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"Bookshelf" speakers with punch + an amp for them

flibberdipper

So no matter where I ask the question for a cheap amp for my current speakers, the answer is always the same: Cough up some dough or you're SOL.

 

 

Which leads me to my new question: What are some cheap "bookshelf" speakers (like speakers that are 12" tall and 6" wide, so on and so forth) that have good punch (I am all about that bass, trust me), as well as an amp to power them both? Audio will be coming from my PC. I already have 50 feet bundles of wire to place them wherever (from my current speakers). If the price could stay under $150USD max, that would be wonderful. I don't really care what the speakers look like (although I do look the natural wood look of my NS-A600's), and they don't really have to have speaker guards/mesh since they'll be on my desk.

 

TL;DR: Read the damned post.

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So no matter where I ask the question for a cheap amp for my current speakers, the answer is always the same: Cough up some dough or you're SOL.

 

 

Which leads me to my new question: What are some cheap "bookshelf" speakers (like speakers that are 12" tall and 6" wide, so on and so forth) that have good punch (I am all about that bass, trust me), as well as an amp to power them both? Audio will be coming from my PC. I already have 50 feet bundles of wire to place them wherever (from my current speakers). If the price could stay under $150USD max, that would be wonderful. I don't really care what the speakers look like (although I do look the natural wood look of my NS-A600's), and they don't really have to have speaker guards/mesh since they'll be on my desk.

 

TL;DR: Read the damned post.

 

@Enderman - Speaker Expert

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Check /r/averagejoeaudiophile

Something tells me /r/budgetaudiophile might be better. Now, what the fuck was my reddit info...

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There's nothing wrong with the Lepai amp, youay want to upgrade the power supply on it though. As for cheap bookshelf speakers with bass, Micca MB42x's are probably what you are looking for. You can add a dedicated subwoofer later for some more punch.

Internets Machine: Intel 4690k w/ Be Quiet! Pure Rock 4.7Ghz. MSI Krait z97. 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Ram. MSI GTX 970 SLI 1520mhz. 500GB Samsung EVO 840  & 3TB WD Blue Drive. Rosewill 1000w Modular PSU. Corsair Air 540

My Beats Yo: Desktop:SMSL SA-160 Amp, KEF Q100 w/ Dayton 100w Sub Theater: Micca MB42X-C x3, MB42X x2, COVO-S x2 w/Dayton 120w Sub Headphones:  HIFiMan HE-400i, PSB M4U2, Philips Fidelio X2, Modded Fostex T50RP, ATH-M50, NVX XPT100, Phillips SHP9500, Pioneer SE-A1000, Hyper X Cloud 1&2, CHC Silverado, Superlux 668B

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There's nothing wrong with the Lepai amp, youay want to upgrade the power supply on it though. As for cheap bookshelf speakers with bass, Micca MB42x's are probably what you are looking for. You can add a dedicated subwoofer later for some more punch.

I don't think I would want to ever think about running two speakers rated at 140w/8ohm on an amp that's rated for like 20 watts. :P

 

Anyways, those ones are expensive, what about the non-x version? What makes the x version better than non-x?

 

And finally, what sub would you recommend? Maybe like... $70 for that at the most, and it NEEDS an adjustable knob to turn its effect up or down (this stuff would be at my grandma's, so you can see why I need that feature).

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Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

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Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

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Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

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I recommend getting an amp used on craigslist.

The world is full of stupid people selling 300$ amps for 50$, with speakers

n0ah1897, on 05 Mar 2014 - 2:08 PM, said:  "Computers are like girls. It's whats in the inside that matters.  I don't know about you, but I like my girls like I like my cases. Just as beautiful on the inside as the outside."

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I don't think I would want to ever think about running two speakers rated at 140w/8ohm on an amp that's rated for like 20 watts. :P

 

Nothing wrong with that. The speaker can (theoretically) handle 140W, and the amp puts out 20W. Works perfectly fine.

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I don't think I would want to ever think about running two speakers rated at 140w/8ohm on an amp that's rated for like 20 watts. :P

 

Anyways, those ones are expensive, what about the non-x version? What makes the x version better than non-x?

 

And finally, what sub would you recommend? Maybe like... $70 for that at the most, and it NEEDS an adjustable knob to turn its effect up or down (this stuff would be at my grandma's, so you can see why I need that feature).

 

 

There's nothing wrong with that, as @Lutkeveld said

 

 

My Micca MB42's off my Lepai amp get STUPID loud.  

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There's nothing wrong with that, as @Lutkeveld said

 

 

My Micca MB42's off my Lepai amp get STUPID loud.  

What the difference between the MB42's and the MB42X's? I couldn't find anything...

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Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

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I don't think I would want to ever think about running two speakers rated at 140w/8ohm on an amp that's rated for like 20 watts. :P

 

Anyways, those ones are expensive, what about the non-x version? What makes the x version better than non-x?

 

And finally, what sub would you recommend? Maybe like... $70 for that at the most, and it NEEDS an adjustable knob to turn its effect up or down (this stuff would be at my grandma's, so you can see why I need that feature).

The x means that it has a crossover, which basically means that it is better at spreading out the frequencies to the proper area (tweeter, speaker, and sub). The cheapest sub I could recommend is $80 which it is the Dayton 80w sub

Internets Machine: Intel 4690k w/ Be Quiet! Pure Rock 4.7Ghz. MSI Krait z97. 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Ram. MSI GTX 970 SLI 1520mhz. 500GB Samsung EVO 840  & 3TB WD Blue Drive. Rosewill 1000w Modular PSU. Corsair Air 540

My Beats Yo: Desktop:SMSL SA-160 Amp, KEF Q100 w/ Dayton 100w Sub Theater: Micca MB42X-C x3, MB42X x2, COVO-S x2 w/Dayton 120w Sub Headphones:  HIFiMan HE-400i, PSB M4U2, Philips Fidelio X2, Modded Fostex T50RP, ATH-M50, NVX XPT100, Phillips SHP9500, Pioneer SE-A1000, Hyper X Cloud 1&2, CHC Silverado, Superlux 668B

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What the difference between the MB42's and the MB42X's? I couldn't find anything...

 

This guy does a good job of explaining stuff, and also has a very good review of the mb42's and X's I think too.

 

Stuff:  i7 7700k @ (dat nibba succ) | ASRock Z170M OC Formula | G.Skill TridentZ 3600 c16 | EKWB 1080 @ 2100 mhz  |  Acer X34 Predator | R4 | EVGA 1000 P2 | 1080mm Radiator Custom Loop | HD800 + Audio-GD NFB-11 | 850 Evo 1TB | 840 Pro 256GB | 3TB WD Blue | 2TB Barracuda

Hwbot: http://hwbot.org/user/lays/ 

FireStrike 980 ti @ 1800 Mhz http://hwbot.org/submission/3183338 http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/11574089

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This guy does a good job of explaining stuff, and also has a very good review of the mb42's and X's I think too.

 

I am glad I am not the only LTT member that likes Zeos.

Internets Machine: Intel 4690k w/ Be Quiet! Pure Rock 4.7Ghz. MSI Krait z97. 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Ram. MSI GTX 970 SLI 1520mhz. 500GB Samsung EVO 840  & 3TB WD Blue Drive. Rosewill 1000w Modular PSU. Corsair Air 540

My Beats Yo: Desktop:SMSL SA-160 Amp, KEF Q100 w/ Dayton 100w Sub Theater: Micca MB42X-C x3, MB42X x2, COVO-S x2 w/Dayton 120w Sub Headphones:  HIFiMan HE-400i, PSB M4U2, Philips Fidelio X2, Modded Fostex T50RP, ATH-M50, NVX XPT100, Phillips SHP9500, Pioneer SE-A1000, Hyper X Cloud 1&2, CHC Silverado, Superlux 668B

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craigslist is the best place to get good speakers for your money

i dont know which bookshelf speakers are best since I dont use those, but I can tell you that there are tons of people on craigslist selling great quality bookshelf speakers and amps for extremely cheap

 

also its not a complex electronic device like a GPU, so buying it used (if its in good condition and works) is no different from buying it new

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also its not a complex electronic device like a GPU, so buying it used (if its in good condition and works) is no different from buying it new

 

Besides rotten surrounds and dried up electrolytics. But generally yeah; old stuff is still good.

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Besides rotten surrounds and dried up electrolytics. But generally yeah; old stuff is still good.

thats what i meant by good condition :)

newer speakers that use rubber or synthetic surrounds are much less likely to fall apart over time like the old foam surrounds used to

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

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Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

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