Nicnac

this is epic

Also the CPU lineup is pathetic, maxing out at a quad core ULP i7 (presumably the starter model still has a dual core).
 
If anyone is considering this I strongly encourage you to check out ASUS' UX line.

i got the k55 RGB from corsair and it ticks all the boxes
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Membrane-Programmable-Backlighting-Multimedia/dp/B01N3ML307/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1Q3I8FG5UIAX5&dchild=1&keywords=k55%2Bcorsair&qid=1584647735&sprefix=k55%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-1&th=1

Keep in mind CPU-Z doesn't just 'shows half speed', it's more like the memory manufacturers show double the speed.
They do this because every Mhz (tick) = 2 transfers. So one might argue the effective Mhz is 3200Mhz, but it's still only doing 1600 ticks a second:
https://www.techsiting.com/mt-s-vs-mhz/
 
It's like you have two people, one carrying 1 bag of groceries, the other carrying 2 bags of groceries.
Neither does two steps at a time, but the person carrying 2 bags of groceries is effective 'outputting' (carrying) a result that is equal to that first person carrying 1 bag of groceries. But just because his effective output is 2 bags of groceries moved per step, it doesn't mean he suddenly does two steps at a time.
 
Sorry if I didn't put in words correctly what I am thinking, but 'CPU-Z shows half the speed' is very easy for people to understand, but also incorrect, which I wanted to elaborate on.
 This is just one of those things you find out one day, not really something I would classify as a 'knowledge gap'.
Just remember 1600Mhz is the actual output, but 3200Mhz is the effective output, because it does two transfers per Hz.
 

Agreed.
I was just trying to make sure @Nicnac knew his XMP was working! hehe
 

I'd say you are in the right place now, at least to start.
I've learned a lot from these forums and have gone from the helpee to the helper over the last few years.
 

TL;DR: your RAM is running at the correct speed.
 
RAM actually runs at 1600Mhz, that many ticks a second (in millions).
It's just every 'tick' it transfers two packages (that is why DDR = double data rate), so manufacturers of RAM/motherboards just call it 3200Mhz. It's actually 3200MT/s. transfers a second (times 1 million).

That is 3200MHZ.  DDR shows half speed in CPUZ.

Hell if I know? Planters Dry Roasted Peanuts could be working on a super computer for all I know at this point.

I wouldn;t recommend painting them. It will make the fans unbalanced and increase noise and wear on the bearings all leading to earlier failure of the fan.

I wouldn;t recommend painting them. It will make the fans unbalanced and increase noise and wear on the bearings all leading to earlier failure of the fan.

something like the B450m Pro4 or B450m/AC is usually quite cheap. 
 
what powersupply are you currently running?
 
you really wont run into that issue on anything bigger than a 400w PSU.  like a good 550w is more than enough to power almost anything you would want to power on the consumer plattform. (good PSUs more or less start at 400w, you will be hard pressed to find something ATX size that has less wattage)
why dual caviar blues? redundancy? but its only 1TB aswell. so its rather expencive. 
no i did not rell him that. 
 but
why on so many levels was this your go-to drive? its 250gb, and while samsung is known to be overpriced, that there is the price of 2TB of SSD storage.......
a bit odd choice considering that rtx 2060 and rx 5700 are both only a touch more, and that touch more can be gained by changing to a cheaper PSU and not doing dual caviars. 
perfectly good powersupply, tho a little overkill. things that are worth noting about it is that its a bit noisy when changing from a lower power mode due to atx rev compliance. 
at this point in time the 3600 really is a better choice.
good motherboard, tho a touch expencive for what it offers. id probably recommend saving on buying a good b450 instead. 

Let's see just how much you got wrong...
Ignoring OP's request for a build centered around a used Ryzen 5 1600/2600 and a B450M motherboard? Check.
OP wanting to maybe keep the 1050ti graphics card, which you also ignored in the post you quoted? Check.
Immediately going for one of the most expensive 250 GB SSDs around? Check.

might wanna update the desc of the video tho

I'm ugly and I work...

Is your router updated? Is your car? Your wifi adapter? Your phone? Your smart watch/bluetooth headphones/mouse/etc? As I bet we could find an exploit on any or all of them you have not patched. But fine, say other people need to stop using their products or buy new ones. "I'm alright Jack" right?

Here’s me running win 7 cause I’m too lazy to upgrade lol. The days where I played around and excessively fine tuned my systems are kinda over. Now I just want to switch it on for a couple games and then forget about it

i reckon if you counted how many led's are in each of your man-made 'squares', you could program each one to be a different colour etc. pretty easily if they are addressable.
 
something like icue would easily do it but it would be hard to change colour scheme kinda as you have to select each pixel individually 

Most of them use the same 4pin RGB header as is on some motherboards and do work with ASUS Aura etc so if you run the connector (they mostly have seperate power and lighting control) into your PC case you could use your motherboard if it supports it

Correct, but watch the videos. It’s still a major factor and its important go at lest go above 3000Mhz

While they still do benefit from fast memory, I think that this-gen ryzen does not depend on it as much as earlier generations

I always do some kind of diy in my led strips. I just use some acetate, paint the inside white then make some kind of diffuser with it. 
 
#PoorButWantsRGB

Mind you I know your source and quite a lot about the source material, so allow me to illuminate:
WD's flash, or SanDisk's flash - same company - is basically the same as BiCS3 (64L Toshiba TLC) on these drives. It's definitely the worst of the big three or four: Samsung > IMFT (Intel or Micron) > Toshiba/WD/SanDisk, that is. Although the flash on their NVMe drives is superior to Toshiba. The methodology used by the site you linked is inherently flawed. I do love reading through their results, but it's not realistic for consumer usage. A large reason for this is SLC caching which often has an additive effect to NAND wear, especially with pure writes on dynamic SLC - this is why the SU800, a drive with legendarily high TBW, fails so quickly on their testbed: it's full-drive SLC caching. However in reality, consumer usage would make the most of that SLC. You do know the tested SU800 has 20% overprovisioning? (288GiB of flash for 238.4GiB user space)  And you believe its failure before TBW is realistic? The WD Blue 3D (or SanDisk Ultra 3D) has a robust controller in the Marvell 88SS1074. It's used in many client and enterprise drives, even. So I respectably disagree with your analysis. That being said, I would take the MX500 or one of its clones over the Blue 3D.

They die all of a sudden (which is way too unexpecting for an SSD from a reputable brand), and their Blue line up with 3D NAND? Doesn't even reach its stated resource before dying. WD greens are ain't that bad, but they die suddently, too... Can't say anything about blacks, though... Source: https://3dnews.ru/938764/page-3.html#Western%20Digital%20Blue%20SSD

Whatever you do, stay away from WD SSDs... Unlike their HDDs, those are terrible af... Better go for 860 evo.
It does impact loading times and how much free RAM you have (since DRAM-less SSDs use PC RAM for cache purposes).