A very weird hardware problem ?

[SoUncivilized]

Hello,

First of all I will try to write the best I can, but I just spent 5h on this and english is not my mother tongue so be nice

My config:
OS a custom Windows11 ( up to date via windows update) and also tried a fresh Win11 install
Motherboard: ROG Strix B550-A Gaming
Processor : AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Socket AM4
GPU : 3070 ti

I have a problem on my computer. I made it work under heavy load for some testing recently it was doing fine and temps were good.
It started crashing thow and rebooting, but I was still not very worried.

But it finally started crashing very quickly after windows login, and now it doesn't even go to the windows login. ( Windows automatic repair loop)
I originally thought it was just my windows install that was corrupted, so I tried to reinstall windows with a bootable usb.
The bootable usb was also not booting properly most of the time, and even after a successful reinstall on my ssd, It will not boot windows.

I tried to put that same ssd with the fresh install on my laptop, and it worked fine.
I tried to remove most of my unnecessary parts, (other drives, wifi card, swap RAM sticks etc..)
didn't fix the issue, in fact booting with no drives on the usb stick was also causing failed boot sequence when the asus logo appears and then black screen and reboot.

my second thought was that is was an uefi/bios problem (even thow uefi works fine and don't crash)

So I reset the CMOS battery and flashed the last version of UEFI on my motherboard successfully.
Didn't fix the issue.

I now fear that my very recently acquired PC has a faulty motherboard or CPU.
I wanted to see if someone can give me more insight on what the problem might be.

thanks in advance  

[Radium_Angel]

Have you reset the BIOS to stock settings, and turned off XMP/DOCP?

[SoUncivilized]

18 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

Have you reset the BIOS to stock settings, and turned off XMP/DOCP?

thanks for your reply
I did :

• Default UEFI settings
• CMOS Reset
• Flashed the most recent UEFI version successfully but it didn't solve the problem

My best guess now is faulty motherboard or CPU but I want to be sure before buying a new one...

[Radium_Angel]

1 minute ago, SoUncivilized said:

thanks for your reply
I did :

• Default UEFI settings
• CMOS Reset
• Flashed the most recent UEFI version successfully but it didn't solve the problem

My best guess now is faulty motherboard or CPU but I want to be sure before buying a new one...

Intel makes a processor diag tool, but I am unaware of one for AMD. 

[Biohazard777]

1 hour ago, SoUncivilized said:

But it finally started crashing very quickly after windows login

Can you describe the crashes?
Was the picture frozen, black screen, BSOD or restart?
 

1 hour ago, SoUncivilized said:

I tried to remove most of my unnecessary parts, (other drives, wifi card, swap RAM sticks etc..)

1 hour ago, SoUncivilized said:

failed boot sequence when the asus logo appears and then black screen and reboot.

Reset CMOS again and try with just 1 RAM stick installed.
 

[SoUncivilized]

8 hours ago, Biohazard777 said:

Can you describe the crashes?
Was the picture frozen, black screen, BSOD or restart?
 

Reset CMOS again and try with just 1 RAM stick installed.
 

I tried 1 stick of ram already no change.

The crash is a black screen and then very fast a reboot. Sometimes there is an white artifact on screen like when you shutdown an old TV.

[Cyberat]

Go to Bios, set it to the fans/temps screen, read the temps, let it sit and see if it reboots.

[SoUncivilized]

1 hour ago, Cyberat said:

Go to Bios, set it to the fans/temps screen, read the temps, let it sit and see if it reboots.

Good idea thanks ! 
Just tried that, still running since 40 minutes, temps, voltage and frequency are stable, no reboot. UEFI works fine. (no drive in the PC)

temps started at 47, now at 50. frequency is 3800 (default if no boost) and ram is at the default of 2666 mhz .
Very weird no ? Especially if motherboard or CPU was faulty...

 

Voltage : 

 

+12V
12.268V

 

+5V
5.060 V

 

+3.3V

3.408 V

[SoUncivilized]

[Cyberat]

Good voltage, no reboot, but bad temps for idling.

Set CPU Fans to 50% at 40C and 100% at 60C. You should be idling between 30-35C.

Also get at least 16GB for a gaming rig, that is becoming low too, 8GB was good in 2012.

[Beerzerker]

I too believe something is getting too hot because of the crashing happening faster and faster each time.

Cover the basics first:
Check your fans in the the case and be sure all of them are working correctly as in spinning at proper speed. Check for airflow restrictions too, if yu notice anything that may impede airflow through the case take care of it. 

If it's watercooled:
Be sure the radiator isn't stopped up with stuff like dust, pet hair, debis in general... That kind of thing. Also make sure your waterflow is good too through the system and also just make sure the rad's fans are spinning as they should.
Don't forget to check the base of your block to see if you forgot to remove the plastic film many blocks will have on it when new to protect it. If you didn't remove it that will not let it cool since plastic is an insulator.

You can use monitoring software to see and even log temps as the system is being used - The temp log should reveal what's getting hot(er) and what's not.
Once you see what's getting hot you can then proceed to correct the problem.

I'll also ask how many case fans does yours have in it and details such as the case it's in will help us to determine if you'd need more than what you have already.

Maybe some of this will help.
 

[SoUncivilized]

2 hours ago, Cyberat said:

Good voltage, no reboot, but bad temps for idling.

Set CPU Fans to 50% at 40C and 100% at 60C. You should be idling between 30-35C.

Also get at least 16GB for a gaming rig, that is becoming low too, 8GB was good in 2012.

 

2 hours ago, Beerzerker said:

I too believe something is getting too hot because of the crashing happening faster and faster each time.

Cover the basics first:
Check your fans in the the case and be sure all of them are working correctly as in spinning at proper speed. Check for airflow restrictions too, if yu notice anything that may impede airflow through the case take care of it. 

If it's watercooled:
Be sure the radiator isn't stopped up with stuff like dust, pet hair, debis in general... That kind of thing. Also make sure your waterflow is good too through the system and also just make sure the rad's fans are spinning as they should.
Don't forget to check the base of your block to see if you forgot to remove the plastic film many blocks will have on it when new to protect it. If you didn't remove it that will not let it cool since plastic is an insulator.

You can use monitoring software to see and even log temps as the system is being used - The temp log should reveal what's getting hot(er) and what's not.
Once you see what's getting hot you can then proceed to correct the problem.

I'll also ask how many case fans does yours have in it and details such as the case it's in will help us to determine if you'd need more than what you have already.

Maybe some of this will help.
 

Guys my temps are ok this is from me trying to solve a booting problem, can't boot windows. 

[Beerzerker]

2 hours ago, SoUncivilized said:

 

Guys my temps are ok this is from me trying to solve a booting problem, can't boot windows. 

Going by what you posted as it's symptoms.

On 12/9/2022 at 5:54 PM, SoUncivilized said:

Hello,

First of all I will try to write the best I can, but I just spent 5h on this and english is not my mother tongue so be nice

My config:
OS a custom Windows11 ( up to date via windows update) and also tried a fresh Win11 install
Motherboard: ROG Strix B550-A Gaming
Processor : AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Socket AM4
GPU : 3070 ti

I have a problem on my computer. I made it work under heavy load for some testing recently it was doing fine and temps were good.
It started crashing thow and rebooting, but I was still not very worried.

But it finally started crashing very quickly after windows login, and now it doesn't even go to the windows login. ( Windows automatic repair loop)
I originally thought it was just my windows install that was corrupted, so I tried to reinstall windows with a bootable usb.
The bootable usb was also not booting properly most of the time, and even after a successful reinstall on my ssd, It will not boot windows.

I tried to put that same ssd with the fresh install on my laptop, and it worked fine.
I tried to remove most of my unnecessary parts, (other drives, wifi card, swap RAM sticks etc..)
didn't fix the issue, in fact booting with no drives on the usb stick was also causing failed boot sequence when the asus logo appears and then black screen and reboot.

my second thought was that is was an uefi/bios problem (even thow uefi works fine and don't crash)

So I reset the CMOS battery and flashed the last version of UEFI on my motherboard successfully.
Didn't fix the issue.

I now fear that my very recently acquired PC has a faulty motherboard or CPU.
I wanted to see if someone can give me more insight on what the problem might be.

thanks in advance  

I'm aware it's a booting problem BUT you're also describing symptoms that sound like something is getting too hot and it's rebooting because of it. 
1.472v's is ALOT of voltage to be giving that chip, esp if using a stock cooler.

I know it's got to be heating up under load based on the temp you've shown at idle for it in the BIOS and that will cause the crashing issues you described - It can even cause failed boot attempts which can corrupt an OS install too.
Temps under load are what matters, what you see in the BIOS isn't where they are running while the system in the OS, executing a program or doing some work under a load.
In fact anytime it's doing something it's subject to heating up.

BTW starting/booting an OS is one of the hardest things you can have the system to do because that's when it has to set everything up.
Yes, if the CPU for example is getting too hot during the boot process it will start failing and rebooting, and will fail to boot the OS faster each time to the point it probrably does nothing at all if you let it continue trying to boot.

If you can, manually set it's CPU voltage down in the BIOS to about 1.25 - 1.27v's and see if that doesn't make a difference, that's the very first thing I'd try and go from there.
*Note* I'm not talking about using offset or anything, straight voltage set manually is what I refer to so what you set it for it what it's gets or close to it when checked.
 

[SoUncivilized]

25 minutes ago, Beerzerker said:

Going by what you posted as it's symptoms.

I'm aware it's a booting problem BUT you're also describing symptoms that sound like something is getting too hot and it's rebooting because of it. 
1.472v's is ALOT of voltage to be giving that chip, esp if using a stock cooler.

I know it's got to be heating up under load based on the temp you've shown at idle for it in the BIOS and that will cause the crashing issues you described - It can even cause failed boot attempts which can corrupt an OS install too.
Temps under load are what matters, what you see in the BIOS isn't where they are running while the system in the OS, executing a program or doing some work under a load.
In fact anytime it's doing something it's subject to heating up.

BTW starting/booting an OS is one of the hardest things you can have the system to do because that's when it has to set everything up.
Yes, if the CPU for example is getting too hot during the boot process it will start failing and rebooting, and will fail to boot the OS faster each time to the point it probrably does nothing at all if you let it continue trying to boot.

If you can, manually set it's CPU voltage down in the BIOS to about 1.15 - 1.20v's and see if that doesn't make a difference, that's the very first thing I'd try and go from there.
*Note* I'm not talking about using offset or anything, straight voltage set manually is what I refer to so what you set it for it what it's gets or close to it when checked.
 

I'm liquid cooled with an aio cooler. The CPU voltage must be default no ? My bios is recently flashed and CMOS reset.

For testing purposes to keep the little thermal paste I have left I didn't put some back on, so the thermal paste is a litle uneven spread after the 2 times I removed the cooler to check CPU, it may explain the idle temps of 47 degres, but seems pretty good temps for a  Ryzen 7 5800X 

[SoUncivilized]

1 hour ago, Beerzerker said:

Going by what you posted as it's symptoms.

I'm aware it's a booting problem BUT you're also describing symptoms that sound like something is getting too hot and it's rebooting because of it. 
1.472v's is ALOT of voltage to be giving that chip, esp if using a stock cooler.

I know it's got to be heating up under load based on the temp you've shown at idle for it in the BIOS and that will cause the crashing issues you described - It can even cause failed boot attempts which can corrupt an OS install too.
Temps under load are what matters, what you see in the BIOS isn't where they are running while the system in the OS, executing a program or doing some work under a load.
In fact anytime it's doing something it's subject to heating up.

BTW starting/booting an OS is one of the hardest things you can have the system to do because that's when it has to set everything up.
Yes, if the CPU for example is getting too hot during the boot process it will start failing and rebooting, and will fail to boot the OS faster each time to the point it probrably does nothing at all if you let it continue trying to boot.

If you can, manually set it's CPU voltage down in the BIOS to about 1.25 - 1.27v's and see if that doesn't make a difference, that's the very first thing I'd try and go from there.
*Note* I'm not talking about using offset or anything, straight voltage set manually is what I refer to so what you set it for it what it's gets or close to it when checked.
 

I rebuilt the PC temps idle at 29 degrees same problem even with a new official windows bootable usb

[SoUncivilized]

By the way unrelated but I copied my original thread in the open AI botGPT and this was his response :

 

_____________

 

Based on the information you provided, it sounds like you are experiencing a hardware issue with your computer. The fact that you were able to successfully install and boot Windows on your SSD using a different computer suggests that the SSD and Windows installation are not the source of the problem. The other steps you took, such as resetting the CMOS battery and updating the UEFI firmware, were also good troubleshooting steps to try.

Since you have already ruled out other potential causes, the most likely remaining culprits are the motherboard or CPU. It is possible that one or both of these components are faulty, which is causing the issues you are experiencing.

One way to further diagnose the problem would be to try using a different motherboard and CPU in your computer to see if the issue persists. If the problem goes away when you use a different motherboard and CPU, then you can be confident that the issue is with the original components.

Another potential cause of the problem could be a faulty power supply unit (PSU). The PSU is responsible for providing power to the other components in your computer, and if it is not functioning properly, it can cause issues like the ones you are experiencing. You can try using a different PSU to see if it resolves the issue.

In summary, it is likely that the problem is caused by a hardware issue, either with the motherboard, CPU, or PSU. You can try using different components to further diagnose the problem and determine the specific cause. If you are unable to fix the issue yourself, it may be necessary to seek professional help or contact the manufacturer for support.

 

__________________

Kinda sick no ?

 

Try again

[Beerzerker]

It does begin to sound like a CPU or board problem here - Possibly RAM-related too if using the same sticks during all this.

Ryzen chips usually like voltage around 1.20 - 1.27v's at stock, noted you did drop it down which was good but I believe you may have gone down a bit too far. However as long as it's working it's fine but in your case it's not..... So redo that to about 1.25v's and go from there.

Do you have another chip to test the system with?
Even a lesser chip will let you know if it's a chip or board problem.
Although the drive you are currently using seems fine in another machine, I'd go ahead (If you have one spare) and use a different drive just to rule out the problem 100% of being a bad drive.
If it acts the same way again then it's confirmed the drive you are using now is OK.

Big thing is zeroing in on the actual cause and that's why I'm suggesting a few things as I am doing here.
It's no fun chasing a problem around but at the same time it's what you've gotta do sometimes and this is one of those times.
I'll keep an eye on this thread to see what goes next.

[SoUncivilized]

46 minutes ago, Beerzerker said:

It does begin to sound like a CPU or board problem here - Possibly RAM-related too if using the same sticks during all this.

Ryzen chips usually like voltage around 1.20 - 1.27v's at stock, noted you did drop it down which was good but I believe you may have gone down a bit too far. However as long as it's working it's fine but in your case it's not..... So redo that to about 1.25v's and go from there.

Do you have another chip to test the system with?
Even a lesser chip will let you know if it's a chip or board problem.
Although the drive you are currently using seems fine in another machine, I'd go ahead (If you have one spare) and use a different drive just to rule out the problem 100% of being a bad drive.
If it acts the same way again then it's confirmed the drive you are using now is OK.

Big thing is zeroing in on the actual cause and that's why I'm suggesting a few things as I am doing here.
It's no fun chasing a problem around but at the same time it's what you've gotta do sometimes and this is one of those times.
I'll keep an eye on this thread to see what goes next.

Drive is good as i test different one. And even usb stickS don't boot.

I tested my two sticks on ram independently. ( thats why i have 8g on pic) 

I order a new motherboard. If it doesn't solve the issue, I will order new PSU and CPU.

 

 

 

[Cyberat]

Oh, boy we have a OC/UC, you don't build AROUND the temps, you set stock bus & voltage. You set fans to manage temps.

I'll take those parts if you don't want them. You want a higher stock speed get a better cpu, AMD is still cheaper than intel.

[SoUncivilized]

2 hours ago, Cyberat said:

Oh, boy we have a OC/UC, you don't build AROUND the temps, you set stock bus & voltage. You set fans to manage temps.

I'll take those parts if you don't want them. You want a higher stock speed get a better cpu, AMD is still cheaper than intel.

There is no OC or UC those are bios default, one is just with boost enable and other disabled.

Better CPU ? Dude I have an AMD Ryzen 7 5800X ...

 

[Beerzerker]

14 hours ago, SoUncivilized said:

Drive is good as i test different one. And even usb stickS don't boot.

I tested my two sticks on ram independently. ( thats why i have 8g on pic) 

I order a new motherboard. If it doesn't solve the issue, I will order new PSU and CPU.

 

 

 

I hope that fixes it for you, let us know what happens.

[Cyberat]

On better CPU, yes there is the AMD Ryzen 9 series.

[SoUncivilized]

7 hours ago, Cyberat said:

On better CPU, yes there is the AMD Ryzen 9 series.

More cores but not really better speads. Not a content creator I don't use softwares that need that much cores.

[Cyberat]

Stock Single Core speed of Ryzen 9s are higher.

[SoUncivilized]

On 12/16/2022 at 7:38 AM, Cyberat said:

Stock Single Core speed of Ryzen 9s are higher.

Perfomance / price is not intersting.

 

 

Replaced motherbaord, didn't solve the problem