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cpu overheating

Go to solution Solved by DarkSmith2,

From my experience with corsair AiOs, its probably done. Me and many others experienced the exact same behavior. Have tried to troubleshoot in assisstance of corsair, didnt worked out well. I tried everything they suggested with my H110i, it started just randomly to have very high peak temperatures and ended in constant high temperatures.

 

Corsair was trying to tell me bogus nonsense about airbubbles, In reality those AiOs gunk up after a random amount of time. Like this one:

P1020438s_zpseb5e3b70.jpg

 

And than its gone.

So a while back I bought a water cooler (corsair H100i v2) I didn't really touch anything, but I did notice that my CPU cooler was noticeably louder. (my previous CPU cooler was cooler master hyper 212 evo, my cpu is i5 4690k). Anyways long story short I have been trying to overclock my but i keep running into overheating/throttling issues. For example I run cinebench while my cpu is overclocked to 4ghz, the cpu temperature goes up to 100C and the CPU frequency throttles down into 2.6 ghz range. So my question is what on earth is going on? I have already reseated the CPU and replaced the thermal paste, so i'm pretty sure it isn't that... but I suppose can't be ruled out either. Is my water pump broken? one of the tubes does seem to get pretty dang hot. and the pump (if it is located where i think it is) isn't vibrating. So does that mean that the pump isn't running? or is it just not running well? I have no clue at this point. (the voltage is at 1.2 v btw).

 

Thanks in advance! 

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Yes, something is wrong. If you feel no vibration when you touch the "tubes" then it's pretty safe to say its not working correctly.

First watercooled System

Build Name: White Knight

OS: Windows 11 Pro 64-bit

Monitor: Alienware AW3423DWF 1800R Curved Ultrawide 3440x1440 QD-OLED 157hz 10 bit 0.1ms

Chassis: Lian Li 011 Dynamic EVO w/ 2x120mm Corsair QL RGB Fans on the bottom 1x120mm on back exhaust

Top Rad & Fans:  Corsair 54mm 360mm w/ 3x120mm Corsair ML Pro RGB Fans

Side Rad & Fans: Corsair 30mm 360mm w/ 3x120mm Corsair QL RGB Fans

Motherboard: Asrock X670E Steel Legend

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D w/ Corsair XC7 RGB Pro w/ Kyrosheet

Memory/RAM: Corsair Dominator RGB DDR5 2x16GB 32GB 6000Mhz

GPU: Asus GeForce RTX 4080 TUF w/ EK-Quantum Vector2 Nickel/Plexi & Backplate

Pump/Reservoir: Corsair XD5 RGB

Coolant: Corsair Clear

PSU: Lian Li Edge 1000W

Boot/OS SSD: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVMe

WZ/2042 SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB

Game SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB

Performance/Editing HDD: Western Digital Black 1TB

Storage HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB

Mouse: Razer Lancehead Tournament Edition/Razer Mamba

Mouse Mat: Corsair MM700 RGB

Keyboard: Razer Ornata Chroma

Microphone: Beacn Mic

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Eyewear/Glasses: Gunnar Optiks Razer FPS/Gamer Advantage Liquid

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4 minutes ago, darkchaos916 said:

Yes, something is wrong. If you feel no vibration when you touch the "tubes" then it's pretty safe to say its not working correctly.

just to make sure the waterpump is right on top of the cpu right? as in gets mounted onto the cpu.

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2 minutes ago, sharknado34 said:

just to make sure the waterpump is right on top of the cpu right? as in gets mounted onto the cpu.

Yes.

 

What does it report in Corsair Link? What's the pump speed?
The fans on the Corsair AIOs are quite loud at full RPM (~2700RPM) so you can probably solve how loud the cooler is by creating a custom fan curve.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Yeah, I have mine quite low but still can feel vibration and keeps my cpu cool with 1.33v. So yeah RMA it. 62c is insane for idle I rarely hit 70c on a stress test. For instance cinebench.

First watercooled System

Build Name: White Knight

OS: Windows 11 Pro 64-bit

Monitor: Alienware AW3423DWF 1800R Curved Ultrawide 3440x1440 QD-OLED 157hz 10 bit 0.1ms

Chassis: Lian Li 011 Dynamic EVO w/ 2x120mm Corsair QL RGB Fans on the bottom 1x120mm on back exhaust

Top Rad & Fans:  Corsair 54mm 360mm w/ 3x120mm Corsair ML Pro RGB Fans

Side Rad & Fans: Corsair 30mm 360mm w/ 3x120mm Corsair QL RGB Fans

Motherboard: Asrock X670E Steel Legend

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D w/ Corsair XC7 RGB Pro w/ Kyrosheet

Memory/RAM: Corsair Dominator RGB DDR5 2x16GB 32GB 6000Mhz

GPU: Asus GeForce RTX 4080 TUF w/ EK-Quantum Vector2 Nickel/Plexi & Backplate

Pump/Reservoir: Corsair XD5 RGB

Coolant: Corsair Clear

PSU: Lian Li Edge 1000W

Boot/OS SSD: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVMe

WZ/2042 SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB

Game SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB

Performance/Editing HDD: Western Digital Black 1TB

Storage HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB

Mouse: Razer Lancehead Tournament Edition/Razer Mamba

Mouse Mat: Corsair MM700 RGB

Keyboard: Razer Ornata Chroma

Microphone: Beacn Mic

Headset: Razer Blackshark v2 Pro

Eyewear/Glasses: Gunnar Optiks Razer FPS/Gamer Advantage Liquid

Camera: Razer Kiyo Pro/OBSBOT Meet SE

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8 minutes ago, Spotty said:

Yes.

 

What does it report in Corsair Link? What's the pump speed?
The fans on the Corsair AIOs are quite loud at full RPM (~2700RPM) so you can probably solve how loud the cooler is by creating a custom fan curve.

it says it is at 2070 rpm. btw how does corsair link work how is it supposed to know how fast my pump is well pumping at?

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3 minutes ago, sharknado34 said:

it says it is at 2070 rpm. btw how does corsair link work how is it supposed to know how fast my pump is well pumping at?

Did you plug the pump into a mobo pump header, or at least in a fan header?  The corsair aio has 2 fan connectors. 1 for the pump, the other for the fans.

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9 minutes ago, Some Random Member said:

Did you plug the pump into a mobo pump header, or at least in a fan header?  The corsair aio has 2 fan connectors. 1 for the pump, the other for the fans.

I have it pluged into a usb 2.0 connector, but I don't think that should make a difference...

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18 minutes ago, sharknado34 said:

it says it is at 2070 rpm. btw how does corsair link work how is it supposed to know how fast my pump is well pumping at?

There's an internal USB connector that plugs in to the side of the pump that reports sensor information back to the motherboard. Corsair Link reads that information and lets you adjust the fan curves and pump speed.
 

13 minutes ago, Some Random Member said:

The corsair aio has 2 fan connectors. 1 for the pump, the other for the fans.

They all get power from a single CPU_Fan header. The cables that comes off the pump has a Y-Splitter with two female connectors for the two fans that feeds back in to the pump, and a male connector to plug in to the motherboard for power coming from the pump. So you only need to plug in to one fan header, as well as the aforementioned USB cable for link.

 

Go in to your BIOS and make sure the CPU_Fan header is set to run at 100%. This will give the pump and fans the power it needs and then it will regulate itself. If it's set to PWM mode or a lower value then it might not be getting enough power to run correctly.
What fan speed are your fans reporting in Corsair Link? Is your pump set to Performance or Quiet? (should be Quiet based on that RPM)

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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29 minutes ago, Spotty said:

There's an internal USB connector that plugs in to the side of the pump that reports sensor information back to the motherboard. Corsair Link reads that information and lets you adjust the fan curves and pump speed.
 

They all get power from a single CPU_Fan header. The cables that comes off the pump has a Y-Splitter with two female connectors for the two fans that feeds back in to the pump, and a male connector to plug in to the motherboard for power coming from the pump. So you only need to plug in to one fan header, as well as the aforementioned USB cable for link.

 

Go in to your BIOS and make sure the CPU_Fan header is set to run at 100%. This will give the pump and fans the power it needs and then it will regulate itself. If it's set to PWM mode or a lower value then it might not be getting enough power to run correctly.
What fan speed are your fans reporting in Corsair Link? Is your pump set to Performance or Quiet? (should be Quiet based on that RPM)

"Go in to your BIOS and make sure the CPU_Fan header is set to run at 100%." Where would I find this in bios?

 

I just installed corsair link today (since you mentioned it) so im not the most familiar, but to answer, it was set to balanced.

also I took a look at my pc and noticed that i didn't have the cpu cooler setup like you mentioned, I have set it up like you mentioned. beforehand, and I am testing it now... I am getting better results, but still not that great for overclocked to 4 ghz, my high temp now is 82 C in cinebench, my idle is 42 C

Edited by sharknado34
forgot to fully respond to quesitons
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2 minutes ago, sharknado34 said:

"Go in to your BIOS and make sure the CPU_Fan header is set to run at 100%." Where would I find this in bios?

Depends on your motherboard manufacturer. Menu for it could be called "Fan Profiles", "Fan Control", "PC Health", "Smart Fan", "Hardware Monitor", etc
It should take you to a page that lets you select each fan header and assign it a fan profile, typically between full speed, PWM, fan curve, fixed %, and sometimes settings such as "quiet mode" or "Performance mode".

The way the motherboard controls the fan RPM is by lowering or increasing the voltage sent through the header to lower or increase the RPM of the fans. You want to make sure the AIO is getting enough power to run properly so make sure the setting for the header you have the cooler plugged in to (typically would be CPU_Fan header) is set to run at 100%. The fans on the radiator are controlled by the corsair link software, so changing the motherboard header value to 100% shouldn't change the RPM that the fans run at.

Also, try slowly and carefully tipping the case to its side just in case there is a small air bubble trapped in the pump that is restricting the water flow. Tipping it should hopefully force any bubbles up and out of the pump. Since it's a closed loop there shouldn't be any air bubbles in the loop, but it's possible. Has happened to me once on a Corsair H100i V2 before after I previously had the system laying down for a while as I cleaned it and an air bubble made its way in to the pump area, and it caused serious overheating - however in this case the pump was spinning at 5000RPM and making an incredibly loud vibration noise since it didn't have the resistance of the water - so I doubt this is your problem.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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17 minutes ago, Spotty said:

Depends on your motherboard manufacturer. Menu for it could be called "Fan Profiles", "Fan Control", "PC Health", "Smart Fan", "Hardware Monitor", etc
It should take you to a page that lets you select each fan header and assign it a fan profile, typically between full speed, PWM, fan curve, fixed %, and sometimes settings such as "quiet mode" or "Performance mode".

The way the motherboard controls the fan RPM is by lowering or increasing the voltage sent through the header to lower or increase the RPM of the fans. You want to make sure the AIO is getting enough power to run properly so make sure the setting for the header you have the cooler plugged in to (typically would be CPU_Fan header) is set to run at 100%. The fans on the radiator are controlled by the corsair link software, so changing the motherboard header value to 100% shouldn't change the RPM that the fans run at.

Also, try slowly and carefully tipping the case to its side just in case there is a small air bubble trapped in the pump that is restricting the water flow. Tipping it should hopefully force any bubbles up and out of the pump. Since it's a closed loop there shouldn't be any air bubbles in the loop, but it's possible. Has happened to me once on a Corsair H100i V2 before after I previously had the system laying down for a while as I cleaned it and an air bubble made its way in to the pump area, and it caused serious overheating - however in this case the pump was spinning at 5000RPM and making an incredibly loud vibration noise since it didn't have the resistance of the water - so I doubt this is your problem.

kk set it to 100%, my temps in cinebench now are (this is at 4ghz) 73 C at the highest with an average around 70 C my idle temperature is now at around 39C, my cpu fans are spining at 1530 rpm, my waterpump is at 3090 rpm (this is idle rpms btw) I also tipped the pc, not sure if there was a bubble, but it is performing better now... Do you think this acceptable results? or do you think it is still a little off? the tubes are vibrating in a kinda throbbing way (i don't know how to describe it).

Edited by sharknado34
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1 hour ago, sharknado34 said:

I just installed corsair link today (since you mentioned it) so im not the most familiar, but to answer, it was set to balanced.

also I took a look at my pc and noticed that i didn't have the cpu cooler setup like you mentioned, I have set it up like you mentioned. beforehand, and I am testing it now... I am getting better results, but still not that great for overclocked to 4 ghz, my high temp now is 82 C in cinebench, my idle is 42 C

 

29 minutes ago, sharknado34 said:

kk set it to 100%, my temps in cinebench now are (this is at 4ghz) 73 C at the highest with an average around 70 C my idle temperature is now at around 39C, my cpu fans are spining at 1530 rpm, my waterpump is at 3090 rpm (this is idle rpms btw) I also tipped the pc, not sure if there was a bubble, but it is performing better now... Do you think this acceptable results? or do you think it is still a little off? the tubes are vibrating in a kinda throbbing way (i don't know how to describe it).


Those are much better temperatures, 70s and 80s is perfectly normal for an overclocked CPU under load, assuming it isn't thermal throttling (which it shouldn't be doing).

Try using AIDA64 (you can get a trail version) and run the stress test that is built in that on the FPU. Let it run for an hour or so. Water in loops can take a while to heat up and reach equilibrium to give you your true 'max temperatures'. Also, it can take the water a long time to cool down as well, so if you've been running stress tests which heats up the water temps then try to check your idle temperatures it will be higher than normal since the loop is already warm.

Pump speed doesn't change based on load. It's either in Quiet Mode (~1800RPM) or Performance Mode (~2900RPM).

Try fiddling with the CorsairLink fan profiles more. I find "Balanced" mode is trash - far too loud, at idle temps the fans will be spinning at 1600RPM+. I would recommend a custom fan profile is best for performance to noise balance.
Keep in mind when adjusting the fan curves that the temperature it reads is the water temperature and not the CPU package temperature. So even though your CPU cores may be in the 70s, the water temp in the loop may only reach 35C.
So really you want to build the fan curve within the range of around 20°C to 40°C which is what your water temp will be within, though your experience may vary depending on overclock and ambient room temps. Next to the pump speed and fan speed there is a icon for the temperature reading for the water temp. Click on it and it will display a graph of your water temps and the min/max temperature it has reached that session - this might give you an idea of the range you need to focus your profile on.

Edit:
Here's my custom fan profile (6700k) to give you an idea. It's aimed at keeping it quiet while idling, and only starts to ramp up when the CPU is under load and the loop has heated up (typically after I've been gaming for a while). Feel free to try this to start out and experiment adjusting it as you see fit. Different CPU and different OCs means that it may not be ideal for you, so keep an eye on the water temps and adjust if needed.

<30C = 25%
35C = 35%
37C = 40%
38C = 55%
40C = 70%
50C = 100%

 

Spoiler

image.png.e213841a8a591194e0b686da9e036e99.png

 

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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11 hours ago, Spotty said:

 


Those are much better temperatures, 70s and 80s is perfectly normal for an overclocked CPU under load, assuming it isn't thermal throttling (which it shouldn't be doing).

Try using AIDA64 (you can get a trail version) and run the stress test that is built in that on the FPU. Let it run for an hour or so. Water in loops can take a while to heat up and reach equilibrium to give you your true 'max temperatures'. Also, it can take the water a long time to cool down as well, so if you've been running stress tests which heats up the water temps then try to check your idle temperatures it will be higher than normal since the loop is already warm.

Pump speed doesn't change based on load. It's either in Quiet Mode (~1800RPM) or Performance Mode (~2900RPM).

Try fiddling with the CorsairLink fan profiles more. I find "Balanced" mode is trash - far too loud, at idle temps the fans will be spinning at 1600RPM+. I would recommend a custom fan profile is best for performance to noise balance.
Keep in mind when adjusting the fan curves that the temperature it reads is the water temperature and not the CPU package temperature. So even though your CPU cores may be in the 70s, the water temp in the loop may only reach 35C.
So really you want to build the fan curve within the range of around 20°C to 40°C which is what your water temp will be within, though your experience may vary depending on overclock and ambient room temps. Next to the pump speed and fan speed there is a icon for the temperature reading for the water temp. Click on it and it will display a graph of your water temps and the min/max temperature it has reached that session - this might give you an idea of the range you need to focus your profile on.

Edit:
Here's my custom fan profile (6700k) to give you an idea. It's aimed at keeping it quiet while idling, and only starts to ramp up when the CPU is under load and the loop has heated up (typically after I've been gaming for a while). Feel free to try this to start out and experiment adjusting it as you see fit. Different CPU and different OCs means that it may not be ideal for you, so keep an eye on the water temps and adjust if needed.

<30C = 25%
35C = 35%
37C = 40%
38C = 55%
40C = 70%
50C = 100%

 

  Reveal hidden contents

image.png.e213841a8a591194e0b686da9e036e99.png

 

these were my results in aida 64. the room temperature is cold enough for me to need a blanket, it does look like my cpu throttled though looking at cpuid monitor... The temps looked like it remained around 92 C which seems a little hot if you ask me. what do you think? (i ended up using the exact same fan curve that you have, my cpu is overclocked to 4 ghz), as of writing my liquid temps were remaining around 40.7 C. 

 

Edit, in Battlefield 1 now my cpu doesn't throtle, but it does stay around 87C when playing it... so im not really sure what is going on. I don't think that 4 ghz is that crazy of an overclock for a i5 4690k, but I have no clue.

image.thumb.png.f31451890f457b11a3548fafd807ed28.png

Edited by sharknado34
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6 hours ago, sharknado34 said:

The temps looked like it remained around 92 C which seems a little hot if you ask me. what do you think? (i ended up using the exact same fan curve that you have, my cpu is overclocked to 4 ghz), as of writing my liquid temps were remaining around 40.7 C. 

If you're hitting 40c on the water then you'll need to adjust the fan curve to make it more aggressive. Have the fans run faster, it'll be louder but should help with those temps a little bit.

 

Temps do seem a bit high as the AIO should be able to handle the oc. If you've already reapplied thermal paste then I'm not sure what else.

 

Make sure your case has a decent amount of intake airflow to supply the cooler with fresh air.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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51 minutes ago, Spotty said:

If you're hitting 40c on the water then you'll need to adjust the fan curve to make it more aggressive. Have the fans run faster, it'll be louder but should help with those temps a little bit.

 

Temps do seem a bit high as the AIO should be able to handle the oc. If you've already reapplied thermal paste then I'm not sure what else.

 

Make sure your case has a decent amount of intake airflow to supply the cooler with fresh air.

is it possible that i might just have a faulty cooler?(how would I know if I have a faulty cooler?) maybe i didn't mount it properly? is it possible that i have the cooler on too tight? I'm pretty sure I had enough thermal paste on there... Maybe I'm using the wrong bracket with the aio? I'm not really sure what else to do. In any case thanks for all the help. I will have to fiddle around with it further. 

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From my experience with corsair AiOs, its probably done. Me and many others experienced the exact same behavior. Have tried to troubleshoot in assisstance of corsair, didnt worked out well. I tried everything they suggested with my H110i, it started just randomly to have very high peak temperatures and ended in constant high temperatures.

 

Corsair was trying to tell me bogus nonsense about airbubbles, In reality those AiOs gunk up after a random amount of time. Like this one:

P1020438s_zpseb5e3b70.jpg

 

And than its gone.

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x3D | MoBo: MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk | RAM: G.Skill F4-3600C15D-16GTZ @3800CL16 | GPU: RTX 2080Ti | PSU: Corsair HX1200 | 

Case: Lian Li 011D XL | Storage: Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe 500GB, Crucial MX500 500GB | Soundcard: Soundblaster ZXR | Mouse: Razer Viper Mini | Keyboard: Razer Huntsman TE Monitor: DELL AW2521H @360Hz |

 

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16 hours ago, DarkSmith2 said:

From my experience with corsair AiOs, its probably done. Me and many others experienced the exact same behavior. Have tried to troubleshoot in assisstance of corsair, didnt worked out well. I tried everything they suggested with my H110i, it started just randomly to have very high peak temperatures and ended in constant high temperatures.

 

Corsair was trying to tell me bogus nonsense about airbubbles, In reality those AiOs gunk up after a random amount of time. Like this one:

P1020438s_zpseb5e3b70.jpg

 

And than its gone.

thankfully I have fixed my issues. I put more thermal paste on and I fixed the issues. no more overheating.

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45 minutes ago, sharknado34 said:

thankfully I have fixed my issues. I put more thermal paste on and I fixed the issues. no more overheating.

thats nice. I wasnt lucky enough to be able to fix it with something simple :) 

I kinda refused on every AiO after my H110i, gone big two tower aircooler for a while, now im running a 360mm aio. Well i think ill go with a full costum loop in the future. Its expansive but i feel more comfortable with being able to pull everything apart and replace potentially faulty parts. 

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x3D | MoBo: MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk | RAM: G.Skill F4-3600C15D-16GTZ @3800CL16 | GPU: RTX 2080Ti | PSU: Corsair HX1200 | 

Case: Lian Li 011D XL | Storage: Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe 500GB, Crucial MX500 500GB | Soundcard: Soundblaster ZXR | Mouse: Razer Viper Mini | Keyboard: Razer Huntsman TE Monitor: DELL AW2521H @360Hz |

 

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27 minutes ago, DarkSmith2 said:

thats nice. I wasnt lucky enough to be able to fix it with something simple :) 

I kinda refused on every AiO after my H110i, gone big two tower aircooler for a while, now im running a 360mm aio. Well i think ill go with a full costum loop in the future. Its expansive but i feel more comfortable with being able to pull everything apart and replace potentially faulty parts. 

can't blame you best of luck in the future.

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