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Any experienced Electricians out there?

Silentsoul

So basically i just build a new desk so i could move my "work" and "play" computers into the same space. Will include a pic. So i have the pc on the left which is in my signature. Then pc on the right which is a 8350, gtx 780 dcuII and a 650 watt psu. I am running them on independent surges under the desk but if one pc is already on and i turn the other one on the lamp in the room dims and comes back up. I'm still trying to determine exactly how many outlets are on this same breaker but it occurs when nothing else in the room is on except the computers and the lamp. I realize when you first power up it's a higher power surge then general use and even maybe full load but to dim the lights is a little concerning. I don't have the tools to test the amps at the wall or anything to see what exactly is going on. 

 

Ideas?

 

20141007_201047.jpg

 

20141007_201003.jpg

i7 10700k @ 5.1Ghz, 1.37v | Asus Z490-E Strix | Asus Rtx 2080ti Strix | 16Gb Trident Z Rgb @ 3600MHz | Samsung 970 Pro | EVGA Supernova G2 850w  | Corsair 500D | Celcius s36 /w ML Pro's

 

i7 8700k @ 4.8GHz, 1.31v | Asus Z370-A Prime | Asus Gtx 1080ti Strix | 16Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum | Samsung 850 Evo | Corsair TX 650W  | Corsair 750D | Corsair H100i v2 /w SP-120's

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Lol that's neat. I have no useful info for you OP, but that's a nice setup. 

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Lol that's neat. I have no useful info for you OP, but that's a nice setup. 

 

Lol thanks

i7 10700k @ 5.1Ghz, 1.37v | Asus Z490-E Strix | Asus Rtx 2080ti Strix | 16Gb Trident Z Rgb @ 3600MHz | Samsung 970 Pro | EVGA Supernova G2 850w  | Corsair 500D | Celcius s36 /w ML Pro's

 

i7 8700k @ 4.8GHz, 1.31v | Asus Z370-A Prime | Asus Gtx 1080ti Strix | 16Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum | Samsung 850 Evo | Corsair TX 650W  | Corsair 750D | Corsair H100i v2 /w SP-120's

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To be completely honest, I am confused as to why you have 2 computers.

 

No info here either.

Someone told Luke and Linus at CES 2017 to "Unban the legend known as Jerakl" and that's about all I've got going for me. (It didn't work)

 

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To be completely honest, I am confused as to why you have 2 computers.

 

No info here either.

 

Why not is the question  :rolleyes:, I actually have 3.. but didn't want a 15ft desk lol.

i7 10700k @ 5.1Ghz, 1.37v | Asus Z490-E Strix | Asus Rtx 2080ti Strix | 16Gb Trident Z Rgb @ 3600MHz | Samsung 970 Pro | EVGA Supernova G2 850w  | Corsair 500D | Celcius s36 /w ML Pro's

 

i7 8700k @ 4.8GHz, 1.31v | Asus Z370-A Prime | Asus Gtx 1080ti Strix | 16Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum | Samsung 850 Evo | Corsair TX 650W  | Corsair 750D | Corsair H100i v2 /w SP-120's

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Why not is the question  :rolleyes:, I actually have 3.. but didn't want a 15ft desk lol.

Why......

 

Do you use all 3 of them?

 

I can't comprehend why you would need 3 separate computers....

Let alone 3 computers that you use...

Someone told Luke and Linus at CES 2017 to "Unban the legend known as Jerakl" and that's about all I've got going for me. (It didn't work)

 

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So basically i just build a new desk so i could move my "work" and "play" computers into the same space. Will include a pic. So i have the pc on the left which is in my signature. Then pc on the right which is a 8350, gtx 780 dcuII and a 650 watt psu. I am running them on independent surges under the desk but if one pc is already on and i turn the other one on the lamp in the room dims and comes back up. I'm still trying to determine exactly how many outlets are on this same breaker but it occurs when nothing else in the room is on except the computers and the lamp. I realize when you first power up it's a higher power surge then general use and even maybe full load but to dim the lights is a little concerning. I don't have the tools to test the amps at the wall or anything to see what exactly is going on. 

 

Ideas?

 

20141007_201047.jpg

 

20141007_201003.jpg

If the breakers not going off 90% of the time your fine its completely normal to have lights dim when there a new high drawling devise on the circuit.like when you turn the vacuum cleaner on the same thing happens. if it bothers you allot you can get a ups and hook your pc to that (you should have one either way) that will stop the high draw from hitting the cicete and if you want to know how much the system is drawing you can get a watt meter. ill post links to where you can get both of those

 

UPS:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=B000FBK3QK&link_code=as3&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=VR24DH5OKD7FDLG5

 

For the ups i got you a 1500w to be safe for your setup

 

Watt Meter:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E945SJG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=B00E945SJG&link_code=as3&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=CVXMKEZLPIY7FJMJ

I  have GameServer`s And VOIP servers the only price is that you have fun on them. 

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Unplug your stuff. Plug something like a lamp or alarm clock in each plug in the room and opposing walls. Turn the breaker switch off. This is to make sure you don't have a split room or something, especially in old houses. I have a really weird layout myself. I see by looking at the pick that that door's handle indicates that it might go to a garage or something on the exterior. That line might also share plugs with your garage.

Add up everything you normally plug in to that switch. I think the limit is usually something like 1920w but check your breaker and low ball it, leave some space for error.

If you can't see what guage of wire you have from the breaker, pull a plug out. It's usually 12 gauge, but may vary depending on the age of the home. Mine is 10 guage for example. If it's 12 gauge, the limit is 1920 watts for 120v. Again low ball it. 14 gauge, also common, is a 1440 watt limit.

If you can see anything that is obviously breaking this limit, then distribute the load. If not, and you can't figure out, consult an electrician. Me personally, my landlord is actually pretty damn good at it so I can go to him first. Make sure to count light bulbs if they are incandescent.

There's something I'm missing about drawing a large load from a plug and the plug down the line not working, but I forget. I had the same issue and was only pulling about 700watts. But in my case I was getting nothing from plugs down the line

Lights flicking is ok, and is normal for a lot of appliances. But double check everything, because if it flickers at startup, what would it do with both PCs under load?

muh specs 

Gaming and HTPC (reparations)- ASUS 1080, MSI X99A SLI Plus, 5820k- 4.5GHz @ 1.25v, asetek based 360mm AIO, RM 1000x, 16GB memory, 750D with front USB 2.0 replaced with 3.0  ports, 2 250GB 850 EVOs in Raid 0 (why not, only has games on it), some hard drives

Screens- Acer preditor XB241H (1080p, 144Hz Gsync), LG 1080p ultrawide, (all mounted) directly wired to TV in other room

Stuff- k70 with reds, steel series rival, g13, full desk covering mouse mat

All parts black

Workstation(desk)- 3770k, 970 reference, 16GB of some crucial memory, a motherboard of some kind I don't remember, Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI, CM Storm Trooper (It's got a handle, can you handle that?), 240mm Asetek based AIO, Crucial M550 256GB (upgrade soon), some hard drives, disc drives, and hot swap bays

Screens- 3  ASUS VN248H-P IPS 1080p screens mounted on a stand, some old tv on the wall above it. 

Stuff- Epicgear defiant (solderless swappable switches), g600, moutned mic and other stuff. 

Laptop docking area- 2 1440p korean monitors mounted, one AHVA matte, one samsung PLS gloss (very annoying, yes). Trashy Razer blackwidow chroma...I mean like the J key doesn't click anymore. I got a model M i use on it to, but its time for a new keyboard. Some edgy Utechsmart mouse similar to g600. Hooked to laptop dock for both of my dell precision laptops. (not only docking area)

Shelf- i7-2600 non-k (has vt-d), 380t, some ASUS sandy itx board, intel quad nic. Currently hosts shared files, setting up as pfsense box in VM. Also acts as spare gaming PC with a 580 or whatever someone brings. Hooked into laptop dock area via usb switch

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Why......

 

Do you use all 3 of them?

 

I can't comprehend why you would need 3 separate computers....

Let alone 3 computers that you use...

 

I use the 2 on my desk for different things but also if me and the wife want to play a game together or something 2 computers is required. The 3rd is just an fx6300 with a gtx 660 that got handed down to my son a long time ago for him to play and do school work.

 

 

If the breakers not going off 90% of the time your fine its completely normal to have lights dim when there a new high drawling devise on the circuit.like when you turn the vacuum cleaner on the same thing happens. if it bothers you allot you can get a ups and hook your pc to that (you should have one either way) that will stop the high draw from hitting the cicete and if you want to know how much the system is drawing you can get a watt meter. ill post links to where you can get both of those

 

UPS:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=B000FBK3QK&link_code=as3&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=VR24DH5OKD7FDLG5

 

For the ups i got you a 1500w to be safe for your setup

 

Watt Meter:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E945SJG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=B00E945SJG&link_code=as3&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=CVXMKEZLPIY7FJMJ

 

I was also leaning towards a UPS, as you said "which i should have anyway". I just didn't think 2 computers should pull enough amps to cause issues if the first place.

 

Thank you for the links.

 

 

Unplug your stuff. Plug something like a lamp or alarm clock in each plug in the room and opposing walls. Turn the breaker switch off. This is to make sure you don't have a split room or something, especially in old houses. I have a really weird layout myself. I see by looking at the pick that that door's handle indicates that it might go to a garage or something in the exterior. That line might also share plugs with your garage.

Add up everything you normally plug in to that switch. I think the limit is usually something like 1920w but check your breaker and low ball it.

If you can't see what guage of wire you have from the breaker, pull a plug out. It's usually 12 gauge, but may vary depending on the age of the home. Mine is 10 guage for example. If it's 12 gauge, the limit is 1920 watts for 120v. Again low ball it. 14 gauge, also common, is a 1440 watt limit.

If you can see anything that is obviously breaking this limit, then distribute the load. If not, and you can't figure out, consult an electrician. Me personally, my landlord is actually pretty damn good at it so I can go to him first. Make sure to count light bulbs if they are incandescent.

There's something I'm missing about drawing a large load from a plug and the plug down the line not working, but I forget. I had the same issue and was only pulling about 700watts. But in my case I was getting nothing from plugs down the line

Lights flicking is ok, and is normal for a lot of appliances. But double check everything, because if it flickers at startup, what would it do with both PCs under load?

 

I was actually going to do that tomorrow. It's pretty late now. If i turn everything possible on and then turn the computers on i still don't pop the breaker it's just a little concerning.

i7 10700k @ 5.1Ghz, 1.37v | Asus Z490-E Strix | Asus Rtx 2080ti Strix | 16Gb Trident Z Rgb @ 3600MHz | Samsung 970 Pro | EVGA Supernova G2 850w  | Corsair 500D | Celcius s36 /w ML Pro's

 

i7 8700k @ 4.8GHz, 1.31v | Asus Z370-A Prime | Asus Gtx 1080ti Strix | 16Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum | Samsung 850 Evo | Corsair TX 650W  | Corsair 750D | Corsair H100i v2 /w SP-120's

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Unplug your stuff. Plug something like a lamp or alarm clock in each plug in the room and opposing walls. Turn the breaker switch off. This is to make sure you don't have a split room or something, especially in old houses. I have a really weird layout myself. I see by looking at the pick that that door's handle indicates that it might go to a garage or something on the exterior. That line might also share plugs with your garage.

Add up everything you normally plug in to that switch. I think the limit is usually something like 1920w but check your breaker and low ball it, leave some space for error.

If you can't see what guage of wire you have from the breaker, pull a plug out. It's usually 12 gauge, but may vary depending on the age of the home. Mine is 10 guage for example. If it's 12 gauge, the limit is 1920 watts for 120v. Again low ball it. 14 gauge, also common, is a 1440 watt limit.

If you can see anything that is obviously breaking this limit, then distribute the load. If not, and you can't figure out, consult an electrician. Me personally, my landlord is actually pretty damn good at it so I can go to him first. Make sure to count light bulbs if they are incandescent.

There's something I'm missing about drawing a large load from a plug and the plug down the line not working, but I forget. I had the same issue and was only pulling about 700watts. But in my case I was getting nothing from plugs down the line

Lights flicking is ok, and is normal for a lot of appliances. But double check everything, because if it flickers at startup, what would it do with both PCs under load?

This is really good advice to.its definly not a bad idea to find all the things on that breaker.

I  have GameServer`s And VOIP servers the only price is that you have fun on them. 

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I use the 2 on my desk for different things but also if me and the wife want to play a game together or something 2 computers is required. The 3rd is just an fx6300 with a gtx 660 that got handed down to my son a long time ago for him to play and do school work.

 

 

 

I was also leaning towards a UPS, as you said "which i should have anyway". I just didn't think 2 computers should pull enough amps to cause issues if the first place.

 

Thank you for the links.

 

 

 

I was actually going to do that tomorrow. It's pretty late now. If i turn everything possible on and then turn the computers on i still don't pop the breaker it's just a little concerning.

You can still overdraw without tripping the breaker.

muh specs 

Gaming and HTPC (reparations)- ASUS 1080, MSI X99A SLI Plus, 5820k- 4.5GHz @ 1.25v, asetek based 360mm AIO, RM 1000x, 16GB memory, 750D with front USB 2.0 replaced with 3.0  ports, 2 250GB 850 EVOs in Raid 0 (why not, only has games on it), some hard drives

Screens- Acer preditor XB241H (1080p, 144Hz Gsync), LG 1080p ultrawide, (all mounted) directly wired to TV in other room

Stuff- k70 with reds, steel series rival, g13, full desk covering mouse mat

All parts black

Workstation(desk)- 3770k, 970 reference, 16GB of some crucial memory, a motherboard of some kind I don't remember, Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI, CM Storm Trooper (It's got a handle, can you handle that?), 240mm Asetek based AIO, Crucial M550 256GB (upgrade soon), some hard drives, disc drives, and hot swap bays

Screens- 3  ASUS VN248H-P IPS 1080p screens mounted on a stand, some old tv on the wall above it. 

Stuff- Epicgear defiant (solderless swappable switches), g600, moutned mic and other stuff. 

Laptop docking area- 2 1440p korean monitors mounted, one AHVA matte, one samsung PLS gloss (very annoying, yes). Trashy Razer blackwidow chroma...I mean like the J key doesn't click anymore. I got a model M i use on it to, but its time for a new keyboard. Some edgy Utechsmart mouse similar to g600. Hooked to laptop dock for both of my dell precision laptops. (not only docking area)

Shelf- i7-2600 non-k (has vt-d), 380t, some ASUS sandy itx board, intel quad nic. Currently hosts shared files, setting up as pfsense box in VM. Also acts as spare gaming PC with a 580 or whatever someone brings. Hooked into laptop dock area via usb switch

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This is really good advice to.its definly not a bad idea to find all the things on that breaker.

This came part server experience part watching bitcoin/litecoin miners nearly burn their houses down all of the time

muh specs 

Gaming and HTPC (reparations)- ASUS 1080, MSI X99A SLI Plus, 5820k- 4.5GHz @ 1.25v, asetek based 360mm AIO, RM 1000x, 16GB memory, 750D with front USB 2.0 replaced with 3.0  ports, 2 250GB 850 EVOs in Raid 0 (why not, only has games on it), some hard drives

Screens- Acer preditor XB241H (1080p, 144Hz Gsync), LG 1080p ultrawide, (all mounted) directly wired to TV in other room

Stuff- k70 with reds, steel series rival, g13, full desk covering mouse mat

All parts black

Workstation(desk)- 3770k, 970 reference, 16GB of some crucial memory, a motherboard of some kind I don't remember, Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI, CM Storm Trooper (It's got a handle, can you handle that?), 240mm Asetek based AIO, Crucial M550 256GB (upgrade soon), some hard drives, disc drives, and hot swap bays

Screens- 3  ASUS VN248H-P IPS 1080p screens mounted on a stand, some old tv on the wall above it. 

Stuff- Epicgear defiant (solderless swappable switches), g600, moutned mic and other stuff. 

Laptop docking area- 2 1440p korean monitors mounted, one AHVA matte, one samsung PLS gloss (very annoying, yes). Trashy Razer blackwidow chroma...I mean like the J key doesn't click anymore. I got a model M i use on it to, but its time for a new keyboard. Some edgy Utechsmart mouse similar to g600. Hooked to laptop dock for both of my dell precision laptops. (not only docking area)

Shelf- i7-2600 non-k (has vt-d), 380t, some ASUS sandy itx board, intel quad nic. Currently hosts shared files, setting up as pfsense box in VM. Also acts as spare gaming PC with a 580 or whatever someone brings. Hooked into laptop dock area via usb switch

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when i turn my pc on my lights dim as well, im not concerned though 

CPU: i7 4770k@4.3Ghz GPU: GTX 780ti Motherboard: ROG maximus vi formula PSU: Evga supernova 1000w Platinum

Case: NZXT Switch 810 Memory: g.skill ripjaws X Cooler: Corsair h100i(getting custom loop when i get money next) Storage: Samsung 840 evo 250gb Keyboard: Corsair K95 Mouse: SteelSeries Rival

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Lights flicking is ok, and is normal for a lot of appliances. But double check everything, because if it flickers at startup, what would it do with both PCs under load?

 

I have run 3dmark11 on both at the same time and the light didn't appear to dim which would be a pretty heavy load, on the gpu side anyway.

i7 10700k @ 5.1Ghz, 1.37v | Asus Z490-E Strix | Asus Rtx 2080ti Strix | 16Gb Trident Z Rgb @ 3600MHz | Samsung 970 Pro | EVGA Supernova G2 850w  | Corsair 500D | Celcius s36 /w ML Pro's

 

i7 8700k @ 4.8GHz, 1.31v | Asus Z370-A Prime | Asus Gtx 1080ti Strix | 16Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum | Samsung 850 Evo | Corsair TX 650W  | Corsair 750D | Corsair H100i v2 /w SP-120's

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I use the 2 on my desk for different things but also if me and the wife want to play a game together or something 2 computers is required. The 3rd is just an fx6300 with a gtx 660 that got handed down to my son a long time ago for him to play and do school work.

Ah, I see.

 

Also, I wouldn't be too worried, because in my room the lights at my desk flicker when I turn on my little electric space heater.

Someone told Luke and Linus at CES 2017 to "Unban the legend known as Jerakl" and that's about all I've got going for me. (It didn't work)

 

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Let me ask this real quick. I know that for a receptacle 90% of the residential ones are wired with a single lead of a Hot, Neutral, & Ground with a copper connector on the receptacle to pass the current from one to the other. Does it make a difference at all if one or both are populated with the same voltage.

 

As in, if you would put 1000w to one receptacle or 500w to each receptacle it is still pushing 1000w or roughly 8.3 amps to breaker right?

i7 10700k @ 5.1Ghz, 1.37v | Asus Z490-E Strix | Asus Rtx 2080ti Strix | 16Gb Trident Z Rgb @ 3600MHz | Samsung 970 Pro | EVGA Supernova G2 850w  | Corsair 500D | Celcius s36 /w ML Pro's

 

i7 8700k @ 4.8GHz, 1.31v | Asus Z370-A Prime | Asus Gtx 1080ti Strix | 16Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum | Samsung 850 Evo | Corsair TX 650W  | Corsair 750D | Corsair H100i v2 /w SP-120's

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Let me ask this real quick. I know that for a receptacle 90% of the residential ones are wired with a single lead of a Hot, Neutral, & Ground with a copper connector on the receptacle to pass the current from one to the other. Does it make a difference at all if one or both are populated with the same voltage.

 

As in, if you would put 1000w to one receptacle or 500w to each receptacle it is still pushing 1000w or roughly 8.3 amps to breaker right?

Yes.

 

Also, do you know what gauge wiring is wired into the receptacle? My father does construction work, and he only uses gauge 12 for outlets. But in some places, they get away with 14 gauge (smaller diameter). 

▶ Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning. - Einstein◀

Please remember to mark a thread as solved if your issue has been fixed, it helps other who may stumble across the thread at a later point in time.

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