Help WIth RGB LED Control Box

[TheNuzziNuzz]

I have around 25ft of RGB Led strips around my setup.  I'm using somewhere around 500 LED's. The entire thing requires 12 Volts. One LED strip wasn't long enough to go the entire distance I wanted so I got a second one. Unfortunately, the power supply that came with them is rated for 5 amps, enough to only power one of the strips, which are each 3.75 amps. I have the strips is series.

 

I wan't to create a box with the propper power supply, an on/off sitch, and three dimmer swiches, each to control the R, G, And B, channels so I can set my own colors.

 

I can sodder, I have a basic undeerstanding of electricty, but I don't really know where to begin. However, I will create a build log of you guys wan't.

[Clanscorpia]

Amps dont add up you know, it should still work

[TheNuzziNuzz]

1 minute ago, Clanscorpia said:

Amps dont add up you know, it should still work

WHat do you mean? Two strips, 3.75 amps each. THats 7 total.

[Clanscorpia]

Just now, TheNuzziNuzz said:

WHat do you mean? Two strips, 3.75 amps each. THats 7 total.

Amps is current, which means the strip requires 3.75 amps of current to power stuff, current does not stack.

[TheNuzziNuzz]

1 minute ago, Clanscorpia said:

Amps is current, which means the strip requires 3.75 amps of current to power stuff, current does not stack.

Does the voltage stack?

[Clanscorpia]

4 minutes ago, TheNuzziNuzz said:

Does the voltage stack?

No, stuff doesnt stack if its all the same

[W-L]

8 minutes ago, TheNuzziNuzz said:

Does the voltage stack?

 

3 minutes ago, Clanscorpia said:

No, stuff doesnt stack if its all the same

If you are adding up the two strips the current will stack up to approx 7amps. As for the controller if they are the standard SMD5050 type LED's you can easily get a controller unit for higher amperages for <$10.

[Clanscorpia]

Just now, W-L said:

 

If you are adding up the two strips the current will stack up to approx 7amps. As for the controller if they are the standard SMD5050 type LED's you can easily get a controller unit for higher amperages for <$10.

Really? I thought it didnt because if the strips are the exact same shouldnt they just connect and work properly?

[TheNuzziNuzz]

17 minutes ago, Clanscorpia said:

Really? I thought it didnt because if the strips are the exact same shouldnt they just connect and work properly?

The strips are in series together.

[TheNuzziNuzz]

I'm not looking for a Power Supply solution, I am looking for help on the actual controller box I am looking to build myself. For example, What dimmer switches di I need? Is this the best way to do it? Has anyone done something similar? Is this a good idea? I was thinking I could have two outputs on the box in parallel, so I could connect the two strips separately and still have plenty of power. I would put the PSU and all the electronic components inside the box.

 

I was also asking if anyone might be interested in seeing a log or tutorial on doing this, so you could repeat it for yourself.

[TheNuzziNuzz]

Would this PSU work? https://www.hitlights.com/indoor-led-power-adapters

What wattage should I select?

 

How could I create the two outputs in parallel, how do I connect said dimmer switches?

 

These are the strips I have, I got two: https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Dimmable-Colored-Decoration-Weatherproof/dp/B006K0JYD8/ref=sr_1_1?srs=5608252011&ie=UTF8&qid=1479299526&sr=8-1&keywords=LED+Strip

 

I swore to never buy these again, I will now order from Hitlights, their lights are better quality and more compatable.

[W-L]

14 minutes ago, TheNuzziNuzz said:

I'm not looking for a Power Supply solution, I am looking for help on the actual controller box I am looking to build myself. For example, What dimmer switches di I need? Is this the best way to do it? Has anyone done something similar? Is this a good idea? I was thinking I could have two outputs on the box in parallel, so I could connect the two strips separately and still have plenty of power. I would put the PSU and all the electronic components inside the box.

 

I was also asking if anyone might be interested in seeing a log or tutorial on doing this, so you could repeat it for yourself.

Here a controller box like this is what you would require with the higher amperage. As for the power brick you will want atleast 84W as the strips are 12V running at 7amps approx. it woulld be a good idea to go a little oversized and get the 96W unit I see listed in that link there. 

https://www.amazon.com/12V-24V-44Key-Remote-Controller-Strip/dp/B00HSXTIKK

[TheNuzziNuzz]

1 minute ago, W-L said:

Here a controller box like this is what you would require with the higher amperage. As for the power brick you will want atleast 84W as the strips are 12V running at 7amps approx. it woulld be a good idea to go a little oversized and get the 96W unit I see listed in that link there. 

https://www.amazon.com/12V-24V-44Key-Remote-Controller-Strip/dp/B00HSXTIKK

 

I actually just found this thing called "Mi-Light". Basically the same thing as that, just you control it over wifi. I may look into that too, but the point is to have the ability to control the RGB with actually faders. For Education, Functionality, and a wider variety of color selection.

 

I really don't like cable manging infrared devices like that one because they need to be positioned in vew of the remote.

[W-L]

4 minutes ago, TheNuzziNuzz said:

I actually just found this thing called "Mi-Light". Basically the same thing as that, just you control it over wifi. I may look into that too, but the point is to have the ability to control the RGB with actually faders. For Education, Functionality, and a wider variety of color selection.

 

I really don't like cable manging infrared devices like that one because they need to be positioned in vew of the remote.

Yeah they have quite a few versions now from the RF to the wifi version of that is more handy. They should still all have the basic functions like fade, color change/selection and the lot built into them. If you have a really long continuous run though it may not be a bad idea to look into just using the lower amperage controller at the beginning but a booster with power input mid way for the second second of strip to ensure it doesn't cause the end of the strip to grow dimmer which can be a problem at times. 

[Hackentosher]

55 minutes ago, Clanscorpia said:

Really? I thought it didnt because if the strips are the exact same shouldnt they just connect and work properly?

If you have a 3.75a load, then add another 3.75a load, the load is going to pull 7.5a from the supply. 

[JokerProduction]

Your making this much more complicated than it needs to be.

 

I would suggest just buying a led controller as opposed to making your own.  From read these post its pretty obvious you don't really understand series/parallel circuits and power calculations.

 

You are correct that doubling the amount of leds will require double the power.(and therefore since voltage is a constant in this case amperage also doubles as you stated in your first post)

 

to figure out power you have to use the formula P=I*E

 

in this case 12v * 7A = 96W

 

BUT its also a good idea and common practice that you don't run continuous loads over 80% of the rated power.

 

so now you take that 96W and multiply it by 1.2 to get the size of power supply you should purchase. which works out to 115.2W.  Now you wont find a 115.2W power supply so you should choose the next HIGHER available standard size which would be 120w.

 

Mi-lights is just a brand name youll find that exact same product under dozens of other names/manufactures.

That being said I would defiantly skip the IR type controllers there are better options out there for the same price.

 

I'm using this controller and power supply in my setup and have no complaints.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-pcs-LED-Touch-Round-RGB-Controller-DC12V-DC24V-18A-7-Keys-RF-Remote-controller/32398836915.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.I96gIt

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-pcs-LED-Touch-Round-RGB-Controller-DC12V-DC24V-18A-7-Keys-RF-Remote-controller/32398836915.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.I96gIt

 

or if you want to control each strip seperately you could go with a kit like this.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mi-light-Wireless-2-4G-4-Zone-RGBW-Touchtone-remote-control-for-led-strip-RF-Wifi/32737153728.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.93.4zaorD&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_116_10065_117_10068_114_115_113_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10054_10059_10078_10079_10073_10096_10070_423_10052_10050_424_10051,searchweb201603_8&btsid=4a1704b8-7888-472a-a241-6ee27f25089a

 

If you go with the 2nd option you could use two smaller power supplies or get a splitter/adapter for the bigger power supply i linked above.

 

 

[TheNuzziNuzz]

11 minutes ago, JokerProduction said:

Your making this much more complicated than it needs to be.

 

I would suggest just buying a led controller as opposed to making your own.  From read these post its pretty obvious you don't really understand series/parallel circuits and power calculations.

 

You are correct that doubling the amount of leds will require double the power.(and therefore since voltage is a constant in this case amperage also doubles as you stated in your first post)

 

to figure out power you have to use the formula P=I*E

 

in this case 12v * 7A = 96W

 

BUT its also a good idea and common practice that you don't run continuous loads over 80% of the rated power.

 

so now you take that 96W and multiply it by 1.2 to get the size of power supply you should purchase. which works out to 115.2W.  Now you wont find a 115.2W power supply so you should choose the next HIGHER available standard size which would be 120w.

 

Mi-lights is just a brand name youll find that exact same product under dozens of other names/manufactures.

That being said I would defiantly skip the IR type controllers there are better options out there for the same price.

 

I'm using this controller and power supply in my setup and have no complaints.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-pcs-LED-Touch-Round-RGB-Controller-DC12V-DC24V-18A-7-Keys-RF-Remote-controller/32398836915.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.I96gIt

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-pcs-LED-Touch-Round-RGB-Controller-DC12V-DC24V-18A-7-Keys-RF-Remote-controller/32398836915.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.I96gIt

 

or if you want to control each strip seperately you could go with a kit like this.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mi-light-Wireless-2-4G-4-Zone-RGBW-Touchtone-remote-control-for-led-strip-RF-Wifi/32737153728.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.93.4zaorD&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_116_10065_117_10068_114_115_113_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10054_10059_10078_10079_10073_10096_10070_423_10052_10050_424_10051,searchweb201603_8&btsid=4a1704b8-7888-472a-a241-6ee27f25089a

 

If you go with the 2nd option you could use two smaller power supplies or get a splitter/adapter for the bigger power supply i linked above.

 

 

10

Thank you for the clarification. I actually have the second strip about 2/3 its original size. I don't remember the exact amount of LED's.

 

I think I will run LED wire from the other end, and split both strips in the middle. So I will have the load of both strips distributed over two wires. I can then either use them as separate zones, or use a splitter of some sort to connect them in parallel.

 

I will look into Mi-Light, this could be the answer to all my problems.