car audio system overheating?

[NotTheRelaxngEnd]

i know, this is home theater and stuff, but it's closely related, so i have spent countless hours installing a new audio system on my 2006 honda civic, like 2 12 inch kicker subwoofers, new radio, switched out the speakers, etc, i have 2 amplifiers running strapped to an extra car battery, so after using it for a while, my amplifier ended up shutting down, i am gessing overheaing since 1:it was hot AF and 2:they are strapped to the  back seats(inside the trunk), can anyone help me and tell me how can i solve this?

another thing that i think might be the issue is the amplifier being too weak

 

[Taf the Ghost]

Probably want to seek out a Car Audio forum, as that's a really detailed topic.

 

On that note, stop OC'ing your car so much.

[NotTheRelaxngEnd]

2 minutes ago, Taf the Ghost said:

Probably want to seek out a Car Audio forum, as that's a really detailed topic.

 

On that note, stop OC'ing your car so much.

already did, but this comunity is much more active and amazing

[Taf the Ghost]

36 minutes ago, NotTheRelaxngEnd said:

already did, but this comunity is much more active and amazing

Haha. Hope someone can help. It's been a long time since I even thought about Car Audio, and it's never been my space. Have you checked the current on the wires?

[O9B0666]

i may not be a pc answer person for people, but this is language i understand lol 
how many amps/watts?
First things id check is in line fuse from amp to battery, and then the ones on the amp itself, make sure their the right amps, and not something thats too high, letting to much current through as that will overheat them for sure. Obviously, check all connections make sure the grounds, and power leads are tight af. The rmt wire, idk if your running a branch from the pwr with a toggle switch, or you hooked it updirect to the back of the head unit, if its direct to the head unit like it "should be" your fine, but like some (self included i have a nice factory headunit with navi and like the clean look so i use factory HU and do the toggle switch trick) if thats you, make sure you have a 30-35amp toggle switch. You mentyioned it was a civic, depending on your amps/how many/and wattage you might be drawing too much from the battery/alternator i believe those are some 45-65 amp alts?

[Ithanul]

On 5/26/2018 at 4:51 AM, O9B0666 said:

how many amps/watts?

Yeah, some other need to know specs is the ohms for the amp and subs.  Specifically the power (RMS and peak) at certain ohms that the amp makes.  Subs really need to be matched correctly to an amp; otherwise, all kinds of issues can arise.  Also, the gauge of the wires too.  Plus, OP state using a 2nd battery.  Was the alternator upgraded?  Not super sure on what civics base alternator pushes out, but car alternators don't tend to push a whole lot out.

 

Other info would be how are the subs hooked?  Is the OP bridging them or not?

[Pixel5]

On 27.5.2018 at 5:11 PM, Ithanul said:

 Plus, OP state using a 2nd battery.  Was the alternator upgraded?  Not super sure on what civics base alternator pushes out, but car alternators don't tend to push a whole lot out.

the alternator will be fine, ven low end alternators output more than 1.5kW easily, higher end ones up to 3kW thats plenty for any number of batteries you could reasonably mount inside a car.

[Ahoy Hoy]

Amp probably isnt powerful enough for the speakers and it is shitting bricks trying to run them.

Whats the speakers and amp specs and probably should be in the audio section

[Ithanul]

On 5/29/2018 at 2:40 AM, Pixel5 said:

the alternator will be fine, ven low end alternators output more than 1.5kW easily, higher end ones up to 3kW thats plenty for any number of batteries you could reasonably mount inside a car.

Yes, alternators can output 1kW+ or so, but when considering after market sound systems the current (amps) is the largest concern.  Reason I was asking is because the OP added in a 2nd battery.  This along with the OP stating two amps and two 12 inch subs means the system is probably at minimum above 1,000W RMS setup.  Once getting into those high watt range, the current from the vehicle electrical systems needs to be taken into consideration along with the wire gauge to said system.  Just smacking in a 2nd battery is not going to provide correct power to such a sound setup.  The amount I read of people having issues with overheating issues with amps is either the subs are bridge which cause them to pull more from the amps beyond the amps ability, the system as a whole pulls more current than the vehicle's alternator can keep up with, or incorrect wire gauges or a combination of these.  In which case, the owner winds up with a dead amp, dead alternator, dead battery, or all of those dead.  Worse case, they get an engine bay fire or a wire catching on fire.

 

@NotTheRelaxngEnd, what exact model is your amps and subwoofers?  Reason for asking is knowing what RMS and peak wattage of the system.  Either your amps are not getting enough current from the electric system or the amps can't keep the subs feed.  Or, even both.  Another reason I ask is that ohm rating of these devices can be know.  Along with if you have those subs bridge or in series (this really affects their ohm and RMS).

 

For a quick dirty to figure out the amp pull of your sound system:  Use Ohm's Watt's Law, Wattage = Amps x Voltage.  In this case, add up your RMS wattage of your amps then divide by 13.5v.  That will give you a ball park of the current draw of the system (note, this won't be its peak draw, to do that use the peak wattage).  At minimum a 1,000W system pulls around 74 amps, a 1,500W system pulls 111 amps, a 2,000W system pulls 148 amps.  These figures are at RMS draw and do not take into account what the rest of vehicle system pulls as well.

 

Another quick question at OP: have you noticed dashboard dimming, headlight dimming/flickering, and/or rough idle when the sound system is running? (especially if the subs are turned up)

 

Specifically, what exact model Honda Civic is this?

Depending on the model depends what stock OEM alternator you may have.

There is either the Mitsubishi one that is a 80amp model (that is its rated maximum amps)

And then there is the Denso one that is a 105amp model.

Note:  That is the rated maximum output of these alternators.  Considering if the alternator has some age, I advise having it checked at like AutoZone, CarQuest, etc.  That way you know the exact amps the alternator is feeding to the system.

[Pixel5]

8 hours ago, Ithanul said:

Yes, alternators can output 1kW+ or so, but when considering after market sound systems the current (amps) is the largest concern.  Reason I was asking is because the OP added in a 2nd battery.  This along with the OP stating two amps and two 12 inch subs means the system is probably at minimum above 1,000W RMS setup.  Once getting into those high watt range, the current from the vehicle electrical systems needs to be taken into consideration along with the wire gauge to said system.  Just smacking in a 2nd battery is not going to provide correct power to such a sound setup.  The amount I read of people having issues with overheating issues with amps is either the subs are bridge which cause them to pull more from the amps beyond the amps ability, the system as a whole pulls more current than the vehicle's alternator can keep up with, or incorrect wire gauges or a combination of these.  In which case, the owner winds up with a dead amp, dead alternator, dead battery, or all of those dead.  Worse case, they get an engine bay fire or a wire catching on fire.

Thats exactly the reason why you would add another battery, the sound system power is a very momentary thing and usually only reached when the sub is going with full force.

 

Car batteries can output hundreds of amps so you mount another one near the amp to avoid drawing the huge current spikes directly from the alternator.

 

8 hours ago, Ithanul said:

Use Ohm's Law, Wattage = Amps x Voltage.

that is not ohms law

[Ithanul]

14 hours ago, Pixel5 said:

Thats exactly the reason why you would add another battery, the sound system power is a very momentary thing and usually only reached when the sub is going with full force.

 

Car batteries can output hundreds of amps so you mount another one near the amp to avoid drawing the huge current spikes directly from the alternator.

Yes, the battery assists during peak demand, but the alternator is seeing a bigger load.  Instead of just the one battery load, the alternator is dealing with a two battery load.  The OP did not state if the car still has its OEM alt or if an after market or HO alternator is being used.  To rule out the alternator, it is best to test it to ensure the alternator is still outputting the correct amperage and to make sure it is maintaining the electrical system (especially if the alternator has some age).

 

Also, the OP did not state how the the extra battery is setup.  No clue if the OP is running two paired batteries or the stock with a deep cycle with no isolator or with isolator.  Along with no clue how the extra battery is connected and if the gauge of wire is correct.

 

This is important information to have to assist with troubleshooting.

14 hours ago, Pixel5 said:

that is not ohms law

My mistake when typing.  Watt's Law.