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How to Remove Wraith Prism Cooler From a 3+ Years Old System?

BlackCastle
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Go to solution Solved by 191x7,

You did everything right. Try wiggling more. Don't be afraid, the worst thing that can happen is having the CPU come off together with the cooler, and that doesn't damage the slot.

 

The stuff AMD uses on those coolers becomes almost like a weld. I had the same issue with a 3700X and it's cooler.

Nothing would work except brute force and straightening a few bent pins afterward. 

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As the title suggests, I want to remove the cooler 3+ years since I built my new PC. I recently bought a Ryzen 7 5700x and Deepcool AK620. Today I fired up AIDA64 and started the stress test for 5 mins. The temperature reached up to 90 degrees Celcius. And it started to go up and down. Since there is a chance of the cooler getting stuck to the CPU, I had the stress test performed beforehand to avoid that. After the test, I shut off my system and pulled the latch up. Then pushed down the cooler and bit to disconnect the latch from the motherboard bracket on both sides of the cooler. Then I tried to wiggle it clockwise and counter clockwise. But it won't budge even a little bit. It felt like the paste was stuck like crazy. In this case, what do I do? Like, do I need to run the stress test for a longer time to soften the paste? I saw YT vids where they got the cooler removed pretty easily with this method. I think I am doing something wrong here. Please point it out. The cooler was hard stuck that I was afraid I might pull out the CPU with it, so in order to avoid damaging it, I put everything back how it was. I haven't changed thermal paste in 3+ years.

 

  • CPU : AMD Ryzen 7 5700X - CPU Cooler : Deepcool AK620 - Motherboard : ASUS TUF x570 GAMING PLUS WiFi - RAM : Corsair Vengence LPX 16 GB 3200 MHz x 2 - GPU : Zotac GeForce GTX 1660Ti Non-AMP - Case : Corsair Graphite Series 760T - Storage : Lexar NM620 M.2 256GB ; Seagate Barracuda 4 TB 5400 RPM ; Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM x2 - PSU : Corsair HX850 80+ Platinum - Display(s) : LG 24” FHD IPS 3-Side Borderless Monitor with Dual HDMI -  Keyboard : A4 Tech - Mouse : A4 Tech - Sound : Microlab TMN1 4:1 - Operating System : Windows 10 64 bit version 22H2 (OS Build 19045.4291)
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  • Solution

You did everything right. Try wiggling more. Don't be afraid, the worst thing that can happen is having the CPU come off together with the cooler, and that doesn't damage the slot.

 

The stuff AMD uses on those coolers becomes almost like a weld. I had the same issue with a 3700X and it's cooler.

Nothing would work except brute force and straightening a few bent pins afterward. 

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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14 minutes ago, BlackCastle said:

As the title suggests, I want to remove the cooler 3+ years since I built my new PC. I recently bought a Ryzen 7 5700x and Deepcool AK620. Today I fired up AIDA64 and started the stress test for 5 mins. The temperature reached up to 90 degrees Celcius. And it started to go up and down. Since there is a chance of the cooler getting stuck to the CPU, I had the stress test performed beforehand to avoid that. After the test, I shut off my system and pulled the latch up. Then pushed down the cooler and bit to disconnect the latch from the motherboard bracket on both sides of the cooler. Then I tried to wiggle it clockwise and counter clockwise. But it won't budge even a little bit. It felt like the paste was stuck like crazy. In this case, what do I do? Like, do I need to run the stress test for a longer time to soften the paste? I saw YT vids where they got the cooler removed pretty easily with this method. I think I am doing something wrong here. Please point it out. The cooler was hard stuck that I was afraid I might pull out the CPU with it, so in order to avoid damaging it, I put everything back how it was. I haven't changed thermal paste in 3+ years.

 

I mean, you could try running a stress test for like 10 minutes while the CPU is at a high temp then immediately  try taking the cooler off. I'm pretty sure you can just pull it off. Like said above you will need to use force and if it bends a pin, oh well you can fix it.

My First PC
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600x
Cooler: Asus TUF Gaming LC240
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B550-f gaming
RAM: 4x8 GB Corsair Vengeance RS (3200 MHz, CL16)
Storage: 1tb Samsung 980 Pro
Graphics Card: Asus Dual RTX 2060 OC
Case: Deepcool Matrexx 50
Power Supply: Corsair RM650x
Headset: Razer Blackshark V2
Keyboard: Corsair K70 Pro Mini (Speed Silver switches)
Mouse: Razer Viper Mini
Only changes I have made is I sold the 2060 for $235 AUD and bought a Powercolor Red Devil 6700 XT for $400 second hand (it was barely used, think I scored a deal on Ebay with that).
I'm learning video editing and trying to get some cash as a high school student.
I like F1, my favourite team is Scuderia Ferrari and favourite driver is Charles Leclerc. Favourite track is Red Bull Ring in Austria.
Playing with a 1080p 60hz monitor right now, hoping to upgrade to a 1440p 144hz one soon.

Living in AU and that pisses me off since every event is late at night or early in the morning (almost every F1 race starts around 11 PM AEST time)
 

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Just now, 191x7 said:

You did everything right. Try wiggling more. Don't be afraid, the worst thing that can happen is having the CPU come off together with the cooler, and that doesn't damage the slot.

 

The stuff AMD uses on those coolers becomes almost like a weld. I had the same issue with a 3700X and it's cooler.

Nothing would work except brute force and straightening a few bent pins afterward. 

Yeah technically the CPU coming off isn't a real issue, but one time I had it came off, slip and fell on the board, spraying paste all over the CPU and PCie slots, and it fell on its pins (like the famous toast..), putting paste even between them, it was a hassle to clean up everything!!

System : AMD R9 5900X / Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO/ 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance 3600CL18 / ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Eisbaer 280mm AIO (with 2xArctic P14 fans) / 2TB Crucial T500  NVme + 2TB WD SN850 NVme + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD drives/ Corsair RM850x PSU/  Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

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18 minutes ago, BlackCastle said:

As the title suggests, I want to remove the cooler 3+ years since I built my new PC. I recently bought a Ryzen 7 5700x and Deepcool AK620. Today I fired up AIDA64 and started the stress test for 5 mins. The temperature reached up to 90 degrees Celcius. And it started to go up and down. Since there is a chance of the cooler getting stuck to the CPU, I had the stress test performed beforehand to avoid that. After the test, I shut off my system and pulled the latch up. Then pushed down the cooler and bit to disconnect the latch from the motherboard bracket on both sides of the cooler. Then I tried to wiggle it clockwise and counter clockwise. But it won't budge even a little bit. It felt like the paste was stuck like crazy. In this case, what do I do? Like, do I need to run the stress test for a longer time to soften the paste? I saw YT vids where they got the cooler removed pretty easily with this method. I think I am doing something wrong here. Please point it out. The cooler was hard stuck that I was afraid I might pull out the CPU with it, so in order to avoid damaging it, I put everything back how it was. I haven't changed thermal paste in 3+ years.

 

I don't recommend this, but from my experience of removing box AM4 coolers, removing it with the CPU was easier. In my case CPUs survived each time.

Main system: Ryzen 7 7800X3D / Asus ROG Strix B650E / G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO 32GB 6000Mhz / Powercolor RX 7900 XTX Red Devil/ EVGA 750W GQ / NZXT H5 Flow

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