Jump to content

is an EVGA 500B enough for an R5 2600x?

I have an EVGA 500B psu and I am planning on upgrading to an R5 2600x and either get a 1070ti or the 1170ti. I don't plan on overclocking. Is it enough?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, many people run an 8700k and 1080 off the corsair SF450 in SFF builds.

 

COMPUTER: Mobile Battlestation  |  CPU: INTEL I7-8700k |  Motherboard: Asus z370-i Strix Gaming  | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW ACX 3.0 | Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev. b |  PSU: Corsair SF600 | HDD: Samsung 860 evo 1tb

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope. Max power draw is still less than 300w at stock.

COMPUTER: Mobile Battlestation  |  CPU: INTEL I7-8700k |  Motherboard: Asus z370-i Strix Gaming  | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW ACX 3.0 | Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev. b |  PSU: Corsair SF600 | HDD: Samsung 860 evo 1tb

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Enough wattage, but seriously consider replacing it once you upgrade the GPU. The B1 is crap, and you don't really want to be powering $500 GPUs with it. 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've done more on worse, but sure, better power supplies are always better.

COMPUTER: Mobile Battlestation  |  CPU: INTEL I7-8700k |  Motherboard: Asus z370-i Strix Gaming  | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW ACX 3.0 | Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev. b |  PSU: Corsair SF600 | HDD: Samsung 860 evo 1tb

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

While it will power up everything and work... for a given time it'd be wise to have your PSU in mind balancing the system up, it is unlikely but failures with those can still kill a component, I personally don't feel it's worth the mistake must feel really bad get a dead component to save about what? 15 dollars?

 

There's more to a PSU than just wattage :/

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

well sucks out 300w at max than it should be ok. if it doesnt work than I will upgrade to either a 600w or a 750w

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, FZPX said:

well sucks out 300w at max than it should be ok. if it doesnt work than I will upgrade to either a 600w or a 750w

Getting a stupid high wattage PSU doesn't really make sense. What you want is a good PSU, not a high wattage one. 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, FZPX said:

if it doesnt work than I will upgrade to either a 600w or a 750w

You're seriously getting this wrong, you don't need more watts you need more of other stuff now that composes a quality PSU.

 

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Their comments are regarding quality of the components in the PSU and the quality of power supplied (not the amount of power supplied). 

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=351

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=351

 

While it isn't a platinum rated unit by any means, you could definitely do worse, but as they mentioned, a lot of gold units aren't too much more in price for (usually) better warranty, QC, ripple, build quality, etc.

COMPUTER: Mobile Battlestation  |  CPU: INTEL I7-8700k |  Motherboard: Asus z370-i Strix Gaming  | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW ACX 3.0 | Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev. b |  PSU: Corsair SF600 | HDD: Samsung 860 evo 1tb

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, FZPX said:

I have an EVGA 500B psu and I am planning on upgrading to an R5 2600x and either get a 1070ti or the 1170ti. I don't plan on overclocking. Is it enough?

No, its a pretty shit (=Group Regulated) PSU and must not be used with modern Hardware.

Especially if we are talking about 400€+ Graphics cards...


So get a good 450-550W PSU like Cougar GX-F, Bitfenix Whisper M, be quiet Straight Power 11.

 

so 750w then

Why are you ignoring what people are writing here??
 

You don't need no 750W for a 250-300W PC, you need a good quality PSU, not a high wattage one...

Getting a good one is always better than getting a higher Wattage one where you don't need the Watts...

 

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, FZPX said:

I have an EVGA 500B psu and I am planning on upgrading to an R5 2600x and either get a 1070ti or the 1170ti. I don't plan on overclocking. Is it enough?

Will run fine.

 

However, i still suggest you read yourself into OC.

I do NOT mean cranking the clock up like there's no tomorrow. L et it be stock, but optimize the Voltage.

If the Motherboard puts 1.3 Volt in Auto mode on the CPU, but it COULD/WOULD run stable with 1.15 Volt, that can be a huge difference in Power consumption, heat output, and noise.

Same with the GPU.

 

Example with my GTX 1080 MSI Gaming X (180w Chip, but with MSIs OCed Bios, power target etc, the card consumes 210-220w under Gaming load).

@ stock like i said, 210-220w Power consumption at 1.043 Volt~, 1961 Mhz Core Clock, and 5000 Mhz Memory Clock.

I optimized it to 0.900 VOlt, 1961-1976 Mhz Core Clock (depending on temp), and 5500 Mhz Memory OC. Thanks to Memory OC the performance is overall slightly better, but power consumption during Gaming droped to 165-185w~, Temperatures droped by 5-6°C, and Fan speed droped also by 200~ rpm.

 

 

But yea, without ANY optimization, the CPU should land at around 100 Watt under full Load (probably 40-80 under Gaming, depending how much the CPU has to work), and 140-150w for a GTX 1070/1170), will be together <300w out of the wall, and 250-270w pure PSU load. With a -ti probably 20-30w more. 

 

 

Either you keep your PSU and use it, or if you get a new one, my personal Budget tipp: BeQuiet Pure Power 10 500-600w~

Silver rating, but very very good tech inside vs. the Price it costs. I don't think it's worth getting anything cheaper than that, if you can afford such an expensive GPU. Not worth saving 10 bucks for a worse PSU.

400w would be ok too, but the Load% would be too high --> Could get louder. A PSU has the best Efficiency at 50-60% Load. So at 270w Power consumption, a 500w  PSU is very optimal. It stays at the perfect efficiency%, and it also stays very quiet because the Load% doesn't get high --> and for the next years you have enough spare power if you want a bigger high end upgrade (a 250-300w GPU, etc), and it would still work.

Nothing against a 600w PSU, which will have the best efficiency at a 300-330w Load, and still have some room above. It seems too overpowered, and unneccessary, but it does make sense. If the Price isn't noticably higher, no reason to get a lower one.

 

If you want a better quality, the new BeQuiet straight Power 11 series is VERY good. Just like the very popular and high quality 10 series, it succeeds that, and makes everything a tiny little bit better.

Good alternatives: EVGA Nova G3, Corsair RMX etc... They offer 7-10 years warranty, which is also something not to underestimate at this pricerange (100€~).

 

Remember, if you have 500-600+ Bucks for a GPU alone, you also have 100 bucks for a high quality PSU. This is the LAST piece of your whole PC where you want to save money. NEVER save (too much) on a good PSU by getting some entry level stuff. Okay for office~, not the best choice for Gaming.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, Darkseth said:

Nothing against a 600w PSU, which will have the best efficiency at a 300-330w Load,

Not really and the difference between 20-80% is only around 1-2% and another 1% at more than that...

 

 

With the Pure Power 10 it looks like this:

http://www.tweakpc.de/hardware/tests/netzteile/be_quiet_pure_power_10/s03.php

 

Peak Efficiency at 115VAC is around 30% Load - not 50% (that's often not the case and a fairy tale because of the 3 points of 80plus/ECOVA), as its the case with many other PSU - they are not made to be most efficient at 50%; they are made to be over the 80plus spec they are advertized for....

 

At 230VAC it looks a bit different, the "Curve" is far flatter and drops far less - and is still 230VAC Silver,


Here we have the Top Efficiency between 35 and around 60% - differences at arond 0,3% are more like measuring tolerance and not worth thinking about. Especially since there is also a manufacturing tolerance that is also quite high in some circumstances...

 

Anyway, in 230VAC we have a difference in efficiency between 20 and 80% load of about ,5%...

And from 80 to 100% 2,3%...

 

Is that really worth mentioning??

 

 

And yes, 600W is the most useless wattage because there is no way you can use that wattage with a reasonable system!

For two GPU systems its quite borderline and maybe not enough, for Single CPU systems its way too much. And with be quiet you can expect them to use at least 3 different fans in one series..

 

 

So the claim that the best efficiency is at 50% load is proven wrong. With this unit and 115VAC it's at only 30% - wich is 150W on the 550W and not 250-300W like you claimed.

 

400w would be ok too, but the Load% would be too high --> Could get louder.

two PSU, both have about the same efficiency, the same heatsinks and load is the same. Why should the higher wattage one be quieter or the lower wattage one louder???

WIthout letting the components get hotter on the higher wattage model at the same load, that does not happen...

 


So no, PSU of the same design are usually at about the same noise (or worse) but NOT quieter!
That requires some changes to the Powersupply Design - either bigger heatsinks at the higher wattage one or a completely different design - like it is the case with the Dark Power Pro P11 750 vs. 850W.

In this case it makes sense to prefer the 850W one but only because they use a different Plattform with two transformers instead of one and also bigger heatsinking.

 

In General, you generally have to look up the PSU you are talking about.

BUt more Watt usually doesn't give you any advantages at all...

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Stefan Payne said:

Not really and the difference between 20-80% is only around 1-2% and another 1% at more than that...

Yes really.

Difference only 2-3%? Yes.

But still, my statement is absolutely correct. Just look at the efficiency curves of all PSUs, after 50-60% it gets lower again.

 

Not really and the difference between 20-80% is only around 1-2% and another 1% at more than that...

 

1 hour ago, Stefan Payne said:

And yes, 600W is the most useless wattage because there is no way you can use that wattage with a reasonable system!

You don't NEED to use all 600w.

If your System sues 600w, then a 600w PSU is a wrong choice in first place. You NEVER want a PSU to run at (nearly) 100% load. No matter if it's an entry level one, of a high end.

 

1 hour ago, Stefan Payne said:

So the claim that the best efficiency is at 50% load is proven wrong. With this unit and 115VAC it's at only 30% - wich is 150W on the 550W and not 250-300W like you claimed.

Where did FZPX say he lives in an Area with 115v? Maybe he lives with 230v?

However, you prove me even more correct. If you go for 115v mode, then you shouldn't buy a PSU that will run at high Load even less. Because the efficiency drops even more.

 

1 hour ago, Stefan Payne said:

two PSU, both have about the same efficiency, the same heatsinks and load is the same. Why should the higher wattage one be quieter or the lower wattage one louder???

WIthout letting the components get hotter on the higher wattage model at the same load, that does not happen...

 


So no, PSU of the same design are usually at about the same noise (or worse) but NOT quieter!
That requires some changes to the Powersupply Design - either bigger heatsinks at the higher wattage one or a completely different design - like it is the case with the Dark Power Pro P11 750 vs. 850W.

In this case it makes sense to prefer the 850W one but only because they use a different Plattform with two transformers instead of one and also bigger heatsinking.

 

In General, you generally have to look up the PSU you are talking about.

BUt more Watt usually doesn't give you any advantages at all...

Wrong again.

http://www.tweakpc.de/hardware/tests/netzteile/be_quiet_pure_power_10/s08.php

 

They do NOT use the same Heatsink, and they do NOT use the same electronics.

A 1000w PSU will have a better heatsink and stronger components, than a 400-500w PSU. A 350w PSU won't need a big heatsink ready to cool a 1000w PSU down.

 

Check your own Review please. Up untill 50% fan speed stays at a Minimum. After 50% Load percentage the heat becomes bigger, and the Fans go up. From 500rpm up to almost 1000 rpm at "only" 400w, which can be very realistic with a Mainstream CPU + a factory OCed GPU that consumes 200-250w (my i7 6700k + GTX 1080 get up to 340-350w Power consumption drawn directly out the Wall).

That Pure Power 10 500w will already have increased Fan speed. Because that is already 70%~ Load. While a 600w PSU would be at 58% Load.

 

 

Let me rephrase this question: You can clearly see, from 250w and more the Fans start to spin faster, because heat becomes greater. Right?

Now check this, Pure Power 10, but 800w: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/beQuiet/StraightPower_10_800W/6.html

 

While the Fan start spinning faster at 250w also (surprises me, most PSUs do that at 50%), but at 400w Power consumptions the Fan rpm is at only... 725~ish, while the 500w Pure Power 10 reaches almost 1000 rpm.

 

How do you explain that? If there were NO changes at heatsinks, electronics etc, there shouldn't be any difference. But there is^^

 

 

Will you notice it? maybe, maybe not.. Maybe that whole thing is much less relevant, than i make it sound (i didn't say, this is the only right way btw.).

But: Electronics also degrade after a while/the years. If you buy a PSU, that already runs at 80% Load at start.. You have not much room above. Maybe you put a stronger GPU later on, and boom, 90-100%. A good PSU can do that.. But it will be louder, and after a few years, maybe electronics won't be that perfect anymore, especially under a high % Load.

 

(Just like a Car with 80 PS won't have the same breaks compared to one wth 300 PS.

Or like the same Car with a bigger, stronger Engine CAN consume LESS fuel, in certain loads)

 

If we're talking about 5-10 bucks for 500w vs. 600w (or 400w vs. 500w, even if you pair it with a GTX 1060 for now), then i would take the higher one.

 

So yes.  There ARE advantages. Lower Load% gives you usually a lower Fan speed, which can be important for silent-freaks - as you can not control the PSU Fanspeed usually (and you really shouldn't even if you could).

Efficiency IS better when Load% doesn't go above 50-60% (it's still debateable, if that matters in terms of electricity bill etc... still worth mentioning).

 

 

However: All this is "no big deal", and i never said it were^^ Any good 500w PSU is perfectly fine.

I just wouldn't buy a PSU, that will have a too high Load% from the beginning. Let it have some breathing room. Few bucks for 100w extra for anything in the future is Nothing, when you buy a 600€ Graphics Card.

 

 

Small example: I used to have a 650w Corsair PSU back 8 years ago. I switched it out for a 480w BeQuiet Straight Power 9, because that was plenty for me, even with a GTX 570 back then.

I kinda wish i went with a 580w verison.

Even tho i didn't plan and don't plan getting an AMD GPU, but if i had waited for a Vega 64, instead getting a GTX 1080... i could NOT let both CPU and GPU run with a strong Overclock, without my PSU hitting over 90% load, or even more than 100% in certain situations. This WOULD have limited me in that Case. (a Vega 64 alone, overclocked can draw 350-400w)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Darkseth said:

Yes really.

Difference only 2-3%? Yes.

But still, my statement is absolutely correct. Just look at the efficiency curves of all PSUs, after 50-60% it gets lower again.

Yes, and?!
We are talking about 1%; maybe two at most with 80Plus Gold units between 20 and 80% load.

 

Quote

 

You don't NEED to use all 600w.

If your System sues 600w, then a 600w PSU is a wrong choice in first place. You NEVER want a PSU to run at (nearly) 100% load. No matter if it's an entry level one, of a high end.

Bitfenix disagrees with you.

DSC_4247Andere.th.jpg

And I believe Bifenix more than you.

 

And with good quality PSU, that really isn't any Problem these days.

 

It seems that you really underestimate the quality of modern PSU!

And assume that todays PSU are as bad as they were 15 Years ago, when they are not...

15 Years ago, be quiet had one line of PSU because that's all they could do.

Today they have 4 Lines:
System Power

Pure Power 

Straight Power

Dark Power

 

Because you just have so many more possibilitys to do Powersupplys than 15 Years ago!

Quote

 

Wrong again.

http://www.tweakpc.de/hardware/tests/netzteile/be_quiet_pure_power_10/s08.php

 

They do NOT use the same Heatsink, and they do NOT use the same electronics.

A 1000w PSU will have a better heatsink and stronger components, than a 400-500w PSU. A 350w PSU won't need a big heatsink ready to cool a 1000w PSU down.

You are wrong again.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=525 <- 500W

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=517 <- 600W

http://www.tweakpc.de/forum/netzteile/106324-userreview-quiet-pure-power-10-400w.html <- 400W

Even the 700W version looks the same:

https://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/be-quiet-pure-power-10-700w-cm-psu-review/4/

 

You have to check the PSU...

But I don't remember any that changes the plattform between ~400 and ~700W.

If there is a change its either at 750 or 850W.

 

And if you take a look at for exmaple a be quiet Dark Power Pro P7, they used the same design, the same Heatsinks for 450-1200W. 

 

Quote

Check your own Review please. Up untill 50% fan speed stays at a Minimum. After 50% Load percentage the heat becomes bigger, and the Fans go up. From 500rpm up to almost 1000 rpm at "only" 400w, which can be very realistic with a Mainstream CPU + a factory OCed GPU that consumes 200-250w (my i7 6700k + GTX 1080 get up to 340-350w Power consumption drawn directly out the Wall).

That Pure Power 10 500w will already have increased Fan speed. Because that is already 70%~ Load. While a 600w PSU would be at 58% Load.

Relative load is irrelevant. The absolute is what counts.

And if you take a look at the fan you see 1600rpm for 400 and 500W, 1800rpm for 600W and 2000rpm for 700W.

 

 

Then again, all 4 have the same layout, so how can the 700W be quieter than the 400W at the same load, especially since the 700W has a faster spinning fan...

 

 

Quote

 

Let me rephrase this question: You can clearly see, from 250w and more the Fans start to spin faster, because heat becomes greater. Right?

Now check this, Pure Power 10, but 800w: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/beQuiet/StraightPower_10_800W/6.html

That's not a Pure Power, that's a Straight Power...

There is no 800W Pure Power (yet)...

 

Then again, I have seen other fan diagrams directly from the Manufacturer of some PSU...

You haven't...

 

And what I'm saying is that you have to look at the PSU and not assume that the larger ones will have lower fan RPM. That's just bogus. 

I had that discussion a while back in a German Forum:

https://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f238/enermax-platimax-1050w-d-f-epf1050ewt-luefterlautstaerke-1179189.html

 

Quote

How do you explain that? If there were NO changes at heatsinks, electronics etc, there shouldn't be any difference. But there is^^

Easy

You are comparing Apples <-> Oranges and are comparing a Straight Power 10 to a Pure Power 10.

That are two different units...

 

Quote

But: Electronics also degrade after a while/the years.

Do you have ANY Proof of that?!

I only saw some people on the Internets discussing that and the only thing I could find was the Datasheets of Capacitors. Besides that, there is no evidence supporting the Claim!

 

Even the old Computerbase Test:

https://www.computerbase.de/2013-11/alte-netzteile-test/

 

Didn't support your claim...

As did one of the HardOCP PSU Retest ones...

 

Quote

If you buy a PSU, that already runs at 80% Load at start.. You have not much room above. Maybe you put a stronger GPU later on, and boom, 90-100%. A good PSU can do that.. But it will be louder, and after a few years, maybe electronics won't be that perfect anymore, especially under a high % Load.

When was the last time the Power Consumption in the normal Desktop really increased??

If we talk about sledgehammer Overclocking, that reduces the lifetime drastically and doubles the power consumption for something like 2-3% more performance, maybe...

 

Quote

(Just like a Car with 80 PS won't have the same breaks compared to one wth 300 PS.

Or like the same Car with a bigger, stronger Engine CAN consume LESS fuel, in certain loads)

Man, we don't talk about Cars.

We talk about Electronics.

And any comparisation between cars and Electronics doesn't make sense or helps anybody...

 

And Comparing Breaks with Heatsinks just doesn't make sense. Those two things are for different purposes, can't compare those and assume things because of that...

 

Quote

If we're talking about 5-10 bucks for 500w vs. 600w (or 400w vs. 500w, even if you pair it with a GTX 1060 for now), then i would take the higher one.

No, doesn't make sense.

You get a better one if you have the Money, not higher wattage one.

 

So instead of the Pure Power 600W I'd take this

Instead of this one especially for the same Price. Just doesn't make no sense.

 

The Pure Power 10 makes the most sense in 400W for under 50€. Maybe even 500W, but above that there are better offers.

 

 

Quote

So yes.  There ARE advantages. Lower Load% gives you usually a lower Fan speed, which can be important for silent-freaks - as you can not control the PSU Fanspeed usually (and you really shouldn't even if you could).

No, it does not.

Just take a look at Bitfenix Whisper M.

450 and 550W have something like 450rpm or so under lower load, 650W and up have 670rpm.

 

Because there are different fans used, a 0,45A one for the 450 and 550W, a 0,6A one for the 650W and up.

 

Just look at this:

https://www.hartware.de/2012/11/27/be-quiet-dark-power-pro-10-650w/8/

Dark Power Pro P10, 550W at 100% Load has a lower fan speed than any higher wattage one at 10%!

 

Quote

Efficiency IS better when Load% doesn't go above 50-60% (it's still debateable, if that matters in terms of electricity bill etc... still worth mentioning).

In 230VAC not by an amount that is worth talking about.

Then again, you can't assume things, you have to look for the unit to be tested!

 

Its entirely possible that two units are identical in performance and efficiency at the same load.

You can't just assume that the Higher Wattage one will be more efficient at that load at all.

 

Quote

Small example: I used to have a 650w Corsair PSU back 8 years ago. I switched it out for a 480w BeQuiet Straight Power 9, because that was plenty for me, even with a GTX 570 back then.

I kinda wish i went with a 580w verison.

No, because the Straight Power 9 is group regulated and thus not really something you should use with modern components..

So you should replace it anyway...

 

Quote

Even tho i didn't plan and don't plan getting an AMD GPU, but if i had waited for a Vega 64, instead getting a GTX 1080... i could NOT let both CPU and GPU run with a strong Overclock, without my PSU hitting over 90% load, or even more than 100% in certain situations. This WOULD have limited me in that Case. (a Vega 64 alone, overclocked can draw 350-400w)

We aren't talking about 2003 where PSU were shit and many weren't able to put out 100% load at higher ambient temperature for a longer period of time without overheating.

 

We are talking about 2018, where even cheapish PSU are close to 90% Efficiency!!

Those ancient things were around 60%, 72% Tops.
And the Topologys Changed as well, from Flyback to Double Forward to LLC-Resonant mode Converters.

And from No MOSFETS anywhere in the old days to only MOSFETs for +5VSB, for Primary Switching, Secondary Rectification...


The Problem is that people still use the same arguments they did 25 Years ago, when PSU became kinda important, the same "don't load to 100%!!!" when there really isn't any reason for that these days.


And even Manufacturers garuantee 100% Load at higher Ambient Temperatures for 24/7 Operation these days. But they can because a 550W today looses less than half the power than an older 350W at 100% Load...

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×