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Are router recomendations a thing?

emosun

Is it dumb to ask for a router recomendation? becuase i was about to just go to bestbuy and get literally anything off the shelf that was gigabit instead of 10/100. All I really want is something that is gigabit and won't break

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9 minutes ago, emosun said:

Is it dumb to ask for a router recomendation? becuase i was about to just go to bestbuy and get literally anything off the shelf that was gigabit instead of 10/100. All I really want is something that is gigabit and won't break

You could look into ASUS routers. I've heard ASUS makes very good ones. 

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I'm a Linksys fanboy for no actual reason other than they make the Velop AX4200 which is a Wifi 6 router that's a white rectangle tower and I love it. 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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12 minutes ago, emosun said:

Is it dumb to ask for a router recomendation? becuase i was about to just go to bestbuy and get literally anything off the shelf that was gigabit instead of 10/100. All I really want is something that is gigabit and won't break

Which type of the Internet connectionare you using?

 

Would you like the new router to replace the old or would you "extend" the old, maybe use the old one as the "modem" (like in bridge modem)?

 

Do you need features like bufferbloat compensation (smart queue management, speed limiting, routing algorithms)?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
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1 minute ago, DrMacintosh said:

 

3 minutes ago, LebowskiBuschemi said:

 

So from the sounds of it it kinda doesn't matter what I pick

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Just now, emosun said:

So from the sounds of it it kinda doesn't matter what I pick

Just don't go for the no-name brand ones. Some of them don't even have a power button. 

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2 minutes ago, emosun said:

So from the sounds of it it kinda doesn't matter what I pick

Exactly. Big brands, like Asus, Gigabyte, Linksys, Netgear. TP-Link all make great stuff. Get something with Wifi 6 and you'll have a great network. 6E is better but also a lot more expensive. 

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1 minute ago, 191x7 said:

Which type of the Internet connectionare you using?

I'm just doing a large file transfer from one hard drive to another over the network and 10/100 is too slow , doesn;t even need internet

2 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Would you like the new router to replace the old or would you "extend" the old, maybe use the old one as the "modem" (like in bridge modem)?

I guess it could replace the old , i hardly ever do anything via network though and don;t really need it beyond this one file transfer lol

3 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Do you need features like bufferbloat compensation (smart queue management, speed limiting, routing algorithms)?

no it just needs to not break. I know most components these days are extremely poor quality so anything that isn;t just ewaste would be cool.

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2 minutes ago, DrMacintosh said:

Get something with Wifi 6 and you'll have a great network. 6E is better but also a lot more expensive. 

well it's kinda better if the wifi sucks as then my neighbors won't pick it up

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4 minutes ago, LebowskiBuschemi said:

Just don't go for the no-name brand ones. Some of them don't even have a power button. 

does it need a power button?

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3 minutes ago, emosun said:

does it need a power button?

It just feels weird of having to pull out the cable whenever you want to restart the damn thing.

 

 

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10 minutes ago, LebowskiBuschemi said:

It just feels weird of having to pull out the cable whenever you want to restart the damn thing.

well on my modem it feels weird pushing the power button and literally nothing at all happens lol

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21 minutes ago, emosun said:

I'm just doing a large file transfer from one hard drive to another over the network and 10/100 is too slow , doesn;t even need internet

I guess it could replace the old , i hardly ever do anything via network though and don;t really need it beyond this one file transfer lol

no it just needs to not break. I know most components these days are extremely poor quality so anything that isn;t just ewaste would be cool.

Then you don't need a router, you need a regular switch, a Gigabit one.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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4 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Then you don't need a router, you need a regular switch, a Gigabit one.

did you have one in mind? also what does a router even do then becuase I assumed it was just a switch with some wireless crap on it occasionally

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8 minutes ago, emosun said:

did you have one in mind? also what does a router even do then becuase I assumed it was just a switch with some wireless crap on it occasionally

A switch enables the communication between the devices connected to it.

A router routes between different networks or switches.

https://www.javatpoint.com/switch-vs-router

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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3 hours ago, emosun said:

did you have one in mind? also what does a router even do then becuase I assumed it was just a switch with some wireless crap on it occasionally

For cheap unmanaged Gigabit switches, generally even the cheap random brands are fine, they're basically the same internally anyway with everything done in off-the-shelf chips, nothing all that different between them, no firmware to worry about, etc.

Routers are far more complicated and thus why going cheap is a bad idea as they rely on the hardware being decent, software being written well, regular security fixes, etc.  They're generally a semi-managed switch chip + WiFi + low power computer.

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz)
WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz) Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~800Mbit down, 115Mbit up)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

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What most people refer to as a Router today are an all in one combination of a switch, firewall, wifi access point and router.

 

I haven't seen an all in one using a 10/100 Switch in over a decade. If its using such a slow switch its likely no faster than N class wifi and should be chucked.

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