solder and flux quetion

[thrasher_565]

12 hours ago, RollyShed said:

You say "no flux is the key".

No, that is wrong, flux is the key.

The solder should have enough flux in it.

 

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I now always use a cheap soldering iron, 25 watts though 30 watts might be a bit better. I can use a cheap one because I know how to solder and have been doing it for about 70 years. The last job I did was yesterday, a circuit board and connections to it. A work we had temperature controlled soldering irons and they were good for the job.

 

My solder is 0.8 mm, resin core, tin/lead.

 

Duratech make good solder, 1mm, tin/lead and I suspect that is the brand I have though most of the label fell off a couple of decades ago.

 

The comment about "don't start by melting solder on the tip of the iron" is wrong. The tip needs to be "wetted" so it makes good thermal contact.

The solder is then melted on to the wire. You "tin" the wire and then solder the "wetted" wire to the contact.

 

the no should be know in lazzy

 

i no how tining works but if your solder wont stick then it wont work... wont stick to the wire and then your heating it for like 30 seconds trying to get it off the iron... and i no 2 seconds is what you sould be doing to melt the solder... so any flux left is gone and its going to be crap solder not only that it heats up the connetor and heats up the wire and can melt the ruber a bit.

 

anyway i went with the best iron out there for the money hako so i cant use that as why i cant solder...

Edited May 29, 2023 by SansVarnic
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[SansVarnic]

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