Jump to content

Is this component burnt? (photo attached) Trying to fix a lava lamp.

ContraHacker
Go to solution Solved by Latvian Video,
1 minute ago, ContraHacker said:

Given that it came from China where cost cutting is the name of the game, and my Dad said the same thing; I should have thought of that on my own. Anyway, would you recommend replacing this burnt component, or the entire PCB?

If everything else looks fine, not burnt and has the correct values when measured with a multimeter, I would just replace the component and see what happens, if it breaks, it isnt that bad, because you can get a pack of 50 for 4USD from ebay

Hi all.

 

A beginner here. I'm trying to fix this lava lamp and I noticed this three-legged component kinda molten-ish inside the on-off knob. There is a brown tint underneath the PCB too. I have two questions:

 

(1) Is this thing bad? aka. will replacing it do the job?

(2) Do I even need this PCB? Can I directly plug it into the mains AC?

 

This knob seems to only turn the lamp off or on. I don't see the lamp getting dimmer by turning the knob. Better to ask before committing arson on my own house.

 

The bulb is fine. Its an E14 R39 rated for 30W.

WhatsApp Image 2021-11-01 at 11.29.01 PM.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2021-11-01 at 11.29.00 PM (1).jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2021-11-01 at 11.29.00 PM (2).jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

if you didnt need the pcb, it wouldnt be there......

I could use some help with this!

please, pm me if you would like to contribute to my gpu bios database (includes overclocking bios, stock bios, and upgrades to gpus via modding)

Bios database

My beautiful, but not that powerful, main PC:

prior build:

Spoiler

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, HelpfulTechWizard said:

if you didnt need the pcb, it wouldnt be there......

Given that it came from China where cost cutting is the name of the game, and my Dad said the same thing; I should have thought of that on my own. Anyway, would you recommend replacing this burnt component, or the entire PCB?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, ContraHacker said:

WhatsApp Image 2021-11-01 at 11.29.00 PM (2).jpeg

The component is blown, from googling, I have found that it is a "MAC 97A6 m922" 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, ContraHacker said:

Given that it came from China where cost cutting is the name of the game, and my Dad said the same thing; I should have thought of that on my own. Anyway, would you recommend replacing this burnt component, or the entire PCB?

If everything else looks fine, not burnt and has the correct values when measured with a multimeter, I would just replace the component and see what happens, if it breaks, it isnt that bad, because you can get a pack of 50 for 4USD from ebay

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Latvian Video said:

If everything else looks fine, not burnt and has the correct values when measured with a multimeter, I would just replace the component and see what happens, if it breaks, it isnt that bad, because you can get a pack of 50 for 4USD from ebay

Seems reasonable. I'll get some 'MAC 97A6 M922's I guess and give it a shot. Thanks a lot!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, ContraHacker said:

Seems reasonable. I'll get some 'MAC 97A6 M922's I guess and give it a shot. Thanks a lot!

No problem, I suspect it might have blown because I think the heat is high under the lamp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

You have a potentiometer, which is probably used to adjust brightness or something like that. That 3 part pin is probably a transistor - by adjusting the potentiomenter, the transistor probably varies the amount of current going through it (ex the transistor adjusts current between 0.1A and 1A

 

You should get a multimeter, set it on resisance and put the probes across the terminals of the potentiometer. 

Look at the meter and slowly turn the potentiometer .. you should see the resistance go up and down as you turn the potentiometer.

You want to make sure there's no "dead zones" - basically areas in the rotation of the potentiometer where the potentiometer will fail and give no resistance (it can happen when the material on the circuit board inside the potentiometer gets corroded or breaks down and the contact moving above that material loses connection)

If the potentiometer is used as variable resistance to control how much current that transistor receives, then if transistor fails the transistor could open too much and overheat.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×