07_Sev

Don't get too excited, I'm just your everyday nobody with a handful of ugly diy game controllers I am hoping to get some people to try out. 
 
The game controller is specific in it's design, and specifically I have a particular use case I'm interested in finding people to try out. 
The idea is that you can use the 4 joysticks to control 6 axis manual thrust space games. (none of that "automatic thrust" allowed). The perfect example is Simulation Mode in the game Orbital Racer. There's no shooting, but there's nothing but navigation all day. It's true, the better place to get started is NOT a race, and I wish there were a game that had some tighter navigation for low speed, but overall Orbital Racer is the most checkboxes. (a sort of space-taxi could be better, if it flew like Orbital Racer, but you had to go through tight courses to reach checkpoints instead of laps around a high speed track). 
 
What I'm looking to do, is send someone the game controller. I have a few ready, and ordered parts for a handful more. You can keep the controller, and additionally I will gift Orbital Racer on steam (we will add friends). So there is legitimately zero cost to the recipient. I want some good faith that you take the controller seriously, and that's about it. If we can have some conversations and I can feel you are genuinely interested in the game style and the controller, and you can agree to talk about it after you've practiced it for a while (not for others, I'm not trying to sell them, you would just talk to me privately, and I would only mention any comments you make in a passive "someone told me" kind of way). Unfortunately the controllers are using cheap joysticks, but they aren't THAT bad. 
 
If you just want to build your own,, I do have a project page but my instructions aren't very good,, but the project is pretty self explanatory. If you do build one,, I would LOVE to hear about it.  https://hackaday.io/project/180884-4-joystick-6-axis-6-dof-game-controller
 
Here's some comments i have to make. "realistic thrust physics" manual thrust games simply are not part of console gaming, and in honesty they are hardly a part of pc gaming. The game selection is pretty slim, generally being limited to games that take a lot of time to play like a space trading game, and then generally hardcore navigation isn't a part of the gameplay. In Orbital Racer it IS a part of the gameplay, and in simulation mode with "float" turned on,, you get exactly the experience I am talking about. 
 
If players could simply use a game controller, I think the general interest in the game style would be much higher overall, but when presented with a manual thrust game, players are presented with controls that are difficult to interact with, and generally there are NO control interfaces that are presented that prospective players would just think, "oh,, that's really easy and logical". I do like the space mouse, and will never argue against it. I also feel that the recent attempts at 6axis joysticks will result in a good standardized product, but gamepads stand alone for many gamers and styles of gaming. If you get one in your hands, and you use my configuration, I feel you will find that using my 4 joystick controller is very intuitive, just as easy as a normal gamepad, and you will learn to play a game like Orbital Racer in overall an amount of time you can agree is fair to allow for a fun game. 
 
If you are interested, reply here, and send me a message. I don't know what sort of conversation it would take for me to be ready to send one out, but the cost to you would be nothing more than some time and responsiveness. 
 
I would love to talk about it more,, this is a serious inquiry,, if a mod wants to place it elsewhere that's ok , but I'm not selling or trading anything so I didn't really feel it was a classified in that sense. (if I was trying to move a cpu, maybe then,,,)
 
 

Hello everyone,
 
This isn't as much of a review of a single product but a long term review of msi products as a whole. I've been using MSI products since my first build about 6 years ago. I was very happy with their motherboard, their laptop and their graphics cards. However, after a couple of years of use, with proper maintenance, the products start to fall appart. First, my dad's laptop desktop replacement, which cost about 2000 euros with tax (about 2000$ excluding tax), it's screen began to fail by phisicaly seperating from the laptop. Now the only thing holding that thing together is lots of tape.
 
Now, my desktop motherboard has failed me after only 6 years of use. their capacitors began to leak ruining the cpu performance and requiring me to replace my motherboard, memory and cpu. These problems are a sign of cost cutting on components. In the case of the laptop by not using the correct material or materialthickness in order to securely hold the screen. With the motherboard the choice was made to use less durable capacitors which start to leak after only 6 years. I've designed electronics which should hold out in way rougher environments while being powered and used for at least 12 hours a day, 7 days of the week. It doesn't cost that much more to get decent capacitors.
 
I know people think I've used my pc for a long enough time when I use it for 6 years. But I usually use a pc for 8 to 10 years before I have to replace it, not because it broke but only because it was outdated. I have consoles with CRT's with an age of 38 and they still work fine without performance degradation. I expect non moving parts to practically work forever. I certainly won't be buying any MSI products any time soon.

933MHz is correct. 
DDR = Double Data Rate
933x2=1866MT/s

They are reporting the correct speeds. 'DDR' stands for Double Data Rate, so it runs at 2 clocks per cycle (or something like that, I don't know the exacts), which effectively doubles the actual speed.

That's the actual correct speed.
Long story short, you RAM runs at 933MHz, which is basically 'ticks per seconds'. Per tick it can transfer two things, meaning it's 1866MT/s (million transfers per second). Manufacturers market MT/s as Mhz (thus the 1866Mhz memory), but it's actually running at 933Mhz. Task Manager and CPU-Z show the correct speed.

DISCLAIMER:
The succes of this tutorial will vary hugely from situation to situation. You might get less of a deal than I did, you might get more. It is certainly worth trying though. Even if you don't come out with as much success as me, it's probaly still a win for you.
 
The problem:
Internet is expensive, especially if you want a reliable and fast connection. ISPs don't hesetate to make a huge profit on their bandwith. Especially in the states where internet networks are almost entirely monopolised. In these difficult times we could all use less fixed charges each month, though this tutorial will work pretty much any time.
 
The solution:
To some this might be real obvious and some have probaly already done this but for a lot of folks this is new news. Call your ISP and tell them you want to switch over to a new one, or just buy a new plan and let your new provider cancel your old plan. Be prepaired to actually do it though with it as this might be the case. Do some research and look into alternatives in your area, there might be more than you think. In the states finding alternatives might be quite hard, if you can't find any competitors than unfortunatly this tutorial will come to an end here for you. Perhaps you could make a difference and set up your own network.
 
Once your ISP has been contacted, either by you or your potential next IPS, your current ISP will call you or put you through to a customer retention representative. At this stage, whatever you do, be nice! These people get enough flak thrown their way. Make sure they like talking to you, this will give them more insentive to genuanly help you. Tell them you want to switch because of prefirebally pricing or if thats not an option some other issue. They will than probaly give you a non-advertised offer. If they don't remeber to BE NICE. Usually their first offer isn't the best offer they can do so be hasitant. Perhaps you want to think about it a little longer. Perhaps their compatitor is still cheaper. They usually give you a second, better offer. This is where I usually bite. They might give you a 3rd offer but I always take the 2nd.
 
My results:
My original situation was that I paid 60+ Euros for 200MB/s down reliable internet. I state reliable because that is the main selling point of the ISP I connect to, and boy, do they deliver. My first time when they tried to increasy my monthly pricy by about 2 euros, I used this tactic and it got me a monthly discount of 10 euro's per month for an entire year, after which I could cancel again. So when my price shot back up to 62 euros, I decided to cancel again. This time, I saved 10 euros a month by downgrading my internet package since I have an internal bottlenack which caps me at 100MB/s. Aditionally they offered me a discount of 15 euros a month for 10 months if I sayed for another year. This would avarage out to 12.50 euros a month, or 150 euros a year.
 
Other sources:
 
This guy makes great videos btw and wears LTT merch. Can Linus hire him already? He would be a great second Luke. Unfortunatly he's been quiet for a very long time.
 
Ending statement:
Results will differ per case but usually if you don't get a great deal, you still know where you might a different place where you can get internet for less money. Switching from provider almost always saves money.

Yup, seconding the tutorial
 
Does work
 
 

DISCLAIMER:
The succes of this tutorial will vary hugely from situation to situation. You might get less of a deal than I did, you might get more. It is certainly worth trying though. Even if you don't come out with as much success as me, it's probaly still a win for you.
 
The problem:
Internet is expensive, especially if you want a reliable and fast connection. ISPs don't hesetate to make a huge profit on their bandwith. Especially in the states where internet networks are almost entirely monopolised. In these difficult times we could all use less fixed charges each month, though this tutorial will work pretty much any time.
 
The solution:
To some this might be real obvious and some have probaly already done this but for a lot of folks this is new news. Call your ISP and tell them you want to switch over to a new one, or just buy a new plan and let your new provider cancel your old plan. Be prepaired to actually do it though with it as this might be the case. Do some research and look into alternatives in your area, there might be more than you think. In the states finding alternatives might be quite hard, if you can't find any competitors than unfortunatly this tutorial will come to an end here for you. Perhaps you could make a difference and set up your own network.
 
Once your ISP has been contacted, either by you or your potential next IPS, your current ISP will call you or put you through to a customer retention representative. At this stage, whatever you do, be nice! These people get enough flak thrown their way. Make sure they like talking to you, this will give them more insentive to genuanly help you. Tell them you want to switch because of prefirebally pricing or if thats not an option some other issue. They will than probaly give you a non-advertised offer. If they don't remeber to BE NICE. Usually their first offer isn't the best offer they can do so be hasitant. Perhaps you want to think about it a little longer. Perhaps their compatitor is still cheaper. They usually give you a second, better offer. This is where I usually bite. They might give you a 3rd offer but I always take the 2nd.
 
My results:
My original situation was that I paid 60+ Euros for 200MB/s down reliable internet. I state reliable because that is the main selling point of the ISP I connect to, and boy, do they deliver. My first time when they tried to increasy my monthly pricy by about 2 euros, I used this tactic and it got me a monthly discount of 10 euro's per month for an entire year, after which I could cancel again. So when my price shot back up to 62 euros, I decided to cancel again. This time, I saved 10 euros a month by downgrading my internet package since I have an internal bottlenack which caps me at 100MB/s. Aditionally they offered me a discount of 15 euros a month for 10 months if I sayed for another year. This would avarage out to 12.50 euros a month, or 150 euros a year.
 
Other sources:
 
This guy makes great videos btw and wears LTT merch. Can Linus hire him already? He would be a great second Luke. Unfortunatly he's been quiet for a very long time.
 
Ending statement:
Results will differ per case but usually if you don't get a great deal, you still know where you might a different place where you can get internet for less money. Switching from provider almost always saves money.

DISCLAIMER:
The succes of this tutorial will vary hugely from situation to situation. You might get less of a deal than I did, you might get more. It is certainly worth trying though. Even if you don't come out with as much success as me, it's probaly still a win for you.
 
The problem:
Internet is expensive, especially if you want a reliable and fast connection. ISPs don't hesetate to make a huge profit on their bandwith. Especially in the states where internet networks are almost entirely monopolised. In these difficult times we could all use less fixed charges each month, though this tutorial will work pretty much any time.
 
The solution:
To some this might be real obvious and some have probaly already done this but for a lot of folks this is new news. Call your ISP and tell them you want to switch over to a new one, or just buy a new plan and let your new provider cancel your old plan. Be prepaired to actually do it though with it as this might be the case. Do some research and look into alternatives in your area, there might be more than you think. In the states finding alternatives might be quite hard, if you can't find any competitors than unfortunatly this tutorial will come to an end here for you. Perhaps you could make a difference and set up your own network.
 
Once your ISP has been contacted, either by you or your potential next IPS, your current ISP will call you or put you through to a customer retention representative. At this stage, whatever you do, be nice! These people get enough flak thrown their way. Make sure they like talking to you, this will give them more insentive to genuanly help you. Tell them you want to switch because of prefirebally pricing or if thats not an option some other issue. They will than probaly give you a non-advertised offer. If they don't remeber to BE NICE. Usually their first offer isn't the best offer they can do so be hasitant. Perhaps you want to think about it a little longer. Perhaps their compatitor is still cheaper. They usually give you a second, better offer. This is where I usually bite. They might give you a 3rd offer but I always take the 2nd.
 
My results:
My original situation was that I paid 60+ Euros for 200MB/s down reliable internet. I state reliable because that is the main selling point of the ISP I connect to, and boy, do they deliver. My first time when they tried to increasy my monthly pricy by about 2 euros, I used this tactic and it got me a monthly discount of 10 euro's per month for an entire year, after which I could cancel again. So when my price shot back up to 62 euros, I decided to cancel again. This time, I saved 10 euros a month by downgrading my internet package since I have an internal bottlenack which caps me at 100MB/s. Aditionally they offered me a discount of 15 euros a month for 10 months if I sayed for another year. This would avarage out to 12.50 euros a month, or 150 euros a year.
 
Other sources:
 
This guy makes great videos btw and wears LTT merch. Can Linus hire him already? He would be a great second Luke. Unfortunatly he's been quiet for a very long time.
 
Ending statement:
Results will differ per case but usually if you don't get a great deal, you still know where you might a different place where you can get internet for less money. Switching from provider almost always saves money.

I did it with a very old Dell PC and a Zalman Reserator and it worked fine.  That was a long time ago and with slow processors.  I tried on a SFF (Shuttle PC) and had to make an acrylic shroud and add a fan at the top.  I suppose you could daisy chain a bunch together and see what happens...  There are two Reserators 1 & 2, 2 is no longer on their website you will have to Google it.  https://www.zalman.com/US/Product/ProductList.do?searchCategory1=4&searchCategory2=49

The main limitations to something like a thermosiphon system would be water capacity vs cooling capability.  Old 2 cylinder John Deere farm tractors used that system (no pump) but even they still needed a fan to draw air through the radiator.  You are going to need to keep the radiator above the level of all your heat producing components.  The radiator would need to sit vertically so that as the water cools it can drop in the radiator.  It could be done but I can't see that it would be efficient enough to keep a cpu cool.

I believe they once tested something called the "thermosiphon" which does something like that. I'm not sure though if it would be an alternative to watercooling as it appears to be more like an improved version of an air cooler that eliminates the problems with heat transfer through the material of a heatsink.
 
Edit: it turns out to be a whole category of cooling systems, (see thermosiphon on wikipedia) so it's a thing indeed! 
 
Although LTT did a video at least once on a product like this, I think they could still try and make a DIY version.

Thanks for the clearification. It's unfortunate that these units look so similar.

Just an FYI because you seemed unsure:
 
Both video bitrate and Internet speeds are rated in Megabits per second (Mbps - or a multiple of said unit, such as Kbps) - You can tell the difference by the size of the 'b' - Big 'B' = Byte. Little 'b' = Bit. 8 bits per byte.
 
4K UHD Blu-Ray is generally 100 Mbps - though in theory the disc spec allows up to 150 Mbps.
 
It's unclear whether the disc spec for UHD Blu-Ray would allow for 8K. It's definitely capable of being added in a revision, if needed - but I highly doubt we'll see 8K Blu-Ray's anytime soon.

Bro ! Thank you so much..turns out that my power strip is failing.Switching the power strip is the solution i needed..thank you very much

No, just get an air cooler in the 30-50$ USD range. Like an Arctic eSports

Because the coper wire inside the cable is very thin and brittle. 
 
So its very easy to ruin a cable by bending it tightly over and over.
 
Its not really about degradation of the signal. But a total lack of signal due to a break in the copper wire.