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Just picked up my PC from a tech store had taken it to fix a hdd issue. I turn on the PC and the first thing I notice is that the drive is recognised as SATA 2 and not SATA 3 like it used to. So, they changed that without even telling me. Next, I try to boot from the Windows CD to do a clean install, before I even pressed delete to enter the bios, the PC boots into a non-activated version of windows 10, and again they had not even informed me about this. So, after formatting my NEW hard drive, I installed windows 8.1. Later, I opened up the PC and saw that they changed the 20+4 pin connector ffrom my PSU to a cheap one, without even giving it back to me, like they did with my old SATA cable. I only paid 20€, but only because I did not agree to any changes to my PC. Had I agreed to all changes, they would have replaced my PSU, because it apparently was "faulty" (even though it works just fine) with a cheap one they make exclusively at their stores, (not even 80+) and would have  charged me 100€ for a new one and the installation of it, they said they would install windows for 40€ (40€ just to click next a couple of times) and then I would be charged an additional 60€ just to pay for the "repair" (more like replacemet). It would come to a grand total of 200€ down the drain. This angers me a lot since this specific store is quite popular here, and many people, who perhaps don't know of PCs go there just to get some low quality PSU in their system which will inevitably show problems within the next 6 months of using the PC, which will result in them paying for yet another "repair".

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That's why I (and some others) rely on this forum to solve PC problems. I myself got scammed in buying a GTX 970 back when it's 3 months old at $400. What's worse than that? Another shop, 5 meters away sells the same thing at $350 with same warranty.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

That's why I (and some others) rely on this forum to solve PC problems. I myself got scammed in buying a GTX 970 back when it's 3 months old at $400. What's worse than that? Another shop, 5 meters away sells the same thing at $350 with same warranty.

Yeah even though I am a new user here I will certainly rely on this forum aswell

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Just now, AlexTr said:

Well I don't think that would change anything since that method clearly makes them a huge profit

Well yeah this kind of stuff you should do yourself, if the HDD failed you should've just bought a brand new cheap 120gb SSD + a new 1tb HDD installed fresh clean win10 on the SSD and enjoy, it'd have cost the same but you'd have gotten much better stuff.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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The only thing I suggest you do is report the tech store to the local authorities but I can't guarantee they will take any action.   

زندگی از چراغ

Intel Core i7 7800X 6C/12T (4.5GHz), Corsair H150i Pro RGB (360mm), Asus Prime X299-A, Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4X4GB & 2X8GB 3000MHz DDR4), MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X 8G (2.113GHz core & 9.104GHz memory), 1 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB NVMe M.2, 1 Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, 1 Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD, 1 WD Red 1TB mechanical drive, Corsair RM750X 80+ Gold fully modular PSU, Corsair Obsidian 750D full tower case, Corsair Glaive RGB mouse, Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 (Cherry MX Red) keyboard, Asus VN247HA (1920x1080 60Hz 16:9), Audio Technica ATH-M20x headphones & Windows 10 Home 64 bit. 

 

 

The time Linus replied to me on one of my threads: 

 

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7 minutes ago, AlexTr said:

recognized as SATA 2 and not SATA 3 like it used to

They probably plugged the drive back in to the wrong port. Motherboards can have SATAII & SATAIII ports. Though a hard drive wont saturate SATAII anyways.

 

9 minutes ago, AlexTr said:

before I even pressed delete to enter the bios, the PC boots into a non-activated version of windows 10

They might have activated Quick Boot in the BIOS. Also to install an OS without request is definitely wrong.

 

11 minutes ago, AlexTr said:

changed the 20+4 pin connector ffrom my PSU to a cheap one

How? Is your PSU modular or did they sit there with a pin removing tool just to get a piece of extruded plastic off your PSU?

 

13 minutes ago, AlexTr said:

replaced my PSU, because it apparently was "faulty" (even though it works just fine) with a cheap one they make exclusively at their stores

A PSU made exclusively at a shop I would either throw away immediately or inspect it to see if it's actually made from quality components. (Probably not)

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