atoff

You need to have one outlet and one inlet, you have two tubes going into the inlet so there would be no flow in the waterblock. The card needs an inlet and an outlet so the fluid can go in through the inlet  and over the hot parts and out through the outlet.

uhhh.... Don't you have to have the two tubes in the 2 different holes (horizontally), otherwise the water will just go right through and bypass the block?

Huh, that's neat. There's that one in a million useful application for 3d printers

Another tube in... took another day.  
 

So, I've been trying for a while now to get my loop set up.  Ran into a lot of problems, but today I made some progress so thought I'd share.
I'd say my loop is really simple, except for the fact that the res/pump combo is jammed up so close to the GPU and CPU that getting those bends in the tubing just right became a bitch. 
 
First thing I did was 3D printed mandrels / jigs similar to Monsoon's.  For now just 90 and 45 degrees.  Using those alone I couldn't get the tight bends needed for the Res to GPU, so I gave up a little, and posted asking if anyone local would help me out for a fee.  Really the main obstacle is my back.  I have severe back pain, such that I can't stand up for more than several minutes at a time.  Well, since I couldn't find anyone in my area, I decided to think about what I could do differently.  So, I decided since the run from Res to GPU is so short, I'll just create a mandrel in the exact shape.  
 
I measured as precisely as I could the distances in all 3 dimensions, and modeled this mold:
 

 
 
6 1/2 hours later, my printer  created this (took the pic after sanding and using it, so it looks a little abused. )
 
 
 

 
And finally, a bit of success:
 
 

 

 
 
 
The only problem is that I can't tell if it's pushing down on the GPU.  I actually thought I had sanded the tubing too much and that it would be short, but it's really solid, and looking at it, there may be some pressure being put on the card, so I MIGHT try to sand it down further.  Not sure I should mess with it, when it was such a mess trying to get it right.
 
 
Anyway, next step is Res to CPU.  That too has a really tight switch from horizontal to vertical, so I might just create another mold for just that transition.  
 
Thanks for looking.  If you have any advice, input, etc, would love to hear it.

Basically, yeah.  For me, it was really less of a hassle then trying over and over to get those tight angles right.  They're so close together that it just kept failing for various reasons.  I ended up wasting nearly an entire tube trying to get it right.  It also saved my back A LOT from hunching over the case.  It's my first time building a loop, rigid or otherwise.  

Really is teeny tiny!  But I really want rigid tubing.  I'm OCD about things being straight.  I'm sure the soft tubing would look good, and if it comes to it, I might have to go that route, but it can't be too difficult to get this done with rigid tubing.   I'm even looking at fittings, but not sure what would work in such a tight space.
 
I also have 4 tubes that will be much longer runs.  One from my bottom rad to GPU, bottom rad to top rad, top rad to CPU.  
 
 
 
 
Thanks, I've actually 3D printed my own mandrels that I threw together in Solidworks though:
 

Just buy extra tubing even pros doing free hand waste tubing. Performance pc sells a kit thay might help u if u willing to spend extra money
Http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-pro-bender-kit-3-8-x-1-2-13mm.html
P.s they have 2 different sizes of the kit

I too can't help as I am in the UK, otherwise I would lend a hand bud...
 
Just taking a look at your screenie though, the plan for your loop looks to be teenie tiny.
 
Considering you have already purchased the hard tubing & fittings I know its probably off the table but... Have you considered soft tubing like Primochill 19/13mm clear?
 
No bending involved and over the distance in your screen shots the tubing would easily support itself without drooping.
 
D,

i can't help but here's a video on paul and jay doing it. 
 

I have a couple of Pi's.  Make a DIY ambilight clone!  I love mine, which uses Hyperion.  Have about 100+ LED's behind my TV (65").  Looks something like this:
 

It's a bit close but as long as it's not starved for fresh air and it shouldn't be a problem. Looks like things are moving along quite nicely.

Well, good news, I got the bracket ring to rotate!  A little time in my freezer did the trick.   Now it's down to a stable surface to mount on (should be able to figure that out), and the radiator being in the way.  I'll have to put the radiator holes at the front, which is unfortunate, but it would still be too thick... so I'm thinking I should go with the UT30 (30mm thick) 360mm instead of the 60mm XSPC I wanted.    Need to think about it though.  Everything I'm reading says thickness isn't so important, so maybe it won't matter.

Tried tapping it a bit with a rubber mallet, still not budging, so yeah, I think the next step is to contact XSPC.  Unfortunately they're slow with replies, and we have a long weekend, Monday being a holiday... so more waiting for my poor PC.  Thanks for all the help though, I appreciate you taking the time. 

I've personally never used the Enermax fans but I do have a set of the Corsair QE which work well from experience and are fairly quiet for the most part. As for the GPU waterblock I personally like EKWB their stuff is top notch. 
 
Overall everything looks great, a word of advice for filling up the XSPC combo unit get a syringe it helps a lot when filling.

I haven't used enermax fans, but they look nice and people use them so they must be good. Corsair fans were a little loud for my taste but they perform well and aren't that loud. If you want cheaper Swiftech Helix's are quite good and are about $8 USD from performance pcs.
 
For waterblocks just use what looks better for you, I think the EK is supposed to be marginally better, but the difference was so small I wouldn't worry about it. Rest of you list looks good, good luck with the rigid build.

Yeah, I'm starting to rethink where I put the 240 radiator for that reason.  I can put it in the front, but then I'd have to take out the big fan in front, and I'd have no air intake.  I guess I could mount 2 140mm's at the bottom for intake, but I'd be sucking up all the dust.  Like I said, tricky!  
 
Some of my parts came in today... radiator, cpu block, other minor parts, so almost there.

For the Pump combo unit unfortunately you will not be able to separate with an adapter like some others but the pump removable for maintenance and if you need to replace it since it's just screwed on with a large compression ring. As for hard tubing cost wise it's not too far off from soft tubing but it's more labor and time since all the bends need to be made and if anything needs to be changed in the system new pieces will most likely need to be created. 
 
I currently don't have my side panels on I'm still waiting on a cable splitter before closing things up again:
http://linustechtips.com/main/uploads/gallery/album_1149/gallery_4038_1149_803542.jpg

If your pressed for space you can get those rad adapters to mount the reservoir on the front rad but you will need to remove that aluminum backplate to allow for extra flow and use only the top and middle ring to hold up the pump/res. GL though love to see it built up. (:

It was actually really quite when I first installed it.  I had to put my hand on the pump to make sure it was running.  After a few days, that's when the "magic" happened, and it started sounding like a fishtank.  
 
Anyway, I think I'm going to go with this kit: http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-raystorm-d5-photon-ax240-watercooling-kit-19205.html
 
I tried pricing everything separately, but couldn't get it that low.  The one with v2 radiator is $20 cheaper, but I don't know, might do that.  I really wanted that fancy block I posted.  It's too bad I can't swap it out with the block that comes with the kit.  

Kind of says it all about religion.  I'm Agnostic as well. 

Luckkyyyy, they came with your motherboard, I had to purchase a 3-pack from the ASUS store.  
Honestly place them wherever you want, but there's nothing really critical that you need to monitor that isn't already monitored.  You could monitor your in-case temperatures in different zones, or tape it to the back of a reservoir if you're doing water cooling.  I can't remember if Fan Xpert allows you to change fan speeds based on thermistors yet, I feel like it might.  In that case you could base your fan speeds in different zones on their respective temperatures.  
There are quite a number of options, have fun 

This is all making me want to get into custom watercooling.   :angry:  
 
Excellent job!  

+1 A majority of good ASUS boards stand out, that's how I can always tell its an ASUS board.
If you want to complain about anything, how about them speaker plug colours blurgh

I never install anti-virus anymore.  I've used them all over the years, with Avast having been my favorite, but they all bog you down after a while.  Now I just hash check when I download, or read comments on suspicious downloads.  I'll run Malwarebytes occasionally just to make sure I'm good.  
 
But the very first thing I do is also install Chrome.  Gotta download those drivers using an appropriate browser.