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Random (semi-)novel cooling idea (and possible video idea for LTT).

pyrojoe34

So I was just thinking today about a possible interesting way to get improved component cooling by combining traditional liquid cooling and evaporation cooling. I know Linus already did that crazy bong cooler but this idea would involve a lot less work/space, mostly use already existing parts, and would presumably increase the evaporation surface area to volume ratio and efficiency compared to the bong cooler.

 

1. Take a custom loop (or even AIO with long enough tubes) and move the radiator a safe distance from the PC (outside like with whole house water cooling system would probably be best).

2. Find (or find a way to seal) waterproof fans to mount on the radiator (optional, this idea should even work without fans but not nearly as well and maybe worse than just a normal loop).

3. Buy a small water mister and allow it to lightly spray water onto the radiator fins (enough to continually coat the fins but not block airflow).

 

This water would then be rapidly and constantly undergoing a phase-change by evaporation mediated by the low pressure (high velocity flow > lower pressure > increased evaporation) of the air from the fans which would in turn, draw heat from the radiator much more efficiently than just air would. In theory this evaporative cooling may even allow for a loop temperature slightly lower than ambient (a well established possibility with efficient evaporative cooling). This would obviously work best in a dry area (so not Vancouver) where relative humidity is low but you could probably test the concept even in the PNW by doing it in a room with a dehumidifier to have drier air.

 

I'd be interested to see how well this might work. @LinusTech what are your thoughts? This would be a cheap but (IMO) interesting concept to try out.

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Or take a rad and dump it into a bath of water + ice. Tadaa sub ambient temps on a budget!

It is a nice idea but relatively complicated imo. But still not a bad idea, i'm wondering how ghetto a posible solution might look :D

If you want my attention, quote meh! D: or just stick an @samcool55 in your post :3

Spying on everyone to fight against terrorism is like shooting a mosquito with a cannon

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1 minute ago, samcool55 said:

Or take a rad and dump it into a bath of water + ice. Tadaa sub ambient temps on a budget!

It is a nice idea but relatively complicated imo. But still not a bad idea, i'm wondering how ghetto a posible solution might look :D

That requires you to constantly refill the ice as it melts. This would allow you to set it up and just let it run in perpetuity given a constant water source (with a low volume mister this would also likely take no more than a liter of water a day so much less wasteful as well).

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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This is already a thing where people will mist their AC evaporator coils to theoretically improve cooling performance.

 

The problem is that if your water isn't filtered to the point of removing all minerals, they will eventually cake on to your radiator.  People have ruined their AC evaporator unit by doing this.

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Just now, AnonymousGuy said:

This is already a thing where people will mist their AC evaporator coils to theoretically improve cooling performance.

 

The problem is that if your water isn't filtered to the point of removing all minerals, they will eventually cake on to your radiator.

True, although a decent RO system (many places/houses may already have one installed) could prevent mineral buildup.

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Just now, pyrojoe34 said:

That requires you to constantly refill the ice as it melts. This would allow you to set it up and just let it run in perpetuity given a constant water source (with a low volume mister this would also likely take no more than a liter of water a day so much less wasteful as well).

Yeah you can use ice or just a constant flow of cold water, usually tap water is colder than ambient temps so even without ice it should still be relatively efficient, just not as efficient as it would be with ice :P

 

Or throw in some dry ice, lasts longer and gives a nice effect as well :D

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1 minute ago, pyrojoe34 said:

That requires you to constantly refill the ice as it melts. 

Get an ice machine (some of them re-use the water from the melted ice to make more ice), somehow rig it so the radiator can fit in there and the lid still closes and you're good to go xD

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2 minutes ago, RKRiley said:

Get an ice machine (some of them re-use the water from the melted ice to make more ice), somehow rig it so the radiator can fit in there and the lid still closes and you're good to go xD

Mild facepalm, but you're better off just using a water chiller than having the intermediate step of making ice :)

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3 minutes ago, RKRiley said:

Get an ice machine (some of them re-use the water from the melted ice to make more ice), somehow rig it so the radiator can fit in there and the lid still closes and you're good to go xD

Again, feasible options but an ice machine (freezer) would add 500-1000W of extra power use. A single small mister would take a few watts at most so better cooling at almost no cost.

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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As a person who uses a small mist maker for an small office room: it will indeed get clogged up with crap within ~15 days of 24/7 usage. Even is you use some of the cleaner water supplies.

 

It might still work good enough if you would just spray a little of water on the rad. A system like a plant sprayer, which would spray a bit every minute/5 minutes. (and keep cleaning the rad ofcourse)

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1 minute ago, AnonymousGuy said:

Mild facepalm, but you're better off just using a water chiller than having the intermediate step of making ice :)

 

Just now, pyrojoe34 said:

Again, all decent options but an ice machine (freezer) would add 500-1000W of extra power use. A single small mister would take a few watts at most so better cooling at almost no cost.

 

I wasn't being serious with that suggestion ya know.

Who tf could actually think that'd be a good idea lol.

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Just now, Dutch-stoner said:

As a person who uses a small mist maker for an small office room: it will indeed get clogged up with crap within ~15 days of 24/7 usage. Even is you use some of the cleaner water supplies.

 

It might still work good enough if you would just spray a little of water on the rad. A system like a plant sprayer, which would spray a bit every minute/5 minutes. (and keep cleaning the rad ofcourse)

With a decent RO system (like many people already may have in their homes) you could minimize any mineral buildup. Sure using regular tap water would be a bad idea but an RO or DI system would solve that problem.

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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I don't know what a RO or DI system is. (our drinking water is clean and all, no filters requires @ homes) But even when using demineralized water, I had lots of crap build-up.

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Just now, Dutch-stoner said:

I don't know what a RO or DI system is. (our drinking water is clean and all, no filters requires @ homes) But even when using demineralized water, I had lots of crap build-up.

RO (reverse osmosis) systems are common in places with hard water to remove impurities in water using a semi-permeable membrane. DI (deinonizing) system is essentially the same thing but more common in labs where clean water is critical. This is often done using electrodeionization to remove any charged impurities (like calcium or other salts). There are many different "levels" of water purity (everything from nanopure to DI to tap water) so the quality of the system would have a huge impact on mineralization. The best systems will combine a few methods (like UV oxidation, ultrafiltration and dialysis) to make water that contains ~1 ppb (part per billion) of impurities in the water (basically 1 in 1 billion molecules is not water, which is about 300k-500k times less impurities than found in tap water).

 

Just in case you're interested at all...

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Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

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CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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It's interesting. So how would you like to mount your (VERY expencive lab+ grade) equipment to your consumer grade radiator again?

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Just now, Dutch-stoner said:

It's interesting. So how would you like to mount your (VERY expencive lab+ grade) equipment to your consumer grade radiator again?

Well obviously you wouldn't need that high a quality water for this to work. Like I said a basic RO system someone might have should do the trick (I think they go for as little as $100 new), then just attach the mister to an existing faucet. Even someone without a system could just have a reservoir filled with cheap DI or distilled water (like 80c a gallon) which should go very slowly once you figure out the optimum flow rate.

 

I mean, this isn't meant to be a super practical idea that people will just start doing at home. Just an interesting concept that I would like to see done just to know how well it works. I know there are data centers that use evaporative cooling on an industrial scale so it's been successfully done before.

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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A maybe even cheaper but way cooler and moar durrable idea would be: small desk fridge. Break it open, and get the cold side element. Put it in a bucket, and put the rad in the bucket. Add water, and you are done. You should however need to really use the cooled computer part, because me thinks you might get issues with ice inside the rad/loop.

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7 minutes ago, Dutch-stoner said:

A maybe even cheaper but way cooler and moar durrable idea would be: small desk fridge. Break it open, and get the cold side element. Put it in a bucket, and put the rad in the bucket. Add water, and you are done. You should however need to really use the cooled computer part, because me thinks you might get issues with ice inside the rad/loop.

That has been tried before and there are two main issues with it:

1. Fridges/freezers are meant to cool slowly and in cycles, they also cannot actually deal with very much heat and certainly not constant heat. This will probably end up making almost no difference in cooling and blowing out the compressor after a couple days.

2. Fridges/freezers use a lot of power (upwards of 500W) at which point you would be better off just getting a purpose made phase-change cooler designed for PC cooling.

 

The reason I though this idea was interesting is it would add at most a few watts of power for the pump while presumably giving massive improvement to cooling.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Other Systems:

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Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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I don't have too much actual knowlage, but I do have some common sence. I agree that them liquid temps in the radiator can get below ambient. Main advantage of your setup. However, there will be an limit to how much heat it can remove. Will if be enough to get high OC on close to ambient temps. With a regular sized setup, I doubt your loop will get below ambient. Improved, but not below ambient.

 

I would personaly rather put an radiator inside an pond, lake or even better: river. (water flow) You "should" be able to get rid of massive amounts of heat in a rather efficient way. Your temps will not get below ambient water temps, but the amount of heat it can dump... Massive.

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