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That's really stupid, given a lot of us are busy with Starfield.

I fear this may be an eARC glitch, was lucky for me it fixed itself (possibly a firmware update on my TV) apart from that occasional glitch on game launch.
 
I could perhaps check Motorfest tomorrow to see if it glitches for me as I believe it has a free trial.  I know its The Crew 2 specifically that likes to cause the audio to fail sometimes, though its the game I play the most so could just be that its statistically more likely to happen on it.

Apart from being wireless only (though it can switch between Bluetooth and receiver) and over $40, the G603 has everything else.

You can add HWInfo readings to the overlay. To do this, go to Settings, General/User Interface > enable Shared Memory Support in HWInfo. Then go to the sensors window, click the gear icon (Configure Sensors), OSD (RTSS), find CPU Package Power and check "Show value in OSD". Now open RTSS and check "Show Own Statistics".

You could take a look and see if anything is obviously gone bad, check continuity and all that stuff. If you have a spare oven you never want to use for food again you could do a solder reflow but you are probably not going to revive it

I'm sorry to say but 43 is usually dead hardware 😞

I have an HP Pavilion 15-au009tx (i7-6500U, GeForce 940MX, 8GB DDR4) and I can't get the 940MX working. It shows a code 43 in device manager and doesn't show up anywhere (NVIDIA control panel doesn't launch, no high performance GPU option in graphics settings, etc). I have tried the following steps:
 
1) Downloading the specific drivers from HP's website.
2) Letting Windows download drivers.
3) Manually downloading the latest drivers from NVIDIA.
(used DDU in between steps 1-3).
4) Fully upgrading BIOS/Reset to default. The BIOS is very limited so I can't really change anything here, it only has boot options, virtualization, and various security options. 
5) Multiple Windows re-installs (Windows 10 21H2 64-bit). 
6) Disconnecting the internal screen and using an external monitor via HDMI.
 
Think it's dead? I haven't tried removing the heatsink over the GPU yet although I might take a look since this laptop has had a lot of strange assembly or repair issues (disconnected strip cables, a literal sticker blocking the RAM stick's contact point).

Totally slipped my mind, I had to do this as well when setting up my 9020! Glad you figured it out.
 
As for this, you can reference my thread if it gets worse.
 

Can you launch the installation media with secure boot now? If so, now that your BIOS is up to date, maybe try enabling secure boot and then clean installing to the SSD.

I would use Veeam Agent for Windows Free Edition to create a backup of your machine (always good practice), then restore said backup to the other drive, part of the restore process allows you to do some advanced mapping of the drive so that once it is restored you can easily extend the desired partition to use the remainder

Check out this video from JayzTwoCents, it seems to describe what you're dealing with.
 

YES! That's it! Don't know why it was so hard for me to remember that or why it was so impossible to google my way to that name. Annoying!
Thank you very much! 😄

Sounds like the Services app. 

Sounds like the Services app. 

The stuttering sounds like this strange issue. Check if fTPM is enabled in the BIOS. 

I've been experiencing this issue too, but it was so rare I never really researched it. I thought I was the only one! It generally happens 2-3 times a week while gaming and I see extreme visual and audio stutter for 2 seconds or so, and then it's all fine. Running a 5900X on B550-E ROG STRIX (BIOS 2423) and the latest version of Windows 11. FTPM is enabled. At the end of the day, it doesn't really bother me since it's so infrequent but hopefully this gets resolved soon.

Personally, I chose a B550 for the sole reason of avoiding one of these fans (and also because I didn't need the extra features). Using a 5900X, a gen 4 SSD, and RTX 3080 using gen 4, I haven't had any issues. As long as you get a good quality B550 with premium power delivery/VRM heatsinks and you don't need to have something like two gen 4 SSD's at once, you shouldn't have any issues.
 
I believe there are fan-less X570s now though, so that might be worth looking into. There may also be a way to disable the PCH fan, but I wouldn't risk it.

DLSS is not automatically supported on every game, only games that have specifically added it. Here's a list.

DLSS is not automatically supported on every game, only games that have specifically added it. Here's a list.

Based on the feedback from the reddit page, it looks like people are having problems similar to you so I held off on updating, I'm on 497.09 and it seems generally stable apart from an annoying black flicker issue in multi monitor setups. Keep in mind I have an RTX 3080 though. If you also have the flicker issue, 472.12 was the last good driver.

For anything last gen like that, eBay is fine.  You only really get boned if you're trying to sell something that's scalped like a 3000 series card.  I would never sell one of those on eBay cause it's begging for some neckbeard to try scamming you "because muh justice".

Few ways you can.
 
Facebook Market Place
Local Craigslist or Kijjii (or however its spelt)
Ebay
Reddit Hardware Swap
We also have a section here on the LTT forum called Classified that you can buy/sell hardware as well
 

The designated best cores are just the ones that Windows is going to prioritize using. It really doesn't mean much in this context, except that the core is going to be worked harder and so may need a bit more voltage to remain stable. It's also based on the stock config, so as soon as you start to OC/UV, all bets are off as to the accuracy of that.

If anything, black level is actually more important, because all the HDR standards apply a PQ curve to shift more data into the dark areas. If you can't properly display true black, you're losing a ton of detail.

That is because the HDR tonemapping implementation in the G7 calls out for a 1000 nits signal. And changing your game to send a lower signal will mess that up.
 
But even if you fight the washed out colors with manual oversaturation you still have another big problem at hand that will make HDR look bad: Raising the monitor brightness will also raise the black level. 
 
Tbh the best option for HDR on the G7 is to not use it. Like it is with most HDR400, HDR600 and even some HDR1000 monitors. That's the sad reality.
 
You really net a PROPER HDR implementation to make HDR look better than it's SDR counterpart. Without a proper wide gamut (>90% DCI-P3) and plenty of local dimming zones (at least 384 for a 27" monitor) you won't end up anywhere close to how HDR should look, even if the peak brightness of your monitor is enough. HDR is not just brightness after all.
 
If you want real HDR you will either have to wait several more years when it (maybe) is more affordable or you have to spend upwards of $1500 for a real HDR monitor. That being said HDR monitors have been there for a few years now and if anything they have become more expensive.