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So I have a Ryzen 7 3700x and it averages 90-95 degrees.  (HWMonitor used) 

image.png.6b87520941e89ebf79e04b5b90430d12.pngimage.png.89e658acff41a72e65206a32ff7ebcd7.png

My CPU is most of the time at 90-100% usage, so is it normal for these temperatures? 
I have a prebuilt pc so could it be the fans that came with it (3 front, 1 back) that are lacking? It also uses a stock fan . How much of a difference would it make if I were to upgrade my fans to ql120s (3 front, 2 top, 1 back) along with a 240mm AIO (Elite Capellix) mounted to the top of the case?

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Those temps are extremely high for a 3700x. how much does the temps drop if you just open the side case panel? My 3700x in my capture rig only ever gets up into the 70s with a Noctua NH-U12S on it. 

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Just now, Skiiwee29 said:

Those temps are extremely high for a 3700x. how much does the temps drop if you just open the side case panel? My 3700x in my capture rig only ever gets up into the 70s with a Noctua NH-U12S on it. 

I haven't tried that yet but ill give it a shot. How long should I leave it open for to get proper numbers? 

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Just now, Lusss said:

I haven't tried that yet but ill give it a shot. How long should I leave it open for to get proper numbers? 

start up whatever you do to get your CPU to 95-100c like you have in the picture and then remove it and wait 5-10 minutes and see how much of a drop you get. 

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First thing you should do would be to actually check the CPU cooler, the heatsink.

Basically make sure it's properly mounted, that the heatsink is screwed down properly (maybe during shipping one of the screws/mounting points broke or got loose and there's not enough pressure on one corner of the cooler).

Make sure the heatsink isn't clogged with dust, make sure the fan blowing air down onto the CPU isn't covered by cables, or running at low rpm due to cables rubbing against it or due to obstructions.

If you're not afraid to do it, I would even remove the cooler completely and change the thermal paste ... not because the thermal paste would be bad, but to check if there's not some plastic sticker on the CPU or the cooler (maybe there was a plastic foil to keep the pre-applied paste fresh and the person installing the cooler didn't remove that foil). Changing the thermal paste would be a bonus, sort of "well, as long as I remove the cooler, might as well freshen up the thermal paste"

 

Oh,,, and read the text again, you say you have an AIO... don't rule out the actual pump dying... while the computer runs, put your fingers on top of the part that sits on top of cpu... is it vibrating? Do you hear noise from it? Is that part receiving power (12v) to spin and push the water around through the radiator, where it would be cooled by the fans?

If the pump doesn't move water in the tubes, then that could explain the hot temperatures and the CPU just sits there throttling, reducing its frequencies to stay within temperature.

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14 minutes ago, Lusss said:

So I have a Ryzen 7 3700x and it averages 90-95 degrees.  (HWMonitor used) 

image.png.6b87520941e89ebf79e04b5b90430d12.pngimage.png.89e658acff41a72e65206a32ff7ebcd7.png

My CPU is most of the time at 90-100% usage, so is it normal for these temperatures? 
I have a prebuilt pc so could it be the fans that came with it (3 front, 1 back) that are lacking? It also uses a stock fan . How much of a difference would it make if I were to upgrade my fans to ql120s (3 front, 2 top, 1 back) along with a 240mm AIO (Elite Capellix) mounted to the top of the case?

1st - why is it always 90-100% usage?

2nd - have you clčeaned the system and replaced the thermal paste recently?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
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3 minutes ago, mariushm said:

First thing you should do would be to actually check the CPU cooler, the heatsink.

Basically make sure it's properly mounted, that the heatsink is screwed down properly (maybe during shipping one of the screws/mounting points broke or got loose and there's not enough pressure on one corner of the cooler).

Make sure the heatsink isn't clogged with dust, make sure the fan blowing air down onto the CPU isn't covered by cables, or running at low rpm due to cables rubbing against it or due to obstructions.

If you're not afraid to do it, I would even remove the cooler completely and change the thermal paste ... not because the thermal paste would be bad, but to check if there's not some plastic sticker on the CPU or the cooler (maybe there was a plastic foil to keep the pre-applied paste fresh and the person installing the cooler didn't remove that foil). Changing the thermal paste would be a bonus, sort of "well, as long as I remove the cooler, might as well freshen up the thermal paste"

 

Oh,,, and read the text again, you say you have an AIO... don't rule out the actual pump dying... while the computer runs, put your fingers on top of the part that sits on top of cpu... is it vibrating? Do you hear noise from it? Is that part receiving power (12v) to spin and push the water around through the radiator, where it would be cooled by the fans?

If the pump doesn't move water in the tubes, then that could explain the hot temperatures and the CPU just sits there throttling, reducing its frequencies to stay within temperature.

sorry I think I worded it wrong. I meant the part where I mentioned AIO as like what if I was to upgrade to those ql120 fans and get an aio because atm I got a stock cooler for the cpu. 

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1 hour ago, 191x7 said:

1st - why is it always 90-100% usage?

2nd - have you clčeaned the system and replaced the thermal paste recently?

I run multiple windows on a game that uses CPU power that's why my CPU is at 90-100% usage.


I haven't cleaned the system and replaced the thermal paste yet.

Back in December was my last clean up (Dust Only). I never applied thermal paste.
I bought the pc from the store back in 04/28/2021. I didn't think about the thermal paste.

 

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58 minutes ago, Lusss said:

I have a prebuilt pc so could it be the fans that came with it (3 front, 1 back) that are lacking? It also uses a stock fan .

What's the pre-built system you have? What's the case like - is the front a solid panel? What are the rest of the temperatures across your motherboard?

 

Clear photos of your case would help (take the side panel off).

 

Your CPU fan is spinning pretty fast, yet the temps are still high. You may have a few issues there.

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41 minutes ago, Lusss said:

sorry I think I worded it wrong. I meant the part where I mentioned AIO as like what if I was to upgrade to those ql120 fans and get an aio because atm I got a stock cooler for the cpu. 

You wouldn't need to upgrade right to a 240mm radiator to get good temps. What prebuilt is this? Chances are it has the crappiest little heat sink ever. 

 

You could consider cheap tower coolers like a thermalright assassin spirit, or even a wraith spire which is intended to cool a Ryzen 7 properly, as an upgrade.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

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Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

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41 minutes ago, Ralfi said:

What's the pre-built system you have? What's the case like - is the front a solid panel? What are the rest of the temperatures across your motherboard?

 

Clear photos of your case would help (take the side panel off).

 

Your CPU fan is spinning pretty fast, yet the temps are still high. You may have a few issues there.

Skytech Chronos 3070.
Mesh front panel

and yeah I gotta do some cleaning lol

IMG_8429.jpgIMG_8428.jpgIMG_8424.jpgIMG_8434.jpgIMG_8436.jpgIMG_8438.jpg

IMG_8433.jpgIMG_8430.jpg

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43 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

You wouldn't need to upgrade right to a 240mm radiator to get good temps. What prebuilt is this? Chances are it has the crappiest little heat sink ever. 

 

You could consider cheap tower coolers like a thermalright assassin spirit, or even a wraith spire which is intended to cool a Ryzen 7 properly, as an upgrade.

Skytech Chronos 3070 

The pictures are above 

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52 minutes ago, Lusss said:

Skytech Chronos 3070 

The pictures are above 

That looks like a super basic (and small) cooler master tower cooler.

 

Nothing against cooler master, in fact I think they're the OEM for AMD's stock coolers. This cooler looks quite a lot like a wraith stealth. Unfortunately, the wraith stealth is packaged with lower TDP CPUs and it's not really suitable for a Ryzen 7 which is why I recommended the wraith spire.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Skytech skimped on the cooler since the Wraith Prism stock cooler is considerably better and is what's normally bundled with the 3700x.

If you want to improve temps, a new CPU cooler would make a much more dramatic difference than replacing case fans.

Where are you shopping / located? Budget? Do you know how much clearance is available between the socket and side panel for the CPU cooler?

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

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I'm using Scythe Fuma 2 on my 5800x, but it's a bit overkill for your 65w TDP cpu : https://www.amazon.com/Rev-B-Cooler-LGA1700-LGA1151-Towers/dp/B09NZGH4RD/

It's $66 on Amazon.

 

The Mugen 5 model is around $10 cheaper ($57 on Amazon) and would also be fine for your needs:  https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Cooler-Single-LGA1700-LGA1151/dp/B09S3Y3BKZ

 

They're "standard" height, 154-155mm tall, usually cases at least around 160-170 mm of space.

 

There's also a Noctua cooler at $50 : https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-Performance-Cooler-redux-1700/dp/B08WPDD6GD/

It's a bit taller though at 158mm and has less heatpipes but your 65w TDP cpu should be cooled ok with it, though if you decide to upgrade to a 105w-125w TDP cpu later... it may struggle a bit.

 

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1 hour ago, WoodenMarker said:

Skytech skimped on the cooler since the Wraith Prism stock cooler is considerably better and is what's normally bundled with the 3700x.

If you want to improve temps, a new CPU cooler would make a much more dramatic difference than replacing case fans.

Where are you shopping / located? Budget? Do you know how much clearance is available between the socket and side panel for the CPU cooler?

Im from Canada, max I would go is 250$
From socket to side glass panel it's around 16-17cm of clearance available 
Top mount is around 28cm in length and 14cm in width.

What would be better? an AIO or Air Cooler?  

 

 

 

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40 minutes ago, mariushm said:

I'm using Scythe Fuma 2 on my 5800x, but it's a bit overkill for your 65w TDP cpu : https://www.amazon.com/Rev-B-Cooler-LGA1700-LGA1151-Towers/dp/B09NZGH4RD/

It's $66 on Amazon.

 

The Mugen 5 model is around $10 cheaper ($57 on Amazon) and would also be fine for your needs:  https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Cooler-Single-LGA1700-LGA1151/dp/B09S3Y3BKZ

 

They're "standard" height, 154-155mm tall, usually cases at least around 160-170 mm of space.

 

There's also a Noctua cooler at $50 : https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-Performance-Cooler-redux-1700/dp/B08WPDD6GD/

It's a bit taller though at 158mm and has less heatpipes but your 65w TDP cpu should be cooled ok with it, though if you decide to upgrade to a 105w-125w TDP cpu later... it may struggle a bit.

 

Yes I do plan on upgrading later to a 105w cpu so in that case what would be

a good CPU cooler? Also what's better an AIO or Air cooler ?

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7 minutes ago, Lusss said:

Yes I do plan on upgrading later to a 105w cpu so in that case what would be

a good CPU cooler? Also what's better an AIO or Air cooler ?

Not only they for the looks but aren't they also better at providing greater airflow compared to the case fans that came with the prebuilt?

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In theory a water cooler is better,  but in my opinion it's less reliable and it's not worth the extra price... you want to go with 2 x 120 at minimum, not the single fan / 120/140 mm radiator coolers, and those start at around $65... more than the suggested coolers.

 

If the pump breaks in the water cooler, there's only a tiny amount of heatsink on top of the cpu, so the cpu's temperature will go to the roof fast.  If that happens, you're screwed, you have to buy another water cooler or a regular cooler.

You're also dealing with water and tubes, and risk of the cooler having some impurities in the water or corrosion or some other issues... for example see below recalls for clogging (from march and may this year):

MSI Recalls MAG CoreLiquid 240R, 360R AiO Coolers Due to Sediment Build-Up | Tom's Hardware

Enermax Recalls Clogged Liqmax III Liquid CPU Coolers in Korea | Tom's Hardware

 

A regular cooler has A LOT of metal on top of the cpu which absorbs heat and spreads it, you have base heatsink, the heatpipes, and all the fins connected to the heatpipes, so even with the fan not working, the cooler will still work and will cool the cpu to some degree.

A lot of motherboards will actually stop the fan (or give you the option to stop) when computer's idle, when you're just typing a document, or when watching a movie on Youtube.. because the heatsink alone would be able to keep the cpu at less than 60c. 

You can also easily replace the fan if it breaks or starts making noises ...

 

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Clean it. It's dirty. And repaste.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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1 hour ago, Lusss said:

Im from Canada, max I would go is 250$
From socket to side glass panel it's around 16-17cm of clearance available 
Top mount is around 28cm in length and 14cm in width.

What would be better? an AIO or Air Cooler?  

 

 

 

That cpu and its quite pointless to spend much.

 

Canadian cooler pricings are crazy so Deepcool Gammaxx 400s or Scythe Fuma 2 rev b if after premium one would be my choices. Maybe an Arctic p12 pwm pst 5-pack too for the case if you really want better cooling. Those cheap led fans are usually garbage.

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1 hour ago, Lusss said:

Im from Canada, max I would go is 250$
From socket to side glass panel it's around 16-17cm of clearance available 
Top mount is around 28cm in length and 14cm in width.

What would be better? an AIO or Air Cooler?  

The Gammaxx 400 would be a decent upgrade. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/x2JmP6/deepcool-gammaxx-400-v2-645-cfm-cpu-cooler-dp-mch4-gmx400v2-bl

It depends on your priorities. An air cooler is easier and a better value. An AIO can perform better but the marginal gains in performance might not be worth the extra cost. 

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

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