Problems into More Problems (GPU, PSU, more) Probable Short-circuit

[Enterbob]

So I've been trying to work on my first PC build, and I watched a couple of videos before starting. I watched LTT's guide about pre-testing and proceeded to what I thought was the correct configuration of cables. The first issue I had was the GPU and the monitor hooked up to the GPU to the HDMI port did not start up when powered on so I began to give up. But then I had the great idea of hooking the PSU to the motherboard to the EAXT12V_1 port on the motherboard alongside the 24pin connector. When I turned on the PSU, there was a click/pop then I immediately turned it off. It did not trip the breaker. I put the cables back to how I had them originally and now nothing seems to turn on. I am unsure if or what I have short-circuited so any help would be much appreciated. Below is a description of how I set up the cables

 

Set Up 1:

Wall -> power cable -> PSU

PSU -> 24pin cable -> Motherboard

Motherboard -> PCIe -> GPU

 

Set Up 2:

Power Outlet -> power cable -> PSU

PSU -> 24pin cable -> Motherboard

PSU -> PCIe -> GPU

PSU -> PCIe -> Motherboard

 

Components:

PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certifired Fully Modular

Motherboard: Asus TUF Gaming X570-plus WIFI

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x

GPU: Gigabyte Windforce OC GeForce RTX 4070 12GB

 

Attached as "IMG-2457" was the first set up, Attached as "IMG-2458 is the mistake.

 

Lmk if you need any more information. Thank you

[-rascal-]

44 minutes ago, Enterbob said:

So I've been trying to work on my first PC build, and I watched a couple of videos before starting. I watched LTT's guide about pre-testing and proceeded to what I thought was the correct configuration of cables. The first issue I had was the GPU and the monitor hooked up to the GPU to the HDMI port did not start up when powered on so I began to give up. But then I had the great idea of hooking the PSU to the motherboard to the EAXT12V_1 port on the motherboard alongside the 24pin connector. When I turned on the PSU, there was a click/pop then I immediately turned it off. It did not trip the breaker. I put the cables back to how I had them originally and now nothing seems to turn on. I am unsure if or what I have short-circuited so any help would be much appreciated. Below is a description of how I set up the cables

 

Set Up 1:

Wall -> power cable -> PSU

PSU -> 24pin cable -> Motherboard

Motherboard -> PCIe -> GPU

 

Set Up 2:

Power Outlet -> power cable -> PSU

PSU -> 24pin cable -> Motherboard

PSU -> PCIe -> GPU

PSU -> PCIe -> Motherboard

 

Components:

PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certifired Fully Modular

Motherboard: Asus TUF Gaming X570-plus WIFI

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x

GPU: Gigabyte Windforce OC GeForce RTX 4070 12GB

 

Attached as "IMG-2457" was the first set up, Attached as "IMG-2458 is the mistake.

 

Lmk if you need any more information. Thank you

 

 

Wait, what??

You plugged a PCI-E 8-pin into the EPS 8-pin socket on the motherboard??

How?! PCI-E 8-pin and EPS 8-pin for the motherboard are keyed differently -- you would have to FORCE the wrong cable in.

If this is what you did, then you probably fried the motherboard.

 

Both pictures the connections are wrong and can damage parts.

The PCI-E 8-pin for graphics card and motherboard 8-pin EPS/EATX SHOULD NOT be daisy-chained together.

 

In the first picture you have:

PSU -> ATX 24-pin cable -> 24-pin ATX on motherboard (GOOD)

PSU -> PCI-E Cable -> 8-pin EATX (AKA EPS) on motherboard + 8-pin PCI-E oo graphics card (BAD)

 

In the second picture you have:

PSU -> ATX 24-pin cable -> 24-pin ATX on motherboard (GOOD)

PSU -> PCI-E Cable -> 8-pin PCI-E on graphics card (GOOD)

PSU -> PCI-E Cable -> 8-pin EATX / EPS on motherboard (BAD)

 

What you SHOULD have:

PSU -> ATX 24-pin cable -> 24-pin ATX on motherboard

PSU -> 8-pin EATX/EPS Cable -> 8-pin EATX/EPS connector on motherboard

PSU -> 8-pin PCI-E power cable -> 8-pin PCI-E connector on graphics card

 

Either the motherboard and/or graphics card is toast.

The power supply SHOULD have protections within itself to protect itself from shorts / over-current protection / over-voltage protection.

 

 

 

[aledsav1]

Oh Dear....your gonna need another motherboard/or gpu/ or potentially psu as well to test which part is fried..

 

Very dangerous good ideas when they are not coming from knowledge, could be an expensive lesson

[Enterbob]

6 minutes ago, aledsav1 said:

Oh Dear....your gonna need another motherboard/or gpu/ or potentially psu as well to test which part is fried..

 

Very dangerous good ideas when they are not coming from knowledge, could be an expensive lesson

Yeah, my dumb monkey brain was telling me this cable fits in this hole and should've stopped a while ago... I knew when to stop and should've but didn't

[-rascal-]

8 minutes ago, Enterbob said:

Yeah, my dumb monkey brain was telling me this cable fits in this hole and should've stopped a while ago... I knew when to stop and should've but didn't

 

Do you know any local PC repair store, or PC parts store nearby?

They should be able to help find out what parts are okay, and what needs to be replaced -- they should have extra working parts to swap / test.

[Enterbob]

50 minutes ago, -rascal- said:

 

Wait, what??

You plugged a PCI-E 8-pin into the EPS 8-pin socket on the motherboard??

How?! PCI-E 8-pin and EPS 8-pin for the motherboard are keyed differently -- you would have to FORCE the wrong cable in.

If this is what you did, then you probably fried the motherboard.

 

Both pictures the connections are wrong and can damage parts.

The PCI-E 8-pin for graphics card and motherboard 8-pin EPS/EATX SHOULD NOT be daisy-chained together.

 

In the first picture you have:

PSU -> ATX 24-pin cable -> 24-pin ATX on motherboard (GOOD)

PSU -> PCI-E Cable -> 8-pin EATX (AKA EPS) on motherboard + 8-pin PCI-E oo graphics card (BAD)

 

In the second picture you have:

PSU -> ATX 24-pin cable -> 24-pin ATX on motherboard (GOOD)

PSU -> PCI-E Cable -> 8-pin PCI-E on graphics card (GOOD)

PSU -> PCI-E Cable -> 8-pin EATX / EPS on motherboard (BAD)

 

What you SHOULD have:

PSU -> ATX 24-pin cable -> 24-pin ATX on motherboard

PSU -> 8-pin EATX/EPS Cable -> 8-pin EATX/EPS connector on motherboard

PSU -> 8-pin PCI-E power cable -> 8-pin PCI-E connector on graphics card

 

Either the motherboard and/or graphics card is toast.

The power supply SHOULD have protections within itself to protect itself from shorts / over-current protection / over-voltage protection.

 

 

 

Nothing was forced, everything went in smoothly. 

 

51 minutes ago, -rascal- said:

 

Wait, what??

You plugged a PCI-E 8-pin into the EPS 8-pin socket on the motherboard??

How?! PCI-E 8-pin and EPS 8-pin for the motherboard are keyed differently -- you would have to FORCE the wrong cable in.

If this is what you did, then you probably fried the motherboard.

 

Both pictures the connections are wrong and can damage parts.

The PCI-E 8-pin for graphics card and motherboard 8-pin EPS/EATX SHOULD NOT be daisy-chained together.

 

In the first picture you have:

PSU -> ATX 24-pin cable -> 24-pin ATX on motherboard (GOOD)

PSU -> PCI-E Cable -> 8-pin EATX (AKA EPS) on motherboard + 8-pin PCI-E oo graphics card (BAD)

 

In the second picture you have:

PSU -> ATX 24-pin cable -> 24-pin ATX on motherboard (GOOD)

PSU -> PCI-E Cable -> 8-pin PCI-E on graphics card (GOOD)

PSU -> PCI-E Cable -> 8-pin EATX / EPS on motherboard (BAD)

 

What you SHOULD have:

PSU -> ATX 24-pin cable -> 24-pin ATX on motherboard

PSU -> 8-pin EATX/EPS Cable -> 8-pin EATX/EPS connector on motherboard

PSU -> 8-pin PCI-E power cable -> 8-pin PCI-E connector on graphics card

 

Either the motherboard and/or graphics card is toast.

The power supply SHOULD have protections within itself to protect itself from shorts / over-current protection / over-voltage protection.

 

 

 

Okay, so I should've also clarified that nothing was forced.

As assumed, the PSU has protections within itself to not get blown up, which makes sense.

 

Below was the type of cable (I used 2) that came with the PSU box.

 

1 cable was "IMG-2459" (which ig is 8 Pin EPS-CPU) is connected to the motherboard, whereas the "IMG-2461" (which resembles 6 Pin PCI-E but the side hanging off wasn't plugged into anything) was plugged into the PSU.

2nd cable was 8 Pin EPS-CPU -> GPU and the "IMG-2460" (8 Pin PCI-E) was connected to the PSU

 

So ig only way to find out would be to test both the motherboard and GPU separately to see if they power on?

[Enterbob]

37 minutes ago, -rascal- said:

 

Do you know any local PC repair store, or PC parts store nearby?

They should be able to help find out what parts are okay, and what needs to be replaced -- they should have extra working parts to swap / test.

There is Canada Computers (where I bought a couple of parts from) as well as some local repair businesses.

 

Also, I should've noted that I tried booting it up in the first format a couple of different times with the keyboard plugged into a different USB slot each time. Where none of them resulted in the keyboard responding (new keyboard tested it on my laptop to see if it worked, which it did)

[-rascal-]

1 hour ago, Enterbob said:

Nothing was forced, everything went in smoothly. 

 

Okay, so I should've also clarified that nothing was forced.

As assumed, the PSU has protections within itself to not get blown up, which makes sense.

 

Below was the type of cable (I used 2) that came with the PSU box.

 

1 cable was "IMG-2459" (which ig is 8 Pin EPS-CPU) is connected to the motherboard, whereas the "IMG-2461" (which resembles 6 Pin PCI-E but the side hanging off wasn't plugged into anything) was plugged into the PSU.

2nd cable was 8 Pin EPS-CPU -> GPU and the "IMG-2460" (8 Pin PCI-E) was connected to the PSU

 

So ig only way to find out would be to test both the motherboard and GPU separately to see if they power on?

 

 

 

Look at the pin-out diagrams I posted previously, and look at the 8-pin blocks for PCI-E 8-pin and the 8-pin EPS-12V.

You can see the square and beveled pins, those are PURPOSELY in that order, so you cannot plug a 8-pin PCI-E into an 8-pin EPS, or vice-versa.

Basically, a square peg won't fit into a beveled / hex looking hole.

Unless you FORCE it in. 

 

The PCI-E 6+2 is so it can be used as either as a 75W PCI-E 6-pin connector, or a 150W PCI-E 8-pin connector.

 

8-pin EPS CPU -> GPU

THAT IS BAD.

An 8-pin EPS CPU SHOULD NOT FIT into a GPU 8-pin PCI-E.

 

It should be:

• 8-pin EPS -> 8-pin EPS on the motherboard
• 8-pin PCI-E -> 8-pin PCI-E on the graphics card.

 

1 hour ago, Enterbob said:

There is Canada Computers (where I bought a couple of parts from) as well as some local repair businesses.

 

Also, I should've noted that I tried booting it up in the first format a couple of different times with the keyboard plugged into a different USB slot each time. Where none of them resulted in the keyboard responding (new keyboard tested it on my laptop to see if it worked, which it did)

 

Okay, you should be able to take it into Canada Computers and should be able to do some troubleshooting / diagnostics for you.

I don't know how much they would charge you, but Memory Express helped me verify a dead CPU for $30, a few years ago...

 

Given your keyboard symptoms, the motherboard is probably dead then.

 

But I would have Canada Computers do a full check.

If you short-circuit a motherboard, that could potentially damage the CPU and Memory sticks, too...

Since those components gets power directly from the motherboard 24-pin and 8-pin power cables.

 

Your best bet, for the most thorough check, would to be to have a second CONFIRMED working system, and swap parts in, one at a time.

Again, if you don't have a second system, or a friend who has a system and can help you test parts, take it to Canada Computers.

1. Swap your graphics card in. Does it work?
2. Swap your RAM sticks in. Does it still work?
3. If possible, swap the CPU into another compatible motherboard. Does it work?
4. Put known good working CPU + RAM + GPU into a known good working motherboard. Does it work?
5. Test the PSU with another complete system. Does that work?

 

[Enterbob]

20 hours ago, -rascal- said:

 

Look at the pin-out diagrams I posted previously, and look at the 8-pin blocks for PCI-E 8-pin and the 8-pin EPS-12V.

You can see the square and beveled pins, those are PURPOSELY in that order, so you cannot plug a 8-pin PCI-E into an 8-pin EPS, or vice-versa.

Basically, a square peg won't fit into a beveled / hex looking hole.

Unless you FORCE it in. 

 

The PCI-E 6+2 is so it can be used as either as a 75W PCI-E 6-pin connector, or a 150W PCI-E 8-pin connector.

 

8-pin EPS CPU -> GPU

THAT IS BAD.

An 8-pin EPS CPU SHOULD NOT FIT into a GPU 8-pin PCI-E.

 

It should be:

• 8-pin EPS -> 8-pin EPS on the motherboard
• 8-pin PCI-E -> 8-pin PCI-E on the graphics card.

 

 

Okay, you should be able to take it into Canada Computers and should be able to do some troubleshooting / diagnostics for you.

I don't know how much they would charge you, but Memory Express helped me verify a dead CPU for $30, a few years ago...

 

Given your keyboard symptoms, the motherboard is probably dead then.

 

But I would have Canada Computers do a full check.

If you short-circuit a motherboard, that could potentially damage the CPU and Memory sticks, too...

Since those components gets power directly from the motherboard 24-pin and 8-pin power cables.

 

Your best bet, for the most thorough check, would to be to have a second CONFIRMED working system, and swap parts in, one at a time.

Again, if you don't have a second system, or a friend who has a system and can help you test parts, take it to Canada Computers.

1. Swap your graphics card in. Does it work?
2. Swap your RAM sticks in. Does it still work?
3. If possible, swap the CPU into another compatible motherboard. Does it work?
4. Put known good working CPU + RAM + GPU into a known good working motherboard. Does it work?
5. Test the PSU with another complete system. Does that work?

 

I went to get the motherboard checked out today. The technician was able to get it to start up, so now we believe it's the power supply.