UPS Sugession

[Hiro Hamada]

Its been 4 days since I'm using my new pc and I have rare power cuts at this season. I although I'm looking for a decent UPS but most of them have 3 star ratings in most of the websites. Can you please suggest me a nice UPS for my PC

 

My PSU is TX750M from Corsair

[WereCatf]

Your PSU is irrelevant, you need to find out how many watts your PC consumes. Get yourself a watt-meter and find out, then come back.

[Amazonsucks]

Or just tell us the specs and what country you live in. APC is usually one of the best options, and even their low end stuff is sine wave now. BackUPS are their lower to mid range desktop UPS. The newer ones are sine wave. The SmartUPS line is their high end line interactive or online UPS series.

 

Theres no need for a Watt meter unless he plans on cutting it so close that he shouldn't buy one that close to the margin anyway.

[Windows7ge]

APC has a good UPS reputation. You could look into the Pro 1300. I think it can deliver 780 watts. There's lower versions which are less expensive but deliver less. Honestly unless you're running an overclocked 8 core & a couple overclocked AMD GPUs you won't hit the full rating of your PSU.

[Hiro Hamada]

19 minutes ago, WereCatf said:

Your PSU is irrelevant, you need to find out how many watts your PC consumes. Get yourself a watt-meter and find out, then come back.

My build as follows

 

MSI ATX Z370A PRO

Intel i7 8700K

8GB RAM 2400Hz × 1 (Another 8GB I am going to purchase later)

Corsair H45 Cooler

Corsair TX750M PSU

GTX 1070Ti (Not yet purchased yet but soon)

 

NZXT Phantom 530Case

 

[Hiro Hamada]

19 minutes ago, Amazonsucks said:

Or just tell us the specs and what country you live in. APC is usually one of the best options, and even their low end stuff is sine wave now. BackUPS are their lower to mid range desktop UPS. The newer ones are sine wave. The SmartUPS line is their high end line interactive or online UPS series.

 

Theres no need for a Watt meter unless he plans on cutting it so close that he shouldn't buy one that close to the margin anyway.

My build as follows

 

MSI ATX Z370A PRO

Intel i7 8700K

8GB RAM 2400Hz × 1 (Another 8GB I am going to purchase later)

Corsair H45 Cooler

Corsair TX750M PSU

GTX 1070Ti (Not yet purchased yet but soon)

 

NZXT Phantom 530Case

[Hiro Hamada]

21 minutes ago, Amazonsucks said:

Or just tell us the specs and what country you live in. APC is usually one of the best options, and even their low end stuff is sine wave now. BackUPS are their lower to mid range desktop UPS. The newer ones are sine wave. The SmartUPS line is their high end line interactive or online UPS series.

 

Theres no need for a Watt meter unless he plans on cutting it so close that he shouldn't buy one that close to the margin anyway.

My country - India

[Amazonsucks]

https://www.apc.com/shop/in/en/products/APC-Power-Saving-Back-UPS-Pro-1000-with-LCD-230V-India/P-BR1000G-IN

[EsaT]

1 hour ago, Hiro Hamada said:

My build as follows

 

MSI ATX Z370A PRO

Intel i7 8700K

8GB RAM 2400Hz × 1 (Another 8GB I am going to purchase later)

Corsair H45 Cooler

Corsair TX750M PSU

GTX 1070Ti (Not yet purchased yet but soon)

 

NZXT Phantom 530Case

Even non-reference 1070 Tis seem to max at 200W.

Then with that puny water hype cooler you're not going to do much overclocking.

Hence 100W is pretty safe value for CPU draw, especially considering games don't cause full CPU load. (and anything fully laoding CPU is unlikely to fully load GPU)

So unless you're using some huge TV in place of monitor 400W is good value for overall power draw.

And let's throw in 100W margin just in case ending to round 500W.

 

So UPS which has watt rating of 500 is enough.

If you want battery capacity to be enough for longer power cuts, then bigger model can be good.

Though particular models in line up with increase in battery capacity vary between makers/product line.

 

VA/Volt-Ampere rating, which also ends up to model numbers, is completely meaningless for modern PCs with power factor correction equipped PSUs.

Every honest UPS maker should have watt rating clearly specified, but if not it should be 60% of VA marketing number.

For that APC Back-UPS Pro 1000 watt rating is that 600W.
 

Also it has your local power sockets accepting normal power cables.

Most UPSes have IEC sockets and your normal power cables of PC and monitor wouldn't fit to it.

 

 

3 hours ago, Amazonsucks said:

APC is usually one of the best options, and even their low end stuff is sine wave now. BackUPS are their lower to mid range desktop UPS. The newer ones are sine wave.

Except for few US models APCs below Smart-UPS line produce usual "modified/simulated/stepped approximation/what ever" marketing sine wave meaning modified square wave.

[Amazonsucks]

Until now. The one i linked was square wave but this new BackUPS line is sine wave. The one i linked is also 1000VA and 600W.

 

Heres one of their new lower end sine wave models.

 

http://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/Back-UPS-PRO-BR-1500VA-SineWave-10-Outlets-2-USB-Charging-Ports-AVR-LCD-interface/P-BR1500MS?isCurrentSite=true

[Hiro Hamada]

21 hours ago, EsaT said:

Even non-reference 1070 Tis seem to max at 200W.

Then with that puny water hype cooler you're not going to do much overclocking.

Hence 100W is pretty safe value for CPU draw, especially considering games don't cause full CPU load. (and anything fully laoding CPU is unlikely to fully load GPU)

So unless you're using some huge TV in place of monitor 400W is good value for overall power draw.

And let's throw in 100W margin just in case ending to round 500W.

 

So UPS which has watt rating of 500 is enough.

If you want battery capacity to be enough for longer power cuts, then bigger model can be good.

Though particular models in line up with increase in battery capacity vary between makers/product line.

 

VA/Volt-Ampere rating, which also ends up to model numbers, is completely meaningless for modern PCs with power factor correction equipped PSUs.

Every honest UPS maker should have watt rating clearly specified, but if not it should be 60% of VA marketing number.

For that APC Back-UPS Pro 1000 watt rating is that 600W.
 

Also it has your local power sockets accepting normal power cables.

Most UPSes have IEC sockets and your normal power cables of PC and monitor wouldn't fit to it.

 

 

Except for few US models APCs below Smart-UPS line produce usual "modified/simulated/stepped approximation/what ever" marketing sine wave meaning modified square wave.

Great! Now i got a question. My PSU is a 750W PSU and is it good if I connect a 600W UPS to it, will the PSU fail? Or will there be any problems?

[Amazonsucks]

24 minutes ago, Hiro Hamada said:

Great! Now i got a question. My PSU is a 750W PSU and is it good if I connect a 600W UPS to it, will the PSU fail? Or will there be any problems?

Given your specifications, its unlikely that youre using more than 350W with the monitor, so a 1000VoltAmp 600W UPS like the one i linked is fine.

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Hiro Hamada said:

Great! Now i got a question. My PSU is a 750W PSU and is it good if I connect a 600W UPS to it, will the PSU fail? Or will there be any problems?

The 750w specification is the MAX that the psu can supply to your components, it doesn't mean that it is drawing 750w from the wall all the time.

Your specs use about 350W of power, so it pulls about 420 W from the wall (if the psu efficiency is 80%).

[Hiro Hamada]

9 hours ago, Some Random Member said:

The 750w specification is the MAX that the psu can supply to your components, it doesn't mean that it is drawing 750w from the wall all the time.

Your specs use about 350W of power, so it pulls about 420 W from the wall (if the psu efficiency is 80%).

Thats good. I got a titsy little problem. I'm getting shock all over my NZXT Phantom 530 Case and especially via USB ports when I connect my external hdd I got a shock when I touched the surface of my hdd...Is there a solution to rectify this problem?

[Hiro Hamada]

On 7/15/2018 at 1:32 AM, EsaT said:

Even non-reference 1070 Tis seem to max at 200W.

Then with that puny water hype cooler you're not going to do much overclocking.

Hence 100W is pretty safe value for CPU draw, especially considering games don't cause full CPU load. (and anything fully laoding CPU is unlikely to fully load GPU)

So unless you're using some huge TV in place of monitor 400W is good value for overall power draw.

And let's throw in 100W margin just in case ending to round 500W.

 

So UPS which has watt rating of 500 is enough.

If you want battery capacity to be enough for longer power cuts, then bigger model can be good.

Though particular models in line up with increase in battery capacity vary between makers/product line.

 

VA/Volt-Ampere rating, which also ends up to model numbers, is completely meaningless for modern PCs with power factor correction equipped PSUs.

Every honest UPS maker should have watt rating clearly specified, but if not it should be 60% of VA marketing number.

For that APC Back-UPS Pro 1000 watt rating is that 600W.
 

Also it has your local power sockets accepting normal power cables.

Most UPSes have IEC sockets and your normal power cables of PC and monitor wouldn't fit to it.

 

 

Except for few US models APCs below Smart-UPS line produce usual "modified/simulated/stepped approximation/what ever" marketing sine wave meaning modified square wave.

Thats good. I got a titsy little problem. I'm getting shock all over my NZXT Phantom 530 Case and especially via USB ports when I connect my external hdd I got a shock when I touched the surface of my hdd...Is there a solution to rectify this problem?

[W-L]

23 minutes ago, Hiro Hamada said:

Thats good. I got a titsy little problem. I'm getting shock all over my NZXT Phantom 530 Case and especially via USB ports when I connect my external hdd I got a shock when I touched the surface of my hdd...Is there a solution to rectify this problem?

If your getting shocked by touching the case at all your going to want to check your connections and wiring to ensure it's all proper grounded including the plug in the wall. It can be potentially dangerous if mains power was to short and potentially make contact with the case. 

[Hiro Hamada]

2 hours ago, W-L said:

If your getting shocked by touching the case at all your going to want to check your connections and wiring to ensure it's all proper grounded including the plug in the wall. It can be potentially dangerous if mains power was to short and potentially make contact with the case. 

How to check that? I don't know how... All plugs were properly connected and I don't see shock from my refregirator so I dont know whats causing this problem. Maybe I should rewire the entire case again(remove everything and assemble it again). Will this shock thingy damage my motherboard? I've been using my pc for a week now and I don't see any problems in the circuit or the hardware. Is there anything that I should be concerned about other than getting shock?

[Amazonsucks]

2 hours ago, Hiro Hamada said:

How to check that? I don't know how... All plugs were properly connected and I don't see shock from my refregirator so I dont know whats causing this problem. Maybe I should rewire the entire case again(remove everything and assemble it again). Will this shock thingy damage my motherboard? I've been using my pc for a week now and I don't see any problems in the circuit or the hardware. Is there anything that I should be concerned about other than getting shock?

Is the outlet grounded(earthed) properly? 

 

You should never get shocked from touching appliances or electronics. 

 

If things arent grounded its a shock and fire hazard, as well as potentially damaging the electronics.

[EsaT]

On 7/16/2018 at 9:36 AM, Hiro Hamada said:

How to check that? I don't know how... All plugs were properly connected and I don't see shock from my refregirator so I dont know whats causing this problem. Maybe I should rewire the entire case again(remove everything and assemble it again). Will this shock thingy damage my motherboard? I've been using my pc for a week now and I don't see any problems in the circuit or the hardware. Is there anything that I should be concerned about other than getting shock?

Internal voltages of PC produced PSU can never be felt: They're simply too low voltage.

Just like only way to feel that 9V battery is if you stick tongue to terminals.

 

Electricity which can be felt by touching surface with hand has lot higher voltage.

And outlet lacking grounding is likely cause.

Without ground connection line filtering components of PSU form voltage divider, causing case float half way between live and neutral.

Which is 110V for 220V mains voltage.

Those components just limit current low enough that it's not harmfull to human.

But connecting other mains powered devices to PC (especially with power on) can cause risk of used port getting damaged, with case grounded through cable.

[W-L]

On 2018-07-16 at 2:36 AM, Hiro Hamada said:

How to check that? I don't know how... All plugs were properly connected and I don't see shock from my refregirator so I dont know whats causing this problem. Maybe I should rewire the entire case again(remove everything and assemble it again). Will this shock thingy damage my motherboard? I've been using my pc for a week now and I don't see any problems in the circuit or the hardware. Is there anything that I should be concerned about other than getting shock?

It’s more of a safety issue than anything else but you can get a socket tester to see if there is a fault with the way it was wired up in the wall.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_bs_img_1/134-9469697-9886710?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KTJ7SDCGTRM4X7Q8M2PD

[Hiro Hamada]

On 7/16/2018 at 2:58 PM, Amazonsucks said:

Is the outlet grounded(earthed) properly? 

 

You should never get shocked from touching appliances or electronics. 

 

If things arent grounded its a shock and fire hazard, as well as potentially damaging the electronics.

Thanks I'm very very glad that you guys suggest me to ground properly. Amd guess what happened

 

1. I called an electrician

2. He checked the PC/USB Ports and the socket

3. He said the phase current was coming out of the usb port itself

4. He also said there is absolutely zero grounding in my socket plug point

5. We bought a few things for grounding(a long hollow steel rod, naked copper wire and copper wire)

6. He twisted the naked copper wire on the rod and planted it deep inside the mud (5ft) and connected the other end of the wire to the PC plug point

7. Now no current shock from now

8. My PC is safe as (censored)

9. But I still got a few questions I dont understand

 

As........

1. If so much of current is being drawn to earth/ground, then will I get a huge electricity bill at the end of the month?

2. Is non-grounding same as electrostatic discharge?

[Hiro Hamada]

5 hours ago, W-L said:

It’s more of a safety issue than anything else but you can get a socket tester to see if there is a fault with the way it was wired up in the wall.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_bs_img_1/134-9469697-9886710?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KTJ7SDCGTRM4X7Q8M2PD

 

Thanks I'm very very glad that you guys suggest me to ground properly. Amd guess what happened

 

1. I called an electrician

2. He checked the PC/USB Ports and the socket

3. He said the phase current was coming out of the usb port itself

4. He also said there is absolutely zero grounding in my socket plug point

5. We bought a few things for grounding(a long hollow steel rod, naked copper wire and copper wire)

6. He twisted the naked copper wire on the rod and planted it deep inside the mud (5ft) and connected the other end of the wire to the PC plug point

7. Now no current shock from now

8. My PC is safe as (censored)

9. But I still got a few questions I dont understand

 

As........

1. If so much of current is being drawn to earth/ground, then will I get a huge electricity bill at the end of the month?

2. Is non-grounding same as electrostatic discharge?

[Hiro Hamada]

7 hours ago, EsaT said:

Internal voltages of PC produced PSU can never be felt: They're simply too low voltage.

Just like only way to feel that 9V battery is if you stick tongue to terminals.

 

Electricity which can be felt by touching surface with hand has lot higher voltage.

And outlet lacking grounding is likely cause.

Without ground connection line filtering components of PSU form voltage divider, causing case float half way between live and neutral.

Which is 110V for 220V mains voltage.

Those components just limit current low enough that it's not harmfull to human.

But connecting other mains powered devices to PC (especially with power on) can cause risk of used port getting damaged, with case grounded through cable.

 

Thanks I'm very very glad that you guys suggest me to ground properly. Amd guess what happened

 

1. I called an electrician

2. He checked the PC/USB Ports and the socket

3. He said the phase current was coming out of the usb port itself

4. He also said there is absolutely zero grounding in my socket plug point

5. We bought a few things for grounding(a long hollow steel rod, naked copper wire and copper wire)

6. He twisted the naked copper wire on the rod and planted it deep inside the mud (5ft) and connected the other end of the wire to the PC plug point

7. Now no current shock from now

8. My PC is safe as (censored)

9. But I still got a few questions I dont understand

 

As........

1. If so much of current is being drawn to earth/ground, then will I get a huge electricity bill at the end of the month?

2. Is non-grounding same as electrostatic discharge?

[Amazonsucks]

32 minutes ago, Hiro Hamada said:

Thanks I'm very very glad that you guys suggest me to ground properly. Amd guess what happened

 

1. I called an electrician

2. He checked the PC/USB Ports and the socket

3. He said the phase current was coming out of the usb port itself

4. He also said there is absolutely zero grounding in my socket plug point

5. We bought a few things for grounding(a long hollow steel rod, naked copper wire and copper wire)

6. He twisted the naked copper wire on the rod and planted it deep inside the mud (5ft) and connected the other end of the wire to the PC plug point

7. Now no current shock from now

8. My PC is safe as (censored)

9. But I still got a few questions I dont understand

 

As........

1. If so much of current is being drawn to earth/ground, then will I get a huge electricity bill at the end of the month?

2. Is non-grounding same as electrostatic discharge?

1 no it wont affect your electric bill at all to have things grounded properly. 

 

You have a hot and neutral(return) wire, plus a grounding wire for a 3 prong outlet plug. The ground is basically used to carry stray or overload currents to the Earth in case of a fault, instead of frying the equipment or you.

 

2 no its different than static charge. The electricity coming from your wall is supposed to power the equipment and never electrify you or anything but the thing plugged in. This video explains it.

 

 

[Hiro Hamada]

Ok I'm rocking a gaming pc as below

 

Intel i7 8700K

Corsair H45 CPU Cooler

Corsair 8GB RAM×2

MSI ATX Z370A PRO

NVIDEA GTX 1070 Ti

Corsair TX750M PSU

NZXT Phamtom 530

 

1. Well if power shuts down when the system is idle or during watching a movie, how much wattage will I need in an UPS?

2. If I'm gaming at 1080p in my samsung quantum dot display monitor full HD Ultra graphics and power shuts down, how much power will I need in an UPS?

3. Is that the same power as the psu? If there is a power shortage, will it damage my system circuits on my motherboard? I know the power can be high but not less that the total consumtion