OmanGS

Delisting

It's just a newer chipset. There's really not a whole hell of a lot that has changed - the only real-world difference you'll see is the ability to get a slightly better overclock.
 
It basically runs into the, "Well, it's newer and costs about the same, so why not?", argument. 

There's no chance that you'll bottleneck on that machine - at least nothing that you should worry about.
 
It's a solid cookie-cut rig.

There's no chance that you'll bottleneck on that machine - at least nothing that you should worry about.
 
It's a solid cookie-cut rig.

It looks like the end of an era for your GPU, @Pajamasam - it'll be a good collectors item now, hah.
 
I honestly wouldn't have even thought about testing the iGPU. It's far too early in the morning for my caffeine-less brain to function. Agh.

It looks like the end of an era for your GPU, @Pajamasam - it'll be a good collectors item now, hah.
 
I honestly wouldn't have even thought about testing the iGPU. It's far too early in the morning for my caffeine-less brain to function. Agh.

We are winning now, the display problem is over, that's the BIOS, you have to go into the settings for the boot device inside the BIOS, and set the PC to boot from whatever drive contains your windows disc (disc drive).
 
It could be represented by a slightly different logo in the menu than regular hard drives, as it's an optical drive. (I know this is the case with ASUS boards) MSI should be roughly similar.

Hopefully you get some good news from the iGPU. I'm guessing that your graphics card (in)conveniently died - but this will definitely tell us what's up with it.
 
Well, it'll narrow it a little.

Hopefully you get some good news from the iGPU. I'm guessing that your graphics card (in)conveniently died - but this will definitely tell us what's up with it.
 
Well, it'll narrow it a little.

What exactly is your budget for the laptop? Once we have hat information (pardon if I missed it in your post), plenty of us will be able to answer any question you have!

It should work automatically, but as @Askew said, you might need to use a dual-link DVI cable. It'll probably work perfectly with the GTX780Ti - my best guess is that your older GPU is just slowly showing signs of age.
 
Try using the on-monitor options to change the display settings. I'm not in front of my PB278Q right now, but I know there's a few ways to mess around with it.
 
Dual-link DVI is a high bandwidth alternative to standard DVI, allowing you to push past 1920x1080. It's pretty well been crushed by display port at this time - but older GPUs seem to have a twig up their arses about sticking to dual-link DVI.
 
Edit: Changed wording, it sounded like I said dual-link is 1920x1080.

Have you tried DVI 

What exactly is your budget for the laptop? Once we have hat information (pardon if I missed it in your post), plenty of us will be able to answer any question you have!

I'm sure most of you are already familiar with this one, use EQ to invert the Frequency Response Graph. Head-fi have an old thread discussing this. Anyway, here goes.
 

 
So this is a Frequency Response Graph, more precisely, this is the Frequency Response Graph for the Hifiman HE-400. What this is saying roughly, is when this particular headphone is given a flat tone (same volumes/loudness across the frequencies), it will distort that flat tone and give output mapped in the graph. This give us a general idea of the sound characteristic of that particular headphone. For example, from the graph above, the HE-400 is fairly flat on the lows and lower mid. Quite a big drop on the higher mid, and a spike on the high. I'd say, the HE-400 is generally a warm sounding headphone, with good (but not full) highs. This gives us the idea of the sound characteristic, NOT quality of the sound itself, though.
 
This graph was generated by Headroom, based on their tests. This is not the raw testing data, though. I think this is the adjusted graph.
 
 
 
You can try and find the graph of your headphone (if they're listed), here
 
Of course most good headphones are the result of months, if not years, of intensive researches, to get the best sound results. Meaning they are already factory tuned to give optimum sound output. Although I love the sound characteristic of the HE-400 as it is, I wanted to try something different. Even if you love burgers, sometimes you'd want to go for hot dogs, right?
 
So I got curious, and tried to fiddle with Foobar's EQ, based on the graph. I set my EQ to try to invert the graph above:
 

 
Of course it's just a rough invertion of the graph. The result is pleasantly surprising. I got fuller mids out of my HE-400. I can hear more details from the music. Of course the details were originally there this whole time, but due to it's frequency drop, it didn't really pop out. So this is something you might wanna try, if only just for variations/fun. 
 
Just remember, don't go crazy with adding the gain on the EQ bands, though. Your driver might be hardware limited to play certain frequencies at certain loudness. For example, in the graph above, the deepest valley is -15dB. To properly invert it, I'd have to add +15dB (maybe a bit less), right? Well, when I push the middle bands pass the +8dB mark, I got clippings. Clippings sound like 'click-click', or small pops. I think this is because the driver is just not designed to output that certain frequencies at that certain loudness. Clippings could potentially damage your driver, if played on a long run, so be careful there.
 
Once again, this is not about 'make your headphone performs better'. If anything, it might even performs worse. This is just something to do for fun, for trying a different 'taste' out of your headphone. 

try removing the base that is already on it with prep then possibly using a 2 PAK system, which will ensure it won't peel away; but be warned 2 pak paint isn't that cheap but works like a dream. Also see if you can get hydrotop from Dupont they lead in the paint industry. 

Buy good product and follow the general rules of panting - prep the ever-living hell out of it, prep it again, and then paint it (spray cans are the easiest).
 
You'll want to check out some tutorials on surface preparation if you haven't already. It's quite easy, but it's nice to see how to do it prior to "experimenting" for your first time.
 
A quick search on YouTube should find a few thousand videos for you, even computer-specific ones.
 
Edit: PlastiDip is good, but it's a totally different beast in comparison to paint. It's a noticeable coating once done, no a thin layer of paint. If you do go with plastidip, you may have rubbing issues down the road that will tear it on the edges.

Yes I know, I did not really know a good free video editing program, so I thought I would just say atleast something to help him/her out. He/she said he/she was not sure if this was the right place for this question, I thought I could help by telling where these posts belong so he/she can get a better response next time because it is read by the people who can solve it.
 
I agree on you suggestions, Lightworks is a something else than most video editing programs though, so it really depends on if it suits you.

- Originality. Wild ideas. New type of games, thinking outside the box.
- Engagement with community, even at early developing stages. Like free alpha.
- Modding capability, or addons etc...
- No DLC, microtransactions
- Multiplayer ( optional, depends on game. often is MP core of the game and drives sales, rep )
Then other would apply for different types of games etc... If i knew what you are planning to do, id help with ideas and stuff. Just like rest of community. A well organised forum with suggestions would be nice. 
 
Wouldnt be multiplayer for goat simulator nice ?
Lots of work with networking but... it would be worth it.

If you're video editing, I would go for larger than a 1TB. Try a 2 or 3TB Blue or Black, and I might throw in a 64 or 128gb SSD for boot. Everything else looks good, but I would go nVidia for GPU - the 7950 is getting pretty old, but if it works for you thats fine.
 
Hope this helps!
 
BenestoTech

no need for a UPS unless you are doing critical work and don't save it often. A UPS is usually just a surge protector with a battery to keep the thing running for a couple of minutes (just enough time to save your work). A power outage will just turn off your computer the same way as if you were pressing the power button for several seconds to abruptly shut down your computer. 
 
What is much more important however is just to get a cheap surge protector to protect from sudden variations in current that could destroy your pc's components outright. That costs a lot less than a UPS
 
Here's one example of a surge protetor

Hey all,
 
I know a lot of you don't know me well at all, but I really do love this community (albeit it can be a little nerve-tugging at times). I'm off to train as an Avionics Systems Technician with the Air Force and will be gone for the next 72 weeks starting on the 8th of March.
 
Leaving a computer business behind to be ran is a scary thing, but you've always got to follow your dreams (and apparently mine were to re-enlist and get yelled at by angry men once more in my life).
 
I'm pretty stoked that my trade choice was open, and I'm even more stoked that I'm keeping my pay-grade from when I released (you know, a Private Recruit makes plenty, but I don't think my dainty-arse could survive on it - hah).
 
Cheers all!

@RyanE512
 
Hey. For water cooling there is a radiator, CPU/GPU (depending on what is being cooled) block, pump, tubing and fans.
 
The CPU block as attached to the CPU making a tight seal between the block and CPU with thermal paste applied, in the same manner as an aircooled heatsink is used. This dissipates the heat from the CPU chip. Water is pumped around a sealed loop through the tubing to the radiator. 
 
A radiator is a large array of fins that have a large surface area. The water passes through the fins and the fans push air across the fins. This is how the heat is dissipated from the water cooling loop. 
 
The process is repeated (rinse and repeat). Hence keeping the chip cool.

Good luck. I hope you get to play with some nice toys. Please don't break any as we are still paying them off.

Thanks for the game man Good luck with the job.

Hey all,
 
I know a lot of you don't know me well at all, but I really do love this community (albeit it can be a little nerve-tugging at times). I'm off to train as an Avionics Systems Technician with the Air Force and will be gone for the next 72 weeks starting on the 8th of March.
 
Leaving a computer business behind to be ran is a scary thing, but you've always got to follow your dreams (and apparently mine were to re-enlist and get yelled at by angry men once more in my life).
 
I'm pretty stoked that my trade choice was open, and I'm even more stoked that I'm keeping my pay-grade from when I released (you know, a Private Recruit makes plenty, but I don't think my dainty-arse could survive on it - hah).
 
Cheers all!