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Overclocking the 8320 multiplier strange issue

Go to solution Solved by T.Vengeance,

I was really hoping that it wasn't the VRMs. I'd recommend RMAing your board, there is a sticker on the box which includes the serial number for your board, if this sticker is undamaged then you can still RMA your board.

Top-down CPU coolers like the Notcua NH-C14 will also help with the VRM cooling.

Update 2:

 

Did what I said before about reorienting the cpu cooler to not blow warm air over the VRMs and have the rear fan become intake fans. It helped abit but the temps were still in the 100s. 

 

So I did some research and found out that prime95 does something so that the OS doesn't cut off the floating point calculations and that really overtaxes the CPU, something that'll never happen in real world scenarios (at the time HWinfo64 is showing that the VRMs are pushing 140amps). That in mind, I decided to switch to AIDA64 for stress testing and now it's all good :D The VRM temps max out at 83C and are pushing on avg 98amps while the CPU is at 100%, and not throttling. So you can still recommend the 990FXA-UD3 I guess, as long as they don't stress test with prime95.

Currently have a stable 4.4Ghz overclock at 1.356V under load. But something strange happens and while it's rare (1/10 restarts), I want to know if others had this issue. I have the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 Rev.4.0. When I start to run prime95, the voltage drops from 1.368 to 1.356 normally. On the off chance, it'll drop to 1.344 at the beginning and that's when my 8320 will have multiplier issues. 10 minutes into the stress test, the multiplier will drop down to 7 for a few seconds then back to 22. I check my temps and they're running fine under load...So I'm not sure what's the issue. This coupled with the fact that I can't really replicated it unless I do multiple restarts until it happens kind of worries me.
 
Important updated posts in this thread that'll eliminate some possible issues:
 
1.

I just checked my bios, it shows 3.3v 5v and 12v. I'm inclined to think HWmonitor doesn't give the right readings for this mobo

 
(despite it not reporting the right voltages, it's irrelevant to the current problem) 

2. Voltage drop isn't an issue here because even if I increase the voltage so that the voltage after dropping is equal to the max voltage before the increase, the problem still happens
 
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You need to enable load line calibration

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I do hope thoose  voltage readings are wrong or you have serious PSU issues.

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You need to enable load line calibration

I set the LLC to medium.

 

I do hope thoose  3.3,5v,+12v are wrong or you have PSU issues.

Oh shit...I didn't even notice them. Wtf :( goddamn it.

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I set the LLC to medium.

 

Oh shit...I didn't even notice them. Wtf :( goddamn it.

 

What PSU are you using? and what hardware. But reset back to defaults for now before the low voltage kills your system.

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I set the LLC to medium.

 

Oh shit...I didn't even notice them. Wtf :( goddamn it.

Do you have any of the power saving features enabled. They should all be disabled

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Do you have any of the power saving features enabled. They should all be disabled

 

Powersaving wont cause the voltage drops he is having. Look at the voltages.

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What PSU are you using? and what hardware. But reset back to defaults for now before the low voltage kills your system.

Corsair TX850V2. It might be dead in the water then...thanks for pointing it out.

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I do hope thoose  voltage readings are wrong or you have serious PSU issues.

i just noticed that i have the exact same board and my voltages look similar and i'm using a rm750 all my parts are brand new.

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i just noticed that i have the exact same board and my voltages look similar and i'm using a rm750 all my parts are brand new.

LOL you replied in the nick of time...I was about to go out and drop 100 bucks on a new PSU. So do you think it's the mobo problem?

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LOL you replied in the nick of time...I was about to go out and drop 100 bucks on a new PSU. So do you think it's the mobo problem?

should check your bios

 

I do hope thoose  voltage readings are wrong or you have serious PSU issues.

 

I just checked my bios, it shows 3.3v 5v and 12v. I'm inclined to think HWmonitor doesn't give the right readings for this mobo

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should check your bios

 

 

I just checked my bios, it shows 3.3v 5v and 12v. I'm inclined to think HWmonitor doesn't give the right readings for this mobo

Huh you're right, I did check my bios and it's reporting correct voltages. It saddens me that HWmonitor isn't though. Know any other monitoring programs that will?

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Huh you're right, I did check my bios and it's reporting correct voltages. It saddens me that HWmonitor isn't though. Know any other monitoring programs that will?

i just tried HWinfo64 and its reporting the right voltages aswell. I guess its HWmonitor unless someone else could point out something else. I don't seem to have any problems with my system,

Also i think you need to disable some of the power saving features, i think its the turbo messing with your overclock? My multiplier jumped from 7-20 aswell but not after i disabled the power savings and turbo

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i just tried HWinfo64 and its reporting the right voltages aswell. I guess its HWmonitor unless someone else could point out something else. I don't seem to have any problems with my system,

Also i think you need to disable some of the power saving features, i think its the turbo messing with your overclock? My multiplier jumped from 7-20 aswell but not after i disabled the power savings and turbo

Yeah I disabled all the power saving features. That's why I was stumped cause I can't find any reason why it should lower the multiplier. I even put my computer against the 0 degrees C wind that was coming through my window at night and ran prime95. The multiplier still dropped in one test (like I said, it's only a rare case, normally speaking it's fine), so I can't even attribute it to the VRM overheating...

 

I'll take a look at HWinfo64. Thanks :D

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Yeah I disabled all the power saving features. That's why I was stumped cause I can't find any reason why it should lower the multiplier. I even put my computer against the 0 degrees C wind that was coming through my window at night and ran prime95. The multiplier still dropped in one test (like I said, it's only a rare case, normally speaking it's fine), so I can't even attribute it to the VRM overheating...

 

I'll take a look at HWinfo64. Thanks :D

what about turbo? Also does prime95 give you errors when the multiplier drops?

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what about turbo? Also does prime95 give you errors when the multiplier drops?

Disabled that too. Also nope, but I have a least some clue what's happening. So CPU-Z isn't showing a multiplier drop because only some of the cores have their multiplier dropped. I guess it'll only show once every core drops

 

Edit: Turns out I was only reading core 0 in CPU-Z. CPU-Z does report 1.4ghz on core 2 as well.

 

157ba0f36e6936dddc7b5927c5a0776c.png

 

Does it drop because of insufficient voltage? I checked the LTT CPU database and some guy had it running at 1.4V which is weird cause I can run without errors on prime95 at 1.36

 

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Does HWinfo64 give you correct cpu vcore readings? mine doesn't

HWmonitor has correct vcore readings with cpuz.

My multiplier drops to 14.5 but for split seconds at a time only. But if prime95 doesn't give you errors your oc should be stable?

 

maybe someone more experienced can help on your issue.

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My FX 8320 is happy to run @ 4.4Ghz on 1.38v for hours on end, I'd bump up the voltage just slightly for more overall system stability.
You'd usually want to add slightly more voltage than what is stable in Prime95 to give your hardware some leeway in terms of long-term stability.

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My FX 8320 is happy to run @ 4.4Ghz on 1.38v for hours on end, I'd bump up the voltage just slightly for more overall system stability.

You'd usually want to add slightly more voltage than what is stable in Prime95 to give your hardware some leeway in terms of long-term stability.

Yup I bumped up the voltage to 1.4 under load and it's still having the same problems. I'm thinking it could be my PSU after all. It's been a bit wonky atm and I'm thinking maybe it's not delivering enough current to the 8320. 

 

Thinking of getting this: http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_443&item_id=057134 to power the 8320 @OC speeds and a GTX660TI DCUII from asus. It's enough power right?

Does HWinfo64 give you correct cpu vcore readings? mine doesn't

HWmonitor has correct vcore readings with cpuz.

My multiplier drops to 14.5 but for split seconds at a time only. But if prime95 doesn't give you errors your oc should be stable?

 

maybe someone more experienced can help on your issue.

Yeah HWinfo64 gives the correct vcore readings

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Yup I bumped up the voltage to 1.4 under load and it's still having the same problems. I'm thinking it could be my PSU after all. It's been a bit wonky atm and I'm thinking maybe it's not delivering enough current to the 8320. 

 

Thinking of getting this: http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_443&item_id=057134 to power the 8320 @OC speeds and a GTX660TI DCUII from asus. It's enough power right?

Yeah HWinfo64 gives the correct vcore readings

your tx 850 should technically have more than enough power for your system. it has a strong 12v rail too.

 

my system with 8320 and r9 280x uses at best 500 watts maybe under full load. rm750 fan doesnt spin most of the time means its under 40% load.

what do you mean by wonky?

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your tx 850 should technically have more than enough power for your system. it has a strong 12v rail too.

 

my system with 8320 and r9 280x uses at best 500 watts maybe under full load. rm750 fan doesnt spin most of the time means its under 40% load.

what do you mean by wonky?

Well stupid me decided to void the warranty and replace the loud fan on it. I did but now the fan doesn't spin. So reverted the mod but it still doesn't spin. Now I have some ghetto fix to my mistake where I install a case fan in it but power it from the mobo. Suffice it to say, I might have damaged some of the circuits in my PSU (I have no clue how it could be possible...I only removed the fan that's all I did).

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Yup I bumped up the voltage to 1.4 under load and it's still having the same problems. I'm thinking it could be my PSU after all. It's been a bit wonky atm and I'm thinking maybe it's not delivering enough current to the 8320. 

 

Thinking of getting this: http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_443&item_id=057134 to power the 8320 @OC speeds and a GTX660TI DCUII from asus. It's enough power right?

I genuinely doubt that it's your power supply, I've read on many occasions about folks with the same motherboard but with older revisions reporting throttling issues on their FX 8 core chips due to the motherboard VRMs overheating.

Try disabling HPC mode, see if that makes any difference. Also make sure that all voltages except for the CPU voltage are still set to their default values.

Sometimes when you leave the voltages set to auto & over-volt the CPU the CPU/NB voltage also increases automatically along with the NB voltage.

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Well stupid me decided to void the warranty and replace the loud fan on it. I did but now the fan doesn't spin. So reverted the mod but it still doesn't spin. Now I have some ghetto fix to my mistake where I install a case fan in it but power it from the mobo. Suffice it to say, I might have damaged some of the circuits in my PSU (I have no clue how it could be possible...I only removed the fan that's all I did).

in that case you may wish to change your psu to something like a rm650. the 500w seasonic one you gave might be pushing the limits. a 600ish range seasonic will be more comfortable also

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I genuinely doubt that it's your power supply, I've read on many occasions about folks with the same motherboard but with older revisions reporting throttling issues on their FX 8 core chips due to the motherboard VRMs overheating.

Try disabling HPC mode, see if that makes any difference. Also make sure that all voltages except for the CPU voltage are still set to their default values.

Sometimes when you leave the voltages set to auto & over-volt the CPU the CPU/NB voltage also increases automatically along with the NB voltage.

OP has the rev4 model which has the improved heatsink design for the vrm and his socket and vrm temps are still good.

 

I dont think its the vrm issue. could be his overclock settings.

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OP has the rev4 model which has the improved heatsink design for the vrm

For the longest time on this forum I actually would recommend the UD3 only if it was specifically the Rev 4.0 version because of the exact reason you posted above so I really do hope that's not the issue.

 

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