mcRYSHER

I'd say it's not as likely if the computer has been in the same spot, never moved, temperature and humidity has been stable and you haven't messed with the case.
 
It's also possible as Robchill said that the BIOS update caused it, but the only way to know that for sure is to roll-back the BIOS and boot Windows etc. as WhatIsThis suggested. If you do that, check the CSM settings, TPM settings and Secure Boot settings, as that may be why Windows won't boot.
 
I tend to agree with Robchill that if you:
Update the BIOS Clear the CMOS For good measure, you can unplug the whole PC and hold down the power button for 30 seconds then plug it back in Make sure Fast Startup is disabled (if that's an option on the TRX boards) as it may just be a RAM training issue. But since you're removed and re-installed the RAM, make sure you've got it all just right as contact issues with both the CPU and DIMMs are a very common problem with this motherboard. (just Google it to see what I mean).

This may be due to a TPM setting change (from on by default to off) or a Secure Boot default/CSM default change.
 
Looks like it's likely that the CPU and/or RAM is not seated properly... many other people have had issues like this. I just picked 3 comments:
 
[SOLVED] RAM failure with threadripper build - ASUS Hardware (spiceworks.com)
 

Could be a bent pin under the section of the CPU that's dedicated to the memory controller. I've had that happen before. Could also be a dead slot. Did you try known good RAM in each slot on the board?
 
If that all works but the board still isn't accepting four DIMMs, you might try rolling back the BIOS and seeing if the problem persists. If it does, I'd wager there's some kind of damage to the board.

Go back to an older BIOS 

Thank you for asking the question, pointing this out to some coworkers who also run win11 on their workstations.

Looks about it when it comes to Win11 file explorer search options. This machine's GPO is managed but those should be default, and that last option is what you might want to enable.
 

I think I haven't had any dropouts in the last three days. Will see in the next few days. I also had a minor crackling in videogames, but I fixed that by changing audio output frequency from 41 kHz to 48 kHz

I was able to fix that by installing SetPoint software by Logi. Found an advice in google. However that driver booster is a weird thing. 

Yeah, I decided make a message about it, because I found a fix. I hope somebody will find it helpful.
Definitely something related to drivers and not a hardware issue. Like I said, I almost never had an audio dropout in a game.

Btw check out this thread...
Audio issues due to the newer Nvidia drivers. Might be related.

Well. i did ask you if you downloaded the drivers from AMD, didn't I? AMD fixed some black screen issues, blue screens and some performance issues with that driver.
Did it help?
 
Did driver booster find something?
 
As for vBios it's the GPU Bios / firmware, not the motherboard.
 
As for SSD firmwares, just like new bioses or drivers, manufacturers make them to fix issues and/or improve performance/longevity/compatibility etc. Avoiding updates is not logical.

Also a quick note about VRM:
Most VRM components are completely fine to run at temperatures above 100C. Usually somewhere around 120C.
 
You run a hefty threadripper chip, booting activates a lot of that chip so it is only normal that VRM usage spikes during this time, meaning hotter temps.

It is, if the board has a zero RPM mode.
 
It's Corsair RGB software on an ASUS board, use HWInfo or your BIOS immediately after a restart to check that.
If it also reports those types of temperatures, try finding an IR thermometer and pointing it at a non-reflective part of the VRM to see its temperature; doing so by hand might burn you and can be dangerous for your components.

Its been running fine for a long time? Perhaps the ram has very slightly degraded in which case after you enable to docp BEFORE you save and restart highlight the DRAM voltage and push the + key once, sometimes mildly degraded parts can work properly again with a very small voltage bump 

is there maybe a fast boot option you can enable

you could try updating the SSDs firmware, but i don't think it is gonna help much. sounds like she's dead. 😞

Just run Disk defragment built into windows, there's "Optimize" there on SSD-s and Defragment on HDD-s.

Yes enable trim, when you delete something or temporary files come and go they don't actually get removed right away, the file paths become invisible is all, Trim is the function that goes in a cleans this up

So, the reason was... Xbox controller! Actually it is the wireless adapter for the controller. It is the cause of input lag that slows down PC. I removed the wireless adapter and the problem solved. Hope it helps to someone.

This is completely normal. The fans spin up as a test and to try to clear any dust that accumulated while the PC was turned off (which for all the GPU "knows" could have been years). Some GPU's actually spin their fans in reverse for this purpose. 

Usually it's a test for the fans. 10 seconds is a bit long, but maybe it will run full speed until Windows controls the fan in which case it's absolutely fine

So, the reason was... Xbox controller! Actually it is the wireless adapter for the controller. It is the cause of input lag that slows down PC. I removed the wireless adapter and the problem solved. Hope it helps to someone.

But doing a restart resets everything.  there is intentionally doing something and having stuff happen.  The check for that wouldn’t be a restart it would be looking at Hwinfo while the problem is in full force.  Still wouldn’t be definitive necessarily, though it would catch many possibles if they were there.  It very well may not be the issue though and there very well may be more likely causes.

I like the concept of flow indicators but find them rather pointless if you have a pwm pump and plug it into the motherboard. This way you are warned and the system can shut off if the pump stops. 
This one does seem a little louder then some. But I have heard some loud ones. One on the Corsair gpu blocks I had were pretty loud. It is a moving part without a bearing and will always introduce noise of some level. 

My aquacomputer flow indicator (the bulky one one that plugs into their aquaero interface) also rattles slightly. 
 
Yours seems unusually loud though like it's become off balance.  Maybe try cleaning it out and seeing if that helps?  Or just remove it from the loop entirely...if your loop stops it's not like components are going to catch on fire.