TVwazhere

The only other one I've seen do it is Lian LI with their PC-O11D EVO

Ah, you're one of those people

Probably. Mechanical "feel" is about what I'd expect for this

...And a keyboard? That's new. I cant find any details on the keyboard though (is it wireless? how is the RGB controlled? Full membrane keys or hybrid? etc...)

No, thankfully. The rubber mats caught it all I believe (the carpet wasn't wet at any point) I've been careful to try not to let any break fluid linger on any surface or touch the paint ever. Dont need holes behind the gas pedal lol

Brake fluid in the foot well and/or squeaky clutch. Pedal feel is fine, but it just slowly leak into the cabin. Admittedly I let mine go for too Long (December - March) but at least it's not a "change it or you'll literally blow your engine in 0.37 seconds"

@Real_PhillBert @NinJake don't know if you guys still have your ST's but be prepared to potentially have to replace your master clutch cylinder if you haven't already. In hindsight this job wasn't the absolute worst. Taking out the air box and battery box is annoying but doable. The bolts holding the pedal assembly are a little hard to get to but with the right(very long) extensions and a universal joint, they'll come out. (Yes I need to clean my interior) Be careful not to break the sensors (like I did) sadly the top sensor is impossible to install on the bracket before reinstalling it on the car, so you gotta put the new assembly in first, then install the top sensor with your arm elbow deep into the dash from underneath. Worst part for me was bleeding the clutch. I had no pressure in the clutch bleeding it all the "normal" ways, and even renting a vacuum bleeder pump until I ordered a power bleeder for the brake fluid resevior. All in all, worst project I've ever had to do in the car, but I knew that going into this so I made sure to take breaks from being back down with my head under the dash for extended periods of time.

I'm on team "Headlights are too bright" especially those that don't properly push the low beams down into the road rather than up into the eyes of other drivers. I used to think this was just an issue with owners changing out perfectly working bulbs for cheap LED headlights that scatter light everywhere, but my friends new (2020) Toyota corolla definitely has the cutoff be basically horizontal with the hood of the car instead of tilted down at the road. When shopping for new fog lights I was scared to go LED, but I found good ones that are designed to worlk with my weirdly shaped rectangular ones (Diode Dynamics) and even have a yellow option.

Very weird that the overview shows 2 fan slots at the bottom of the case, but the Tech specs dont list any fan compatibility at the bottom. Looking at this layout and PCPP, I think this would be the best layout. https://pcpartpicker.com/b/VmZZxr (Watercooled) https://pcpartpicker.com/b/KwfPxr (Air Cooled) Typically, the key in this situation is making the bottom (intake) fans spin faster than the top/Rear fans (exhaust) Though this rule can be broken in this case specifically because this case is entirely dust filter-y mesh everywhere, so a small negative air pressure wouldn't be the worst thing.

My head fucking hurts, but I still found it interesting

Compared to every other AM5 motherboard ont he market currently, this one felt like the best value for the features I actually wanted and cared abou t(lots of USB's, SPDIF, an EZ-Debug code reader, multiple PCI-E drive locations and a good price.) Personally dont care about RGB on a motherboard or how much armor it has. For reference, I found this spreadsheet which helped me easily compare feature sets.

It will fit. "E-ATX" is mainly a garbage marketing term for any board officially longer than ATX (9.6" / 244mm), the only official board size longer than ATX is SSI-CEB (10.5", which is what the AsRock Taichi is), and SSI-EEB (13" / 330mm) which is "True E-ATX" (it has a fourth set of standoff supports) This photo below shows how much room is with the ATX board, 1" / 25mm will not cause an interference fit and barly cause issues with the rubber grommets. Photo Source As a Side note, I purchased the B650E Taichi lite, and saved $150 to get rid of all that "Armor" which does nothing. Literally the same board, and is a decent value at $250-280, but terrible at $400.

Yes; AutoCAD does not heavily use a GPU for any of it's processes other than outputting the resulting images (your UI) so the main thing is AutoCAD (SketchUp as well) have a high IPC, high speed single core requirement. More cores dont help unfortunately.

Phew I just made it!