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  1. Running at Ryzen 5 2600 with Tomohawk max. The CPU debug led always lights up when I boot the pc after a long time (few hours). The system won't post and the leds on the back of the motherboard stay lit. But if I just turn off/on the power switch at the wall and start the pc, it works like normal. I also added the Rx5700xt back into the system a month ago. It was causing similar problems many months back so I moved to an old nvidia gpu and experienced no issues. But when I got the 5700xt back, had no issues for the most part, until this boot issue now. Been using the 5700xt again for about a month. So monsoons just arrived and I don't know if that has to do with anything. Is something about to break?
  2. Since its a Zen3 chip with just more cache should it not work with AM4?
  3. I am thinking of getting a r 5600x but have no clue which mobo to get, I've looked into it a tiny bit and I'm looking at getting the Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE V2 AM4 Motherboard, but I am wondering if there are any better options around its price point. It doesn't need to have Wi-Fi I would like a fair few USB 3.0 ports and 2.5 gig ethernet. RGB would be nice but its not a necessity I live in Australia so I go by AUD. Cheers, Elijah
  4. Motherboard Suggestions will be nice (£200 GBP aroundish can go higher if needed - planning on upgrading to 5000s in future) CPU:3700x Motherboard: MSI MPG x570 Gaming Edge Wifi (Known to run hot, got it for like £60 of a friend who never used it tho). Hello, today I was just playing some games while watching netlix and my computer suddenly black screens, I looked inside the computer case and noticed that on my motherboard in the EZ Debug LEDS that the CPU was lit meaning it isn't detecting or it is dead (something a long those lines). At first I thought it might of Overheated but normally there is a Blue screen for that (I think). I left it to cool down and tried it about 10 minutes later and still nothing, just the Red LED, then I started to think if the mobo is dead or the socket at least as all fans are moving, gpu fans are on, (also chipset fan). I moved my CPU to my second PC to see if it was the CPU or mobo and it worked fine on my 2nd pc. I went back my main put it back in (reset bios/cmos as well) and still nothing. Is this due to a dead Socket? or could it be something else? If it is the motherboard and it has died, any recommendations? I can spend around £200 (GBP)(can go a bit higher if needed) Any information will help, if I am wrong about something please say as learning about these problems are very interesting to me. Edit: Also the case power buttons do not work (power button and cold restart).
  5. I am looking to buy a motherboard with bifurcation function on it, anyone knows which mobos support that? I am looking for a server related build. Also i was looking for this expension card for my build but it says it is GEN 3. Will it work in GEN4 mode if i put it on Gen4 mobo with Gen4 NVMe?
  6. I was building my first PC and broke a few of my cpu pins and when I looked at my cpu socket I wasn't sure if it was damaged or not I already ordered a new cpu and I just wanted to know if I would need to replace my motherboard as well
  7. Hi anyone reading, I have a friend who bought a ryzen 3 1200 and bought a A520M S2H mobo and I tried putting it together for him and when I noticed it wouldn't post I found out that the motherboard doesn't support the CPU but I also did read online there is a way to get them to work but in an unorthodox way but I can't find any videos that goes through the whole process of getting it to work (if it will at all) and I was hoping someone on here will know what to do or know where to send me to get it working. They don't have any other CPUs or mobo and can't afford to get a new one and we tried to return the mobo to get one that does support the CPU but the store we bought it from won't refund us the money since we opened the box and tried installing a CPU on it. Any and all help is much appreciated.
  8. I've been considering an upgrade of my AIO for a little while now and I need some help making a decision. For some background, I have a 5600x that I want to mildly to moderately overclock. Nothing super crazy. I will be upgrading a case fan or two as well to keep the system as quiet and cool as possible. My Priorities for an AIO: Quiet - def at the top of the list. My corsair cooler was way too loud, regardless of fan curve. Cool - my corsair cooler was also a little hot running my 4790k, though I know the 4790k was a hotter chip. Warranty - it has to be good. No less than 3 years. I want to keep my cooler running as long as possible. Corsair has a 5 year warranty, the closer to 5 year I can get the less worried I'll be. RGB - the space around my cpu socket has been missing some lighting effects since I put the stock AM4 cooler on. A nice to have, but not a deal breaker. Here's where I'm at: Option 1) Keep what I have My H115i is on the older end of the spectrum; hit it's 5th bday not too long ago. I think it would be a good candidate for reuse, but I'm apprehensive. I was overlooking a 4790k that admittedly wasn't very stable and at idle ran pretty hot. The cooler is now out of warranty, it's not AM4 compatible currently, and the fans are loud as hell. Grabbing an AM4 bracket and some quieter fans would be good, but would also get me close to my new AIO price bracket ($90-$150 USD). Let's say the price for fans and a bracket isn't close to my new AIO price range, the fact that the cooler is out of warranty worries me. Am I overthinking here? Option 2) New 280MM AIO I've been looking at new coolers and I'm intrigued by the options, but I haven't seen enough data on some of these coolers to make a good/informed purchase decision. There's a LOT of data on the Arctic LFii 280 and I'm impressed by the results. However, the warranty concerns me. 1-2 year warranty isn't going to cut it for me personally. NZXT Kraken coolers have always been old reliable, but I'm not stoked to jump into CAM software again. Has it improved at all? Is the high(er) price tag worth it? The new BeQuiet Pure Loop coolers look interesting as well. Not stoked on the warranty length, but I could live with a 3 year warranty considering it's competitors and it's included fill port. My only concern is I haven't seen enough data to verify is performance platform to platform. EVGA CLC 280mm is the cheapest cooler and has the longest warranty of the options I've seen. I haven't seen enough data comparing it to the AIOs above. Can anyone attest to it's noise levels and cooling potential? Option 3) Go for air? My last option to consider is to go for an air cooler that with keep everything cool and quiet. As long as it can fit in a Phanteks P400s and doesn't get close to my $90-$150 price range for an AIO, I'm happy. Definitely a long post, but I wanted to included as much detail of my scenario as possible. The less questions other members have to ask, the quicker I get the answers I need. I appreciate the help ahead of time! Thanks, Aaron
  9. I just bought Colorful cvn b450 Gaming V14 and i cant get my ram at 3200mhz even it shows an option for it in bios. instead it goes maximum at 2933mhz and when i try to go above than 2933mhz, it shows Blue Screen Of Death. Specs: ryzen 5 2600 Colorful cvn b450 Gaming V14 Gskill Aegis 8gb 3200mhz 1 stick giabyte gtx 1650 super ThermalTake 550 watt 80+Gold This is my first Pc and im completely noob at this. Please guide me what can i do? Thanks
  10. Hi, out of these two boards the latter is on sale, and currently goes for ~2/3 of the X570 Unify. I was planning on buying the UNIFY, but since the only significant feature difference is the PCIE 4.0 chipset link (which I don't need) I'm tempted to go for the cheaper option. The mobo will go to support my workstation - R9 5900X + 2 GPUs. Am I missing anything or is it really good deal?
  11. Hey all. Just tried to install my BRAND NEW AMD Ryzen 9 5900X CPU (100% NO BENT PINS) into an Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming motherboard (BRAND NEW, SOCKET LOOKED CLEAN). Let me just say this is not my first time installing AMD CPU's. What my installation procedure looked like: grounded myself lifted retention arm FULLY inspected socket inspected CPU pins matched the golden triangles carefully "dropped" the CPU into the socket (NO FORCE) lowered the retention arm FULLY (it required NO FORCE, as usual) The CPU effortlessly dropped into the socket, but I noticed it did not sit flush at one corner, with the retention arm up (just inserted) OR down (fully installed). NOTE: THE FIRST IMAGE PROVIDED IS NOT MINE, AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR REFERENCE: Now I didn't take a picture of the issue for the first time, but this image should give you a rough idea of how it looked. Please keep in mind IT WAS NOT THIS BAD, but when checking if the CPU was seated correctly, I COULD actually see a bit of a reflection from the golden pins in the same corner as depicted in the picture bellow - basically the CPU was lifting at one corner, which is not normal. I then proceeded to lift the retention arm fully, thus releasing the CPU. I carefully took it out, inspected the pins (NO BENT PINS IN ALL CASES) and tried to continue with the installation two more times. Yes, the socket lever was all the way up before inserting the CPU. In all of the cases the CPU never sat flush with the socket at the same corner. Because I then became quite disappointed and frustrated with the progress of the build, I decided to just very lightly hold the CPU down on opposite corners, while lowering the retention arm. Let me say I realise that this should not be done (I know it's a ZIF socket), however this is the only solution that seemed to have worked. THE IMAGES BELLOW SHOW THE ACTUAL STATUS OF THE COMPONENTS DESCRIBED IN THIS POST DURING MY LAST ATTEMPT: It is a bit hard to see, but the right corner is still slightly lifted, just not as much as before... Again - before I could actually see just a tiny bit of the gold, from the pins. What am I missing? I'd truly appreciate your help.. Thank you all for taking your time!
  12. Recently I have decided that I need an upgrade. I'm currently running an i5 2400 with an OEM 1155 board. My CPU is no longer powerful enough for what I need to do with my PC as what I'm doing requires a high core count, and recently I've had this problem where the CPU fan just decides to stop spinning and it lets my CPU heat up to 100C while I'm putting it under load. I'm not able to configure the fan curve in the bios, as the bios for this motherboard is very simple because I slowly ripped out every part of a prebuilt Lenovo system while upgrading. SO i've been thinking of having 2 possible upgrade paths, and since I already have an AM3+ cooler on hand I thought to either go for an FX chip like the FX-8320 and an AM3+ motherboard since FX CPUs are relatively cheap and have high core counts, or go for a second hand 1st gen ryzen with AM4 board. I don't want to spend more than £100 on this upgraden at most, which is why I want to know if my AM3+ cooler can fit. It's the stock CPU cooler for the FX-8350 chip, and I don't want to have to spend extra on a new bracket for my current cooler, or to buy a new cooler outright.
  13. Hi, first post here, I am having trouble with my newly refreshed PC. Been together for the best part of nearly 2 weeks and today the rear USB 2.0 ports decided they weren't going to work today, all other ports (UBB 3.0 / 3.1 / 3.2 / Type C) all work as expected, as do the front IO on the case. Only thing recently done since the upgrade was a reinstall of windows. ANY help or direction would be greatly appreciated, if it turns out to be a faulty MoBo the quicker I get it diagnosed the sooner I can get it replaced. Thanks again! Build: Gigabyte Aorus B550 Pro-p (New) Ryzen 5600x (New) Gtx 1070 600w PSU Win 10. *Edit* Bios and all driver/Chipset updates from aorus website have been installed at time of upgrade.
  14. Hi all, I recently completed my first ever build (yay!). I am running a Ryzen 5 2600x on an asrock b450 steel legend am4 motherboard. I installed 16gb of corsair vegence 3600mhz ram, however in task manager the ram is rated as running at 2667mhz. I have entered the bios and set the XMP profile along with selected the correct memory speed however it is still not showing correctly. I have updated to the latest BIOS and still no joy. Am I doing something wrong or do I need to manually oc the ram in order for it to work? I know the ram is Ryzen compatible as it is branded as so on the box. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Happy holidays folks
  15. Hello there, i believe there might be something wrong with my memory speed... HWinfo: ASRock B450M-HDV, AMD Ryzen 5 2600X, G Skill F4-3200C16-8GVKB x2 The system is older already, but I configured it back then to run the actual 2933mHz memory speed that Zen+ supports, yet it doesnt appear to do so. I have enable XMP 2.0 in the bios and set the frequency to 2933mHz but the actual speed my pc is reporting to me is only 1463 mHz.... The motherboard should be able to handle up tp 3200mHz and specifically 2933 on these ram sticks. Now the website for the motherbaord also mentioned that OC might be needed for some sticks and some frequencies, but im not sure what im supposed to do with that information... Do i have to overclock them somehow to get the 2933mHz or is the frequency just a problem of the motherboard?
  16. Should i get a Msi mag x570 tomahawk or a b550 around the same price point. Ive been really stressed out about picking a pcie 4 or a pcie 3 gpu slot
  17. Budget (including currency): Sub $250 if possible, USD Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: FreeNAS\TrueNAS? unRAID? Some Linux distro? Something like that. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): So the odds seem good that a prebuilt NAS would be more power efficient and easier to work with but I want something I can mess around with and change if I feel like it. I basically want something I can use as my own cloud storage, and to stream via Plex or Emby. Maybe back up my actual desktop to. I have an old PSU, case, Keyboard & Mouse, AM4 compatible air cooler, etc. So my cost is just in the core components here. I was thinking an Asus Prime B450M or Prime A520M? They seem reasonable for the low price. I'm mostly just wondering what the cheapest APU would be that would boot in either. Maybe Ill have to stick in a graphics card but if I can I would rather avoid it considering what it's going to be for. Might help with transcode for plex? Also 8-16Gb of cheap ram. Seems like a lot but apparently if I use ZFS, min requirement is 8Gb. So I was considering something like an Athalon 3000G or 200/220G. Would these work? I am ok with used parts, ebay, whatever. The problem is even these low end processors that retailed for $50 are $120+ now. Any recommendations of what would work well for this? This isn't a system that's going to get hit hard. Two users streaming at once max, I have two 4tb WD red hard drives and various other old drives I may shove in there.
  18. Hey guys! I'll be building a new Ryzen rig soon (waiting on GPU, like everyone else). For this build, I'll have to flash the bios (got an MSI B550 Gaming Edge Wifi board) in order for my 5600x to function. I'm fairly confident I know how to do this process (but hell, any pointers would be nice). My only question is after I flash the BIOS, when and how do I safely disconnect the power from the motherboard in order to continue assembling the computer? Thanks! Sorry if I chose the wrong forum, not sure where else to put this question.
  19. TL:DR I think my AM4 CPU socket might be broken. Please check the attachments to see pictures and a short video, and let me know if you think this is normal behavior for these sockets, or if you think it's broken. I've been helping a friend of mine build a PC. Last night we got it all together, but it wouldn't POST. Long story short and many hours of troubleshooting later, I ended up taking it all apart today down to the barebones. Motherboard, CPU, 1 stick of RAM, PSU plugged in with just the 24Pin and both CPU power cables for good measure, nothing else is plugged in. When I power on the PC, I don't get anything displayed on the screen. Doesn't POST or get to the BIOS. All I get is a diagnostic light on the side of the board labelled "CPU", and it means exactly what you'd think it means (Motherboard manual says the code means CPU is not detected.) If I plug an HDMI into the motherboard it goes to the "VGA" light instead, and the manual says this means a CPU device isn't detected. Since it's onboard graphics, that'd essentially mean the same thing as the CPU code in this case. I decided to try and take out the CPU and check for bent pins or any damage to the socket. When I went to lift the CPU retention arm, I noticed it felt "stuck" about 90% of the way up, and the CPU wasn't moving at all like they usually do when you lift the arm. Normally you lift the arm, and the CPU slowly moves / follows in the direction of the arm as the plastic socket slides backwards with it, but the socket in my motherboard doesn't move nearly at all when I do this. Once I get 90% of the way up, the retention arm requires a large amount of force to move further, and then it eventually lurches with a very loud POP noise. I've attached a video showing this. Worrying the socket had somehow damaged the CPU, I removed it and checked for bent pins but luckily found none. This popping didn't damage the CPU at all, so I put it back in and very gently lowered the arm. Going down, the arm requires noticeably less force than other AM4 sockets I've installed CPUs into in the past, and it makes another strange (quieter) scratching noise while lowered. I also noticed that the socket doesn't seem to close all the way. If you check the pictures I've attached, I highlight what the socket looks like both open and closed, with a CPU installed and without. You can see the socket seems to move downwards and close completely with no CPU installed, but with one installed the socket doesn't seem to close all the way and there is a noticeable lip of plastic hanging out that is usually covered when the socket is closed without a CPU. I've also attached a picture "Closed Difference.png" that shows this lip more clearly. I've tried taking the CPU out and putting it back in upwards of 15 times now, each time trying to gently push the plastic socket in different directions with my finger, thinking the issue is the CPU pins aren't making contact with the pads under the socket cover. Each time I get the same issue, where it doesn't POST and the red CPU (sometimes VGA when an HDMI is plugged in) light turns on the board. I've also left the PC powered on for up to 10 minutes with the heatsink on it, then quickly powered down and removed the heatsink. It's basically stone cold, as if the CPU wasn't kicking out any heat at all because it's not powered. I'm hoping someone else who has an AM4 board can lend their insight here and let me know if they have the same experience with this socket, or if after all these hours of troubleshooting I'm just going crazy and seeing problems where there are none and my issue actually lies somewhere else. For the sake of following the posting rules, I'll post the specs and troubleshooting steps I've followed below. Any input at all would be appreciated. Thank you! SPECS: CPU: Ryzen 7 3800X RAM: 32GB GSkill Ripjaws V DDR4 3200MHz Mobo: MSI MPG AM4 x570 GAMING PLUS PSU: Corsair RM750x GPU: None (yet) Troubleshooting: - Unplugged / replugged all power cables from both motherboard and PSU side - Tried swapping to a spare PSU, and obviously used the proper cables for the different PSU - Tried spare RAM (1 stick DDR4) and also tried ALL sticks in ALL DIMM slots - Plugged in discrete GPU to bypass any potential onboard graphics issues. Same result. - Removed everything from the case, and unplugged anything unnecessary to reach POST. Only thing plugged in was motherboard, CPU, 1 stick RAM, 24PIN ATX and the CPU power cables. Same result, no POST. - Checked CPU for bent / broken pins - Used flashlight to check socket pads for damage, I can see gold in each hole. - Checked board for signs of damage (leaking / expanded caps, residue, etc) looks clean and new. 1452813811_BrokenSocket.mp4
  20. Hello there, I'm planning out a new PC build and I'm having trouble finding a suitable MOBO, mainly because I want it to serve 2 main goals: I want to start overclocking (not hardcore LN2 magic, just whatever 360 AIO could handle) with R7 5800X I want to be able to convert it into workstation backbone when I upgrade my main PC/the need comes. That includes a need for multiple GPUs connected directly to the CPU Given (1) I need something with somewhat friendly BIOS, memory overclocking and decent VRM to be able to handle power needs of the 5800X (which should hopefully be enough to handle stock 3950/5950X once I transition into a workstation). Given (2) I want to be able to run two GPUs directly off the CPU (no SLI/Crossfire, just 2 independent devices), so I want the 16xPCIe to be reconfigurable to 2*8x. I'm not sure if I'll be able to saturate 8xPCIe 3.0 with my workload (Machine Learning), but to be cautious I'd probably go for 4.0. Must haves (minimum): post LEDs non-addressable RGB controller - I'd like to splash some colors here and there (at least) one slot for M.2 NVMe drive - more is not strictly necessary Nice to haves: 2x1 G LAN or better Postcode on board WiFi (directly screwed-in antena(s), no cables) Obviously: the cheaper the better Thanks in advance. PS: I was eyeing x570 Tomahawk, but it only has one CPU connected PCIe slot
  21. So in my country they retail about same price, I know that b550 offers higher rams speeds and pcie4 but steel legend looks fancier and has more ports. Which one to choose? are there any more other differences?
  22. Is there any performance best cpu water block for am4 which can hold - 30C° ?
  23. Im looking for a good budget under $150usd micro atx B450 board with on board wifi, I'll be running an R7 2700X. Does anyone have any suggestions to look at?
  24. Hello & thanks for stopping by, Im currently on i7-2600k from 2011 with a gtx 1060 using a SATA SSD for OS and HDD for storage. As you can see I hold onto my hardware to get the most value from it. I really want to get larger/high res monitor and larger SSDs for new game storage. This system wont handle the high resolution & I dont want to put money in a old system when it could go towards a new setup. Im ready to take the dive and upgrade to AMD5950x and RTX3080/Navi 21. However, this is the end of the AM4 socket. So there will be no upgrade path to the next gen cpu after the 5950x. Im not sure when AM5 will come out but should I just wait (hopefully just 1 year) for that or go with the 5950x?
  25. I'm looking for an mITX AM4 board that's not too expensive. Under 250 CAD for sure, preferably under 175 CAD. I will not overclock. I'd prefer having USB-C and wifi but those aren't necessary. At least 1 4 pin RGB and 1 3 pin ARGB headers for sure. Colour doesn't really matter, just not green or red.
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