

Secondary PC [Why did I bother]:

CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G | GPU: Vega 3 iGPU | RAM: 8 GB DDR4 3000MHz | Case: Corsair 88R | PSU: Corsair VS650 | SSD: WD Green M.2 SATA 120 GB | Motherboard: MSI A320M-A PRO MAX | OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Server [Solution in search of a problem]:

Model: HP DL360e Gen8 | CPU: 1x Xeon E5-2430L v1 | RAM: 12 GB DDR3 1066MHz | SSD: Kingston A400 120GB | OS: Debian Buster

 

Laptop [A hunk of shit]:

Model: MacBook Air Late 2010 | CPU: Core 2 Duo L9600 | RAM: 4 GB DDR3 1066MHz | OS: MacOS Catalina 

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Just now, mbntr said:

180 USD for a CPU and 1200 USD for the GPU makes little to no sense,1440p 144Hz can be done with a 2080 or even a 2070 super, you do not need that much horsepower.

I have a 8700k and a 2080. I struggle in RDR2 to get over 70 FPS at pretty low settings, on the bar graph thing. Like perhaps 4 notches above min (perhaps 20 notches on the entire scale). (1440p). My GPU is loaded pretty hard, but my CPU, almost nothing. While I agree that something more powerful would be suited for it, in certain games and circumstances it would be just fine. My number for difference in price is based off of my experience with others that have recommenced the 10600k vs the 3600, and their CPU + board + cooler + mem combos were all over $200 more expensive. Just my experience. Look at your own parts list. If you swapped the GPU with the same 2080ti, it would be much more expensive, even more than $200.


@BlueScope819 so I can see your post

#MuricaParrotGang

"My name is Legion 'Murica Parrot Gang, for we are many."

Mentioned in 8/5/2020 TechLinked

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Posted · Original PosterOP
15 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

I have a 8700k and a 2080. I struggle in RDR2 to get over 70 FPS at pretty low settings, on the bar graph thing. Like perhaps 4 notches above min (perhaps 20 notches on the entire scale). (1440p). My GPU is loaded pretty hard, but my CPU, almost nothing. While I agree that something more powerful would be suited for it, in certain games and circumstances it would be just fine. My number for difference in price is based off of my experience with others that have recommenced the 10600k vs the 3600, and their CPU + board + cooler + mem combos were all over $200 more expensive. Just my experience. Look at your own parts list. If you swapped the GPU with the same 2080ti, it would be much more expensive, even more than $200.

$183 difference...

 

3600 stock cooler     + b450 tomahawk + 2080ti         = $2247.91

10600k noctua u12s + z490 tomahawk + 2080 super = $2064.91

 

Idk what to do 🤦‍♂️

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2 hours ago, BlueScope819 said:

Yup. I would strongly question your choice of parts here, as well. You are paying $100 more for the same 6 cores, albit at a higher clockspeed. You are paying $80 more for what is in essence the same motherboard, to the end user. As long as it works, an X570 Aqua is no different than a Tomahawk Max. It's also interesting to me how you were able to somehow find a 2x8 3600 kit of memory that is more than $100. It's just not required and perhaps @Barnash likes the look of the kit he selected. And, as a result of that, because you spent $200 more than you had to on your CPU + motherboard + memory combo, in order to stay in the budget it is actually required to downgrade to a 2080S instead of a 2080ti. Your "better build" would actually preform worse in games because of the worse GPU. Not to mention that OP had a 850 watt, nice, Corsair unit and for some reason you decided to remove 200 watts of headroom for a Be Quiet logo at the same price. (The RM PSU would actually probably be more quiet as it would operate at a less total % of peak load).

 

EDIT: I also just saw this, you swapped an NVME SSD for a Silicon Power SSD which is $30 more expensive? What even?

I'm not gonna bother quoting each observation of yours separately because there's no point.

 

Those "same 6 cores" are better for gaming, plain and simple. Zen 3 might tighten that gaming performance gap, hence why I suggested OP to wait until later this year for new hardware to come out, but until then Intel is still better for gaming than AMD. If we're to go by your logic, why not recommend a 3300X? It offers pretty much the same gaming performance as the 3600 now (or even slightly better in some cases because of the absence of extra CCX latency), and I guess with all the saving money in a $2500 build a 3300X would work just nicely.

 

Yeah, it's the same motherboard to the end user (unless they actually care about a board's features and more nitty gritty details, but I guess you haven't thought about that), until they actually want to upgrade to a high-end 12-core CPU and maybe do some overclocking and notice that that same motherboard is now throttling because of subpar VRMs. But then again, it's a $2500 build, better go with a B450 board to save some money, eh?

 

If you'd have actually checked before writing this, you'd notice that that memory kit is 3600MHz 16-16-16-36. It's a Samsung B-die kit, which you could more than likely easily get to around 4000MHz with a little extra voltage and some time. Is that also interesting to you?

 

Oh yeah, going with a 2080 Super instead of the Ti is SUCH A DOWNGRADE, honestly, that single digit extra percentage of performance of the 2080Ti is more than worth the extra $400+.

 

The Straight Power 11 is plain old better than the RM. Why buy an 850W unit when you're not gonna even gonna need half of its rated output really? Also, there's PSU "rated" for like 1200W that go for 50 bucks, better get one of those eh? Who cares about the quality of components, the number on the box is higher so it's gotta be better.

 

I just love how you said "an NVMe SSD". It's an SSD that uses QLC flash, it's unsuitable for an OS drive, even more so since, again, THIS IS A $2500 BUILD. wHaT eVeN?

 

Honestly, maybe actually start and at least double-check why I picked the parts I did pick before you start blabbering and recommending fucking B450 boards for a $2500 build in 2020. I get recommending less expensive parts to save money, I do it as well when it is the case and when it doesn't mean sacrificing on the entire rest of the build just to get a slightly faster GPU. 

Either way, here's the build but with a 3600 and cheaper RAM, just to make your day better.

 

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Gxb7Nq

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($172.99 @ Best Buy) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black 55 CFM CPU Cooler  ($69.99) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 AORUS PRO AC ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($189.99 @ B&H) 
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory  ($92.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Silicon Power A80 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($129.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card  ($754.99 @ Walmart) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: be quiet! Straight Power 11 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($109.90 @ B&H) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($27.95 @ Amazon) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($27.95 @ Amazon) 
Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  ($379.99 @ Amazon) 


Total: $2056.71


Desktop: Intel Core i9-9900K (w/ TG Hydronaut) | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | ASUS Strix Z390-F | Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x16GB 3000MHz CL15 | Intel 660p 1TB | Samsung 860 EVO 500GB | WD Green 2TB | EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER XC Ultra (w/ TG Hydronaut @ 0.95V) | Corsair RM650x | Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout USB-C

Displays: Alienware AW2521HF & BenQ BL2420PT

Peripherals: Steelseries Rival 600 & Logitech MX Master 3 | Ducky Shine 7 Gunmetal (Cherry MX Brown) | Sennheiser Game One | Audio-Technica AT2020USB+

Laptop:  Apple MacBook Pro 13" 2018 - i5-8259U | 8GB RAM | 512GB SSD

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25 minutes ago, Barnash said:

The upper one WILL be better for gaming, simply because it has an RTX 2080 ti. It is more expensive, but that's all down to the graphics card. The difference between the RTX 2080S and RTX 2080ti is still considerable, however looking at the price (500$ difference), it may not be worth it to you. It would be $300 cheaper to get the 3600 and 2080S, which would be more balanced, with only about a difference in performance of about 15%.


@BlueScope819 so I can see your post

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Mentioned in 8/5/2020 TechLinked

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3 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

Those "same 6 cores" are better for gaming, plain and simple. Zen 3 might tighten that gaming performance gap, hence why I suggested OP to wait until later this year for new hardware to come out, but until then Intel is still better for gaming than AMD. If we're to go by your logic, why not recommend a 3300X? It offers pretty much the same gaming performance as the 3600 now (or even slightly better in some cases because of the absence of extra CCX latency), and I guess with all the saving money in a $2500 build a 3300X would work just nicely.

I agree, but not about the part with the 3300x. The extra 2 cores do matter for gaming quite a lot.

3 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

Yeah, it's the same motherboard to the end user (unless they actually care about a board's features and more nitty gritty details, but I guess you haven't thought about that), until they actually want to upgrade to a high-end 12-core CPU and maybe do some overclocking and notice that that same motherboard is now throttling because of subpar VRMs. But then again, it's a $2500 build, better go with a B450 board to save some money, eh?

OP said this was a gaming focused build, so there wouldn't really be any reason to upgrade to anything more than the 3800x. (8C)

4 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

If you'd have actually checked before writing this, you'd notice that that memory kit is 3600MHz 16-16-16-36. It's a Samsung B-die kit, which you could more than likely easily get to around 4000MHz with a little extra voltage and some time. Is that also interesting to you?

Not very interesting. Again, OP said this was a gaming focused build, so overclocking his memory is really just going to be more trouble than the return he gets in gaming performance.

5 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

Oh yeah, going with a 2080 Super instead of the Ti is SUCH A DOWNGRADE, honestly, that single digit extra percentage of performance of the 2080Ti is more than worth the extra $400+.

Perhaps he should get the 3600 with a 2080S then and save $400

 

5 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

The Straight Power 11 is plain old better than the RM. Why buy an 850W unit when you're not gonna even gonna need half of its rated output really? Also, there's PSU "rated" for like 1200W that go for 50 bucks, better get one of those eh? Who cares about the quality of components, the number on the box is higher so it's gotta be better.

To the end user, there isn't really any difference. It's a nice corsair RM unit, all of the differences in overcurrent or the quality of the contacts of whatever else PSU cultists like to use to compare PSU quality really don't matter to the end user.

6 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

I just love how you said "an NVMe SSD". It's an SSD that uses QLC flash, it's unsuitable for an OS drive, even more so since, again, THIS IS A $2500 BUILD. wHaT eVeN?

You check out the LTT video on the 8tb SSD? It uses QLC, but turns some of those into a MLC cache and then in drive downtime later converts it to QLC. Many other SSDs use similar tech. I would also recommend watching his video on the 660p.

7 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

Honestly, maybe actually start and at least double-check why I picked the parts I did pick before you start blabbering and recommending fucking B450 boards for a $2500 build in 2020. I get recommending less expensive parts to save money, I do it as well when it is the case and when it doesn't mean sacrifing on the entire rest of the build just to get a slightly faster GPU.

sacrificing*

A b450 board is perfectly fine. It meets his needs. A 10600k is slightly better for gaming, sure. It's the same deal as you said in a previous section:

8 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

Oh yeah, going with a 2080 Super instead of the Ti is SUCH A DOWNGRADE, honestly, that single digit extra percentage of performance of the 2080Ti is more than worth the extra $400+.

The extra single digit extra percentage of performance of the 10600k is "more than worth the extra $200". Same deal.

9 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

Either way, here's the build but with a 3600 and cheaper RAM, just to make your day better.

 

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Gxb7Nq

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($172.99 @ Best Buy) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black 55 CFM CPU Cooler  ($69.99) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 AORUS PRO AC ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($189.99 @ B&H) 
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory  ($92.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Silicon Power A80 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($129.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card  ($754.99 @ Walmart) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: be quiet! Straight Power 11 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($109.90 @ B&H) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($27.95 @ Amazon) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($27.95 @ Amazon) 
Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  ($379.99 @ Amazon) 


Total: $2056.71

Thanks for that. Any reason for the $190 motherboard? Does OP need PCIe 4.0 or is this for gaming? Better choice on the memory. For the SSD... As I said, just because it's QLC doesn't mean it's bad. Nice GPU and case. A 550w PSU for a 2080S + 3600?

 

Anyway you're welcome for the quotes also tagging OP so he can see this.

@Barnash


@BlueScope819 so I can see your post

#MuricaParrotGang

"My name is Legion 'Murica Parrot Gang, for we are many."

Mentioned in 8/5/2020 TechLinked

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33 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

OP said this was a gaming focused build, so there wouldn't really be any reason to upgrade to anything more than the 3800x. (8C)

Who knows what the standard will be 5 years from now? Again, what's the point in limiting your upgradability options in a build with that budget?

34 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

Not very interesting. Again, OP said this was a gaming focused build, so overclocking his memory is really just going to be more trouble than the return he gets in gaming performance.

Regardless of what you find interesting, it's faster. And for Ryzen it'll make even more of a difference, especially if you get a CPU that can push 1900MHz on the FCLK, since you can easily overclock that kit to 3800MHz.

35 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

Perhaps he should get the 3600 with a 2080S then and save $400

Indeed

36 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

You check out the LTT video on the 8tb SSD? It uses QLC, but turns some of those into a MLC cache and then in drive downtime later converts it to QLC. Many other SSDs use similar tech. I would also recommend watching his video on the 660p.

I did actually. The amount of cache (which afaik is SLC on most drives) varies depending on the capacity of the drive, so you're not going to see even close to as big of a cache on a 1TB drive as you'll see on that specific 8TB drive. 

Having used an Intel 660p as an OS drive, I can personally confirm that it will choke even when you're just installing a game and trying to browse the web. And it's a chore. Again, how can you justify cheaping out on the SSD on a $2500 build?

38 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

A b450 board is perfectly fine. It meets his needs.

I commented on this previously. Technically OP could also buy an A320 board and it'll probably work with a 6-core, why not recommend that instead?

38 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

A 550w PSU for a 2080S + 3600?

Yes, a 550W PSU for a 2080 Super and 3600. What's your point?


Desktop: Intel Core i9-9900K (w/ TG Hydronaut) | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | ASUS Strix Z390-F | Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x16GB 3000MHz CL15 | Intel 660p 1TB | Samsung 860 EVO 500GB | WD Green 2TB | EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER XC Ultra (w/ TG Hydronaut @ 0.95V) | Corsair RM650x | Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout USB-C

Displays: Alienware AW2521HF & BenQ BL2420PT

Peripherals: Steelseries Rival 600 & Logitech MX Master 3 | Ducky Shine 7 Gunmetal (Cherry MX Brown) | Sennheiser Game One | Audio-Technica AT2020USB+

Laptop:  Apple MacBook Pro 13" 2018 - i5-8259U | 8GB RAM | 512GB SSD

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1 hour ago, Mateyyy said:

Who knows what the standard will be 5 years from now? Again, what's the point in limiting your upgradability options in a build with that budget?

You really aren't, because even in 3 years time I don't think it would be unreasonable to use an 8 core for gaming. This being the end of the line for AM4 means that in terms of single thread, you aren't going to get anything better than Ryzen 4th gen (Desktop), so you aren't really limiting your options. There isn't a point putting a 12 core in the board if your game can't take advantage of it. It's not really a question of how much the hardware advances, it's really a question of how game devs decide to code their stuff.

 

1 hour ago, Mateyyy said:

Regardless of what you find interesting, it's faster. And for Ryzen it'll make even more of a difference, especially if you get a CPU that can push 1900MHz on the FCLK, since you can easily overclock that kit to 3800MHz.

What's the % difference in FPS between 3200mhz and 3800mhz memory for a 3600?

1 hour ago, Mateyyy said:

I did actually. The amount of cache (which afaik is SLC on most drives) varies depending on the capacity of the drive, so you're not going to see even close to as big of a cache on a 1TB drive as you'll see on that specific 8TB drive. 

Having used an Intel 660p as an OS drive, I can personally confirm that it will choke even when you're just installing a game and trying to browse the web. And it's a chore. Again, how can you justify cheaping out on the SSD on a $2500 build?

This isn't really a 660p, but for the same price you could get a 970 evo plus, but at only half the capacity. Generally, for gaming, IMO, size matters more than raw speed, because according to the "can you tell the difference between ssds" LTT video, there isn't really much of a noticeable difference.

1 hour ago, Mateyyy said:

I commented on this previously. Technically OP could also buy an A320 board and it'll probably work with a 6-core, why not recommend that instead?

Yes, a 550W PSU for a 2080 Super and 3600. What's your point?

Because you couldn't stick in the 4800x or whatever that will be down the line with no issues. I know it's a similar argument, like why get the better board when X will do, but in this case B450 is actually required in order to upgrade, rather than it being a "nice to have" like X570 with a 3950x or whatever, when a 3950x and a 3800x isn't really any different for gaming at the moment.

As for the PSU, I would not recommend anything under a 650 watt because the PSU will be less efficient and running at a higher % of it's total power, which means that it will be louder. I have a 750 G3 for my build, (8700k OC, 2080), and the fan never spins. That's what I want from a PSU.


@BlueScope819 so I can see your post

#MuricaParrotGang

"My name is Legion 'Murica Parrot Gang, for we are many."

Mentioned in 8/5/2020 TechLinked

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Majority of games yes, but maybe get the X model just to get a little extra. :)


1000 to 1700$ builds (August 2020)
Spoiler

AMD Ryzen 5 3600 (1000$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/PLBXcq

AMD Ryzen 5 3600 (1050$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/dvnTGc

AMD Ryzen 5 3600X (1200$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/js7hhg

AMD Ryzen 7 3700X (1500$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/KbgL8M

AMD Ryzen 7 3800X (2000$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/Xb9WgJ

Intel Core i5-10400/10400F (1000$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/jTTBV7

Intel Core i7-10700/10700F (1250$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/3j969G

Intel Core i5-10400/10400F Z490 (1000$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/3vJy6R

Intel Core i5-10600K/10600KF Z490 (1200$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/9CxHPn

Intel Core i5-10600K/10600KF Z490 (1650$) build: pcpartpicker.com/list/X9MVx6

Lake-V-X6-10600 (Gaming PC) | R20 score MC: 3550cb | R20 score SC: 499cb

Spoiler

Case: Cooler Master HAF XB Evo Black / Case Fan(s) Front: Noctua NF-A14 ULN 140mm Premium Fans / Case Fan(s) Rear: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (red) / Case Fan(s) Side: Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX 60mm Premium Fan / Case Fan VRM: SUNON MagLev KDE1209PTV3 92mm / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo / CPU: Intel Core i5-10600 (Base: @3.3GHz | Turbo: @4.8GHz) Hexa-Core (Intel 14nm++++) / Display: ASUS 24" LED VN247H (67Hz OC) 1920x1080p / GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX Vega 56 Gaming OC @1501MHz (Samsung 14nm FinFET) / Keyboard: Logitech Desktop K120 (Nordic) / Motherboard: ASUS PRIME B460 PLUS, Socket-LGA1200 / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 850W PSU / RAM: G.Skill Sniper X DDR4-2666MHz CL16-18-18-38-1T (2x8GB) 16.38GB / Operating System 1: Windows 10 Home / Sound: Zombee Z300 / Storage 1 & 2: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD / Storage 3: Seagate® Barracuda 2TB HDD / Storage 4: Seagate® Desktop 2TB SSHD / Wi-fi: TP-Link TL-WN951N 11n Wireless Adapter

Zen-II-X6-3600 (Gaming PC) | R20 score MC: 3688cb (3688avg) | R20 score SC: 489cb (487avg)

Spoiler

Case: Medion Micro-ATX Case / Case Fan Front: SUNON MagLev PF70251VX-Q000-S99 70mm / Case Fan Rear: Fanner Tech(Shen Zhen)Co.,LTD. 80mm (Purple) / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: AMD Near-silent 125w Thermal Solution / CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 (Base: @3.6GHz | Turbo: @4.2GHz) Hexa-Core (T.S.M.C. 7nm) / Display: HP 19" Flat Panel L1940 (75Hz) 1280x1024 / GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GD5 OC "Afterburner" @1450MHz (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / Keyboard: HP KB-0316 PS/2 (Nordic) / Motherboard: ASRock B450M Pro4, Socket-AM4 / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 550W PSU / RAM: HyperX Fury DDR4-3066MHz CL14-17-17-34-1T (2x8GB) 16.38GB / Operating System 1: Windows 10 Home / Sound 1: Zombee Z500 / Sound 2: Logitech Stereo Speakers S-150 / Storage 1 & 2: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD / Storage 3: Western Digital My Passport 2.5" 2TB HDD / Storage 4: Western Digital Elements Desktop 2TB HDD / Wi-fi & Bluetooth: ASUS PCE-AC55BT Wireless Adapter

Vishera-X8-9370 (old config 4)

Spoiler

Case: Cooler Master HAF XB Evo Black / Case Fan(s) Front: Noctua NF-A14 ULN 140mm Premium Fans / Case Fan(s) Rear: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (red) / Case Fan(s) Side: Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX 60mm Premium Fan / Case Fan VRM: SUNON MagLev KDE1209PTV3 92mm / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo / CPU: AMD FX-8370 (Base: @4.4GHz | Turbo: @4.7GHz) Black Edition Eight-Core (Global Foundries 32nm) / Display: ASUS 24" LED VN247H (67Hz OC) 1920x1080p / GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX Vega 56 Gaming OC @1501MHz (Samsung 14nm FinFET) / Keyboard: Logitech Desktop K120 (Nordic) / Motherboard: MSI 970 GAMING, Socket-AM3+ / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 850W PSU / RAM 1, 2, 3 & 4: Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1866MHz CL8-10-10-28-37-2T (4x4GB) 16.38GB / Operating System 1: Windows 10 Home / Sound: Zombee Z300 / Storage 1: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD (x2) / Storage 2: Seagate® Barracuda 2TB HDD / Storage 3: Seagate® Desktop 2TB SSHD / Wi-fi: TP-Link TL-WN951N 11n Wireless Adapter / https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZW4Jtg 

Godavari-X4-880 (old config 3)

Spoiler

Case: Medion Micro-ATX Case / Case Fan Front: SUNON MagLev PF70251VX-Q000-S99 70mm / Case Fan Rear: Fanner Tech(Shen Zhen)Co.,LTD. 80mm (Purple) / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: AMD Near-silent 125w Thermal Solution / CPU: AMD Athlon X4 880K Black Edition Elite Quad-Core (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / Display: HP 19" Flat Panel L1940 (75Hz) 1280x1024 / GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GD5 OC "Afterburner" @1450MHz (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / Keyboard: HP KB-0316 PS/2 (Nordic) / Motherboard: MSI A78M-E45 V2, Socket-FM2+ / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 550W PSU / RAM 1, 2, 3 & 4: SK hynix DDR3-1866MHz CL9-10-11-27-40 (4x4GB) 16.38GB / Operating System 1: Ubuntu Gnome 16.04 LTS (Xenial Xerus) / Operating System 2: Windows 10 Home / Sound 1: Zombee Z500 / Sound 2: Logitech Stereo Speakers S-150 / Storage 1: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD (x2) / Storage 2: Western Digital My Passport 2.5" 2TB HDD / Storage 3: Western Digital Elements Desktop 2TB HDD / Wi-fi: TP-Link TL-WN851N 11n Wireless Adapter / https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LBjbw6

Vishera-X8-8370 (old config 2)
Spoiler

Case: Cooler Master HAF XB Evo Black / Case Fan(s) Front: Noctua NF-A14 ULN 140mm Premium Fans / Case Fan(s) Rear: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (red) / Case Fan(s) Side: Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX 60mm Premium Fan / Case Fan VRM: SUNON MagLev KDE1209PTV3 92mm / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo / CPU: AMD FX-8370 Black Edition Eight-Core (Global Foundries 32nm) / Display: ASUS 24" LED VN247H (67Hz OC) 1920x1080p / GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GD5 OC "Afterburner" @1450MHz (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / Keyboard: Logitech Desktop K120 (Nordic) / Motherboard: MSI 970 GAMING, Socket-AM3+ / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 850W PSU / RAM 1, 2, 3 & 4: SK hynix DDR3-1866MHz CL9-10-11-27-44 (4x4GB) 16.38GB / Operating System 1: Ubuntu Kylin 14.04 LTS (Xenial Xerus) / Operating System 2: Windows 10 Home / Sound: Zombee Z300 / Storage 1: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD (x2) / Storage 2: Seagate® Barracuda 2TB HDD / Storage 3: Seagate® Desktop 2TB SSHD / Wi-fi: TP-Link TL-WN951N 11n Wireless Adapter / https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZW4Jtg

Kaveri-X4-860K (old config 1)

Spoiler

Case: Medion Micro-ATX Case / Case Fan Front: SUNON MagLev PF70251VX-Q000-S99 70mm / Case Fan Rear: Fanner Tech(Shen Zhen)Co.,LTD. 80mm (Purple) / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: AMD FX-8370 125w Thermal Solution / CPU: AMD Athlon X4 860K Black Edition Elite Quad-Core (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / Display: HP 19" Flat Panel L1940 (75Hz) 1280x1024 / GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 SuperSC 2GB (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / Keyboard: HP KB-0316 PS/2 (Nordic) / Motherboard: MSI A78M-E45 V2, Socket-FM2+ / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 550W PSU / RAM 1, 2, 3 & 4: Corsair Vengeance DDR3-2133MHz CL9-11-11-31-42 (4x4GB) 16.38GB / Operating System 1: Ubuntu Kylin 14.04 LTS (Xenial Xerus) / Operating System 2: Windows 10 Home / Sound 1: Zombee Z500 / Sound 2: Logitech Stereo Speakers S-150 / Storage 1: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD (x2) / Storage 2: Seagate® Desktop 2TB SSHD / Storage 3: Western Digital Elements Desktop 2TB HDD / Wi-fi: TP-Link TL-WN851N 11n Wireless Adapter

Complete portable device SoC history:

Spoiler
Apple A4 - Apple iPod touch (4th generation)
Apple A5 - Apple iPod touch (5th generation)
Apple A9 - Apple iPhone 6s Plus
MSM8926 - Microsoft Lumia 640 LTE
MSM8974AA - Blackberry Passport
MT2601 - TicWatch E
MT6580 - TECNO Spark 2 (1GB RAM)
MT6592M - my|phone my32 (orange)
MT6592M - my|phone my32 (yellow)
MT6735 - HMD Nokia 3 Dual SIM
MT6737 - Cherry Mobile Flare S6
MT6739 - my|phone myX8 (blue)
MT6739 - my|phone myX8 (gold)
MT6750 - Huawei honor 6C Pro / V9 Play
MT6765 - TECNO Pouvoir 3 Plus
MT6797D - my|phone Brown Tab 1
SDM710 - Oppo Realme 3 Pro

 

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