sykotikman

You'd probably be better off asking closer to Black Friday, as this thread will be long forgotten by then.
Black Friday is definitely what I'd wait for, if you're able.

A tiny bit of air is a good thing to not have any pressure issues.

That's what got me thinking , i know manufacturers do this , so it must be for a reason ( expansion ) 
think ill take a tiny bit of air out just to be on the safe side ..
 
and yea 6 year is good going , it might not look the prettiest  AIO  but (in Jayz words ) it is built like a tank lol
 
    

That's not that old. My first gen Corsair H100 is still cooling my overclocked 3930k to this day. It's 9 years old @SpiderMan

Wouldn't do much of a difference. Keep the fastest memory in the Ryzen build, it benefits more from faster memory, than the intel build.

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/

LOL , yes i do ,
it was just the heat i worried about , but doesn't seem to be an issue .
Thanks  

Backplates are almost always an aesthetic thing, not really worth it if you're looking for performance improvements.

I dont thinks its a CPU, but rather a mainboard problem.
 
Maybe try to reflash the BIOS and see if that fixes it. That worked for me on a ASUS X470 Prime board which also had some problems

The only thing you have to do is enable the profile1 in XMP through the BIOS to run at the rated speed. All DDR4 RAM runs at 2133mhz out of the box. The advertised speed is the speed in which it can be guaranteed to reach through XMP.

It's not mandatory but it's wasted performance. High speed and tight timings can result in a good 5-10% boost when comboned

My previous chip was a Ryzen 2600 with 3200mhz RAM and it performed fantastic. Cannot comment on the difference between 3000 vs 3200 but there should be a slight improvement with 3200.

Ryzen RAM compatibility is great these days. No need to worry. And yes, 3200 will give you slightly better performance provided you tighten timings

You can't use thermal paste it needs to be thermal tape or epoxy. I recommend to usually use tape since it's somewhat easy to remove compared to epoxy. 
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Interface-Products-Heat-Sink/dp/B00QSHPH8E/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1532905174&sr=1-4&keywords=thermal+tape&dpID=41HriydmQUL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
 

Distilled/deionized water with a couple of drops copper sulfate.
Never need to change the water if your loop is clean, only copper/nickel and the tubing doesn't bleach plasticizer.

I have been using EK Cryofuel. Clear in my old soft tubing build and Blood Red in my current rigid tubing build. The clear is a bit yellow-ish, not clear like distilled water. Bother times I've used it, it seems to leave outlines on the inside of the reservoir where air bubbles were as well as a line around the fluid level. Not sure if this from the coolant's exposure to air or something in it, but it wipes away when cleaning so I don't think it's permanent. It's nothing to worry about functionally but it just makes the inside of the reservoir (and maybe plexi blocks) look a little dirty IMO. 
 
It's weird that EK specifically says not to use chemicals like Mayhems Blitz to clean you system prior to using Cryofuel or even the common white vinegar mix to clean your radiators. They recommend just flushing your rads with distilled water and nothing else, so that's something to keep in mind.

I believe so unless you edit all the bios values to do what your fan curve is doing.
You can minimize afterburner to the system tray, thats what I would recommend.

Oh you don't have "auto" enabled, enable it and it should fix it.
 
 
Also remember to make your fan curve look like this:
 

Thank you for the advice
didn't think about turning the rear fan around and having two fans coming in and the combo of the rad and 2 fans blowing the air out .
 
cheers

Id say mount the fans above the radiator pulling air out. That way you work with convection and it allows for easier cleaning of the radiator by just hoovering it from below. Performance wise push and pull are pretty much equal.
To optimize case pressure, turn the fan in the back around making it an intake. Not you have one 120 and one 200 fan pulling in and two 120 fans pulling out, giving you slightly positive pressure inside the case, making it harder for dust to get inside.
In case the aerocool fans that come with the case are too loud, you could still swap them for the two corsair af's.