Over Engineered Simple PETG Rigid Loop

[atoff]

So, I've been trying for a while now to get my loop set up.  Ran into a lot of problems, but today I made some progress so thought I'd share.
I'd say my loop is really simple, except for the fact that the res/pump combo is jammed up so close to the GPU and CPU that getting those bends in the tubing just right became a bitch. 
 
First thing I did was 3D printed mandrels / jigs similar to Monsoon's.  For now just 90 and 45 degrees.  Using those alone I couldn't get the tight bends needed for the Res to GPU, so I gave up a little, and posted asking if anyone local would help me out for a fee.  Really the main obstacle is my back.  I have severe back pain, such that I can't stand up for more than several minutes at a time.  Well, since I couldn't find anyone in my area, I decided to think about what I could do differently.  So, I decided since the run from Res to GPU is so short, I'll just create a mandrel in the exact shape.  
 
I measured as precisely as I could the distances in all 3 dimensions, and modeled this mold:
 

 

 

6 1/2 hours later, my printer  created this (took the pic after sanding and using it, so it looks a little abused. )

 

 

 

 

And finally, a bit of success:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The only problem is that I can't tell if it's pushing down on the GPU.  I actually thought I had sanded the tubing too much and that it would be short, but it's really solid, and looking at it, there may be some pressure being put on the card, so I MIGHT try to sand it down further.  Not sure I should mess with it, when it was such a mess trying to get it right.

 

 

Anyway, next step is Res to CPU.  That too has a really tight switch from horizontal to vertical, so I might just create another mold for just that transition.  

 

Thanks for looking.  If you have any advice, input, etc, would love to hear it.

[Interfectorem]

So it's basically a bending guide / template that you designed? That's pretty neat and it seems like it facilitates clean bends, although was it worth the hassle?

[atoff]

So it's basically a bending guide / template that you designed? That's pretty neat and it seems like it facilitates clean bends, although was it worth the hassle?

 

 

Basically, yeah.  For me, it was really less of a hassle then trying over and over to get those tight angles right.  They're so close together that it just kept failing for various reasons.  I ended up wasting nearly an entire tube trying to get it right.  It also saved my back A LOT from hunching over the case.  It's my first time building a loop, rigid or otherwise.  

[atoff]

Another tube in... took another day.  

 

[Norman_the_Owl]

Huh, that's neat. There's that one in a million useful application for 3d printers

[atoff]

Huh, that's neat. There's that one in a million useful application for 3d printers

 

Thanks.  Yeah, it had been collecting dust for about a year now, it's nice to have it out of retirement.  I'd probably use it more if the fumes didn't irritate me so much.  They're mostly harmless, but they stuff me up pretty badly.  

[skyress3000]

Another tube in... took another day.  

 

[snip]

uhhh.... Don't you have to have the two tubes in the 2 different holes (horizontally), otherwise the water will just go right through and bypass the block?

[Jaybird]

So, I've been trying for a while now to get my loop set up.  Ran into a lot of problems, but today I made some progress so thought I'd share.

I'd say my lo

 

what printer do you have? I got the simple metal a few weeks ago. 

[atoff]

uhhh.... Don't you have to have the two tubes in the 2 different holes (horizontally), otherwise the water will just go right through and bypass the block?

 

I really really hope not.  The manual says that you can use any port for the inlet / outlet (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109869253.pdf).   Is it wrong?

 

 

what printer do you have? I got the simple metal a few weeks ago. 

 

I have the Rostock Max V2.   I've actually been considering the simple metal because of its manageable size.  But I think I might sell off the rostock and buy something that's enclosed.    How are you liking the printrbot? 

[Jaybird]

I really really hope not.  The manual says that you can use any port for the inlet / outlet (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109869253.pdf).   Is it wrong?

 

 

 

I have the Rostock Max V2.   I've actually been considering the simple metal because of its manageable size.  But I think I might sell off the rostock and buy something that's enclosed.    How are you liking the printrbot?

Is decent for the price but if I had a larger budget I would have gotten one were only the print head moved and gotten the heated bed. Tall prints have a tendency to detach as the wobble a lot and the warping from a non heated bed is killing me. I've been looking at buying a pcb heater and some glass and attaching that to the print bed somehow.

[gazabi]

I really really hope not.  The manual says that you can use any port for the inlet / outlet (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109869253.pdf).   Is it wrong?

 

 

 

I have the Rostock Max V2.   I've actually been considering the simple metal because of its manageable size.  But I think I might sell off the rostock and buy something that's enclosed.    How are you liking the printrbot? 

You need to have one outlet and one inlet, you have two tubes going into the inlet so there would be no flow in the waterblock. The card needs an inlet and an outlet so the fluid can go in through the inlet  and over the hot parts and out through the outlet.

[atoff]

Is decent for the price but if I had a larger budget I would have gotten one were only the print head moved and gotten the heated bed. Tall prints have a tendency to detach as the wobble a lot and the warping from a non heated bed is killing me. I've been looking at buying a pcb heater and some glass and attaching that to the print bed somehow.

 

Oh, yeah, the heated bed is a must, and I think the fact that the bed moved was one of the things that had me shy away from it myself.   Delta's are really nice machines, and the rostock produces some nice prints, but the downside is having to calibrate and compensate for the circular bed.   I want something smaller and enclosed.  Maybe something like the Flashforge Pro. 

 

Also, if you do pick up a heated bed for it, try some PEI attached to the glass, or on its own, if the sheet is thick enough.  Works really well as a surface.  No more prepping with glue or tape, and no more cleanup.  

[atoff]

You need to have one outlet and one inlet, you have two tubes going into the inlet so there would be no flow in the waterblock. The card needs an inlet and an outlet so the fluid can go in through the inlet  and over the hot parts and out through the outlet.

 

 man, you don't know how let down I am right now.  I thought I was nearly finished.  My back is just destroyed today from all the work I did on it.  Then, when I unscrewed the primochill fittings to check the card, I scratched the crap out of my PETG.  So basically all of my work has been for nothing.  But thanks for the info, and Skyress for pointing it out.  Better now then after I fill it. 

[Jaybird]

Oh, yeah, the heated bed is a must, and I think the fact that the bed moved was one of the things that had me shy away from it myself.   Delta's are really nice machines, and the rostock produces some nice prints, but the downside is having to calibrate and compensate for the circular bed.   I want something smaller and enclosed.  Maybe something like the Flashforge Pro. 

 

Also, if you do pick up a heated bed for it, try some PEI attached to the glass, or on its own, if the sheet is thick enough.  Works really well as a surface.  No more prepping with glue or tape, and no more cleanup.

What is the pei you speak of? I've been trying to do research on better print beds and so far the material is very inconclusive, most being self advertising. By the way your prints look really fantastic!

[gazabi]

 man, you don't know how let down I am right now.  I thought I was nearly finished.  My back is just destroyed today from all the work I did on it.  Then, when I unscrewed the primochill fittings to check the card, I scratched the crap out of my PETG.  So basically all of my work has been for nothing.  But thanks for the info, and Skyress for pointing it out.  Better now then after I fill it. 

That sucks, better knowing now than when your card overheats or something.

[atoff]

What is the pei you speak of? I've been trying to do research on better print beds and so far the material is very inconclusive, most being self advertising. By the way your prints look really fantastic!

 

Thanks.     PEI is really nice stuff.  These are the sheets http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY, you basically use some very strong heat resistant adhesive to semi-permanently attach it to a glass plate.  Both PLA and ABS stick really well, no glue / tape needed.   Check out this thread for more info http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=4336.   I've been using it for about a year.  Once in a while I'll wipe it with alcohol, but other than that, no maintenance.  

 

That sucks, better knowing now than when your card overheats or something.

 

Absolutely.  I've ordered some fittings just now to try and get it to work.  There's no way of doing it with rigid tubing, it's just way too close together.  

[Jaybird]

Thanks.     PEI is really nice stuff.  These are the sheets http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY, you basically use some very strong heat resistant adhesive to semi-permanently attach it to a glass plate.  Both PLA and ABS stick really well, no glue / tape needed.   Check out this thread for more info http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=4336.   I've been using it for about a year.  Once in a while I'll wipe it with alcohol, but other than that, no maintenance.  

 

 

Absolutely.  I've ordered some fittings just now to try and get it to work.  There's no way of doing it with rigid tubing, it's just way too close together.

Oh wow! That's really nice. I'll be reading that thread before I go to bed. Also, those sheets are crazy expensive. Thanks for the enlightenment.

[atoff]

Oh wow! That's really nice. I'll be reading that thread before I go to bed. Also, those sheets are crazy expensive. Thanks for the enlightenment.

 

They are a bit yeah, but definitely worth it.  I think 0.6 inches is what we all use on our Rostocks.  It's listed as $30, but I think I paid like $20, I believe from McMaster.  

[atoff]

Well, I've pretty much finished my loop.
 
I ended up using fittings for the 2 really short runs.  It was impossible to get perfect 90 deg bends so close to each other.
I've also filled it with Mayhems Clear UV Blue.   I don't have have UV lights set up yet, but I've been playing with a little UV LED to check for leaks.  
 
Here are some pics.
 

 

Oh, forgot to mention.  I'm waiting on EVGA to approve my step-up to the 980ti, which is why the second card isn't connected to the loop.  I didn't want to waste money on cooling it, and I'm sure it would have no longer been eligible if I had.