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About martward

  • Title
  • Birthday 1992-02-02

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Somewhere warm, hopefully
  • Interests
    Artificial Intelligence, Football (Soccer)
  • Occupation
    Machine Learning Engineer / Developer


  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 3600
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max
  • RAM
    2x8GB G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200MHz
  • GPU
    Gigabyte RTX 2060 Windforce OC
  • Case
    Fractal Design Meshify C TG
  • Storage
    Samsung Evo 512 GB, 128GB Samsung NVME and 2TB WD Blue
  • PSU
    Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650
  • Display(s)
    LG UltraGear GL83A-B
  • Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H75
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Vengeance K70
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Rival 100
  • Sound
    FiiO E10K, Hidizs S1, FiiO FA1, Sony XB50AP
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 and Ubuntu

Recent Profile Visitors

2,558 profile views
  1. Well if you don't care about the few extra frames and lower temperature, not really. I guess the first months the biggest difference will be availability. I'd pick an AIB that gets good reviews generally across generations of GPU, mostly looking at build quality and customer service (in case of RMA), and which has a card that looks good if you have a window in your case.
  2. Yeah I got the 2018 model so unfortunately it's way before they fixed it. I think I'll just go for the RM850x. AFAIK the RMX series are the higher end and I'm kind of done buying new PSUs, I just want one that'll at least last me the warranty period without someone pointing out a major flaw in the design (I had the m12ii before the focus plus and it blew up my 950).
  3. Hi all, I'm in the market for a new powersupply. Long story: The reasons I am going to buy a new one are that I'm upgrading to a new generation RTX card when they come available (not sure about 3080 or 3070 yet, and I'll probably wait for the models with more vram) and my current PSU has a known problem. I know that the chances that my current PSU (Seasonic Focus Gold Plus 650W) will actually cause problems are rather slim, but I've had some bad experiences with my previous GPU so I'm not willing to take any chances. Short: I'm trying to decide between the RM850x at €130 and the TX750M V2 at €99 or RM750 non-x at €100. I'm leaning towards the RM850x, but I was wondering whether there are any downsides to having a PSU with much more W than I would need (especially if I end up going with the 3070). The RM750x is €3-€4 cheaper than the RM850x so that's a pretty lousy value. Any thoughts are welcome
  4. @Samfisher @Ankerson Would you say the RMx 850 is worth $30 over the TX750M V2?
  5. That's what it did last time, but when I powered it back on shit caught on fire. I use my PC quite heavily and I have a job nowadays, so maybe I should just not be greedy and just get a RM850x. That way I should be fairly sure that I won't need to get a new PSU for 10 years, which would be nice since I'm already on my 3rd in 10 years at the moment (the new one would be the 4th).
  6. Like @Fatih19 said, you are probably better of overhauling your entire system. I'd wait until AMDs cards and the 3060 are out and build a better overall system.
  7. Exactly my point, I don't know. It's in the PSU tier list though... The unit itself is grey, the sticker is black. So much confusion...
  8. So the RM750 is indeed an RM750 grey? I'm not sure what the grey is supposed to represent but I can't find any reference to it or any other PSU.
  9. Hi all, So I found out on the forums that my current PSU (Seasonic focus gold 2018 model) has problems in some scenarios. Normally I wouldn't necessarily care, but since I am planning to upgrade in the coming months and I've had a GPU caught on fire with my previous PSU that could sometimes lead to problems (M12II killed my GTX 950) I think I'll just play it safe and upgrade the PSU as soon as possible. I'd very much prefer to not spend too much since this is the second time I "need" to replace my PSU in less than three years. Here's what I found: - €95 Cooler Masterd MWE Gold 750W - €103 Corsair TX750M V2 - €114 Corsair RM750 (2019) What I am unsure about is whether the two corsair units are the TXM 2017 (Gold) and RM Gray units from the psu tier list, and thus fall in category A. If I'd probably pick one of these units, I guess the TXM since it's gold rated in the psu tier list in stead of blue even though it's cheaper. Which one do you think I should get? I am (very original I know) planning to upgrade to probably the RTX 3070 to replace my 2060 non-super. Cheers, Martijn
  10. Well I can't really see in the future, but my guess is that raytracing will be something that'll grow and be available in most titles, though I don't know in what form. Since both Nvidia and AMD will support raytracing it's a pretty safe bet that it'll be more present in future titles (and older ones like the witcher that get an update for it). As far as the extra time it takes to make it work, as the tech improves I assume the API's will get better to the point where having basic raytracing stuff takes little to no extra effort to implement (I don't know how much extra effort it is at this point, if at all).
  11. Well here's the thing, any computer component you buy now will work for the foreseeable future, so according to that definition basically every component either is future proof or isn't (let's say we ditch pcie slots at some point, that means all GPUs will no longer work, no matter how much you spend). So then future-proofing means buying stuff that will make you not want to upgrade for X amount of time. The term future-proofing is then very vague. How many months or years is X? What is your metric for "not needing to upgrade", is it when you can't run games at ultra 60fps or do you take into account that you will have to drop to medium in Y months/years and then only upgrade say a year later? Then all of a sudden a new technology enters the field (e.g. raytracing), now every old GPU isn't able to run that so does that contribute to whether you need to upgrade, in which case it was impossible to future-proof your PC before the RTX series came out. What I'm getting at that future-proofing is a very vague concept that can't be used in any objective measured terms, so even if you don't hate it (which I don't) it's not something that is helpful in a discussion. If some person says they want to buy a component and they want it to be future-proof, people recommending stuff can't know what future-proof would be to this person. In stead people should say "I'd like to buy a component that can hopefully/probably give me X performance for the next 1-2 years in these scenarios". Still a hard question which you can't answer, but you can at least take a guess.
  12. Not sure about buying Vs building yourself, but I'm wondering why you picked the 1650 with the i7 out of the configurations you listed. What are you using it for and why not the 2700 + 1660?
  13. Welk this really grinds my gears. Used to own a m21ii and when I read about he group-regulated issues I decided to buy a new one. This was back in 2018 and I decided on the 650w focus plus gold... Here's to hoping the issue will not show itself with the 3070 and 3080 I guess. (Has been fine with my 2060)
  14. Hmm it's a bit hard to know whether it's balanced from here, but I would reverse the side fans so you have more air coming in than going out. Then I would run it a while with the bottom intakes and then a while without bottom intakes and see what the difference in temperatures is.
  15. Okay so here is what I would try first, but mind you I don't have your set-up so I'm not sure whether this would be the best option. I would flip the side fans so it takes in air through the radiator, now you have 6 intake fans (3 front and 3 side). Then I'd just keep the 3 top and 1 back exhaust so you have slightly more intakes than exhaust, but seeing as 3 of those intakes need to pull through a radiator your air pressure is pretty balanced. Since all intakes are in the front (or front side) of your PC and your exhausts are in the back and top, there is somewhat of a logical airflow through your PC. What I mean by that is that there is on side where the air enters the case and one side where it exits the case. This is usually what you want, especially if you can direct the airflow over the motherboard.