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MrAeRoZz

After Upgrading to 16GB Windows shuts down after 2 seconds of showing desktop

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Posted · Original PosterOP

https://www.acer.com/datasheets/2012/4876/V3-571G/NX.RZLEG.005.html

 

My friend upgraded his RAM to 2x8GB from 2x4GB. When only 1 RAM stick is in, everything works fine. With 2 RAM Sticks it crashes instantly. Bios shows all 16Gig. Booting into safe mode makes the system run normally. While in safe mode I checked and the 16GB are regognized from windows 10 64bit Home too * (upgraded from Win 7). The Bios has literally no options whatsoever. No Ram Timings, Voltage etc. 

 

Some Websites report that the system can have up to 16GB RAM others say only 8GB RAM. Acer's datasheet says only 8GIG MAX. On which im not sure if they just mean it only comes with max 8gb pre configured or it just cant support more.

 

Bios Updates are a mystery. There are no Updates for WIndows 10 Aviable and the latest for Win 7 is from 2012/13. Any Possible solutions for this, or just tell him to send the RAM back to amazon and get a new laptop?

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To be honest - that laptop looks like it can handle Microsoft Word and struggles with anything else that is more demanding.

It has close to no benefits from upgrading since every part of it lacks performance by ANY means of today's games.

If he jsut needs it for old games and internet/office, keep it as it is. If he wants to do anything else with it - go for a new laptop.


Old System:                                                                 Current System :

i7-3770k + Cooler Master Hyper 212                           i9 9900k + Noctua NH-D15

Gigabyte Z77M-D3H                                                    Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Master

Evga Geforce GTX 970 SC                                          GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER GAMING OC 

HyperX FURY Red 16GB 1600MHz DDR3                 G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200MHz DDR4 

bequiet PURE POWER 600W 80+ bronze                  Corsair RM 650x 80+ gold

Samsung 850 Evo 120 GB + 1TB HDD                       Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500GB 

                                                                                     Thermaltake Level 20 MT ARGB 

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Have they tried both sticks on their own? It could be that only one of the ram sticks is functional and the other is a dud. Try booting with just one of the sticks and then try booting with just the other stick to try and verify that both sticks of ram work fine on their own. 

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1 hour ago, MrAeRoZz said:

https://www.acer.com/datasheets/2012/4876/V3-571G/NX.RZLEG.005.html

 

My friend upgraded his RAM to 2x8GB from 2x4GB. When only 1 RAM stick is in, everything works fine. With 2 RAM Sticks it crashes instantly. Bios shows all 16Gig. Booting into safe mode makes the system run normally. While in safe mode I checked and the 16GB are regognized from windows 10 64bit Home too * (upgraded from Win 7). The Bios has literally no options whatsoever. No Ram Timings, Voltage etc. 

 

Some Websites report that the system can have up to 16GB RAM others say only 8GB RAM. Acer's datasheet says only 8GIG MAX. On which im not sure if they just mean it only comes with max 8gb pre configured or it just cant support more.

 

Bios Updates are a mystery. There are no Updates for WIndows 10 Aviable and the latest for Win 7 is from 2012/13. Any Possible solutions for this, or just tell him to send the RAM back to amazon and get a new laptop?

You might want to do a little more research. If Windows opens in Safe Mode, it's probably a driver issue, because Safe Mode prevents most drivers from loading. Take the system back down to its original 8GB configuration, then go into Windows normally, go to Acer's support site, and update every single driver for your hardware through Acer--don't just let Windows Update pick and choose for you. Then reboot normally, make sure everything works right and shut the system down. Install the remaining 8GB of RAM and see what happens at 16.

 

If there's still instability and you're certain you updated with the right drivers, a BIOS issue might be causing it. BIOS updates are best served on a USB stick, and performed directly through BIOS. The BIOS itself doesn't care what OS you're running, but Acer's utility does if you go that route. Don't be tempted by the easier, riskier way. Place the updated BIOS (if there is one) onto a USB stick and do it through BIOS. There should be an OS option in the Acer site that says "none" or "BIOS", and the raw BIOS file (usually .cab, I think, and often part of a zip file from the OEM site) is what you're after.

 

What BIOS version are you on now? It's possible that a future version added support for 16GB of memory, or at least smoothed out support for it.

 

45 minutes ago, Kenpachi1985 said:

To be honest - that laptop looks like it can handle Microsoft Word and struggles with anything else that is more demanding.

It has close to no benefits from upgrading since every part of it lacks performance by ANY means of today's games.

If he jsut needs it for old games and internet/office, keep it as it is. If he wants to do anything else with it - go for a new laptop.

The biggest difference in terms of performance between an i5-3210M and something like an i5-6300U is power efficiency. The GT630M, while not capable of HD gaming outside of older or simpler titles, can still handle 480p gaming as a stand-in until something better can be found. And that's even assuming gaming is the goal. It's more than capable of HD video playback, either 768p on the laptop screen or 1080p if hooked to an external monitor.


Sabre - i7-8086K - MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X - AsRock Z370 Fatal1ty Gaming K6 - 32GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR4-2400 - 250GB Western Digital Black M.2 NVMe PCIe 3.0x4 - 1TB Inland Professional SSD - 960GB SanDisk Ultra II - 4TB Seagate Barracuda - Corsair RM650i - Fractal Design Meshify C White TG - Noctua NH-C14S

 

Senketsu - Ryzen 5 1600 - MSI GTX 1050 Ti LP - Gigabyte B450 AORUS M - 16GB "OEM Special" craptastic DDR4-2400 with a stunning green PCB - 500GB Dell M.2 NVMe SSD - Silverstone SF450 - ABS R206-ITX (worst/best case ever) - Wraith Spire

 

Banzai - i7-6700T - MSI RX 550 LP - Gigabyte GA-B150N Phoenix - 16GB HyperX Fury DDR4-2400 - 240GB Crucial M500 - Seasonic 300W Server PSU (loud af) - HP Slimline s3200n chassis - Rosewill RCX-775-LP (loud af)

 

Ok Boomer - Pentium G3258 - MSI GTX 750 Ti LP - ASUS H81M-C - 16GB Patriot Viper DDR3-1600 - Vaseky 64GB mSATA SSD - Corsair SF600 - Athenatech A100BB - Rosewill RCX-Z300 - Windows XP

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5 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

The biggest difference in terms of performance between an i5-3210M and something like an i5-6300U is power efficiency. 

Yup - My i5 3470 (much more affordable) is only 6% slower than an i5 6500, people assume the larger numbers equate to massive performance gains.


Ryzen Rig 2: ASrock B450 Pro4 ATX, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X Nitro 4gb HBM (+100mhz core clock), 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker (or 4x8gb DDR4 2666mhz for large tasks), Corsair HX850 PSU, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiator, 128gb Patriot Scorch NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case.  DSI 90-Key Mechanical Keyboard w/ Cherry Red switches, Zalman ZM-GM1 mouse, Hannspree HF207 and Acer AL2016W monitors

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Ryzen Rig 1: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X Nitro 4gb HBM, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case.  Zalman K600S keyboard, Zalman ZM-GM1 mouse, Acer XF270HU 2560x1440 144hz IPS monitor

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37628874?

Dwight: The Mixed Metals Loop Media Center.  Ask me about it.  Currently decommissioned to move to an mATX setup on a new MOBO once I pick one out

Schrute: ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0, FX 8350, 2x Gigabyte HD 7850 2gb GPUs in crossfire, 16gb (4x4) Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600mhz, Sparkle/FSP 650w PSU, PCCOOLING 160w TDP air cooler, 60gb Patriot SSD Win 10 boot drive, 1tb WDBlack HDD, Rosewill Nautilus 1.0 case.  Logitech Wireless Keyboard and Mouse, Roku 55" 4k TV

Micro Form Factor Dell OptiPlex 3040: Dell 0MGK50 A02, i3-6100T, 4gb DDR3 1600, Team Group 120gb SSD, Windows 10 Pro, Logitech K400+, M.2 Intel Wifi/Bluetooth

Linux Box: Toshiba Laptop, i7 620M, NVS graphics, 2gb ram tinker toy at the moment.  Running Manjaro at the moment

APU Laptop: I need to clean this things TIM up so it can boot into Windows 7 for more than 5 minute before overheating at idle, it has things, I just haven't been on it in 2 years or so

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Just now, Tristerin said:

Yup - My i5 3470 (much more affordable) is only 6% slower than an i5 6500, people assume the larger numbers equate to massive performance gains.

I mean, they did between all the first-gen Core i platforms and Sandy Bridge because Intel was afraid of FX on the horizon, and they kind of do now because Intel's getting spanked by AMD, but yeah, everything between Sandy Bridge and Pointless Lake Kaby Lake has a 5% generation gap at most. The biggest difference between a 3317U and a 6600U is power consumption and thermals. That's really it. There's a reason ThinkPad T430s with their base 3210M chips are still worth so much.


Sabre - i7-8086K - MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X - AsRock Z370 Fatal1ty Gaming K6 - 32GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR4-2400 - 250GB Western Digital Black M.2 NVMe PCIe 3.0x4 - 1TB Inland Professional SSD - 960GB SanDisk Ultra II - 4TB Seagate Barracuda - Corsair RM650i - Fractal Design Meshify C White TG - Noctua NH-C14S

 

Senketsu - Ryzen 5 1600 - MSI GTX 1050 Ti LP - Gigabyte B450 AORUS M - 16GB "OEM Special" craptastic DDR4-2400 with a stunning green PCB - 500GB Dell M.2 NVMe SSD - Silverstone SF450 - ABS R206-ITX (worst/best case ever) - Wraith Spire

 

Banzai - i7-6700T - MSI RX 550 LP - Gigabyte GA-B150N Phoenix - 16GB HyperX Fury DDR4-2400 - 240GB Crucial M500 - Seasonic 300W Server PSU (loud af) - HP Slimline s3200n chassis - Rosewill RCX-775-LP (loud af)

 

Ok Boomer - Pentium G3258 - MSI GTX 750 Ti LP - ASUS H81M-C - 16GB Patriot Viper DDR3-1600 - Vaseky 64GB mSATA SSD - Corsair SF600 - Athenatech A100BB - Rosewill RCX-Z300 - Windows XP

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Posted · Original PosterOP
4 hours ago, Brooksie359 said:

Have they tried both sticks on their own? It could be that only one of the ram sticks is functional and the other is a dud. Try booting with just one of the sticks and then try booting with just the other stick to try and verify that both sticks of ram work fine on their own. 

Yes, they both work, i have tested them both.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
3 hours ago, aisle9 said:

You might want to do a little more research. If Windows opens in Safe Mode, it's probably a driver issue, because Safe Mode prevents most drivers from loading. Take the system back down to its original 8GB configuration, then go into Windows normally, go to Acer's support site, and update every single driver for your hardware through Acer--don't just let Windows Update pick and choose for you. Then reboot normally, make sure everything works right and shut the system down. Install the remaining 8GB of RAM and see what happens at 16.

 

If there's still instability and you're certain you updated with the right drivers, a BIOS issue might be causing it. BIOS updates are best served on a USB stick, and performed directly through BIOS. The BIOS itself doesn't care what OS you're running, but Acer's utility does if you go that route. Don't be tempted by the easier, riskier way. Place the updated BIOS (if there is one) onto a USB stick and do it through BIOS. There should be an OS option in the Acer site that says "none" or "BIOS", and the raw BIOS file (usually .cab, I think, and often part of a zip file from the OEM site) is what you're after.

 

What BIOS version are you on now? It's possible that a future version added support for 16GB of memory, or at least smoothed out support for it.

 

The biggest difference in terms of performance between an i5-3210M and something like an i5-6300U is power efficiency. The GT630M, while not capable of HD gaming outside of older or simpler titles, can still handle 480p gaming as a stand-in until something better can be found. And that's even assuming gaming is the goal. It's more than capable of HD video playback, either 768p on the laptop screen or 1080p if hooked to an external monitor.

Well, what Driver should I pick, when there are no Windows 10 Drivers? 7,8,8.1 ? Obviously I checked the Bios Version, it was 3.13 and the newest Version is from 2013 3.23. As with the bios, its the same with drivers. There are no Windows 10 Bios Updates Aviable.

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52 minutes ago, MrAeRoZz said:

Well, what Driver should I pick, when there are no Windows 10 Drivers? 7,8,8.1 ? Obviously I checked the Bios Version, it was 3.13 and the newest Version is from 2013 3.23. As with the bios, its the same with drivers. There are no Windows 10 Bios Updates Aviable.

Most of the time, the advice is to download the drivers for the most recent OS and use the compatibility assistant to install them. Again with the BIOS, there should be an option just to download the raw BIOS file without an installer. If there isn't, email Acer's support and ask for it.


Sabre - i7-8086K - MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X - AsRock Z370 Fatal1ty Gaming K6 - 32GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR4-2400 - 250GB Western Digital Black M.2 NVMe PCIe 3.0x4 - 1TB Inland Professional SSD - 960GB SanDisk Ultra II - 4TB Seagate Barracuda - Corsair RM650i - Fractal Design Meshify C White TG - Noctua NH-C14S

 

Senketsu - Ryzen 5 1600 - MSI GTX 1050 Ti LP - Gigabyte B450 AORUS M - 16GB "OEM Special" craptastic DDR4-2400 with a stunning green PCB - 500GB Dell M.2 NVMe SSD - Silverstone SF450 - ABS R206-ITX (worst/best case ever) - Wraith Spire

 

Banzai - i7-6700T - MSI RX 550 LP - Gigabyte GA-B150N Phoenix - 16GB HyperX Fury DDR4-2400 - 240GB Crucial M500 - Seasonic 300W Server PSU (loud af) - HP Slimline s3200n chassis - Rosewill RCX-775-LP (loud af)

 

Ok Boomer - Pentium G3258 - MSI GTX 750 Ti LP - ASUS H81M-C - 16GB Patriot Viper DDR3-1600 - Vaseky 64GB mSATA SSD - Corsair SF600 - Athenatech A100BB - Rosewill RCX-Z300 - Windows XP

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Posted · Original PosterOP
12 hours ago, aisle9 said:

Most of the time, the advice is to download the drivers for the most recent OS and use the compatibility assistant to install them. Again with the BIOS, there should be an option just to download the raw BIOS file without an installer. If there isn't, email Acer's support and ask for it.

No, there is literally no download for just the bios file. It is only Installer Exe's. If i get hold of his Laptop again, i will try running the 8.1 installer. I can also not locate any cab file whatsoever in the exe

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
19 hours ago, Skyforge said:

Could you give us a serial number or something about the laptop?

Did you not see the very first link?

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Posted · Original PosterOP
20 hours ago, Kenpachi1985 said:

To be honest - that laptop looks like it can handle Microsoft Word and struggles with anything else that is more demanding.

It has close to no benefits from upgrading since every part of it lacks performance by ANY means of today's games.

If he jsut needs it for old games and internet/office, keep it as it is. If he wants to do anything else with it - go for a new laptop.

Ofc, I would recommend the same thing, yet I am not the one to judge his decisions. He just said he needed more RAM

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2 hours ago, MrAeRoZz said:

Ofc, I would recommend the same thing, yet I am not the one to judge his decisions. He just said he needed more RAM

Then please tell him that he is plain wrong about that.

His CPU is abysmal (2 cores 4 threads is just not adequate in any way nowadays and those 2 cores don't even boost high), his GPU is utter trash - that laptop is made for Office stuff and maybe some solitaire. Anything gaming related newer then around 2012 is a stuttering mess, even on lowest details - except stuff like TF 2 and Rocket League which honestly would run on a smart toaster.


Old System:                                                                 Current System :

i7-3770k + Cooler Master Hyper 212                           i9 9900k + Noctua NH-D15

Gigabyte Z77M-D3H                                                    Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Master

Evga Geforce GTX 970 SC                                          GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER GAMING OC 

HyperX FURY Red 16GB 1600MHz DDR3                 G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200MHz DDR4 

bequiet PURE POWER 600W 80+ bronze                  Corsair RM 650x 80+ gold

Samsung 850 Evo 120 GB + 1TB HDD                       Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500GB 

                                                                                     Thermaltake Level 20 MT ARGB 

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