EntosBox

The cm storm quickfire tk with mx browns is great, I got it for only 85 euros and it has backlight

It interrupts the CPU, it's kinda hard to explain.
 
Anyhow for the recommendations:
1- For something minimalist and affordable: Logitech G710+, Cooler Master Quickfire and all the Ducky keyboards.
2- For something with great lighting: K70/K65 RGB
3- For something in between: K70 non RGB.
 

360p is too hard to drive with my Titan Z. I would stick with 144p or 240p for sure.

144p is nice too, but I'm thinking to go more or so 240p.

that wasn't a typo...
 
Pretty sure I meant 144p

I hear the 

Shure VP83 LensHopper with no Flash is a good option i hear.

I haven't used an but i'd avoid built in camera pre amp if possible.

1. Try buying a pre-built one then from some retailers. Don't know any in the US (Assuming you're from there), but in Canada I know NCIX, Canada Computers and I believe Tiger Direct (though they are normally more expensive) make builds. I believe they also come with warranties
 
2. Pick reputable parts for your build that are new, and have warranty. Then just return and request a new one if its broken. I was able to get parts from Corsair in replacement for my damaged ones easily, just by sending the infos.
 
 
Plus, I completely agree with this guy. People are judgmental on first glance. Then you realize how simple it is later on. I understand where the worry comes from, and if I had a kid asking for a butt ton of money for a weird machine that possibly wouldn't work, I would walk the same route at first. Just try reasoning. You can also ask for $400 and say you have no interest in the PS4 and you will just save it for future use.
 
All else fails, take the PS4, and save up. Get both slowly but surely

1. Try buying a pre-built one then from some retailers. Don't know any in the US (Assuming you're from there), but in Canada I know NCIX, Canada Computers and I believe Tiger Direct (though they are normally more expensive) make builds. I believe they also come with warranties
 
2. Pick reputable parts for your build that are new, and have warranty. Then just return and request a new one if its broken. I was able to get parts from Corsair in replacement for my damaged ones easily, just by sending the infos.
 
 
Plus, I completely agree with this guy. People are judgmental on first glance. Then you realize how simple it is later on. I understand where the worry comes from, and if I had a kid asking for a butt ton of money for a weird machine that possibly wouldn't work, I would walk the same route at first. Just try reasoning. You can also ask for $400 and say you have no interest in the PS4 and you will just save it for future use.
 
All else fails, take the PS4, and save up. Get both slowly but surely

I'm not saying your parents aren't great at what they do. but it is a stupid thing to not want to buy one thing and be willing to buy the inferior. If they informed themselves they would change their mind, it has nothing to do with their parenting, it has to do with misinformation. My parents are amazing as well but my father also never wanted to buy me anything pc related and was totally against me picking the path I chose in the beginning until he came to accept it and understand more of what it is.

I did miss this, my bad. It's a custom part with no price at the bottom of the list. A 1TB SSD that no ones ever heard of seems sketchy.
 
You should absolutely do what you think is best for you, but when people with more knowledge and who actually own these parts tell you something is better, you should do the research into seeing if they are right or not. Right now you could get this 3000$ pc for 2000$ by picking better quality items that arent overpriced, or if price doesn't matter like you say and you're bent on spending that much, stick with the 3000$ and get something that's 30-40% better than what you have picked now.
 
A 1500W PSU is going to make your PC crap itself. Estimated wattage is 500W and you're feeding it 3x that much. You could easily knock off 200$ and get a 1000W PSU to optimize. 32GB of ram accomplishes nothing. I don't think ive ever even heard of a pc using that much ram. 16GB is still considered overkill in most applications. That's another 150$ wasted. You have a mobo that is highly optimized for HIGH overclocking and fine tweaking, and a cpu cooler that can't possibly handle the heat your overclock would output. It has 4 pci express slots and you only use 2. You could get a z97 mobo rather than the z87 you chose and it would cost 100$ less. You can get windows 8.1 on g2a.com for about $22 rather than the $150. Im not sure myself on the differences between professional and home but from what ive seen there are little to none, so for a home desktop it isnt worth the money. If you're spending 500$ on a 1TB SSD then it might not be worth paying 100% more for a 30% increase in speed on your mechanical HD. Are you sure you will use 2TB of space? Will what you're storing on the 1TB SSD actually benefit from being on a SSD or did you just pick the largest size? You could easily save another $100 by upping the mechanical to 2TB, lowering the SSD to 500GB or 250GB. All that saved money could be used to get a 2nd GPU which would make a much larger difference, or a liquid cooler like the h100i. If this really is a gaming and video rendering pc, that's where youll find tangible differences in performance, not extra ram and giant hard drives.  
It's like going to a car dealership and getting the option between a $20k hummer and a $100k ferrari, but you want the hummer for $100k since you're willing to spend that much and it serves your needs. Do what you want, but if you tell any car enthusiast about your purchase they're going to call you out.
 
That being said, enjoy the build. Like I said, all opinions with a grain of salt and no offense towards your decisions.

Yeah I have a fix; ignore it

I agree with this build. I'd go for the AMD build if you want some better all around performance, but for a pure editing rig, the Intel build is to way to go.
On the side note, however, you should be able to choose what monitor, headphones and other peripherals yourself (recommendations welcome), as they're more or so pure personal preference (imo). 

I picked you 1200p (16:10) IPS monitor because it is better for work compared to 1080p (16:9). But it is personal preference. 1080p are cheaper and it allows you to add better GPU for example. Also I picked you Headphones I have because I am really happy with them but that is also personal preference (They are really good, just look at some reviews here on LTT forum). So feel free to pick whatever suits you best in that price range and you will be fine.

AMD Build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nz4cGX $1237,68
OS https://www.g2a.com/windows-8-professional-32-64-bit-cd-key-global.html $18,56
TOTAL $1256,24
 
Working on Intel build now. I will edit it in here.
 
EDIT
 
INTEL Build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CzQrRB $1344,67
OS https://www.g2a.com/windows-8-professional-32-64-bit-cd-key-global.html $18,56
TOTAL $1363,23
 
I dont work in Sony Vegas Pro but I found that it can use OpenCL and also Open CUDA acceleration. In AMD build you can get more performance from GPU with not so great CPU and in intel build you got very good CPU but less performance with GPU.

I hope it's a troll, otherwise I sincerely hope he brings this over to the build/planning subforum and gets some advice, cause this is 1000$ over valued and missing some significant optimization.

Well all I can do is recommend not force. But why the mismatch colors for the RAM and Mobo?

This would be better alot better @CraftyMiner88
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant   CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($364.98 @ Newegg Canada)  CPU Cooler: Swiftech H320 55.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($150.00)  Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($194.98 @ Newegg Canada)  Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory  ($176.94 @ DirectCanada)  Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($479.00 @ Canada Computers)  Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($105.98 @ Newegg Canada)  Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Dual Classified ACX Video Card (2-Way SLI)  ($599.98 @ Amazon Canada)  Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Dual Classified ACX Video Card (2-Way SLI)  ($599.98 @ Amazon Canada)  Case: Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo Aluminum ATX Full Tower Case  ($249.88 @ Canada Computers)  Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($164.98 @ Amazon Canada)  Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer  ($74.99 @ Canada Computers)  Other: Windows 8.1 Pro ($17.00) Other: 14x Be Quiet! Pure Wings 2 120MM ($112.00) Total: $3270.69 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-29 00:17 EDT-0400

Please don't get that build. I am going to cry myself to sleep if you buy that build. I will make you one in a second.

Ah okay.
My hand is rather big, so the buttons may be a deal depending if I see the G600 in person. Also, when I used the Naga 2014, I could feel where the ring finger click (3rd click, as you say), would be on the G600 and how I imagine using it. It doesn't seem as much as a problem for accidental pressing, but it may be when I get my hands on it (especially due to me being used to ambidextrous mice). Thanks for the input anyways

You are correct, the buttons on the G600 are slightly bigger once you put them side by side, but I don't think the difference is that big, at least for me.
The buttons on the Naga 2014 are like "mx browns" but on a mouse, they have that same clicky little noise and pleasant press. The G600 buttons also feel like clicky switches but they are a bit less mushy. both mouses have the buttons on the correct shape and positions.
The main difference is the 3rd finger button the G600 has, it's a another type of keybind you can have, it's soft when you press it, like the left and right (should I say middle) mouse buttons. The problem I had with the extra 'click' was that I was pressing it by accident a couple of times when I had to use the left side buttons consecutively; having to press them with my thumb pushed the mouse to the right side, where the extra click is. Once you get used to the mouse and after it softens up a bit, you will not accidentally press the extra click as much, and I ended up having good control of it when I wanted to press it.
My G600 had an accident and is not with me anymore, so I'm using my older 2012 Naga, that is still kicking butts. My brother has the Naga 2014.

Your welcome.  

Yeah, it shows features that beat out the G600 over the older Naga. But the newer Naga's shape and buttons is it's only persuasion point at the moment. Thanks though !

The problem with Newegg is the sales tax and shipping costs afterwards (in pic is a new x61 at $149.99):
 

 
Bringing the total to £126.
 
The x41 looks a very compelling option and I think I will try and get that when it becomes more widely available in the UK. Scan are allowing pre-orders at £80.

SOME OF THE FONTS I USE.
 

Okay, thanks! I'm assuming OCing GPUs increases heat the same way OCing a CPU increases heat.