Less power!

[PaulCam]

I want to consume less and less power on a daily basis.  Money, environment, price hikes etc.

 

Low power + gaming don't really play out and my current build (5800X,3080) pulls 550W in full flow.  I'm not worried about that however, this is not the power I want to spend less on.  It's the stuff that runs 16-24 hours a day I want to save power on.

 

I put a monitor on my main power bus in the office where 90% if the IT gubbins lives.  It's 24 hour load is only around 70W.  Big benefit there was replacing the exe gaming PC server pulling 105W with a Dell eWaste Optiplex.  That 70W includes 5 spinning HDDs, a Linksys Wifi router and an 8 port switch on top of the Optiplex.  Oh, AND the work laptop sipping power on USB-C probably in active sleep overnight, but it only pulls 12W with the lid closed.

 

However, when I get into the office in the morning, that jumps to 170W or more in total.  Simply due to the gaming PC being my personal desktop, runs at 100-120W on desktop.  That's it's lowest idle.

 

That's too much, if I'm not gaming on it.  This got me to thinking about a dual system type setup.  Say, for example a little Dell Micro optiplex as a desktop with some fancy, easy way to boot and switch straight onto the gaming desktop without much fuss.  Dropping back to the microbox for desktop work.  I mean the Dell Elitebook Pro from work seems to perform perfectly fine for desktop use on only 17W with the screen on.  I'm burning 110W 16 hours a day on an idle gaming rig.

 

The other idea that crops up is using a VM host in addition to the micro-client.  To allow me to switch easily between different VMs, one for dev, one for pron, you know.

 

So, options:

Lower the idle power the gaming PC.

- I could see me dropping that by 30% with a heavy undervolt, but it would be tricky to switch back and forth without running Ryzen master profiles and Afterburner profiles.  It's not enough.

 

Get a S/H microdesktop cheap and an active KVM switch, just keep the gaming PC OFF much more often.

 

Go fully micro-client and VM host arch.

 

Ideas?

 

 

Asides, some small incremental steps are in progress to run as much, if not all of the "12V wall wart" and USB powered devices off off grid solar.  They are low hanging fruit, won't save the planet, but it's fun.

[Kisai]

2 minutes ago, PaulCam said:

 

 

However, when I get into the office in the morning, that jumps to 170W or more in total.  Simply due to the gaming PC being my personal desktop, runs at 100-120W on desktop.  That's it's lowest idle.

 

 

I'm watching one twitch TV stream right now and my pc is at 320w from the UPS.

 

Honestly, trying to save money, is just not going to happen. Your best option is either:

a) Buy a PC that fits the business use case better. You will never recover the costs if you do. example, my power bill is between $30 and $40 which includes keeping the lights on all day and a refrigerator plugged in. If I turn the lights off, and stick to the laptop when not gaming, at most I'll save $10/mo. It would take 10 years to recover that investment.

b) aggressively use the power management features on the PC you have. 

 

Unless your energy costs extremely high, you will not save much money from a single gaming PC to justify replacing it "to save money", wait until you need an upgrade, and then replace it.

[Sat1600]

170w x 8hrs a day x 365 days a year =496.4kwh a year. 

 

496.4 x $0.20/kwh = $99.28 a year. 

 

Are you sure there aren't better places to look for savings?

[PaulCam]

28.23p / kwh

 

Regardless of cost, I just don't like burning energy when I'm not getting the advantage from it. If I can get what I need from 100W, why burn 200W?

[YoungBlade]

I'd start with an undervolt and see what that does. To reduce load power consumption with Ryzen and RTX 3000 series, you'll need to also pull back the power limit in conjunction with the undervolt - otherwise the card will use the extra power headroom afforded by the undervolt due to their boosting algorithms. For Ryzen, you'll need to reduce the PPT, TDC, and EDC values after you dial in the undervolt. For the 3080, you can use Afterburner for this, and set it to run at Windows startup - if you do this, make sure the undervolt is stable before setting it to run at startup. You can dial in the proper power limit by using benchmarks like Cinebench, Heaven, or in-game benchmarks to ensure that you are still getting stock performance levels after the power limit reduction.

 

Also, what do you mean by "idle?" Are you leaving the computer on when you aren't using it, or do you mean how much power it draws when you are using it for tasks other than gaming? If you want to save power, and your computer is not actively being used, the best solution is to turn it off. Assuming it has an SSD, it's not like your boot time is going to be more than 20 seconds or so.

 

If by "idle" you are referring to doing basic tasks in Windows, but not gaming, then if your monitor is a high refresh rate one, try running it at a lower refresh rate when not gaming. This will reduce the power consumption from the monitor and your graphics card will more often be able to enter its idle state. If your monitor is 144Hz+, it's possible that more often than not, the 3080 is running at its base clockspeed when in Windows to keep up with the monitor's refresh rate.

[TECHNOMANCER303]

1 hour ago, PaulCam said:

I want to consume less and less power on a daily basis.  Money, environment, price hikes etc.

 

Low power + gaming don't really play out and my current build (5800X,3080) pulls 550W in full flow.  I'm not worried about that however, this is not the power I want to spend less on.  It's the stuff that runs 16-24 hours a day I want to save power on.

 

I put a monitor on my main power bus in the office where 90% if the IT gubbins lives.  It's 24 hour load is only around 70W.  Big benefit there was replacing the exe gaming PC server pulling 105W with a Dell eWaste Optiplex.  That 70W includes 5 spinning HDDs, a Linksys Wifi router and an 8 port switch on top of the Optiplex.  Oh, AND the work laptop sipping power on USB-C probably in active sleep overnight, but it only pulls 12W with the lid closed.

 

However, when I get into the office in the morning, that jumps to 170W or more in total.  Simply due to the gaming PC being my personal desktop, runs at 100-120W on desktop.  That's it's lowest idle.

 

That's too much, if I'm not gaming on it.  This got me to thinking about a dual system type setup.  Say, for example a little Dell Micro optiplex as a desktop with some fancy, easy way to boot and switch straight onto the gaming desktop without much fuss.  Dropping back to the microbox for desktop work.  I mean the Dell Elitebook Pro from work seems to perform perfectly fine for desktop use on only 17W with the screen on.  I'm burning 110W 16 hours a day on an idle gaming rig.

 

The other idea that crops up is using a VM host in addition to the micro-client.  To allow me to switch easily between different VMs, one for dev, one for pron, you know.

 

So, options:

Lower the idle power the gaming PC.

- I could see me dropping that by 30% with a heavy undervolt, but it would be tricky to switch back and forth without running Ryzen master profiles and Afterburner profiles.  It's not enough.

 

Get a S/H microdesktop cheap and an active KVM switch, just keep the gaming PC OFF much more often.

 

Go fully micro-client and VM host arch.

 

Ideas?

 

 

Asides, some small incremental steps are in progress to run as much, if not all of the "12V wall wart" and USB powered devices off off grid solar.  They are low hanging fruit, won't save the planet, but it's fun.

Well I assume you wont switch now (too deep) but  laptop is probably best

[Imbadatnames]

3 hours ago, PaulCam said:

I want to consume less and less power on a daily basis.  Money, environment, price hikes etc.

 

Low power + gaming don't really play out and my current build (5800X,3080) pulls 550W in full flow.  I'm not worried about that however, this is not the power I want to spend less on.  It's the stuff that runs 16-24 hours a day I want to save power on.

 

I put a monitor on my main power bus in the office where 90% if the IT gubbins lives.  It's 24 hour load is only around 70W.  Big benefit there was replacing the exe gaming PC server pulling 105W with a Dell eWaste Optiplex.  That 70W includes 5 spinning HDDs, a Linksys Wifi router and an 8 port switch on top of the Optiplex.  Oh, AND the work laptop sipping power on USB-C probably in active sleep overnight, but it only pulls 12W with the lid closed.

 

However, when I get into the office in the morning, that jumps to 170W or more in total.  Simply due to the gaming PC being my personal desktop, runs at 100-120W on desktop.  That's it's lowest idle.

 

That's too much, if I'm not gaming on it.  This got me to thinking about a dual system type setup.  Say, for example a little Dell Micro optiplex as a desktop with some fancy, easy way to boot and switch straight onto the gaming desktop without much fuss.  Dropping back to the microbox for desktop work.  I mean the Dell Elitebook Pro from work seems to perform perfectly fine for desktop use on only 17W with the screen on.  I'm burning 110W 16 hours a day on an idle gaming rig.

 

The other idea that crops up is using a VM host in addition to the micro-client.  To allow me to switch easily between different VMs, one for dev, one for pron, you know.

 

So, options:

Lower the idle power the gaming PC.

- I could see me dropping that by 30% with a heavy undervolt, but it would be tricky to switch back and forth without running Ryzen master profiles and Afterburner profiles.  It's not enough.

 

Get a S/H microdesktop cheap and an active KVM switch, just keep the gaming PC OFF much more often.

 

Go fully micro-client and VM host arch.

 

Ideas?

 

 

Asides, some small incremental steps are in progress to run as much, if not all of the "12V wall wart" and USB powered devices off off grid solar.  They are low hanging fruit, won't save the planet, but it's fun.

Couldn’t you just get a low power PC, turn the gaming PC on like 5 minutes before you swap over and just… change the monitor input? 
 

Also will vouch for a M1 Mac mini for a low power system or a MacBook Air if you want something portable you can just unplug from a monitor and take with you. Both use around 30-35W at full load and around 10 doing normal work. Both are expensive machines though you’re getting the best value ultra book on the market with the laptop. 

[Imbadatnames]

10 minutes ago, Caroline said:

Less than 2 medium light bulbs at the end of the day.

If you want to save more you should get a regular laptop (not a "gaming" one) or M1 Mac that you'd use only for office stuff like... text, spreadsheets, Skype or whatever office guys use which I reckon doesn't requires loads of processing power and a high end GPU, or, you know, use the one you already have. Undervolt helps as well so do it, FROM THE BIOS, avoid using software for that kind of stuff. Use afterburner for the card.

 

You should also start turning fully off or unplugging vampire and unused devices and before going to bed, things like TV if you have one, anything left in standby mode, something I've seen in smartphone users houses is that they ALWAYS leave chargers plugged in, if you do that don't be lazy and unplug them when not in use, unless you use the internet while you're sleeping or leave your PC on downloading stuff kill the router(s) and other network equipment, same for the laptop, turn it OFF instead of leaving it in standby mode.

 

I always turn off my things when I'm not using them, in my case that's the modem and UPS where my computer is, the biggest power siphon at home is our fridge and also the one thing we can't unplug.

What bulbs are you using? Mine are under 10W

 

I did recommend the M1 too though. 

[Sprawlie]

8 hours ago, PaulCam said:

28.23p / kwh

 

Regardless of cost, I just don't like burning energy when I'm not getting the advantage from it. If I can get what I need from 100W, why burn 200W?

One thing you can do to offset, is just turn it off when you're not using it. This will help lower it. you said it was using 70w when not actively being used, so, why not just shut it off?

 

It won't help with the load when active, but will lower the average load.

[PaulCam]

19 hours ago, Caroline said:

You should also start turning fully off or unplugging vampire and unused devices and before going to bed, things like TV if you have one, anything left in standby mode,

I tend to leave a lot of things in standby.  I've done the numbers and at 1-3W it's much better to spend your time on larger consumption items.

 

That said, a neat trick I use in the office.

 

I have 2 sockets.  Each has a chain of 4 gang extensions.  On one I put things I want on 24/7 and on the other I put things I don't care if they switch off or not.  The later has a switch by the door.  When I done in the office I shutdown the PC, hit that button and leave.  It only leaves the networking gear and the server running.  Also the gaming PC if it's on.

 

I call them essential and non-essential buses.  Easy as in the UK all our extensions and plugs and fused and the outlets are switched.

[cmndr]

On 6/14/2022 at 12:01 PM, Caroline said:

Less than 2 medium light bulbs at the end of the day.

Yes and no.

2 LED lightbulbs use 15-20W .

As touched on by others, underclock, undervolt.

[DANK_AS_gay]

7 hours ago, PaulCam said:

I have 2 sockets.  Each has a chain of 4 gang extensions.

However, daisy chaining is clearly prohibited by the Fire Code. For compliance, each power strip should be plugged into a permanently installed outlet.

Section 11.1 of NFPA 1 provides provisions for basic electrical safety.

https://www.nfpa.org/news-and-research/publications-and-media/blogs-landing-page/nfpa-today/blog-posts/2020/01/24/nfpa-1-fundamental-electrical-safety-requirements-in-the-fire-code#:~:text=However%2C daisy chaining is clearly,provisions for basic electrical safety.

 

If you get 2 really nice power strips with proper grounding and a lot of plugs, that'd be safer than 4 power strips chained together

[Mihle]

If you want to save power, you would save more on lowering it on your homes heating/cooling power use, by letting your home become colder in winter or warmer in summer. Or if you are fine with higher up front cost when it comes to money, improving the insulation or changing windows if your home is older and not done already. Changing electrical heating for a heat pump is also an option.

 

Tho, if it's cold outside and you have only straight electrical heating, unless you open window, your other heating would work less as power that computer uses basically all end up as heat.

 

You would also save more by changing all your lights to LED from old bulbs I'd you haven't already, at least when it's warm outside (or you have heat pump for example when it's cold outside)

[PaulCam]

16 hours ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

Section 11.1 of NFPA 1 provides provisions for basic electrical safety.

https://www.nfpa.org/news-and-research/publications-and-media/blogs-landing-page/nfpa-today/blog-posts/2020/01/24/nfpa-1-fundamental-electrical-safety-requirements-in-the-fire-code#:~:text=However%2C daisy chaining is clearly,provisions for basic electrical safety.

 

If you get 2 really nice power strips with proper grounding and a lot of plugs, that'd be safer than 4 power strips chained together

Bear in mind that I am not in North America.  Thankfully.  I don't think I would daisy chain your extensions either!

 

I'm in the UK.  Our plug mains are "weird" and have history.  They are usually "ring main" running 2.5m2 twin+e.  Backed by a 30 amp breaker and supply all the plugs on one floor, or the entire house.  The ring means power comes both ways and each and every plug is supplied with a possible today of 30 amps.  Enough to set more appliances' cable on fire in a fault.  So to address this, ALL plugs are fused.  Yes, that means that every single device, be it a hair dryer, PC, laptop or 8 way extension cord has a fuse by law.  It can be 1Amp, 3Amp, 5Amp, 10Amp, or 13Amp, but no more.

So these 4 gang extensions I am using and each fused at 13 amps.  Each has 13 amp rated cable.  Every plug/device connected to them also has a fuse.

Additionally, compare to most of North America, my whole plug circuit is protected by a (you call them GFCI?) an RCD trip, and again the whole house is protected by a less sensitive RCD to protect against earthing faults, not necessarily to protect people.

 

I'm on 240V, usually around 248V due to folks with solar panels in the area.  That means all my gear is pulling half the amps it would in NA.

 

So it's perfectly safe.  What are not safe to stack are the double or triple plug adapters.  Those, here must have fuses, surprise, however stacking them leads to pyshical problems, like sag and janky connections which, without an Arc Fault protector (now becoming standard in new builds), it will go unnoticed and could lead to fire.

A random example:
https://www.kenable.co.uk/en/home-cctv/power-supplies-distribution/mains-extensions-power-strips/9317-4-gang-individually-switched-uk-mains-power-extension-strip-2m-cable-009317-5015972174463.html

 

[PaulCam]

To do similar in North America, you would probably be better off running conduit round the room, taking some 2.5m off a outlet circuit, but adding a fused isolator.  That way you can be sure the cabling will survive a fault, as the fuse in the isolator is going to protect that cable.

Then you can pepper it with outlets all you want. 

Just don't go connecting anything that's going to pull more than, say 15A or it will blow that fuse.  Fine for PCs, electronics, just don't plug in a space heater or a hairdryer!