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How many fans can I connect to my current Motherboard?

RayNzz
By RayNzz
in Cooling
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Go to solution Solved by RevGAM,

Fans usually have the max draw shown on the hub label. If not, the box they came in or the website should indicate the max current. Case fans, even if they are the same model number as those sold alone may not be the same, though, such as the FC120 on the DeepCool LS AIO, which are stronger than the same model stood by itself. 

 

Most headers provide 1A max, so make sure that the total doesn't exceed that, unless you're plugging a powered hub into it, in which case you follow its instructions. 

Posted

I'm looking to change my PC case and I'm looking for one's with free 3-120mm fans I just wonder how I can use all of them since my A320m only has - 2 x Chassis Fan Connectors (1 x 4-pin, 1 x 3-pin) also The Chassis Fan Connector supports the chassis fan of maximum 1A (12W) fan power, Do I need some kind of dongle or extension? I'm also replacing my AMD stock wraith cooler with a Deepcol AG400 Plus just wondering if it's good.

Current spec
Cube gaming Blig case
Asrock A320M-HDV R4.0
Ryzen 5 5600X
GTX 1600TI
Flux 650 Watts power supply

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Posted
8 minutes ago, RayNzz said:

I'm looking to change my PC case and I'm looking for one's with free 3-120mm fans I just wonder how I can use all of them since my A320m only has - 2 x Chassis Fan Connectors (1 x 4-pin, 1 x 3-pin) also The Chassis Fan Connector supports the chassis fan of maximum 1A (12W) fan power, Do I need some kind of dongle or extension? I'm also replacing my AMD stock wraith cooler with a Deepcol AG400 Plus just wondering if it's good.

Current spec
Cube gaming Blig case
Asrock A320M-HDV R4.0
Ryzen 5 5600X
GTX 1600TI
Flux 650 Watts power supply

You will need to use a fan hub or a splitter cable.

I suggest to just buy fan hub with external SATA power input.

 

Example :

https://www.amazon.com/LRONG-Chassis-Cooling-Controller-Speed/dp/B097DG1TXL/ref=sr_1_13?crid=29U8TQS7GXY6O&qid=1708264178&sprefix=fan ,aps,777

 

Either you connect all the case fans to that hub and they all change speed at the same time

Or you connect just intake / exhaust (whichever has more fans) to the hub, and the other ends up with 3 pin (non PWM) connection.

There is approximately 99% chance I edited my post

Refresh before you reply

__________________________________________

ENGLISH IS NOT MY NATIVE LANGUAGE, NOT EVEN 2ND LANGUAGE. PLEASE FORGIVE ME FOR ANY CONFUSION AND/OR MISUNDERSTANDING THAT MAY HAPPEN BECAUSE OF IT.

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2 minutes ago, RayNzz said:

I'm looking to change my PC case and I'm looking for one's with free 3-120mm fans I just wonder how I can use all of them since my A320m only has - 2 x Chassis Fan Connectors (1 x 4-pin, 1 x 3-pin) also The Chassis Fan Connector supports the chassis fan of maximum 1A (12W) fan power, Do I need some kind of dongle or extension?

 

I'm also replacing my AMD stock wraith cooler with a Deepcol AG400 Plus just wondering if it's good.

Current spec
Asrock A320M-HDV R4.0

For a 5600X the stock cooler is basically fine and I don't know how much extra performance you'll really gain by upgrading the cooler. If you do decide to buy a tower cooler for it, try to stay below £20 or $25.

 

As for fans, a typical fan uses 0.2 to 0.3A, so if you don't know the amp draw of the fans don't try to power more than 3 fans from one header (you can use splitter cables in this situation). If you need to power more than 3 fans, buy a SATA powered pwm fan hub.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websites: https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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  • Solution

Fans usually have the max draw shown on the hub label. If not, the box they came in or the website should indicate the max current. Case fans, even if they are the same model number as those sold alone may not be the same, though, such as the FC120 on the DeepCool LS AIO, which are stronger than the same model stood by itself. 

 

Most headers provide 1A max, so make sure that the total doesn't exceed that, unless you're plugging a powered hub into it, in which case you follow its instructions. 

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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18 hours ago, will0hlep said:

For a 5600X the stock cooler is basically fine and I don't know how much extra performance you'll really gain by upgrading the cooler. If you do decide to buy a tower cooler for it, try to stay below £20 or $25.

 

As for fans, a typical fan uses 0.2 to 0.3A, so if you don't know the amp draw of the fans don't try to power more than 3 fans from one header (you can use splitter cables in this situation). If you need to power more than 3 fans, buy a SATA powered pwm fan hub.

Currently my wraith stealth cooler can't cool the 5600x when I tried Valorant it went to 77c but my room was cold around 25c, also thanks I'll buy a fan hub with sata power one. Thanks for the help 🙏

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1 hour ago, RayNzz said:

Currently my wraith stealth cooler can't cool the 5600x when I tried Valorant it went to 77c but my room was cold around 25c, also thanks I'll buy a fan hub with sata power one. Thanks for the help 🙏

77c is not warm for a CPU. That is an entirely within safe parameters. If you upgrade your cooler, you might get the CPU to run a bit cooler, but I doubt you'll get much extra performance out of it. As I said before, If you do decide to buy a tower cooler for it, try to stay below £20 or $25. Otherwise you'd be wasting money.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websites: https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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On 2/19/2024 at 4:21 PM, will0hlep said:

77c is not warm for a CPU. That is an entirely within safe parameters. If you upgrade your cooler, you might get the CPU to run a bit cooler, but I doubt you'll get much extra performance out of it. As I said before, If you do decide to buy a tower cooler for it, try to stay below £20 or $25. Otherwise you'd be wasting money.

I'm currently waiting on my  jonsbo cr-1400 which costs around 220000 IDR (14 Dollars ish) I also might combo it with Artic mx-6 or a Thermal Grizzly thermal paste and I also just tried rendering a 10 min video for my school and the CPU temps went to 90c and on Cinebench R23 it was around 86c with the stock cooler. Thanks for the help 🙏

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5 hours ago, RayNzz said:

I'm currently waiting on my  jonsbo cr-1400 which costs around 220000 IDR (14 Dollars ish) I also might combo it with Artic mx-6 or a Thermal Grizzly thermal paste and I also just tried rendering a 10 min video for my school and the CPU temps went to 90c and on Cinebench R23 it was around 86c with the stock cooler. Thanks for the help 🙏

Selamat pagi! TG is very expensive. Is Honeywell PTM7950 available in your area? Otherwise, MX-6 is very good. Most modern TIMs are within 3 degrees of each other, even some really cheap ones. 

 

I'd like it if you would let me know your impression of that Jonsbo...

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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  • 2 weeks later...
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On 2/26/2024 at 8:20 PM, RevGAM said:

Selamat pagi! TG is very expensive. Is Honeywell PTM7950 available in your area? Otherwise, MX-6 is very good. Most modern TIMs are within 3 degrees of each other, even some really cheap ones. 

 

I'd like it if you would let me know your impression of that Jonsbo...

Hey I'm sorry if this info is super late but The jonsbo cr-1400 performs way better then the stock cooler in comparison when I play Fortnite the stock cooler gets to around 79C-81C the jonsbo only hit 73C, When I test  cinebench it only hits 77C with the jonsbo and the stock hits 86C, and for valorant it runs around 68-69 Celcius wayyyy...... cooler then the stock one I Haven't tested rendering a video since I reseted my pc but I think it's gonna be way cooler than before.

I bought a MX-4 since the MX-6 Was out of stock and I just couldn't wait anymore.

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4 hours ago, RayNzz said:

Hey I'm sorry if this info is super late but The jonsbo cr-1400 performs way better then the stock cooler in comparison when I play Fortnite the stock cooler gets to around 79C-81C the jonsbo only hit 73C, When I test  cinebench it only hits 77C with the jonsbo and the stock hits 86C, and for valorant it runs around 68-69 Celcius wayyyy...... cooler then the stock one I Haven't tested rendering a video since I reseted my pc but I think it's gonna be way cooler than before.

I bought a MX-4 since the MX-6 Was out of stock and I just couldn't wait anymore.

Trims! That's very helpful!

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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