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Hey, as nobody replied to my previous post yesterday, is there any cheap (up to £45-50) GPU coolers that perform well and don't look as bad as the Arctic GPU coolers? The Arctic Xtreme IV could be an option, but it looks so bad in my opinion. 

 

Thanks, Bruno.

Quote me so I can reply back :) 

MY PC-> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1000W 80 Plus Titanium MOTHERBOARD: ASUS X370 Crosshair VI Hero CPU: RYZEN 7 3700X RAM: G.Skill 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C14 GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 HYBRID STORAGE: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe SSD; 2TB WD Caviar Blue; Crucial MX500 500GB SSD CUSTOM LOOP: EK-Velocity Nickel + Plexi CPU block, EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Acetal + Nickel GPU Block w/ EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate, EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM, EK-CoolStream PE 240 w/ 2x Noctua NF-F12 Chromax fans, EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm Nickel, Mayhems UV White tubing 13/10mm, 3x Noctua NF-S12A Chromax case fans

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Most artic gpu cooler looks bad imo but they perform well.

But i prefer to have a good cooler that looks ugly (*noctua!!) than the oppsite :P

Performance first then aesthetic.

 

 

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10 minutes ago, bruny06 said:

Snip

Blower style coolers are "louder"... not necessarily "LOUD"... and that would primarily apply to high TDP cards anyway. a GTX 1070 with a single 8 pin isn't going to be consuming all that much power and therefore won't be generating as much heat so it will not require as much cooling. It's still gonna make some noise, but its not going to be monstrously loud or anything, and its nothing you couldn't fix with a little fan curve tweaking if it bothers you that much. 

 

seeing as your concern was noise I hope this solves your issues as I've little input regarding aftermarket coolers. You could see if your GPU is supported by EKWB's A240G Fluid Gaming kit and go that route if you want. it's a lot more expensive than the option you're looking at currently but also a lot better.

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1070 Aero Blower doesnt use either reference PCB or Gaming X PCB design, so you only have 3 options.

 

1. Tweak the fan curve to reduce noise without getting too hot.

2. Use the ugly Arctic ones (or only use their heatsink and use your own case fans)

3. All-in-one water coolers.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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3 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

 

2. Use the ugly Arctic ones (or only use their heatsink and use your own case fans)

 

This give me another idea. How about strapping a good case fan onto the existing heatsink instead? Fixing the fan in place might need some creativity, but it is cheap way to replace the cooler.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Gee I know why nobody answer MSi Aero is probably the worse graphics card in existence :/ 

 

I know someone who insisted buying the 1080 Ti Aero even though I specifically said that was the only 1080 Ti one should avoid... result of it is that the card runs at 88Cº throttling itself all the way down to 1700mhz~ on a bloody loud cooler... for comparison my EVGA FE card does 77Cº maintaining a perfect 2000mhz clock on full load.

 

As stated by @Jurrunio your best way around this poor performing cooler would be an AiO but damn that seems a lot of trouble and spendings for a shitty card "binned the other way" since MSi throws their worse performing nVidia chips on the Aero and Armor cards.

 

Would rather sell it at a loss just to get a brand new 1070 Ti that doesn't suck this time to call it problem solved.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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57 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

since MSi throws their worse performing nVidia chips on the Aero and Armor cards.

 

1

Not so much the Armor, since it uses the same PCB design as Gaming X cards. Armor is just Gaming X with a shitty cooler.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Just now, Jurrunio said:

.

The graphical processing unit of the card has nothing to do with the cooler, Aero and Armor are the cheapest line ups for more reasons than just crappy coolers, when MSi does the binning process to ensure the Gaming X and other high end variants gets the best chips to ensure the factory overclocks the Aero and Armor does gets the worse ones after the process, so getting an Aero or Armor with full time overclocking in mind even if you'll go water cooling it is a worse idea than simply getting the FE cards or something.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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1 hour ago, Princess Cadence said:

Gee I know why nobody answer MSi Aero is probably the worse graphics card in existence :/ 

 

I know someone who insisted buying the 1080 Ti Aero even though I specifically said that was the only 1080 Ti one should avoid... result of it is that the card runs at 88Cº throttling itself all the way down to 1700mhz~ on a bloody loud cooler... for comparison my EVGA FE card does 77Cº maintaining a perfect 2000mhz clock on full load.

 

As stated by @Jurrunio your best way around this poor performing cooler would be an AiO but damn that seems a lot of trouble and spendings for a shitty card "binned the other way" since MSi throws their worse performing nVidia chips on the Aero and Armor cards.

 

Would rather sell it at a loss just to get a brand new 1070 Ti that doesn't suck this time to call it problem solved.

Well, I would totally agree with you. my first graphics card was a blower style GTX 660 and I regretted buying it for a long time, and I would never buy another blower style card as I'm quite picky when it comes to noise, however, this GTX 1070 cost me absolutely nothing as I can easily sell the same PC I bought with my current GTX 1060 instead of the GTX 1070 for the same price. In fact, I'm 99% sure I already have a buyer for it (a friend of mine said he wanted it, but I didn't take it for granted). I will think about selling it and getting a better 1070, even used.

Quote me so I can reply back :) 

MY PC-> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1000W 80 Plus Titanium MOTHERBOARD: ASUS X370 Crosshair VI Hero CPU: RYZEN 7 3700X RAM: G.Skill 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C14 GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 HYBRID STORAGE: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe SSD; 2TB WD Caviar Blue; Crucial MX500 500GB SSD CUSTOM LOOP: EK-Velocity Nickel + Plexi CPU block, EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Acetal + Nickel GPU Block w/ EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate, EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM, EK-CoolStream PE 240 w/ 2x Noctua NF-F12 Chromax fans, EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm Nickel, Mayhems UV White tubing 13/10mm, 3x Noctua NF-S12A Chromax case fans

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1 hour ago, Jurrunio said:

1070 Aero Blower doesnt use either reference PCB or Gaming X PCB design, so you only have 3 options.

 

1. Tweak the fan curve to reduce noise without getting too hot.

2. Use the ugly Arctic ones (or only use their heatsink and use your own case fans)

3. All-in-one water coolers.

The load noise wouldn't bother me much, what would bother me is when I'm watching a TV show or YouTube and I can hear the damn thing. Yeah, I'm that picky.

Quote me so I can reply back :) 

MY PC-> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1000W 80 Plus Titanium MOTHERBOARD: ASUS X370 Crosshair VI Hero CPU: RYZEN 7 3700X RAM: G.Skill 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C14 GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 HYBRID STORAGE: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe SSD; 2TB WD Caviar Blue; Crucial MX500 500GB SSD CUSTOM LOOP: EK-Velocity Nickel + Plexi CPU block, EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Acetal + Nickel GPU Block w/ EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate, EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM, EK-CoolStream PE 240 w/ 2x Noctua NF-F12 Chromax fans, EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm Nickel, Mayhems UV White tubing 13/10mm, 3x Noctua NF-S12A Chromax case fans

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1 minute ago, bruny06 said:

.

Being a blower isn't the issue, there are great blower cards like the Founders Edition and Asus Turbo, it is just that MSi made their lowest end possible card this blower Aero one...

 

If you can replace it all te better I still strongly advise stepping up for a 1070 Ti as well since that thing is identical to the 1080 for the original msrp of the 1070 after overclocking to give you even more "future proofing" for what it is worth...

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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2 hours ago, Zyndo said:

Blower style coolers are "louder"... not necessarily "LOUD"... and that would primarily apply to high TDP cards anyway. a GTX 1070 with a single 8 pin isn't going to be consuming all that much power and therefore won't be generating as much heat so it will not require as much cooling. It's still gonna make some noise, but its not going to be monstrously loud or anything, and its nothing you couldn't fix with a little fan curve tweaking if it bothers you that much. 

 

seeing as your concern was noise I hope this solves your issues as I've little input regarding aftermarket coolers. You could see if your GPU is supported by EKWB's A240G Fluid Gaming kit and go that route if you want. it's a lot more expensive than the option you're looking at currently but also a lot better.

What worries me is the idle noise, as when I'm in a middle of a firefight or something in a game, I'm really not going to hear it, but I like it nice and quiet when I'm not gaming. As for the water block, that wouldn't be an option as it is way too expensive. I would rather sell it and use the money of a water block for a better version of the 1070 or even a 1070Ti.

Quote me so I can reply back :) 

MY PC-> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1000W 80 Plus Titanium MOTHERBOARD: ASUS X370 Crosshair VI Hero CPU: RYZEN 7 3700X RAM: G.Skill 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C14 GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 HYBRID STORAGE: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe SSD; 2TB WD Caviar Blue; Crucial MX500 500GB SSD CUSTOM LOOP: EK-Velocity Nickel + Plexi CPU block, EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Acetal + Nickel GPU Block w/ EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate, EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM, EK-CoolStream PE 240 w/ 2x Noctua NF-F12 Chromax fans, EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm Nickel, Mayhems UV White tubing 13/10mm, 3x Noctua NF-S12A Chromax case fans

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4 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

Being a blower isn't the issue, there are great blower cards like the Founders Edition and Asus Turbo, it is just that MSi made their lowest end possible card this blower Aero one...

 

If you can replace it all te better I still strongly advise stepping up for a 1070 Ti as well since that thing is identical to the 1080 for the original msrp of the 1070 after overclocking to give you even more "future proofing" for what it is worth...

I will look into it, although, I'm afraid the extra cost for a 1070Ti would be too much, besides, I currently only have a 1080p monitor, so, a 1070Ti would be a waste in my current PC.

Quote me so I can reply back :) 

MY PC-> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1000W 80 Plus Titanium MOTHERBOARD: ASUS X370 Crosshair VI Hero CPU: RYZEN 7 3700X RAM: G.Skill 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C14 GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 HYBRID STORAGE: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe SSD; 2TB WD Caviar Blue; Crucial MX500 500GB SSD CUSTOM LOOP: EK-Velocity Nickel + Plexi CPU block, EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Acetal + Nickel GPU Block w/ EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate, EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM, EK-CoolStream PE 240 w/ 2x Noctua NF-F12 Chromax fans, EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm Nickel, Mayhems UV White tubing 13/10mm, 3x Noctua NF-S12A Chromax case fans

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1 hour ago, bruny06 said:

What worries me is the idle noise, as when I'm in a middle of a firefight or something in a game, I'm really not going to hear it, but I like it nice and quiet when I'm not gaming. As for the water block, that wouldn't be an option as it is way too expensive. I would rather sell it and use the money of a water block for a better version of the 1070 or even a 1070Ti.

well like I said, blower style fans are "louder".... but unless you have your system right up to your ear with an unreasonably set fan curve, you're unlikely to hear it very much beyond the ambient or background sound in your game. They're really not that loud (maybe on a titan or some other card which generates an unruly amount of heat, but otherwise you're going to be fine).

 

All of that is doubly true if you wear headset of any kind. I mean you say you have the card, plug it in and use it. figure out if you can tolerate its level of noise. you always have the option to just sell it afterwards if you feel it's still to loud or order some kind of aftermarket cooler. not a lot lost in just trying.

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9 hours ago, Princess Cadence said:

The graphical processing unit of the card has nothing to do with the cooler, Aero and Armor are the cheapest line ups for more reasons than just crappy coolers, when MSi does the binning process to ensure the Gaming X and other high end variants gets the best chips to ensure the factory overclocks the Aero and Armor does gets the worse ones after the process, so getting an Aero or Armor with full time overclocking in mind even if you'll go water cooling it is a worse idea than simply getting the FE cards or something.

Nothing wrong with the Armor. Literally the same card as the Gaming X with a 1070 cooler. 

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