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I NEED a Good Cable Splitter

VoyexTech

Hi guys I currently have a cable splitter running both my modem and TV bit whenever I have the TV on the modem will sometimes cut out. I need a better cable splitter, any suggestions? (BTW my Internet speeds are 60mbps download and 4mbps upload and I am splitting into 2 lines)

I have an Anet A8 as my project printer and a i3 MK3 for when I want things to work. 

 

I extrude my own filament and haven't saved a penny yet.

 

 

My PC:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel i7 8700k

Motherboard: MSI Z370-A Pro

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V (2x8GB) DDR4-3200

GPU: GTX 1070 Founders Edition (OC'd)

Storage: 2x 2TB Seagate 5400RPM, 128GB ADATA SSD

Power Supply: EVGA Supernova 750w  B2

Cooling: Noctua NH-D15. 3 Intake Fans, 2 Outtake

Case: Fractal Design Define R6

 

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Ugh. I've been trying to explain this all but it's getting way too complicated and tldr. Would you trust me if I told you your best bet would be to contact your ISP? It all depends on your hardware, where you live, your plan with your ISP and so on.

It's related to stuff about regional frequencies for the TV, expected attenuation for the modem, the standards the modem complies with, whether or not your ISP employs the 65MHz-85MHz extended range or not and so on and so forth. 

What works for me, might not work for you at all. I had this one back when I lived in Turku, Finland and it worked fine for both my EuroDOCSIS 3.0 modem and my DVB-C DTV. 

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I've never seen a "good" or "bad" splitter that comes from a name brand like Toner or Blonder Tongue or the dozens of other cable equipment manufacturers. All two port splitters will have the same amount of loss between the input and the outputs, normally 3.5dB - if you understand dB you'll know that means you are getting half the signal minus some loss out of each output, which makes perfect sense. And this drop in signal level is irregardless of whether there is anything plugged into one of the ports, which is why you should use the smallest splitter possible for each split, not say an 8 port splitter when you need four outputs.

 

So since a splitter cuts your signal in half, you need to have good enough signal strength coming into the splitter for it to still feed your modem. You need a proper meter and some training to verify this, which is one reason to call your ISP for a technician to inspect.

 

The fact that your TV adversely affects your modem does sound suspicious. Without further testing, I would even suggest that your TV has a faulty tuner that is introducing noise into the line. Most splitters have circuitry in them that filters signals from outputs from reaching other outputs or back up to the input but it isn't perfect.

 

Overall I'd say call your ISP about it.

Looking to buy GTX690, other multi-GPU cards, or single-slot graphics cards: 

 

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8 hours ago, Naeaes said:

Ugh. I've been trying to explain this all but it's getting way too complicated and tldr. Would you trust me if I told you your best bet would be to contact your ISP? It all depends on your hardware, where you live, your plan with your ISP and so on.

It's related to stuff about regional frequencies for the TV, expected attenuation for the modem, the standards the modem complies with, whether or not your ISP employs the 65MHz-85MHz extended range or not and so on and so forth. 

What works for me, might not work for you at all. I had this one back when I lived in Turku, Finland and it worked fine for both my EuroDOCSIS 3.0 modem and my DVB-C DTV. 

My isp  (Charter) forces me to use a specific modem. They don't out fight say it but they always have "issues" seeing up any modem but theirs.

I have an Anet A8 as my project printer and a i3 MK3 for when I want things to work. 

 

I extrude my own filament and haven't saved a penny yet.

 

 

My PC:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel i7 8700k

Motherboard: MSI Z370-A Pro

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V (2x8GB) DDR4-3200

GPU: GTX 1070 Founders Edition (OC'd)

Storage: 2x 2TB Seagate 5400RPM, 128GB ADATA SSD

Power Supply: EVGA Supernova 750w  B2

Cooling: Noctua NH-D15. 3 Intake Fans, 2 Outtake

Case: Fractal Design Define R6

 

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22 hours ago, VoyexTech said:

My isp  (Charter) forces me to use a specific modem. They don't out fight say it but they always have "issues" seeing up any modem but theirs.

I have Charter as well, and around here it is required that you have a direct line to their telco box for your modem. Until you do, their troubleshooting will always end in telling you to get rid of the splitter.

 

In all fairness, the splitter probably IS the problem and you should have a direct line to the modem. I highly recommend to either run a direct line to their telco box, or move the modem to a spot you can easily get a direct line. Then call Charter and they can come out and hook it into the telco box, you can also do it yourself but they might complain as you have to open the "Technician only" cover in the box. Inside of that box will be a quality splitter that Charter trusts to work.

 

The box will look similar to this, and be mounted on an exterior wall near where your power would come in.

31zMWlf7ZDL._AC_UL320_SR214,320_.jpg

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55 minutes ago, Scheer said:

I have Charter as well, and around here it is required that you have a direct line to their telco box for your modem. Until you do, their troubleshooting will always end in telling you to get rid of the splitter.

 

In all fairness, the splitter probably IS the problem and you should have a direct line to the modem. I highly recommend to either run a direct line to their telco box, or move the modem to a spot you can easily get a direct line. Then call Charter and they can come out and hook it into the telco box, you can also do it yourself but they might complain as you have to open the "Technician only" cover in the box. Inside of that box will be a quality splitter that Charter trusts to work.

 

The box will look similar to this, and be mounted on an exterior wall near where your power would come in.

31zMWlf7ZDL._AC_UL320_SR214,320_.jpg

They won't complain because i made them not lock the technician only cover 

I have an Anet A8 as my project printer and a i3 MK3 for when I want things to work. 

 

I extrude my own filament and haven't saved a penny yet.

 

 

My PC:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel i7 8700k

Motherboard: MSI Z370-A Pro

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V (2x8GB) DDR4-3200

GPU: GTX 1070 Founders Edition (OC'd)

Storage: 2x 2TB Seagate 5400RPM, 128GB ADATA SSD

Power Supply: EVGA Supernova 750w  B2

Cooling: Noctua NH-D15. 3 Intake Fans, 2 Outtake

Case: Fractal Design Define R6

 

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On 3/31/2016 at 0:28 AM, VoyexTech said:

Hi guys I currently have a cable splitter running both my modem and TV bit whenever I have the TV on the modem will sometimes cut out. I need a better cable splitter, any suggestions? (BTW my Internet speeds are 60mbps download and 4mbps upload and I am splitting into 2 lines)

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Coaxial-Splitter-Bidirectional-Communications/dp/B00NE0G23W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 

This is what I use. This is what your cable company should be using. Some of the best in the business. If your having issues like that, it could be a signal issue. First of all You need to see if you have the box mentioned above by @Scheer. As some ISP's might have a spiltter in their. I know when Comcast installed our internet they put the two way splitter in that outside box and ran 2 lines out of that. Now our two way is inside the house. 

 

Your set up should be Cable from the pole to a 2 way splitter and one side does internet and the other can be put in to a TV or another splitter if you have multiple TV's. You might have signal issues. If thats the case then replacing the splitter does jack shit. If its signal issues then your ISP has to fix it. 

 

I just want to sit back and watch the world burn. 

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18 hours ago, Donut417 said:

You might have signal issues. If thats the case then replacing the splitter does jack shit. If its signal issues then your ISP has to fix it. 

Good point.

 

The last two Charter modems I've had were setup with 192.168.100.1 as the IP. Although not needed on mine, you can log in with username: chtruser and password: charter

 

For reference here are my levels, which is a direct connection since I do not have TV.

 

Capture.PNG.c3c5fdcb9fd5cd107f47a9274369

 

 

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