Water Cooling 101 - A good place for newbies to start

[CornOnJacob]

if i build a second pump in the loop, where would i place it?

You can buy dual pump blocks like this one.

[EclipseSkye]

So, I was wondering, for my case ( CM 690 II Advanced) , there's space for a 240 radiator up top, but to make it fit, I have to place the fans on top, and the radiators inside the case.

 

Borrowing a picture from overclock.net (http://www.overclock.net/t/964445/coolmaster-cm690-ii-advance-liquid-cool-build)

 

 

There would be a gap between the radiator and the fans, would this affect the cooling performance? Seeing I'm going for a high FPI radiator, and using my Scythe AP-15s, wouldnt the fans just suck the air from the gaps, not through the radiator?

[Ghost]

So, I was wondering, for my case ( CM 690 II Advanced) , there's space for a 240 radiator up top, but to make it fit, I have to place the fans on top, and the radiators inside the case.

 

Borrowing a picture from overclock.net (http://www.overclock.net/t/964445/coolmaster-cm690-ii-advance-liquid-cool-build)

 

There would be a gap between the radiator and the fans, would this affect the cooling performance? Seeing I'm going for a high FPI radiator, and using my Scythe AP-15s, wouldnt the fans just suck the air from the gaps, not through the radiator?

There would be a negligible performance decrease. Believe me when I say the radiator is no way near as restrictive as that gap.

[Gizm0#1]

Building/Filling/Maintenance of a Loop

You should refer to Linus’s Videos and your manuals that come with all your water cooling gear. This should more than adequate for understanding what you need to, to put your loop together.

****** Still working on it*******

Thank you very much good sir for taking the time to post this, it was very helpfull  in making me understand the funamentals of water cooling. i am a noob to water cooling and this help alot, appreciated alot and thank you.

[Shyxlol]

Ok, I'm new to water cooling and I think I got most of the information I need except for two things:

Is one tubing size better than the other? (13/19 vs 10/13 if I'm correct?)

And is there any reason not to buy used things like a reservoir/compression fittings/CPU block? I went through ebay and actually found some nice stuff (like 8 EK-comp fittings +2 bitspower 45° for 25€) and I'm unsure if I should buy it or not.

 

Thanks in advance and please go easy on me :)

[Ghost]

Ok, I'm new to water cooling and I think I got most of the information I need except for two things:

Is one tubing size better than the other? (13/19 vs 10/13 if I'm correct?)

And is there any reason not to buy used things like a reservoir/compression fittings/CPU block? I went through ebay and actually found some nice stuff (like 8 EK-comp fittings +2 bitspower 45° for 25€) and I'm unsure if I should buy it or not.

 

Thanks in advance and please go easy on me :)

• No
• No - I got my whole first watercooling set-up on ebay. Just make sure to flush anything out and always buy your tubing and coolant new.

[Whaler_99]

Ok, I'm new to water cooling and I think I got most of the information I need except for two things:

Is one tubing size better than the other? (13/19 vs 10/13 if I'm correct?)

And is there any reason not to buy used things like a reservoir/compression fittings/CPU block? I went through ebay and actually found some nice stuff (like 8 EK-comp fittings +2 bitspower 45° for 25€) and I'm unsure if I should buy it or not.

 

Thanks in advance and please go easy on me :)

 

If you buy used, be prepared to open it up and check and make sure it is clean, no gunk, any o-rings still in good shape, etc. You will save some money, but put some time into making sure it is a ll clean.

[Gizm0#1]

is 3/8 tubbing the best one to use ? ive been looking and a gentalmen from 3Dgameman.com advised to use 3/8 tubbing but iam not Sure

[1wsx10]

Fans

This is a pretty simple subject but is often overlooked. You really just want a fan that matches the size of your radiator that is SP (static pressure) optimized. Just like water pumps, fans have to be able to push air through a restrictive area. CFM ratings do very little to help you pick a good SP fan. I have added some Fan round ups but as time goes on they will become out of date. So a quick Google search will help you pick fans you can afford, that match your style and color theme, and will work well in a radiator set up.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?261778-120mm-Fan-Testing-on-an-MCR120-Radiator-Round-6

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/331629-28-cooling-roundup-2012

*Note- People always asks if your fans should push or push, or both push and pull. The quick answer is push and pull perform very closely and push/pull will always give you better performance. Linus did a good video on it and can be seen here:

I think you meant to say push or pull, not push or push

[Matrix19]

Great detail :)

[Shyxlol]

Do you need an anticyclone in a tubic res if you have your inlet port at the top (with a tube going down)?

[Ghost]

Do you need an anticyclone in a tubic res if you have your inlet port at the top (with a tube going down)?

Its still based on the bath tub principle. When you take the plug out and water starts to sucked away a cyclone forms. It doesn't matter where the inlet is. In a bath tub there is in fact no inlet as an example. If the bottom of that cyclone touches the bottom of the reservoir you are going to get a LOT of air going into your loop, which means you will have the bleed your loop again.

 

There are anti-cyclone foams. Just a piece of foam you put at the bottom to stop any spinning motion coming from the pull of the water. Look at this for an example: http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81091378&kind2=7

[Shyxlol]

Ok, I have one of the older EK-res x2 so I can't get another top/bottom part with different ports/a cyclone.

So my part is to turn it upside down, have the inner tube go down where the inlet is and use the other one as a fill port.

Could I use 1-2 of these then? (prolly have to cut a little bit away)

Would save me a ton of money if I could use that res :)  (Well, compared to the total cost like a penny)

 

 

While I'm at it:

What about these

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-uv-blue-premix-1000ml.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/tube-primochill-primoflextm-advanced-lrttm-brilliant-uv-blue.html

 

(Probably no UV at first)

[Ghost]

Ok, I have one of the older EK-res x2 so I can't get another top/bottom part with different ports/a cyclone.

So my part is to turn it upside down, have the inner tube go down where the inlet is and use the other one as a fill port.

Could I use 1-2 of these then? (prolly have to cut a little bit away)

Would save me a ton of money if I could use that res :)  (Well, compared to the total cost like a penny)

I'm 99% sure you could. Never seen anyone actually use their own sponge. But there should be no difference.

 

Coolant is good, tubing is good.

[Shyxlol]

It actually says in German "reduces foam and cyclone forming in reservoirs"

[Ghost]

It actually says in German "reduces foam and cyclone forming in reservoirs"

Ah I didn't bother to translate it, in that case go for it. :)

[Shyxlol]

Ok, my last 3 questions to round everything up:

 

1. EK uv blue coolant vs Mayhems (Mayhems is 2€ more expensive/liter)

2. Blue tubing or clear tubing? What looks better together with a blue mobo (p8z77) and visible coolant?

3. Silence will be one of my main priorities so I'll be using either SP120 quiet undervolted or AP123 and I'm unsure about my rad. Probably pushpull.

Is the Nexxxos UT60 ok regarding fin density for quiet (aka slow) fans?

[Ghost]

Ok, my last 3 questions to round everything up:

 

1. EK uv blue coolant vs Mayhems (Mayhems is 2€ more expensive/liter)

2. Blue tubing or clear tubing? What looks better together with a blue mobo (p8z77) and visible coolant?

3. Silence will be one of my main priorities so I'll be using either SP120 quiet undervolted or AP123 and I'm unsure about my rad. Probably pushpull.

Is the Nexxxos UT60 ok regarding fin density for quiet (aka slow) fans?

• Mayhems has compatibility issues. Go for the EK.
• Blue tubing is easier to deal with.
• Yes it is

[cablegaai]

Hey guys,

 

I'm new to watercooling also.

 

I bought the Swiftech H220 AIO together with a new case Corsair 600T.

The video review from Linus techtips convinced me this was the best on the market and relative easy going for beginners like me.

 

When i wanted to mount everything, i came to the conclusion that i was not able to install the rad on top of my case since my RAM blocks this.

Now i wanted to know, if anybody has an idea which mobo's are compatible with the H220 setup.

Swiftech is not very helpful as i already posted my question on their formum but noone from the representatives seems to care ....

 

Currently i have an Asrock 890gx extreme 3 mobo (AMD AM3) and would like to change it to a Haswell setup.

 

So i'm looking for some info before ordering a new mobo.

 

I don't know if my post is in the right categorie of the forum, so mods, be my guest to move it if needed.

 

Thanks in advance!

[Ghost]

Swiftech is not very helpful as i already posted my question on their formum but noone from the representatives seems to care ....

 

Currently i have an Asrock 890gx extreme 3 mobo (AMD AM3) and would like to change it to a Haswell setup.

 

So i'm looking for some info before ordering a new mobo.

The H220 works with socket 1150 if that's what you are asking.

 

I have never heard anyone complain of Swiftech's support before; interesting.

[Shyxlol]

On a scale from 1-10-impossibru how hard is it to remove my CPU from the loop without opening the loop? 

Can I just remove my block (EK), lift it up/push it sideways to lift the lever and clean it then? Or is there a high probability that I won't be able to do so because the block is too big and the loop to tightly fitted?

 

It's not about switching my CPU, it's about delidding just FYI

[Ghost]

On a scale from 1-10-impossibru how hard is it to remove my CPU from the loop without opening the loop? 

Can I just remove my block (EK), lift it up/push it sideways to lift the lever and clean it then? Or is there a high probability that I won't be able to do so because the block is too big and the loop to tightly fitted?

 

It's not about switching my CPU, it's about delidding just FYI

You have to change mounts or do modifications to your old ones when you de-lid.

[Shyxlol]

You have to change mounts or do modifications to your old ones when you de-lid.

No, I mean delidding and relidding, but with good thermal compound :)

[Ghost]

No, I mean delidding and relidding, but with good thermal compound :)

Directly answering your question; yes you can. Just take the CPU block off provided you left enough slack in the tubing to do this.

 

I would watch out if you're mounting a de-lidded CPU though.

[cablegaai]

The H220 works with socket 1150 if that's what you are asking.

 

I have never heard anyone complain of Swiftech's support before; interesting.

 

Ok, Swiftech answered my question now, but it took about 5 days ... anyways they answered and i'm happy :)