sdw123

Only option would be to contact Facebook/Meta and go through there support. Anything else could potentially be invalid to malicious, especially 3rd party recovery services. 

Use whatever format also encrypts the file names. If you split contents in volumes, try to avoid standard "piracy" sizes like 50,000,000 bytes , 100,000,000 bytes etc 
 
7zip has relatively strong encryption and can also encrypt the filenames and metadata. Older Winrar and Winzip versions use weaker encryption algorithms, in the newer versions if you chose to create archives of the newer rar format or zip format, then you have quite high encryption.

Windows can't mount most linux filesystems, so yeah that'd be normal. Just wipe it either in windows with diskpart or disk management, or whatever else.

does you disk not show up if you do:
- partprobe
- lsblk
 
if you get the disk to show up you can do:
- wipefs -af /dev/daXXX
 
BE VERY CAREFULL, this command wipes the disk completely and you WILL brick your OS if you pick the wrong disk

Yes

Try opening Disk Management in Windows, maybe post a screenshot of what you see there. It should be able to see the whole disk, regardless of the partitions on it.

Maybe diskpart could help wipe it within windows? It is an included command line utility. After starting it:
 
list disk
- find the disk you want to wipe and note the number of it
 
select disk <number>
list disk
- make absolutely sure you have the correct disk number selected
 
clean
- this will immediately wipe the selected disk without any further warning or confirmation! Make absolutely sure before you use it.
 
After that you can re-initialise it in disk manager and should be able to create new partitions on it. Unless there's a different problem. This cleaning method doesn't care for what data is on the disk already and gives you a logically empty disk.

Which software did you use and which options did you select? I assume you selected an incorrect option or made a typo when you specified its size.
 
You should be able to recover it by partitioning it again, using correct settings.

I use AOMEI to back up my main boot SSD and my second SSD every day to another HDD. I really like it. I have it set up so it does an entire backup of the drives every 7th day, and each day inbetween it will only back up what's changed for that day
 
My only gripe with it is that if you have the free version you have to delete old backups manually. It will just keep making new ones until your backup drive is full
 
Will keep an eye on this thread though, If there's something better out there I'd like to check it out

Macrium Reflect

veeam has a free version that works pretty well.

You'll likely be interested in OVR Toolkit as well, lets you actually arrange multiple separate windows in space and make a full VR workspace instead of just flat displays

Oh, sure. Either via the built in Link menu or with a 3rd party app like Virtual Desktop. 

Ah, ok lemme try to parse what you're asking here.
 
If what you mean is does the internal storage matter if you intend to play PC games through Link, then no, it doesn't matter.  The popular Link cables you can get on Amazon work well, don't buy the official one, its a ripoff. I bought this for $22. Its more than sufficient for any game.  Forza btw doesn't support VR.  See above.

There are scaling options in both nVidia and AMD drivers - Center.
Not all games support the scaling to center, but worth a try. Also probably have to change in-game options to 1080p also.

You have to have a great peripheral vision for sitting near 32" imo. 
I'm not a pro gamer, but I'd use 24-27" monitor or push the 32" monitor a bit farther.

Did you re-adjust your mouse sensitivity? I don't know for sure how OW works, but some games calculate the mouse movement with the resolution. So if you change resolutions and nothing else, your aim will be off. Try using some online sensitivity calculators to see if you can correct it.

Around your price range the Gigabyte M34WQ is a much better option. 2 year old IPS monitors are significantly slower than current ones.

If Gigabyte still follow the Gaming X being the value overclocker motherboard, it could be worthwhile. Weigh what you can buy with that 50$.

Gaming X line has always been great value for money. Don't think you can go wrong with it unless the TUF has extra features you'll need.

Sycthe fuma 2. Solid, cheap, works no problem and is silent.

My 12600K set all core 4.8Ghz  @ 1.175Hz  (No manual LLC) consumes max 187W  according to OCCT 

People lost their goddamn minds about 10900k power consumption. I guarantee the vast majority of them are just gamers and/or at least not power users. The difference between a 200w full power or 300w full power chip is meaningless since most of them are never going to utilize their chips at full power outside of a benchmark. And for that once a week encoding task, it still won't counter the wasted idle power usage from the alternative AMD chip.
 
From personal experience on an OC 10900KF, CPU power draw is a non-issue. Especially with GPUs that are readily willing to gulp down 450+w.
 
But don't get me wrong, none of those figures really matter to anyone in real life. It's one of the weakest arguments I've seen in relation to CPU selection. 

Think back. When was the last time the difference in CPU power draw really affected any decision or outcome of a build project or a system task? And when you factor in idle power usage, the running costs are a wash. It's just academic.
 
Power consumption is either at the TOP of your list of things that's important (render farms, etc.) or it's at the bottom and meaningless. Since most people don't fit into the first category, I think it's overemphasized as a meaningful metric.

Techpowerup usually has pretty charts that are easy to read : https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-12600k-alder-lake-12th-gen/20.html
 
The values are for WHOLE SYSTEM ... but you can easily estimate how much a CPU would consume on its own by subtracting  idle power from the heavy load power consumption, and adding a small amount, around 10-20 watts.
 
For example, idle power of a Ryzen 5600x system is 50 watts and multi-threaded power consumption is 126 watts ... so you can estimate 126 - 50 + ~ 10-20w = ~ 75-85w
 
Anandtech also has a BENCH section where they list the power consumption on JUST THE CPU and also conditions and details if needed : https://www.anandtech.com/bench/CPU-2020/2734
You see there they measured 75w for 5600x.
 
They recently reviewed 12900k but didn't add it to that list yet... you can see how much cpu cores consume and you can estimate out how much a 12600k consumes from that - 12600 has 6 performance cores : https://www.anandtech.com/show/17047/the-intel-12th-gen-core-i912900k-review-hybrid-performance-brings-hybrid-complexity/4
 

Then its just a bad way to review something.
It might be something good is combination with a cpu by itself power draw graph, but it puts too much on the power draw of other componets that may differ from intel to amd (like motherboard), and it pust more points of uncertanty, where inconsistencies in gpu, motherboard, drive, ram, and everything else.