Vadise

I can only recommend the HyperX Cloud just from pure experience. The Void's microphone has a tendency to break, and the Astro, I cant speak for it as I have never seen or used one.

I'd pull it out and keep it sepparate, the less parts in the case the better. You dont know where and how the machine is going to be in the cargo hold. If it is going to be upright, upside down, on it's side, or if it is going to have a lot of stuff stacked on top.

it's the speed of the fsb on older intel processors
 
the gm965 chipset can only go between 533Mhz and 800Mhz chips iirc, there was mods to get the Qxxxx chips working on the old Lenovo machines back in the day but they'd throttle really hard as essentially the c2q mobiles are 2 underclocked c2d mobiles on one chip, and while they have a 45w tdp like some high end c2d chips the actual power draw is much higher. 

yeah it won't work they use different sockets even though mechanically the same ones socket 
PPGA478 and the other is 
PGA478 and thus not compatible
 
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/735950-Are-the-PGA478-and-PPGA478-sockets-compatible

most likely no.. if the cpu is really removable.. even though the socket might be the same, unless you could buy the same machine with the more powerful cpu, then no, they don't add support for other cpu's in bios as laptops are not considered upgradeable in the way desktops are.

if there is a model with the same motherboard that uses the more powerful cpu, then maybe with a bios update..

A transfer is a thing of data coming out of or in to a device of some sort. For instance DDR4-2166 has a transfer rate of about 2,166,000,000 transfers per second. This is sometimes more meaningful than a data rate depending on the architecture. Like if your data buses only work in fixed data sizes, a transfer rate is more meaningful than a data rate because you're always getting a fixed amount of data, even if some of that data may not be useful.
 
However I think OP is looking for a different spec than transfer rate, which some people seem to have answered.

The socket is the exact fuckin' same. Same amount of pins, same oorientation.The only difference between PGA478 and PPGA478 is the FSB speeds required and microcode. By adding the microcode, flashing the BIOS with the new modded microcode and then using the processor it may work, but it does depend on the chipset implementation by the manufacturer. 
 
I'd say it's not worth the effort, but if this isn't op's main machine and he doesn't care if he kills it or not, why not try and see if you can get this old machine kicking ass again?

no use in continuing.
the sockets are not the same, you have socket PPGA478, the cpu you want to use is PGA478.

also, i highly doubt your bios has support for the cpu anyway, so even with getting it to fit and having applied any fsb speed mods in an attempt to make it work, it won't do anything if there isn't support for it in bios.
this is why people usually say it's not worth it, because even though it fits, it requires ALOT of macguyvering just to get it to boot, if you can actuallly get that far. you'll spend alot of time to figure out that it won't work, or if you actually manage to get it to work, you have most likely impaired the rest of the system just to get it to work together with the cpu, so that any increase in speed would be insignificant vs the work you put in.. 

The ticking is the hard drive. Warranty wont cover drop damage, unless the chassis is 100% clean and shows no marks whatsoever and even then they may rule the HDD's premature death to a drop.
 
If your GE62 2QD has SSD storage, turn the machine off, remove the mechanical hard drive and use it without it, unless you have a replacement.

it is possible to move OS to a non bootable storage but you will still need USB for /boot. its as simple as copying the files and changing /etc/fstab to define / and /boot. raspberrypi users do the opposite; use sd as /boot.  http://www.kupply.com/move-your-raspberry-pi-system-to-usb-in-10-steps/
 
the easiest thing to do would be to buy small usb drives like this one from san disk https://www.sandisk.com/home/usb-flash/ultra-fit-usb
 
if the laptop has ide you can buy a CF to ide adapter cheap. I dont know if there are usb to sata adapters available, i saw one years ago but it was expensive. aliexpress should have them
 

Having a bootloader 'only' on a usb can certainly be done, it's often used as a paranoid method of ensuring full disk encryption really means full disk encryption.
 
A guide for arch might be useful to give you an idea of what you need to do. Since you are using porteus, I'm assuming you'll be able to work something out.
https://gist.github.com/firecat53/17b3d309ea54a0ed0cd4

The BEST solution is common sense.  You can get 100 different malware suites and if you have no idea what you're doing, you'll end up with every form of malware imaginable.
 
Regardless, Windows has built in protection that is a solid "B" grade.  It would take money before you'd get something that is "A" grade.

I strongly suggest you test it before committing to buying it
tests done with discrete PhysX cards showed the main video card will slow down for the PhysX calculations to complete - 750Ti is not a powerfull card

I'd recommend you stay within Pascal architecture, since your main card is a 1080. Go with a 1050, 1050TI or 1060. (But see if you can borrow any of these first to try like zMeul said, this could slow your main card down unless you find a perfect match for it.)

First off, That camera will show some grain in anything but a sunny day. Go test it outside on a sunny day and that will be your camera's optimal quality to shoot for.
You should to open the iris and make sure the shutter is proper using the 90 degree shutter rule. Then get as much light as you can on the subject until the grain looks similar to outside.

I think example footage would help.

First try and take out both sticks of RAM and make sure the slots are clean, then try running the PC with just one stick of RAM. If you get the same issue, try the other stick of RAM. 

It appears to me that you are filming in a very low lit situation.  Are you also using digital zoom on the camera?  The camera has 30x optical zoom and 350x digital zoom.  Maybe see if you can disable digital zoom in the camera so that you don't accidentally use it.

The image quality seems to have improved slightly over your previous samples.  There is still some grain.  Try recording in XAVC instead of AVCHD which records in lower bit rate.

That is basically an addiction, and it's in your best interest to seek professional help for a more permanent solution. 
 
In the meantime, I don't think it gets any better than what others suggested: parental control settings at steam, windows, a third party program. If you're fine with the time limit being permanent, you can go for the "random, unseen password" solution. But if it's temporary, you may use the help of one other person, who would set the time lock without telling you the password. Be sure to tell that person at the beginning for how long you need the lock, so (s)he refuses to reveal the password or unlock it for you if you ask for it earlier. 
 
But bear in mind that, if you are this addicted, you reactions to the "low gaming regime" may be unpredictable and unpleasant. 

The main difference between a lav mic designed for use with a smart phone (iOS, Android, whatever) and one designed to use with external audio recorders is the mini jack connection.  The ones for smart phones are usually TRRS, the ones for audio recorders are TRS.  If you want to connect one type to the other you need to have an adapter in between.
 
That being said, the Sennheiser ME-2 is one of the best lav mics I've ever owned.  They are very tough and will last, of course there are better ones like ones made by Voice Technologies, but they cost more.  The problem with these is that they have a locking ring at the mini jack connection and will not fit easily into audio recorders with ports without a locking thread.
 
If you want something very good to use with a Zoom H1, Rode makes two very nice microphones.  The Rode Lavalier and Rode PinMic.
 
If you want something really cheap, the Polsen OLM-10 is decent enough.

Yeah, ignore this post, it's incorrect.  1gbit is only 125 MB/s, basically every HDD currently sold hit 125MB/s sustained read or write without issue and those that can't barely come short.
 
Anyone who follows HDDs should know that 125MB/s is a pretty low bar for an HDD to hit.  So yes they 'Simply DO read that fast'.

Will a mechanical hard drive be bottlenecked by Gigabit Ethernet?
 
If anything the ethernet will be bottlenecked by the drives (highly unlikely)

Don't forget HDD disks are round. Outer part is faster then inner part of the disk.
 
My Seagate 3 tb drive will hit +/- 200 mb/s on the outer circle, and I will give you an update on the inner circle.

Gigabit is 1000 mbps or 125 MB/s ...  classic hard drives these days can reach or exceed 250 MB/s at their highest but may go down as low as 60-80 MB/s at the other end of the platters.
So when saving to a hard disk installed in your computer, depending on where the operating system chooses to write the download, you may be limited by an individual hard drive or you may not be.  However, keep in mind that it's unlikely you'll have often individual downloads that will come at more than 50-60 MB/s (or about half a gigabit) so it's not really that big of an issue.
I have a 500 mbps internet connection and I basically peak it only with Steam downloads and with small files (< 500 MB .. 1 GB) like drivers from AMD which are served from content delivery networks. 
 
If you download multiple files at the same time or torrents, chances are you're going to use a client which has the option to use computer RAM to cache data before writing it to disk. The gigabytes of computer memory can act as a buffer that can be filled up at however peak your internet connection can reach , while the buffer is being "discharged" to hard drive at the maximum possible speed the drive could achieve.
 
For example, let's say you use a 2000 MB buffer in RAM and that you download with 100 MB/s but the hard drive can sustain only 80 MB/s ... after the first second you had 100 MB in ram, 80 were written to disk, 20 MB are left in memory.  The next second, you had 120 MB in ram, 80 MB are written to disk and 40 MB remain in buffer... keeping this up, for a 2000 MB buffer it would take about 100 seconds for the buffer (or a minute and 40 seconds) for the buffer to fill up.. then the client would have to catch up by spending 2000 MB / 80 MB/s  =  25 seconds to empty the buffer and then repeat the process .. in practice when the buffer is full the client just limits the incoming bandwidth to less than the hard drive speed so that the buffer can slowly be emptied to disk
 
With external drives you have the added latencies and processor usage of usb drivers .. usb 2.0 is limited to 480 mbps or 60 MB/s but in practice you'll see more like around 35-45 MB/s .. usb 3.0 has in theory 5gbps which would mean about 600 MB/s but in practice you probably wouldn't see more than 400-450 MB/s when using a SSD. Some USB 3.0 ports are coming from onboard controllers connected to one pci-e v2.0 lane which has a maximum bandwidth of 500 MB/s, so that's why you can never get the full 5 gbps but more like 400-450 MB/s.