Custom Water Loop Aquarium Cooler Addition?

[Daharen]

So to be clear, my goal is NOT to get sub-zero, and ideally I don't want to get anywhere near the dew point, but I am aiming for at least 'cooler' and if I could get sub-ambient that would be great.

I am specifically wondering if adding a CSXC-1 Aquarium Chiller (https://www.liveaquaria.com/product/4571/chill-solutions-csxc-1-aquarium-chiller?pcatid=4571&c=3753+3993+3995+4571) after the radiator, but before returning to the CPU and GPU blocks, without removing my existing pump, radiator, cpu, or gpu blocks, will help lower the temperature, and yield 'some' or 'reasonable' performance gains. If there is some disadvantage I can't think of I would like to know, if I need to add special controllers, or if there is insufficient gains to even make it worth it, that's totally fine. I'm completely cool with being called a newb, I just want to know the practicality of bothering with this sort of thing.

My current rig:
- Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7
- 8700k
- 2080 ti 
- 16x2 Ripjaw 3200

The Motherboard PCB's are aircooled with a spot cooler
The 8700k is overclocked to 5.3 Ghz at 1.35 v with a NudeCNC Ncore V2 Naked Die Cooler (Obviously delidded)
For now EKWB hasn't created a water block for the EVGA FTW3 Ultra PCB, so it's still using the custom cooler from EVGA and not connected to the water loop.
The two sticks of RAM part of the water loop using EKWB ram sinks. 
EKWB coolant from concentrate,
Aphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm x 60mm radiator
Nanoxia Deep S 120mm PWM fans x4
12mm Soft tubing
700 ml EK Resevoir
and a
EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial Pump

If additional information is needed I'll gladly provide it, thanks in advance.

[Neo-revo]

15 minutes ago, Daharen said:

If additional information is needed I'll gladly provide it, thanks in advance.

do a shower head evaporator waterloop,   Its open and requires monitoring of the water level, but once you get your setup figured out you can easily get sub ambient readings because of how the science of water vapor works.

 

only down side is you would need an dehumidifier to maintain performance or as the tower does its job the humidity in your ' room' will rise and  you will cool the water in the loop less

[Shimejii]

Honestly? its a LOT of wasted effort for practically speaking little performance gains. Going from 40C to 60 C nets you a few power steps, and that results in 10-20 mhz. So going further then that you only gain a few dozen mhz each time. Not really worth all the effort, testing, and issues that could happen

[W-L]

1 hour ago, Daharen said:

-SNIP-

It's essentially a plug and go peliter cooler with a controller for trying to maintain temps. At the cost of that unit and how inefficient peliter (TEC) coolers are I personally would say it's not worth it for a marginal amount of gain as mentioned.