Question about Car Audio

[littlepigboy5]

I want to upgrade my car audio system.  I installed a 5.1 surround system in my movie room, so I have a good understanding of wire impedance, receiver channels, speakers, amps, subs, etc.  I have a few questions regarding car audio.  I found that there are amplifiers for the normal speakers (the 4 in the doors), but not the sub, and then a separate amp for the sub.  Are there amps that will power each speaker and the sub, or do I have to get an amp for the 4 speakers, and the sub seperately?  Is an amp built into the dashboard music player thing, or do I have to buy a music dashboard thing and an amp seperately and find a place for the amp in my car?  Also, are there form factors for the dashboard music thing like motherboards, or do I just take measurements and fine one that fits?  Are the amps powered by the battery, meaning I would have to run a wire from the battery to the amp, or are there already wires coming from the battery strewn about the car?  Also, if it does come from the battery, does this have a significant impact on Gas Mileage?  Do speakers (and possibly sub) go directly to the amp with normal speakers wire (similair to what i may have used for my surround setup), or are there proprietary car connectors?  Lastly, Do car's already come with subwoofers, in which case I could just put a new sub where the stock one is, or do they not come with subs and I just have to put it under a seat or something?

[treeroy]

I don't know how amps work but can safely say that no, cars don't come with subwoofers. You'd need to find a place to put it - people usually put them in the boot.

[DaBeggad]

So somebody stole your car radio and now you just sit in silence?

[treeroy]

3 minutes ago, DaBeggad said:

So somebody stole your car radio and now you just sit in silence?

What? He said he wants to upgrade it.

[DaBeggad]

1 minute ago, treeroy said:

What? He said he wants to upgrade it.

you dont get the reference  

[tatte]

1. With most amps you can use different configurations of speakers. You'll need to consult the manual to see what each model is capable of supporting.

2. What size stereo fits and what wires/speakers are preinstalled depends on your car, the impact on your gas mileage will depend on the hardware you end up using.

 

Mind telling us the maker, model and year of your car?

[vong]

35 minutes ago, littlepigboy5 said:

I want to upgrade my car audio system.  I installed a 5.1 surround system in my movie room, so I have a good understanding of wire impedance, receiver channels, speakers, amps, subs, etc.  I have a few questions regarding car audio.  I found that there are amplifiers for the normal speakers (the 4 in the doors), but not the sub, and then a separate amp for the sub.  Are there amps that will power each speaker and the sub, or do I have to get an amp for the 4 speakers, and the sub seperately?  Is an amp built into the dashboard music player thing, or do I have to buy a music dashboard thing and an amp seperately and find a place for the amp in my car?  Also, are there form factors for the dashboard music thing like motherboards, or do I just take measurements and fine one that fits?  Are the amps powered by the battery, meaning I would have to run a wire from the battery to the amp, or are there already wires coming from the battery strewn about the car?  Also, if it does come from the battery, does this have a significant impact on Gas Mileage?  Do speakers (and possibly sub) go directly to the amp with normal speakers wire (similair to what i may have used for my surround setup), or are there proprietary car connectors?  Lastly, Do car's already come with subwoofers, in which case I could just put a new sub where the stock one is, or do they not come with subs and I just have to put it under a seat or something?

Tell us what you drive first and when looking at parts do not be fooled by the watts given look for the rms and make sure the ohms match.

 

Amps- You can get seperate amps for speakers and subwoofers but can get a single amp if the subwoofer isn't very powerful (under 400rms). For example a 4 channel amp will drive 4 speakers but some can have the channels bridged to give more power. Seperate amps for subwoofers are called monoblocks and will only have one channel (hence mono) but can drive 2 subwoofers if wired properly. Alternatively you can buy a 5 channel amp for 4 speakers and 1 subwoofer, 1 channel should be a bit more powerful to handle a subwoofer.

 

There are amps in aftermarket headunits but they aren't very powerful (about 50rms?) but you will want a dedicated amp for all speakers and subwoofer. You've got single din and double din sizes for headunits but cars nowadays have integrated systems so you can't swap them out and this is where we talk about DSP's.

 

DSP- Digital Signal Processor can be used to achieve the best sound quality as they're much more tunable than a headunit. You don't need one but if you're chasing the absolute best sound quality then it's a must. If you don't want to replace the stock headunit then grab one.

 

Wiring- You will need to run a positive wire with a fuse from the battery to the amps and run a ground wire from the amps as short as possible to anywhere in the car that is sturdy (seatbelt/seat bolts). I'd recommend 4 gauge wire as a minimum. No, it won't affect the car's efficiency. Recommended to use aftermarket wiring like 14 gauge unless you want a fire. As for connecting the headunit to amp it's pretty much the same as a home theater, RCA to RCA but you will most likely need a 'remote wire' for the amps to turn on with the iginition.

 

Cars can come with factory subwoofers but they're usually just a large speakers that are like 8". Only cars with a 'premium' sound system would have one. You could replace one but again I'd recommend get a 10" or 12" subwoofer in a box.

[SCHISCHKA]

Your post is very long so I only read the first half and I missed any tldr you might have given. My car  is European and came with surround sound and there is no way for me to upgrade or add a sub. Some cars you can fold down the back seat and throw in an amp with a sub. Most cars you put 6x9 three way speakers in the tray behind the back seat with an amp and this is the most popular way to improve the sound. You do not need more than one amp when you design cross over properly. Usually the best speakers you can put in car doors are 6". 

Tldr it depends on your car and what it can fit

[rhyseyness]

What @vong said.

Only thing he didn't address is the size of head units.

They tend to be standard size unless you have a weird dashboard.

The standard size is DIN or double DIN.

DIN is like 1U in a server and double DIN is like 2U.

I went to Amazon.com as I don't know where in the world you are:

Single DIN example; Double DIN example

Hope this helps

[littlepigboy5]

9 hours ago, tatte said:

1. With most amps you can use different configurations of speakers. You'll need to consult the manual to see what each model is capable of supporting.

2. What size stereo fits and what wires/speakers are preinstalled depends on your car, the impact on your gas mileage will depend on the hardware you end up using.

 

Mind telling us the maker, model and year of your car?

 

9 hours ago, vong said:

Tell us what you drive first and when looking at parts do not be fooled by the watts given look for the rms and make sure the ohms match.

 

Amps- You can get seperate amps for speakers and subwoofers but can get a single amp if the subwoofer isn't very powerful (under 400rms). For example a 4 channel amp will drive 4 speakers but some can have the channels bridged to give more power. Seperate amps for subwoofers are called monoblocks and will only have one channel (hence mono) but can drive 2 subwoofers if wired properly. Alternatively you can buy a 5 channel amp for 4 speakers and 1 subwoofer, 1 channel should be a bit more powerful to handle a subwoofer.

 

There are amps in aftermarket headunits but they aren't very powerful (about 50rms?) but you will want a dedicated amp for all speakers and subwoofer. You've got single din and double din sizes for headunits but cars nowadays have integrated systems so you can't swap them out and this is where we talk about DSP's.

 

DSP- Digital Signal Processor can be used to achieve the best sound quality as they're much more tunable than a headunit. You don't need one but if you're chasing the absolute best sound quality then it's a must. If you don't want to replace the stock headunit then grab one.

 

Wiring- You will need to run a positive wire with a fuse from the battery to the amps and run a ground wire from the amps as short as possible to anywhere in the car that is sturdy (seatbelt/seat bolts). I'd recommend 4 gauge wire as a minimum. No, it won't affect the car's efficiency. Recommended to use aftermarket wiring like 14 gauge unless you want a fire. As for connecting the headunit to amp it's pretty much the same as a home theater, RCA to RCA but you will most likely need a 'remote wire' for the amps to turn on with the iginition.

 

Cars can come with factory subwoofers but they're usually just a large speakers that are like 8". Only cars with a 'premium' sound system would have one. You could replace one but again I'd recommend get a 10" or 12" subwoofer in a box.

Infiniti g35 2004

[littlepigboy5]

9 hours ago, tatte said:

1. With most amps you can use different configurations of speakers. You'll need to consult the manual to see what each model is capable of supporting.

2. What size stereo fits and what wires/speakers are preinstalled depends on your car, the impact on your gas mileage will depend on the hardware you end up using.

 

Mind telling us the maker, model and year of your car?

 

9 hours ago, vong said:

Tell us what you drive first and when looking at parts do not be fooled by the watts given look for the rms and make sure the ohms match.

 

Amps- You can get seperate amps for speakers and subwoofers but can get a single amp if the subwoofer isn't very powerful (under 400rms). For example a 4 channel amp will drive 4 speakers but some can have the channels bridged to give more power. Seperate amps for subwoofers are called monoblocks and will only have one channel (hence mono) but can drive 2 subwoofers if wired properly. Alternatively you can buy a 5 channel amp for 4 speakers and 1 subwoofer, 1 channel should be a bit more powerful to handle a subwoofer.

 

There are amps in aftermarket headunits but they aren't very powerful (about 50rms?) but you will want a dedicated amp for all speakers and subwoofer. You've got single din and double din sizes for headunits but cars nowadays have integrated systems so you can't swap them out and this is where we talk about DSP's.

 

DSP- Digital Signal Processor can be used to achieve the best sound quality as they're much more tunable than a headunit. You don't need one but if you're chasing the absolute best sound quality then it's a must. If you don't want to replace the stock headunit then grab one.

 

Wiring- You will need to run a positive wire with a fuse from the battery to the amps and run a ground wire from the amps as short as possible to anywhere in the car that is sturdy (seatbelt/seat bolts). I'd recommend 4 gauge wire as a minimum. No, it won't affect the car's efficiency. Recommended to use aftermarket wiring like 14 gauge unless you want a fire. As for connecting the headunit to amp it's pretty much the same as a home theater, RCA to RCA but you will most likely need a 'remote wire' for the amps to turn on with the iginition.

 

Cars can come with factory subwoofers but they're usually just a large speakers that are like 8". Only cars with a 'premium' sound system would have one. You could replace one but again I'd recommend get a 10" or 12" subwoofer in a box.

Infiniti g35 20

[vong]

8 hours ago, littlepigboy5 said:

 

Infiniti g35 2004

Okay that has in integrated headunit so you're gonna want either a Line Output Convertor or a DSP (DSP will give you more tunability but cost way more). You can just grab a Stinger 4 channel Line Output Converter or a 2 channel one and use rca splitters. The LC8 is a good DSP if you're on a budget or you can go Audison Bit1, Arc Audio PS8 and Mosconi DSP if you want high end. Being that the car is a coupe I'd suggest just getting a set of front speakers instead of front and rear.

[littlepigboy5]

5 hours ago, vong said:

Okay that has in integrated headunit so you're gonna want either a Line Output Convertor or a DSP (DSP will give you more tunability but cost way more). You can just grab a Stinger 4 channel Line Output Converter or a 2 channel one and use rca splitters. The LC8 is a good DSP if you're on a budget or you can go Audison Bit1, Arc Audio PS8 and Mosconi DSP if you want high end. Being that the car is a coupe I'd suggest just getting a set of front speakers instead of front and rear.

I have the sedan version.  Keep in mind i'm new to the car audio terminology.  Is the Headunit the thing in the middle of the front of the car where i control the radio and stuff?  What does a line output converter or DSP have to do with the headunit?  Also, the headunit seems to not fit a standard of either single our double din, so can I not replace it with a custom one like this http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-built-in-bluetooth-in-dash-cd-dm-receiver-black/4898601.p?skuId=4898601&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=737279d6-b1cc-4439-8788-208fa26f3279&ksprof_id=18&ksaffcode=pg113828&ksdevice=c&lsft=ref:212,loc:2 ? What is the Line Output Converter/DSP for?  It's my understanding that, if I were to upgrade, Sound goes from the headunit, to an amp, to the speakers, so where does the Line output converter/DSP fit in this sequence?

[vong]

1 minute ago, littlepigboy5 said:

I have the sedan version.  Keep in mind i'm new to the car audio terminology.  Is the Headunit the thing in the middle of the front of the car where i control the radio and stuff?  What does a line output converter or DSP have to do with the headunit?  Also, the headunit seems to not fit a standard of either single our double din, so can I not replace it with a custom one like this http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-built-in-bluetooth-in-dash-cd-dm-receiver-black/4898601.p?skuId=4898601&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=737279d6-b1cc-4439-8788-208fa26f3279&ksprof_id=18&ksaffcode=pg113828&ksdevice=c&lsft=ref:212,loc:2 ? What is the Line Output Converter/DSP for?  It's my understanding that, if I were to upgrade, Sound goes from the headunit, to an amp, to the speakers, so where does the Line output converter/DSP fit in this sequence?

Oh, didn't know they came in sedans as well. Headunit is what controls all the audio stuff, the source. Most factory don't come with RCA outputs so you will need either a LOC or DSP for it, all you need to do is tap some of the stock speaker wires from the headunit to the LOC or DSP and you've got RCA's to connect to the amp/s but there are some amps on the market that have an LOC in them.

 

The G35's headunit looks like an integrated with the AC controls so you can't really remove it but there are conversion kits to fit a single or double dim aftermarket unit. If you decide to get a conversion kit and aftermarket unit then you won't need a LOC but can get a DSP if you want the most out of your speakers.

 

Headunit > LOC or DSP> amp> speakers

 

If you don't have passengers often then I'd say just get front speakers and a sub. No point in wasting money on rears and a 4 channel amp (unless bridging) since you don't listen from behind.

 

Car audio isn't as simple as home audio but still simple. Just google or youtube G35 installs and you'll find something like a guide. As for speaker brands that's up to your budget. I'd recommend you to stay away from mainstream brands like Alpine, Sony, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Kenwood and Pioneer. Alpine, Pioneer and Rockford Fosgate have some good stuff but you gotta spend more whereas Focal, Morel, Hertz, Audison and Dynaudio have very good speakers in all price ranges.

[littlepigboy5]

2 minutes ago, vong said:

Oh, didn't know they came in sedans as well. Headunit is what controls all the audio stuff, the source. Most factory don't come with RCA outputs so you will need either a LOC or DSP for it, all you need to do is tap some of the stock speaker wires from the headunit to the LOC or DSP and you've got RCA's to connect to the amp/s but there are some amps on the market that have an LOC in them.

 

The G35's headunit looks like an integrated with the AC controls so you can't really remove it but there are conversion kits to fit a single or double dim aftermarket unit. If you decide to get a conversion kit and aftermarket unit then you won't need a LOC but can get a DSP if you want the most out of your speakers.

 

Headunit > LOC or DSP> amp> speakers

 

If you don't have passengers often then I'd say just get front speakers and a sub. No point in wasting money on rears and a 4 channel amp (unless bridging) since you don't listen from behind.

 

Car audio isn't as simple as home audio but still simple. Just google or youtube G35 installs and you'll find something like a guide. As for speaker brands that's up to your budget. I'd recommend you to stay away from mainstream brands like Alpine, Sony, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Kenwood and Pioneer. Alpine, Pioneer and Rockford Fosgate have some good stuff but you gotta spend more whereas Focal, Morel, Hertz, Audison and Dynaudio have very good speakers in all price ranges.

Would this setup work?

Dash Kit: http://bit.ly/2hyVExO

Headunit: http://bit.ly/2hIbBoH

2x JBL Speaker pair: http://bit.ly/2hz74S7

Woofer: http://bit.ly/2hyJgOT

Woofer-Box: http://amzn.to/2gNLTxl

Amp:  http://bit.ly/2hw7n3c

I don't see where the LOC or DSP would go, or why they are necessary.

Please correct me if I'm wrong (seeing as i'm new to this i'm sure theres a mistake somewhere.  With the setup I linked you, I replace the stock dash with the dash kit, and fit the headunit in there.  Then from the headunit there are some 4pin cables that kinda look like CPU eps power cables that go into the AMP (check the pic of the amp).  Then I get some wire (what gauge?) and connect the speakers to the + - terminals on that.  Then I wire the amp to 12v from the battery and ground it.  There is also a REM wire that is somewhere behind the dash that I plug into the amp.  Then, I put the subwoofer in the subwoofer box and find a spot for that.  And obviously, install the speakers in the doors.  Make sense?

[vong]

3 minutes ago, littlepigboy5 said:

Would this setup work?

Dash Kit: http://bit.ly/2hyVExO

Headunit: http://bit.ly/2hIbBoH

2x JBL Speaker pair: http://bit.ly/2hz74S7

Woofer: http://bit.ly/2hyJgOT

Woofer-Box: http://amzn.to/2gNLTxl

Amp:  http://bit.ly/2hw7n3c

I don't see where the LOC or DSP would go, or why they are necessary.

Please correct me if I'm wrong (seeing as i'm new to this i'm sure theres a mistake somewhere.  With the setup I linked you, I replace the stock dash with the dash kit, and fit the headunit in there.  Then from the headunit there are some 4pin cables that kinda look like CPU eps power cables that go into the AMP (check the pic of the amp).  Then I get some wire (what gauge?) and connect the speakers to the + - terminals on that.  Then I wire the amp to 12v from the battery and ground it.  There is also a REM wire that is somewhere behind the dash that I plug into the amp.  Then, I put the subwoofer in the subwoofer box and find a spot for that.  And obviously, install the speakers in the doors.  Make sense?

That dash kit will only work with a single din unit.

Unit is fine if you're okay with it's features. Don't forget to get a wire harness for a pioneer to G35 if they have one.

Those are coaxials which are mainly used in the rear. You should look for a component set which as a seperate tweeter and speaker.

There are 2 kinds of subwoofer boxes, ported and sealed. Ported boxes produce deeper and lower bass whereas sealed has fast and tight bass so choose which kind of bass you want.

Amp seems to power everything well. Don't forget a wiring kit though.

 

Like I said an LOC is just there so you can get an RCA output from the stock headunit. DSP gives you more tunabilty than the headunit like setting up crossovers, timing, DB. You don't need a DSP unless you want the best sound possible.

 

The 4 pin from the headunit you mentioned is to connect to the car to receive power and whatnot. You will want a harness for that to make it all plug and play unless you want to splice and solder. Get some RCA's from the headunit to the amp. 14 gaug speaker wire. The rem is just a trigger for the amp so just tap into any wire that turns on when you switch the key like a 12v socket for a cigarette lighter or something.

 

So in order:

Dash kit> harness and RCA's> headunit> amp> power and ground> speaker wire> speakers.

[littlepigboy5]

10 minutes ago, vong said:

That dash kit will only work with a single din unit.

Unit is fine if you're okay with it's features. Don't forget to get a wire harness for a pioneer to G35 if they have one.

Those are coaxials which are mainly used in the rear. You should look for a component set which as a seperate tweeter and speaker.

There are 2 kinds of subwoofer boxes, ported and sealed. Ported boxes produce deeper and lower bass whereas sealed has fast and tight bass so choose which kind of bass you want.

Amp seems to power everything well. Don't forget a wiring kit though.

 

Like I said an LOC is just there so you can get an RCA output from the stock headunit. DSP gives you more tunabilty than the headunit like setting up crossovers, timing, DB. You don't need a DSP unless you want the best sound possible.

 

The 4 pin from the headunit you mentioned is to connect to the car to receive power and whatnot. You will want a harness for that to make it all plug and play unless you want to splice and solder. Get some RCA's from the headunit to the amp. 14 gaug speaker wire. The rem is just a trigger for the amp so just tap into any wire that turns on when you switch the key like a 12v socket for a cigarette lighter or something.

 

So in order:

Dash kit> harness and RCA's> headunit> amp> power and ground> speaker wire> speakers.

what is a wire harness?  And the dash kit says it will work with double din (I presume I just remove the little aluminum bar in the middle.  What do I need RCA output from the stock headunit if I'm not going to be using the stock headunit?  Why do I need RCA at all?  Looking at the speaker inputs for the amp, I see 4pin connecters in the input section (look at pic).  I see where I could plug in RCA, but it says Low-Input, what does that mean?  I chose the sealed box intentionally.  What is the wiring kit for?

[littlepigboy5]

8 minutes ago, littlepigboy5 said:

what is a wire harness?  And the dash kit says it will work with double din (I presume I just remove the little aluminum bar in the middle.  What do I need RCA output from the stock headunit if I'm not going to be using the stock headunit?  Why do I need RCA at all?  Looking at the speaker inputs for the amp, I see 4pin connecters in the input section (look at pic).  I see where I could plug in RCA, but it says Low-Input, what does that mean?  I chose the sealed box intentionally.  What is the wiring kit for?

I just watched a couple of vids about head unit installation.  DOes the headunit connect to the speakers via rca (my headunit already has an rca preamp in back) or via the wiring harness?

[vong]

3 minutes ago, littlepigboy5 said:

what is a wire harness?  And the dash kit says it will work with double din (I presume I just remove the little aluminum bar in the middle.  What do I need RCA output from the stock headunit if I'm not going to be using the stock headunit?  Why do I need RCA at all?  Looking at the speaker inputs for the amp, I see 4pin connecters in the input section (look at pic).  I see where I could plug in RCA, but it says Low-Input, what does that mean?  I chose the sealed box intentionally.  What is the wiring kit for?

A wire harness is just a connector between the headunit and car so you don't need to splice and solder wires. If it works with a double din then good. How else are you going to connect the amp without RCA's? Oh those that's just for the knob thing that comes with the amp which I guess is for adjusting the DB level (not a volume knob!!).

 

Wiring kit is what you need to start a sound sytem. All will include a power wire, ground wire,fuse and remote wire. Some come with RCA's.

[littlepigboy5]

1 minute ago, littlepigboy5 said:

I just watched a couple of vids about head unit installation.  DOes the headunit connect to the speakers via rca (my headunit already has an rca preamp in back) or via the wiring harness?

Also the back of my head unit has a 3.5mm input in the back as well as USB in the back.  How am I supposed to plug an aux cord into the back of the headunit?

[vong]

1 minute ago, littlepigboy5 said:

Also the back of my head unit has a 3.5mm input in the back as well as USB in the back.  How am I supposed to plug an aux cord into the back of the headunit?

Just plug one in before putting the headunit in...

[littlepigboy5]

3 minutes ago, vong said:

Just plug one in before putting the headunit in...

But don't I just plug my phone into the front of the headunit?  Why is it running out the back?

[littlepigboy5]

Just now, littlepigboy5 said:

But don't I just plug my phone into the front of the headunit?  Why is it running out the back?

Oh, I see, there are no front spots for aux/usb

[littlepigboy5]

Just now, littlepigboy5 said:

Oh, I see, there are no front spots for aux/usb

So then My next question is, what are the RCA ports for in the back of the headunit?  There are only 3 pairs, so I can't imagine they are for all the speakers.  Basically, How does sound go from the headunit to the amp?

[corrado33]

8 hours ago, littlepigboy5 said:

So then My next question is, what are the RCA ports for in the back of the headunit?  There are only 3 pairs, so I can't imagine they are for all the speakers.  Basically, How does sound go from the headunit to the amp?

3 Pairs.

 

1 pair for front speakers

1 pair for rear speakers

1 pair for sub

 

Gotta remember that each pair represents 2 signals, left and right. The sub is mono, so it has the same signal on both sides (or just doesn't use one.) 

 

RCA is the prefered way to connect your head unit to your amp. Yes, you can do it high level (via the speaker wires coming off of the unit) but it's better to use RCAs. 

 

However, you have to be careful, one of those pairs may be aux in, instead of an out. Usually they're labeled.